Nitrous

[LGAFF]

Never had an interest in running it, but thinking of doing it to my 90. Maybe a 50, 75 or 100 shot. That would put me from a stock 441rwhp to 490-540RWHP...

Lets discuss...systems, issues, etc

:cheers:

[Kevin]

NOS used to make a 125 dry kit for the zr-1.

[edram454]

just to say, if the kit says 75 hp or 125 hp, it will be horsepower at the wheels. it will be a real kick in the butt. dry kit is the safest just got to be sure you dont go too lean and hurt your head gaskets. the wet system is dangerous since you can have gas puddle in the intake causing a nitrous explosion. nitrous is risky but it is the best bang for the buck period. you can get a regular 400 rwhp car and put a 125 hp kit and have a animal on your hands. you will need a bottle warmer and also a electronic bottle opener.

ed ramos #3028

[LGAFF]

GM ran an LT-5 with nitrous, it ran 11.9 @ 123MPH

[edram454]

that should be no problem. nitrous is the big equalizer. i would not mind a 100 horse dry kit as a security booster. since so many cars are boosted now it is only fair to have a nitrous system for those quick bursts. if someone made a safe dry system and i had confidence a good tune could be had for it, I would be all in.

ed ramos #3028;)

[mike100]

that should be no problem. nitrous is the big equalizer. i would not mind a 100 horse dry kit as a security booster. since so many cars are boosted now it is only fair to have a nitrous system for those quick bursts. if someone made a safe dry system and i had confidence a good tune could be had for it, I would be all in.

ed ramos #3028;)

How do you add enrichment on a dry system? What I'm asking is how do you tell the ECM to add a crapload of pulse width to the injectors and to retard timing a couple of degrees? At least the wet systems work- you add hp by leaning them out until it gets touchy.

Lastly, nitrous injection hits hard down low unless you got a multistage setup. The injector flows whatever when you hit the switch and if the engine is spinning slowly at the time, it really fills the cylinders. At 6500 rpm, the system may only add about 50 hp, but at 2500, you'll swear the car has 454 inches.

[Billy Mild]

I think it would be awesome to throw a little shot on my car.

[edram454]

having 16 injectors i think we could only have the nitrous activated when the secondaries are firing. we can also fatten up the fuel curve so it would survive the dry shot. we can have the nitrous only come on after 3500 rpm and a wot. this is the time a good tuner is needed. i would not use more than 100 dry shot just to play it safe. its my experience with nitrous moderation is the key.

ed ramos #3028

[LGAFF]

Just bought a nitrous kit

Nitrous Oxide Injection System Kit-EFI Wet Zex 82026 w/ Accessories

[LGAFF]

I believe I need to get a window switch and also need to figure an easy way to retard timing.

[randy ransome]

Here's an old article about Nitrous on a ZR-1

1991 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 - Out Of Reach
Nobody Can Touch This 10-Second, Nitrous-Fed, ZR1 Monster

Kevin Shaw Apr 10, 2007 1 Comment(s) Share
Sorry to break the news to our Corvette Fever loyalists who didn't already know, but Corvettes weren't ever musclecars. Factory-built musclecars were a niche-market product aimed at the swelling baby-boomer, late-teen and early twenty-something demographic: a growing population of impulse buyers and consumers. frankly put, it was an advertiser and salesman's dream come true. Most commonly agreed upon by automotive journalists and historians, John Delorean's daydream turned reality-the GTO-paved the road for future musclecars: stripped-down, bare-bones sedans and coupes with minimal frills and lace, but with the most horsepower and punch each particular manufacturer dared to drop between the inner fenders. Most musclecars shared platforms and body panels with the more sedate family-geared people movers, distinguishing themselves from the masses with catchy badging and decals. By checking off a series of boxes on the order form, the Oldsmobile Cutlass suddenly became the menacing 4-4-2; the Buick Skylark transformed into the GS and the legendary GSX, a demure Plymouth Satellite erupted into a Hemi-powered Road Runner; the lowly Tempest roared to life as the GTO; and the austere Ford Galaxy would metamorphose into a R-Code 427.
Corvettes, on the other hand, weren't ever intended for teenagers or the artsy Greenwich Village crowd; the ad execs at General Motors slowly evolved the Corvette's image from America's answer to the European roadster to the standing example of U.S. sportscar machinery. the General retained the Corvette at the cusp of the performance edge with such equipment as independent rear suspension, four-wheel power disc brakes, fuel injection, the first American-produced vehicle with anti-lock brakes, and the first production vehicle with a dry-sump oiling system on the largest displacement factory small-block engine in history. Unlike its past musclecar brethren, the Corvette was expected to not only accelerate excellently, but to brake, corner, handle, and otherwise completely dominate its asphalt terrain with haughty superiority.
Benchmarks in performance litter the Corvette's long record; vehicles with cryptic names like Z06, L88, LT1, L89, and LS6 still ring loudly in the ears of enthusiasts, but one in particular rattles the halls of performance history still today-the ZR1.
We're not going to take the time to go over, yet again, the genesis of the legendary Mercury Marine-built, Lotus-designed, four-cam small-block. Rather, we're more interested in showing how Rod DeWild turned his already insane from-the-factory-floor ZR1 into one of the fastest, street and course-proven Vettes that Corvette Fever has ever dared to feature. Normally, power-adder-equipped, nitrous-fed, turbo-charged, super Vettes are the fodder of the more garage-thrasher friendly magazines.
Rod says getting to the point of ownership was the hardest part, "at that time, I never thought I would be able to own one. It seemed so far out of reach due to the high price tag [in 1990]. At the time, I was driving a $400 piece of junk Audi Fox." It took some time to warrant the monthly payment, but Rod gave in, drove to the dealership, asked to take this very same black ZR1 out for a spin, and quickly fell in love. He says, "The salesman didn't bother to go with me for the testdrive, so I took it to the interstate, turned the valet key on, and opened it up."
5
Corp_0703_01_z 1991_corvette_ZR1 Front 2/13
Corp_0703_02_z 1991_corvette_ZR1 Engine_bay 3/13
Stroked
The plenum may read 415 ci, but in reality, this four-cammed beast boasts 421 cubes. This engine has been stroked and bumped up to 12.5:1 compression, and pressed with direct injection nitrous via a Nitrous Express system. Filled with Crower camshafts, it also boasts ported and polished performance-angle-cut cylinder heads.
Corp_0703_03_z 1991_corvette_ZR1 Badge 4/13
Tricky
These emblems tend to bend the truth to the casual street racer.
Corp_0703_05_z 1991_corvette_ZR1 Shifter 5/13
Monster
Only the master craftsmen at LPE dared to make such a conversion on a similar ZR1, but that particular monstrosity wielded twin turbos and considerably more funding. Rod says he just likes to have fun with his 600-horse ZR1 street machine. We can't blame him one bit.
Corp_0703_04_z 1991_corvette_ZR1 Trunk 6/13
Magic
Rod's magic in a bottle is hidden here between the rear braces of the DRM cage. Computers help to distribute the special sauce over the power band, making the most out of the direct-injection system.
It wasn't long after Rod drove the Corvette home that he began digging inside the quad-cammer's internals. The Lotus-designed heads were ported and milled by fellow craftsman Greg Van Deventer. Once returned, Rod personally tackled the task of cutting a competition valve job on the heads. The factory valves were retained but with back-cut stems. The block was bored out and built to total 368 ci, but that manifestation didn't last long. A Jerry Crews billet stroker crank replaced the factory unit, while the block was fitted with custom liners, torque plate honed and clearanced to accommodate the wide stroke made by the crank and rods. strong Oliver billet steel 5.850-inch rods mate to Bill Miller Engineering forged and dry film-coated 12.5:1 pistons with Childs and Albert Tool steel rings. Rod needed to replace the factory cams with new Crower hydraulic .465-lift bumpsticks. The final cubic inch tally was an impressive 421 cubes topped with a 63mm throttle body, a ported plenum and injector housing (crafted by Greg Van Deventer), a forced air intake, and a LPE Samco intake hose. A direct port Nitrous Express feeds the cold stuff into the chambers, pushing the pony count up to 600-plus horsepower whenever Rod so desires. Since this is all-new technology, a progressive nitrous control module, a wide-band O2 sensor with a data log, and a Doug Rippie customized computer controller with a personalized tune for Rod's combination were needed.
Though, the experience of rowing one's gears is unmatched in the sense of interconnectivity between the driver and machine, Rod knew there was much to be said for an automatic's prowess on the dragstrip. A GM 4L80E automatic with a Compushift "stand alone" computer took the place of the factory MN6 manual six-speed crash box. Rod documented his '91 ZR1 as the second to ever have undergone such a conversion, citing Lingenfelter Performance as the first when they married one to a twin turbo'd ZR1 years earlier. Controlled by a TCI shift kit with a 3,000-stall with a three-disc lock up, the 9-inch Precision Industries torque converter can nearly snap your neck when launched at full load. The telltale sign of the conversion is present in a B&M Mega Shifter poking out of the center console. A custom C-beam housing had to be created for the conversion. Instead of the factory IRS, DeWild Performance installed a Dana 44 rear with steep 4.11 Viper GTS gears and billet spindles. DRM coilovers and shocks at each wheel lowered the black ZR1 into the ground, while Rod skips between 15x311/42 skinnies and 18x911/42 HRE's up front when he's not racing and 15x11-inch Weld Racing rims and 18x12 street meats out back. Since the tech guys at any NHRA-certified track are sticklers for the necessary safety equipment, Rod installed a DRM rollbar and rear bracing.
Corp_0703_06_z 1991_corvette_ZR1 Interior 7/13
Shift
The B&M Mega Shifter is the only giveaway that this ZR1 is touting a heavily rebuilt 4L80E automatic transmission. The rest of the cabin is covered in factory dressings.
Rod and his father, Norm, are the DeWilds behind DeWild Performance in Henderson, Colorado. Dedicated to building some of the best performance engines in the Rockies, Rod has tinkered on several trick rods and street machines, including a custom '40 Ford with a 448ci small-block Chevy with Nextel Cup cylinder heads and plenty of plumbed nitrous, and a fearsome '92 GMC Typhoon with a stroked 383 pushing a stout shot of squeeze.
Rod laughs off inquiries about his ZR1's current streetability, saying he uses it as a daily driver when he's not at the drags. With the old 415 stroker, the inky-black Vette ate up the Beech Bend Raceway quarter-mile in 10.6-seconds at 131 mph. Official times haven't been made since the implantation of the 421ci quad-cam stroker, but with all the goodies-with or without adjusting for the nose-bleed altitude-it will happily smash that time with cold, mechanical enmity.
One thing is for sure, Rod DeWild's '91 ZR1 eats musclecars with a knife and fork.
MORE PHOTOSVIEW FULL GALLERY
Corp 0703 Pl 1991 Corvette ZR1

[Hib Halverson]

Intro: nitrous oxide, is an "oxygen bearing compound". When nitrous oxide along with extra fuel are injected into the cylinders, once the compression stroke heats the air/nitrous/fuel mix to 575°F, the nitrous breaks down into nitrogen and oxygen. Since the proportion of oxygen in nitrous oxide is higher than that in air, you end up with a very lean air:fuel ratio. Add extra fuel and the engine makes more power.

First, heed the advice above and run a dry system and that means the extra fuel needs to come though the injectors. A wet system on an engine like the LT5 is just asking for trouble in the form of an intake manifold explosion.

Wet systems on port injected motors can really be fun if the nitrous and fuel aren't right and the engine spits back thought the intake. A long time ago, I built a Chevy Beretta with nitrous. Back then no one had a dry system for a 2.8L V6 so I put on a wet system that NOS made. Several times during really cold weather (good air) and when I tried to use nitrous below 3000 rpm, I hit the nitrous and BANG! the motor spit back big time, the MAF quit and the check engine light came on. One time the manifold backfire was so big, afterwards, I smelled smoke, pulled over and found the filter in engine's air box on fire. Needless to say, my wet system nitrous days with that Beretta didn't last very long.

Second, for a 100 or 125 shot to work well you're likely going to need bigger injectors and how much bigger is going to be determined by how much extra fuel flow you need.

Thirdly, the extra fuel.
I've actually never done nitrous on an LT5, but I've done it on other port fuel engines. Typically, you'd apply reduced nitrous pressure to the FPR and that bumps fuel pressure up. The increased pressure increases fuel flow by an amount needed by the nitrous oxide provided that the fuel supply system can produce the extra flow. Remember, for a given set of fuel pumps, when you up the pressure the pumps' maximum available flow goes down. If the required fuel flow exceeds the maximum available flow, the engine goes lean under nitrous oxide operation and then, bad stuff happens.

Fourth, the spark calibration.
This is a challenge too because with the nitrous working, even though it's an antidetonant, sometimes the dynamic cylinder pressure gained by burning the extra fuel and oxygen from the nitrous oxide, is more than enough to overcome the antiknock qualities of N2O and cause detonation. Rather than let EST solve the problem with KR, you're better doing some testing then retarding spark in the cal by an appropriate amount such that, with nitrous enabled, the engine is for the most part out of detonation. The main reason for this is, once the engine is in detonation, it takes more KR to stop it than if the spark was retarded enough such that the engine didn't detonate. Additionally, if you currently have an aggressive spark cal, it's possible that right at the nitrous hit, if the extra fuel doesn't get there in time, you may momentarily have so much detonation that there's not enough KR to stop it. But then, the only way to do all that is have a PROM switcher, so...most people let KR keep them out of trouble.

In short, the challenges are 1) making sure you can get the needed fuel flow with the pressure increase, 2) tuning the nitrous pressure delivered to the FPR and 3) getting the spark cal right.

The last motor I did nitrous on was a 3.8L V6 in a Camaro. Wiithout the gas, the motor made about 300-hp SAE. When I hit the bottle it went to 385-hp SAE. An "85 shot" on a three-eight V6 with a stock lower end was plenty.

Lastly, nitrous works bitchin' if the system and the engine are configured and tuned right but if the system is not set-up right, nitrous is great at blowing up motors in short order. Like any "power-adder". The easy part of buying it and bolting it on. The hard part is tunning it so the engine makes power and is reliable doing it.

[Billy Mild]

Interesting. It would be a pain to swap between tunes. It would be nice if you could have the "Normal" tune be for no nitrous, then "Full" power mode that has retarded timing and upped fuel pressure for the Nitrous.

It's the only way I know that you could do multiple times without reflashing the ECU all the time.

[RussMcB]

Interesting. It would be a pain to swap between tunes. It would be nice if you could have the "Normal" tune be for no nitrous, then "Full" power mode that has retarded timing and upped fuel pressure for the Nitrous.

It's the only way I know that you could do multiple times without reflashing the ECU all the time.I think this is one of the features of the MS3-Pro ECU. They mentioned the option of using the Power Key to switch between programs.

[Hib Halverson]

Interesting. It would be a pain to swap between tunes. It would be nice if you could have the "Normal" tune be for no nitrous, then "Full" power mode that has retarded timing and upped fuel pressure for the Nitrous.

It's the only way I know that you could do multiple times without reflashing the ECU all the time.

??
The ECM in a ZR-1 cannot be "flashed" as the PROM is not a "flash-PROM or EEPROM. It's just a "standard" EPROM and for that you have to have special equipment to "burn" the chip.

You need a "PROM switcher". I don't even know if you can still get them, but they were common back in the late 80s and the 90s.

[-=Jeff=-]

http://www.moates.net/gx-switching-adapter-for-28pin-sockets-p-87.html?cPath=64

[A1990]

This is the one I have. It appears the EX switch pictured, which I have, is not the one currently available.

http://www.moates.net/g2x-tbitype-switching-adapter-p-86.html

The remote switch is here:http://www.moates.net/ex-remote-switch-wled-p-47.html

[edram454]

If someone can get a dry nitrous system worked out for the zr1 including the prom situation, I am sure many of us would go for it. Like a fool proof system not running on the ragged edge but maybe a 100 horse shot. It sure beats the alternative in expensive engine porting and stroking etc... just install the zr1 lt5 nitous system and pick up 100 horse. use when needed only, you dont have to be putting up with lopey cams and hot engines etc... flick the electric bottle opener, turn on the bottle heater, a slight purge and away you go!! All of a sudden your stocker 340 rear wheel horse z is not pumping 440 to the wheels!!

ed ramos #3028

[Fully Vetted]

Even better is if you've already done the port work. Go from 430 to 530 to the wheels.

BTW...I've never had overheating issues. Just sayin'...

[edram454]

I agree! I was just saying for those who have stock cars and those of us who have modified cars... the gains are fantastic!! I would be over 500 horse too, just imagine the look on the faces of those guys with these new supercharged cars when they see the power the lt5 350 cube engine can deliver. 100 horse is mild,, 150 is mild too... I said 100 to be super safe and never have any issues hitting the nitrous all night long! The motor is stout enough to take a harder shot of nitrous and still be o.k.

[Billy Mild]

How did the old NOS kit work? I assume they had some failsafes in place.

[Hog]

This $785 kit from ZEX is for the LT5 powered ZR-1 Vettes. Its a dry 75-1254 hp kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/zex-82018p/applications/make/chevrolet/engine-family/chevy-small-block-lt5-corvette

Heck N.O.S. even used to have a specific kit for the old Crossfire dual TBI engines. Dom S is mentioned as having a Crossfire Vette that ran a 13.3 in the 1/4 running Extrudehoned runners in an old 2006 post.

[Billy Mild]

This $785 kit from ZEX is for the LT5 powered ZR-1 Vettes. Its a dry 75-1254 hp kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/zex-82018p/applications/make/chevrolet/engine-family/chevy-small-block-lt5-corvette

Heck N.O.S. even used to have a specific kit for the old Crossfire dual TBI engines. Dom S is mentioned as having a Crossfire Vette that ran a 13.3 in the 1/4 running Extrudehoned runners in an old 2006 post.

Now this just got interesting.

[Fully Vetted]

I agree! I was just saying for those who have stock cars and those of us who have modified cars... the gains are fantastic!! I would be over 500 horse too, just imagine the look on the faces of those guys with these new supercharged cars when they see the power the lt5 350 cube engine can deliver. 100 horse is mild,, 150 is mild too... I said 100 to be super safe and never have any issues hitting the nitrous all night long! The motor is stout enough to take a harder shot of nitrous and still be o.k.

No doubt. Gas has always been the most economical way to add power. And lots of it. For those of us that are modded even a quick little 75 shot just to be extra safe would be a real blast.

[Karl]

This $785 kit from ZEX is for the LT5 powered ZR-1 Vettes. Its a dry 75-1254 hp kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/zex-82018p/applications/make/chevrolet/engine-family/chevy-small-block-lt5-corvette

Heck N.O.S. even used to have a specific kit for the old Crossfire dual TBI engines. Dom S is mentioned as having a Crossfire Vette that ran a 13.3 in the 1/4 running Extrudehoned runners in an old 2006 post.


Nice.

Been thinking about nitrous oxide and methanol injection.

http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/article_info.php?articles_id=56

The 75 - 125 hp with a small shot of methanol should work fine for a easy 11 second car.

[LGAFF]

Got a wet nitrous kit need:

*Window Switch
*Prom setup or way to retard timing

http://ampperformance.com/i-9570823-zex-82026-efi-wet-nitrous-system-kit.html

[LGAFF]

purchases an MSD window switch http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8969/overview/

just need to address timing

[Billy Mild]

Can't you create 2 tunes with using the power key function? I would make it normal power would be Full timing, then when you click the key over to full power it would retard the timing.

[tpepmeie]

Can't you create 2 tunes with using the power key function? I would make it normal power would be Full timing, then when you click the key over to full power it would retard the timing.

No, because I presume you'd want to still have access to full power operation when off the bottle.

What I'd recommend is wire the window switch into an open input on the ECM and apply a spark retard when active. Alternatively, you could have the PT Open spark tables active when the window switch is closed (versus when the secondary bit is set). This becomes a lot easier if you don't have secondary throttles.

Note: the later calibrations have exactly this feature, although the tables are zeroed. The EBTCM sends a binary signal to the ECM, which then retards timing by a specified table amount. That was the secondary form of traction control (spark retard), the first being mechanical throttle modulation.

[Billy Mild]

I meant have both settings be "full power" where they would always open the secondaries, but one of the two power settings had retarded timing.

[Hib Halverson]

No, because I presume you'd want to still have access to full power operation when off the bottle.

What I'd recommend is wire the window switch into an open input on the ECM and apply a spark retard when active. Alternatively, you could have the PT Open spark tables active when the window switch is closed (versus when the secondary bit is set). This becomes a lot easier if you don't have secondary throttles.

Note: the later calibrations have exactly this feature, although the tables are zeroed. The EBTCM sends a binary signal to the ECM, which then retards timing by a specified table amount. That was the secondary form of traction control (spark retard), the first being mechanical throttle modulation.

Ah...good old Todd...always thinkin'

For almost as long as I've owned a ZR-1 I've always wondered why the LT5 TCS never used spark retard. The system was designed to be three steps.

1) Spark retard
2) TPS reduction
3) rear brake intervention at lower speeds only.

As Todd says, all the LT5 cals had that table zeroed.

It'd be pretty easy to use the shifter gun switch or whatever else you use for nitrous enable to control a relay whch would in turn switch a 5V signal to the ECM in place of the signal from the EBTCM.

Then you could just put, say...a 5° retard value in the the TCS table in the cal.

Lastly, on nitrous oxide rigs for LT5, while NOS may no longer sell the LT5 stuff, the guys who originally designed that system are back in business under a different name, Nitrous Supply. It's owned by Corvette nut and the founder of the original Nitrous Oxide Systems, Mike Thermos. 714-373-1986 is the ph. there.

[Billy Mild]

Ah...good old Todd...always thinkin'

For almost as long as I've owned a ZR-1 I've always wondered why the LT5 TCS never used spark retard. The system was designed to be three steps.

1) Spark retard
2) TPS reduction
3) rear brake intervention at lower speeds only.

As Todd says, all the LT5 cals had that table zeroed.

It'd be pretty easy to use the shifter gun switch or whatever else you use for nitrous enable to control a relay whch would in turn switch a 5V signal to the ECM in place of the signal from the EBTCM.

Then you could just put, say...a 5° retard value in the the TCS table in the cal.

Lastly, on nitrous oxide rigs for LT5, while NOS may no longer sell the LT5 stuff, the guys who originally designed that system are back in business under a different name, Nitrous Supply. It's owned by Corvette nut and the founder of the original Nitrous Oxide Systems, Mike Thermos. 714-373-1986 is the ph. there.

What was special about NOS kit? Did it ja e a way to make it safer to run? Looks like the Zex kit already fits the bill.

[Hib Halverson]

What was special about NOS kit? Did it ja e a way to make it safer to run? Looks like the Zex kit already fits the bill.

Then buy the Zex kit.

[LGAFF]

nitrous bottle holder arrived as did window switch; also have 55, 65, 75 shot fuel/nitrous jets:cheers:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/nb2.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/lgaff/media/nb2.jpg.html)

[LGAFF]

Well I have all the parts

MSD Window Switch, Zex system with TPS switch, and a MDS DIS-4 Plus which will allow me to easily adjust timing in addition to providing few other protection features. Now I just need the time to install

I was able to get the DIS-4 cheap as it was a display model, the system uses part 8870 to sit between the coil housing and coils to control timing.

https://www.msdperformance.com/products/ignitions/distributorless/parts/62152

https://www.msdperformance.com/products/rpm_timing_controls/rpm_controls/parts/8969
https://www.msdperformance.com/products/ignitions/distributorless/parts/8870

[edram454]

cant wait to see you install it. Hopefully you take pics. You car should really run good.

ed ramos #3028

[Billy Mild]

Take lots of pictures PLEASE. This is for the better of the whole group.

[aafc]

Came across this Nitrous assisted system to keep your bottle at a consisted
pressure . Check out www.nano-nitrous.com . this info is from 2008.
no bottle heater needed pressure stays consisted.

John

[BigIke]

I was thinking the ZEX would be the best fit... Can't wait to see it completed!

[LGAFF]

just got done setting up the window switch and Nitrous Management system, all working properly.....need to put everything back together and clean up the wiring, get a tune and refill nitrous bottle.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/window.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/lgaff/media/window.jpg.html)

[-=Jeff=-]

The controller is mounted crooked


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[LGAFF]

level is between the hashes

[LGAFF]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/IMG_1219.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/lgaff/media/IMG_1219.jpg.html)

[Billy Mild]

Why are you changing your tune? Are you running a dry kit or wet kit?

How hard of an install was it?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[LGAFF]

Wet Kit, biggest issue is figuring where and how to mount things, not alot of room in there


Why are you changing your tune? Are you running a dry kit or wet kit?

How hard of an install was it?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[BigJohn]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/IMG_1219.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/lgaff/media/IMG_1219.jpg.html)



Cool is the car on level ground?

:p:cheers:

[-=Jeff=-]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/IMG_1219.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/lgaff/media/IMG_1219.jpg.html)
It was crooked in the first picture prior to mounting it in the car

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[RussMcB]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/IMG_1219.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/lgaff/media/IMG_1219.jpg.html)That's cool - A Lateral G Meter!

I'm not too crazy about the orange color, tho. :-)

[LGAFF]

LOL

[LGAFF]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/0298179e4f057119e573b77f43627f7c.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/c61776a41d1044d8982f92a8714580b3.jpg


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[5ABI VT]

Very cool ! ANy pics of the install underhood? I have been debating on going this route. If I keep my 93 stroker car I will go with n2o otherwise if I part that car out I will be building a big cube LT5. Maybe just add the n2o on top :)

[spork2367]

How do you add enrichment on a dry system? What I'm asking is how do you tell the ECM to add a crapload of pulse width to the injectors and to retard timing a couple of degrees?

With this...

http://i67.tinypic.com/2f09mc6.jpg

[LGAFF]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160908/250568f21c380fa6ad31500e04dfc921.jpg


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[LGAFF]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160908/f8106ddc76a6f323fd7caa5b16b63f92.jpg


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[LGAFF]

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Purge added


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[Billy Mild]

Do you need to run that standalone computer system or can you use the stock ECU?

[Hog]

Stock ECU works with any ECU, even the stock calibration would be fine with a wet 75hp shot. A window switch on the Port Throttles would be great, nitrous on ONLY when Port Throttles are in full swing.

[LGAFF]

running stock system going to pull timing through IAT mod or a chip.....will find a better method through a switch after some testing....have to see if I blow the car up first:)

[LGAFF]

It has window and WOT switch


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[Hib Halverson]

I'm waiting with baited breath to see how a wet system works on an LT5.

When are you going to go to the chassis dyno?

[efnfast]

It has window and WOT switch


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A window switch, as in momentary contact switch?
WOT switch, gives a shot every time you hit W.O.T.?

[LGAFF]

Set up for nitrous to turn on only when TPS reads WOT, starts spraying at 3500RPM shuts down at 6800 RPM; redline is 7200RPM. I also changed fuel pumps, filter, ohmd the injectors, and my O2 sensors are showing fueling is good in the base tune

[FU]

Wet system is very brave on the LT5.

I have boxes of new NGK spark plugs for nitrous (Cold) if you need them.

[LGAFF]

I was just on the line w/Zex tech......issue for nitrous backfire is typically when the car is too lean......if I have fuel puddling in the intake at 3500RPM I have a serious problem; my A/F ratio on the car currently averaging 12.5:1 ....richest is 11.8

[Hog]

We are talking about 9-1/2hp per hole, you have gone above and beyond so for as safety measures are concerned.
The cooling effect as the Nitrous Oxide phase changes from liquid to gas inside your air intake would on its own deliver measureable increases, before the benefit of extra Oxygen and gasoline are accounted for.

Does this LT5 have Port Throttles? (I'm guessing not, but cant remember for sure)

I can hardly wait for your successes.

[LGAFF]

Nope, they have been removed......

[LGAFF]

Ran the nitrous today; no explosions:) Car pulls, squats hard, pretty seamless with a 75 shot, can light the tires up from 2nd gear roll. Probably need to tune it on the dyno, will probably just jump to the 100 shot

I used a 180 ohm resistor to pull timing via the IAT

[LGAFF]

Something to keep in mind, while nitrous is cheap you spend about 60 per 10lb bottle, that will add up over time

[Billy Mild]

Sounds like a lot of fun.