Turbocharging the LT5 in 2015

[Bob Eyres]

What with all the turbo cars, stock and aftermarket, running around today, and the fact that it's been over a decade since John Lingenfelter developed those legendary turbo LT5's. It makes me wonder how expensive a modern version would be.
Later model turbos have to be more efficient, effective, and cheaper. The electronics are undoubtedly better, easier to tune, and cheaper. I know the plumbing is a serious challenge, but why are these things so expensive to build?
Would it be possible to come up with a kit for the stock block LT5 that would be in the same cost bracket as say a Haibeck 510 hp. engine?

It just bothers me that all the forced induction cars available now are so much quicker than our naturally aspirated antiques. Damn, my wife's grocery getter, (an eight year old, six cylinder, 335i), is nearly as quick as the old "King of the Hill". :coffee2:

[Billy Mild]

What with all the turbo cars, stock and aftermarket, running around today, and the fact that it's been over a decade since John Lingenfelter developed those legendary turbo LT5's. It makes me wonder how expensive a modern version would be.
Later model turbos have to be more efficient, effective, and cheaper. The electronics are undoubtedly better, easier to tune, and cheaper. I know the plumbing is a serious challenge, but why are these things so expensive to build?
Would it be possible to come up with a kit for the stock block LT5 that would be in the same cost bracket as say a Haibeck 510 hp. engine?

It just bothers me that all the forced induction cars available now are so much quicker than our naturally aspirated antiques. Damn, my wife's grocery getter, (an eight year old, six cylinder, 335i), is nearly as quick as the old "King of the Hill". :coffee2:

There is that rear turbo kit from Raptor. I have been researching a possible Supercharger kit. There is a guy/shop out of STL that said he could make a turbo kit for the LT5. I didn't pursue it as I don't have deep enougpockets today.

Nitrous or a Supercharger might be an easier install. I think the downfall for the LT5 stock engine is the open deck design.

[XfireZ51]

If you did your own top end porting and tuning, your antique would be very competitive for a fraction of the cost and hassle of turbos.

[Billy Mild]

If you did your own top end porting and tuning, your antique would be very competitive for a fraction of the cost and hassle of turbos.

Who doesn't love a nice turbo sound?

[5ABI VT]

Who doesn't love a nice turbo sound?

me?:)

but.. I wouldn't mind looking into a turbo kit. is there any info or threads on the raptor kit? I can only guess max psi isn't very high on a stock motor

[Kevin]

It's cool but it's not worth it. You can probably buy a c6 for th cost of the build

[5ABI VT]

It's cool but it's not worth it. You can probably buy a c6 for th cost of the build

now why would I want a c6 ? [-X :-D

[rbidwell]

The last time I talked to Corey at Henderson Engineering in New Braunfels, TX, he only had to finish hooking up the oiling system and getting the megasquirt ecm sorted on my Raptor system. Should only be a couple of more years before it is running. LOL. I had the built with around 9:1 compression. New clutch, pressure plate, after market radiator, and also Corey fabricated an intercooler. Goal is the have 10 pounds boost which give us about 625 rwhp and excellent drivability. Since I have had some life changes since starting this project, it may be for sale as soon as it is up and running.

[Billy Mild]

Did you do anything about the open deck? How much boost could the engine handle?

[rbidwell]

I don't believe there was anything done about the open deck. 10 lbs is what Corey figured was safe.

[rkreigh]

I'm a definite turbo junky and although the LT5 isn't the best candidate I'd love to TT the car. fabricating the manifolds and plumbing is a big cost. I think modifying the 93-95 manifolds would help there.

study the LPE, SGC, Callaway, and Mallet TT LT5 and you can see good examples of the "plumbing"

the megasquirt makes a very good starting point.

although I would splice it into the wiring so the factory ECM is there to improve integration with the car.

I'd also recommend E85 and some nice head studs with the AES liners as I believe it would improve HG sealing or stretch the liners and groove the heads as LPE did (expensive and difficult!!)

the LT5 heads are very efficient but flow limited so turbos make sense.

I've been running around in a TT C5 (TTix kit) and I can tell you the torq from a good tt is a thing of joy.

I don't agree that it has to be a 50k build either. but it's not easy or cheap when you add up the parts and if you have to pay someone to fab up the pipes you are into a huge cost.

do some searches and I've posted up quite a bit on the TT Z subject.

[rkreigh]

Robert you out there buddy? I'm seeing stocker 93-95 manifolds coming up cheap weld a stub and v band and a pair of hair dryers

the aes liners, a megasquirt with big injectors on the secondaries, new head studs and maybe a wazoo TT ZR-1

I can't afford Dehnert's old car, but I think I can afford to build one !!!

maybe an LS block with the new Merc Marine heads would even be a cheaper and better way to get old vette with a cool power plant

I've already got the LS short block head studs, and of course the turbos =D>

[cvette98pacecar]

Robert you out there buddy? I'm seeing stocker 93-95 manifolds coming up cheap weld a stub and v band and a pair of hair dryers

the aes liners, a megasquirt with big injectors on the secondaries, new head studs and maybe a wazoo TT ZR-1

I can't afford Dehnert's old car, but I think I can afford to build one !!!

maybe an LS block with the new Merc Marine heads would even be a cheaper and better way to get old vette with a cool power plant

I've already got the LS short block head studs, and of course the turbos =D>

Ron, I have done all of the homework. The plumbing is a lot easier than you would think. If this were me here is what I would do.
1) Install Coil over shocks to free up the space in the K-Member where the uni-coil current resides. I would then weld 2 Pieces of 3" schedule 200 stainless steel stubs penetrating both sides of the K-member.
2). Weld up the front of the oil pan just like Reeves did on the Aqua TT ZR-1
You know have a clear path from the Turbo to the Intercooler.
3). Relocate the Battery, I would do the same thing Locobob did with a custom enclosure right behind the D44.
4). Relocate the washer fluid can and pump to the left side of the engine compartment. Canton makes a nice stainless steel overflow for the right side, I am sure if you called them and told them you need the same can made with everything turned 180 degrees around they would accommodate
you. This now gives you your air intake space that will be less than 2' away from the turbos.
All that leaves you is the engine. IMO SGC did it the TT the right way the first time with Wayne Hall TT (first build). It was a High compression low boost car. The 368 upgrade with 10:1 compression running 6 pounds of boost. Second tune running 108 and 8 pounds of boost.
I think this combination will get you into the 9's. That is with a brass set of cojones. I can't even begin to imagine what it would be like like this thing go in second gear.

As for the tune, I do believe Mark stated he could program our ECM for anything less then 1 bar.

[rkreigh]

I agree that the "callaway style" plumbing is a great way to go Robert

I'd still go with a Megasquirt though as the programming on the stock memcal is what Aaron said was really tough. (over 40 hours of fiddling, you just paid for a megasquirt at that point).

and E85 is the hero for a high compression "stock block" build and you could crank up the boost and still hold it together.

I've got many of those mods, (battery relocation, coil overs) already done on the LSV. A modified and "v banded" 93-95 stock manifold I believe can be made to work as you pointed out and save quite a bit on the manifold fab costs and they are pretty high quality stainless steel

just like the LSX motors, HG sealing is an issue but I believe with head studs and some of the new HG tech, it would seal up just fine.

the LSV is still real healthy but another "stock ZR-1" would be a cheap place to start for this type of project.

thanks for the tips Robert, one day we need to do this!!!