Do you guys have anything to add to the ZR-1's buyer guide?

[MuRCieLaGo]

http://zr1netregistry.com/Marketplace/BuyersGuide.aspx

Hi,

I've been through this wonderful guide a couple of times now. I know it has not been updated for a while. I'm wondering if you have anything to add? What happens if the car has new injectors from 2013, but has only been driven 2,000 miles total since they have been changed.

It is also a bit hard to figure how powerful should be a ZR-1. I got a 360hp RX-7 but I'm pretty sure it has a different kind of power.

Thanks for your help!

[Z51JEFF]

I have no idea what on this buyer guide in question so I'll add one. Take a look at the floor pans under the car. I've seen plenty of cars over the years with caved in,broken pans.

[secondchance]

I have no idea what on this buyer guide in question so I'll add one. Take a look at the floor pans under the car. I've seen plenty of cars over the years with caved in,broken pans.

Great point. Surprising number of ignorant service people use the rear of the floor pan as jacking points. Happened to me at one of the Midas shop. Had the Midas pay for body work and painting the damage.

[Bmak77]

Check wiring harness under passenger side knee bolster if any wires are spliced or cut you need to investigate further. If seller will not allow the removal of the bolster you might want to walk away if not runaway as the odometer might have been tampered with.

[Paul Workman]

http://zr1netregistry.com/Marketplace/BuyersGuide.aspx

Hi,

I've been through this wonderful guide a couple of times now. I know it has not been updated for a while. I'm wondering if you have anything to add? What happens if the car has new injectors from 2013, but has only been driven 2,000 miles total since they have been changed.

It is also a bit hard to figure how powerful should be a ZR-1. I got a 360hp RX-7 but I'm pretty sure it has a different kind of power.

Thanks for your help!

Injectors: Good question. IF the injectors were changed with injectors made from 93 +, they should be alcohol tolerant. So, there shouldn't be a issue with injectors built after that, far as alcohol goes.

Far as the 2000 miles in 2-3 years wouldn't concern me, far as injectors go. But, as with any car of the age these have become, one would be wise to change all the various oils and flush the cooling system and replace the coolant with the older "green" silicone antifreeze. I'd want to be changing all the filters too; a "fresh start".

Far as power production goes, stock, factory ratings was 375 hp peak for the 90-92 cars, and 405 hp for 93-95 cars. Porting the intake and headers and free-flowing exhaust can bring that to over 500 hp w/o changing cams or the block or affecting reliability or drivability!

I can't speak to the performance comparison. So, perhaps the best thing is to drive a ZR-1 and see how it compares. (I'm guessing any V8 will have substantially flatter torque curves across the rpm band. You be the judge.

[MuRCieLaGo]

Funny you speak about the floor pan: the floor was teared on my old C4 '84 and was also caved in in one of the ZR1s I've looked...

Bmak77 yes thanks, I will check for cut wires!

Paul_Workman I'm not really concerned of the stock ZR1 numbers, I just wonder how I can see if it goes to its full potential (how can I see that the car is slower than it should be).

You spoke about changing the fluids, that's the first thing I will do when she'll be home of course. The problem is that I need to drive the car for 500 miles to bring it home! Should I, at least, have the oil changed before driving it back home?

Thanks for your fast responses!

[Paul Workman]

Funny you speak about the floor pan: the floor was teared on my old C4 '84 and was also caved in in one of the ZR1s I've looked...

Bmak77 yes thanks, I will check for cut wires!

Paul_Workman I'm not really concerned of the stock ZR1 numbers, I just wonder how I can see if it goes to its full potential (how can I see that the car is slower than it should be).

You spoke about changing the fluids, that's the first thing I will do when she'll be home of course. The problem is that I need to drive the car for 500 miles to bring it home! Should I, at least, have the oil changed before driving it back home?

Thanks for your fast responses!

In stock form, a 1/4 mile drag race (approx .4km) the car should hit around 112-113 mph near sea level (ending in 3rd gear) - would be a fair indicator it is running well. If it is modified, then one would hope to improve on that, of course. My best 1/4 speed was 122.x (at ≈ 450 feet AMSL and 60ºF after putting down 430+ hp SAE to the rear wheels on a Dynajet dyno - just for reference.)

Far as the oil goes, if it isn't BLACK or very dark, and you're only driving it 500 miles home, I'd think you could cruise it home before changing it - no problem. That said, changing the oil before you drive it would only be a better option.

[MuRCieLaGo]

Thanks a lot Paul!

You think I can ask the guy how a quick 1-2-3-4 feels like?

[Paul Workman]

Thanks a lot Paul!

You think I can ask the guy how a quick 1-2-3-4 feels like?

You'll have to be the judge, but they don't disappoint!

[alnukem]

I would think a compression test would be in order even if you have to take it to a garage. I also think that a vacuum test can reveal tons. If I would have done it once, it would have saved me thousands! Good luck!

[MuRCieLaGo]

Oh, I'm surprised by what you say there (compression test). I thought these engines were bullet proof!

How do I run a vacuum test?

[Paul Workman]

Oh, I'm surprised by what you say there (compression test). I thought these engines were bullet proof!

How do I run a vacuum test?

Like any other motor: over heat it, don't change the oil and air filter (worse run w/o one!) and they're like any others; bearings, scoring, i.e. damage can occur. Also, a compression check will provide clues as to loose cam bolts (shifting cam phasing some - rare, but easy to check compression just for ease of mind; normal stuff to check).

[Billy Mild]

Make sure to vacuum test it. Use a mity vac and pull vacuum on various hoses that connect to the intake manifold. These can always be fixed, but the plenum needs to be pulled to do so.