Likely Heater Core Failure

[HIZNHRZ]

I've owned my current 1991 ZR-1 for just short of 20 years. It currently has almost 18K miles and I've maintained it since it had ~2K. It had less than 7K miles for the first 15 years. The balance of mileage has been added in the last 5 to 6 years. As of today, I've got antifreeze smelling vapor condensing on the windshield and antifreeze in the passenger plastic foot wells. I'm thinking it's time for a heater core.

I would like to get some input from someone who has installed a heater core in their ZR-1. Specifically:

1) Did you remove the dash or were you able to get to everything by removing the glove box and lower passenger-side panel ? I think there are a couple of bolts that will be tough to get to without removing the dash. I'm planning on using an inspection camera in order to get a socket on them.

2) Is the OE heater core still available and if not, is there one aftermarket manufacturer known to be "high quality" and form, fit, and functionally interchangable ?

3) Any other words of wisdom or suggestions ?

The damage is done but the cooling fluid was changed every 3 to 4 years with the proper antifreeze and distilled water. In the winter the car was garaged in spaces heated enough to take the chill off and in the summer, air conditioned enough to dry the air and keep the temperature below 85 F. Any thoughts on why this heater core might have crapped out ?

[secondchance]

What makes you think it has failed? Is it leaking coolant into passenger side footwell?
I have never replaced late C4 heater core but when Paul Farrance had his replaced Dan (Y-me), I believe, removed the dash pad to do the work.

[Dynomite]

What makes you think it has failed? Is it leaking coolant into passenger side footwell?
I have never replaced late C4 heater core but when Paul Farrance had his replaced Dan (Y-me), I believe, removed the dash pad to do the work.

Everything I read says you have to go in from the Dash and it is NOT fun. Take plenty photos for us if you do it.

Removed Heater Core (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=109037[/URL)

[secondchance]

But then, may be not necessary to pull the dash pad.
http://www.c4vetteregistry.com/vrforums/c4-cooling-and-heating-systems/is-changing-the-heater-core-on-a-c4-really-that-bad/406397/

[HIZNHRZ]

But then, may be not necessary to pull the dash pad.

Thanks. I saw that thread and a few others. Looks like it can be done but either way it does not look like a fun job.

Fortunately I have those carpeted plastic "boots" that lined the footwells but yes, I had coolant in the passenger footwell. The defroster was also blowing vapor that smelled like coolant onto the windshied.

Anyone have any thoughts on aluminum vs copper heater core?

[HIZNHRZ]

Everything I read says you have to go in from the Dash and it is NOT fun. Take plenty photos for us if you do it.

I'll do my best ! Need to get it done. In the Washington area, this is the best time of the year to enjoy the car!

[GOLDCYLON]

Having been there and done that its easier with the dash off on the 90-93 MYs. Best suggestion I can offer is to remove the targa top and pull the passenger seat to allow you to lay on your back and get some room to do the job.

I wont kid you its a complete PITA and a labor intensive job. I have not done this on the 94-95 ZR-1 since I havent owned one yet but the passenger airbag just adds to the complexity however its a simple unplug and move out of the way process.

Take a lot of pictures for reference along the way. If you do pull the dash be mindful of the weak area along the window on the passenger side which is very thin and can be brittle. It is best to have another person hold the drivers side of the dash while you negoitate this side out of the car.

Use this as an oppourtunity to clean the vents or consider a dash leather wrap upgrade opportunity :). Repair the foamy felts that surround the AC vents. I used to joke about the heater core being GM part 000000000001A and then the GM guys designed the rest of the C4 around it. Some GM Engineer is still prob laughing his AZZ off. GC

[WVZR-1]

I don't know that I wouldn't consider a repair VS. the replacement of with the current product offerings. Not in your neighborhood but in years past (many) I used this shop in Landover for some unusual repairs. SMITTY'S WELDING AND RADIATOR if the management and employee staff is the same might be worth contacting OR perhaps there's shops in your area that might come with recommendations. SMITTY'S wasn't close but I sent all that I had to them and if they mentioned a fix/repair possible it was always done VS. the purchase.

A bypass of the heater core for the season? Maybe

New I'd maybe consider SPECTRA - a very long time ago this was a Canadian Corp that did engine oil pans and higher quality than most radiators etc. I used their products for many years. I'm quite sure the company has certainly evolved and possibly "consumed" with maybe the cost-cutting adventures. Who knows? They do seem to offer or at least I was able to get a cross-reference using some tools to what was/is their product. A 94494 would be their part # if they still offer it.

[GOLDCYLON]

I would not EVER consider a repair on the Heater Core. Other than bypass a OEM quality factory replacement is the only way forward IMHO.

Could it be done? Yes as WV states but I personally would never do it. :)

[QB93Z]

Hi Scott, I am busy with rehab'ing a rental property, but if you let me know when you are going to work on it, I will try to come down to your area and help. Nelson has experience pulling the dash pad and I am sure he would be glad to help as well.

I have a coolant system pressure tester that you can borrow if you want to try and verify a heater core leak.

Jim
443-244-1347

[GOLDCYLON]

:( If hes venting/misting at the windshield and leaking in the passenger footwell. I'm 100% certain its the Heater Core. Thats what mine did before it crapped the bed

[HIZNHRZ]

Thanks all. I'm thinking after a couple of hours of disassembly I'll be able to determine if removal of the existing Heater Core without removing the dash pad is feasible. I'm not sure I have anything to lose by giving it a try. At the same time, please let me know if you have first hand experience and don't think this is going to work!

GC, sounds like you've done this on a 1991 ZR-1. My car is a 1991 also. I'd be real interested in your thoughts on the likelihood of succeeding without removing the dash. I do understand there will be problems with a couple of mechanical connections that will be difficult to see without dash removel. For these connections, I'm planning to use a fiber optic inspection camera as a work around.

Jim, I understand you're busy. I might take you up on pressure testing the system if you think it makes sense. I'm just not sure what else would result in the symptoms I'm experiencing other than the heater core. The symptoms are:

- vapor and condensation on the windshield at and between AC/Heat setpoint temperatures of 60 and 90 degrees.
- vapor clearly smells like antifreeze.
- unmistakable antifreeze puddle in the plasitic passenger side footwell.

Thanks again for any thoughts or suggestions.

[HIZNHRZ]

:( If hes venting/misting at the windshield and leaking in the passenger footwell. I'm 100% certain its the Heater Core. Thats what mine did before it crapped the bed

GC, I'm no expert but I agree!

[GOLDCYLON]

GC, sounds like you've done this on a 1991 ZR-1. My car is a 1991 also. I'd be real interested in your thoughts on the likelihood of succeeding without removing the dash. I do understand there will be problems with a couple of mechanical connections that will be difficult to see without dash removel. For these connections, I'm planning to use a fiber optic inspection camera as a work around.

Since I didnt even consider it without pulling the dash I felt this was the best way to go. On Corvette forum on the 84-89 there is a well documented "Fast guy" method. That all changed for MY90 and up. My suggestion is that it will be easier in the long run. Otherwise the positioning is very ackward and the access the the bolts is just a plain bear even with the glove box out of the way. GC

[rkreigh]

spend a few dollars and give Gordon Killabrew a call. he literally "wrote the book" and was explaining that he had a few tricks that will really help.

it's very easy to bypass in the meantime so you can isolate the core and continue to enjoy the car.

the rad stench is a B though. don't pump any more of it into the car.

my first Z did this at about 80k miles JUST in time for me to sell it.

could've waited a few more weeks and I would have been happier it went to cali where you don't even need it!!

[Jitse]

From engine side its not possible to remove the heater-core.
I can send pictures from engine side with the module a.c. Evaporator and blower motor removed.

Did you checked already if it is maybe leakeage from the heater hoses, thru the bulkhead seal material..... If there is coolant leaking from those hoses it can enter that area where the heater assembly is.

Toke away the ac evap/blower module toke me three hours. I did this because of a leaking evaporator element.

[nelson007]

I removed both seats in order to have more room.it was a job to put the pad back on by yourself. I would also give you a hand.

Nelson


QUOTE=QB93Z;232467]Hi Scott, I am busy with rehab'ing a rental property, but if you let me know when you are going to work on it, I will try to come down to your area and help. Nelson has experience pulling the dash pad and I am sure he would be glad to help as well.

I have a coolant system pressure tester that you can borrow if you want to try and verify a heater core leak.

Jim
443-244-1347[/QUOTE]

[Shrek]

Here's a few photos from the 93 I changed.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/2manyvettes24/Orens%20Heater%20Core/012.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/2manyvettes24/Orens%20Heater%20Core/015.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/2manyvettes24/Orens%20Heater%20Core/021.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/2manyvettes24/Orens%20Heater%20Core/026.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/2manyvettes24/Orens%20Heater%20Core/025.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/2manyvettes24/Orens%20Heater%20Core/027.jpg

[Shrek]

Two more!

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/2manyvettes24/Orens%20Heater%20Core/022.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/2manyvettes24/Orens%20Heater%20Core/024.jpg

[Dynomite]

Great Photos......but SCARY :D

[GOLDCYLON]

Great Photos......but SCARY :D


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fuWH0dYago


How I felt after pulling the dash

[HIZNHRZ]

Use this as an oppourtunity to clean the vents or consider a dash leather wrap upgrade opportunity :). Repair the foamy felts that surround the AC vents. I used to joke about the heater core being GM part 000000000001A and then the GM guys designed the rest of the C4 around it. Some GM Engineer is still prob laughing his AZZ off. GC

The statement above in bold and italic's didn't mean much too me when I first read it. GC, now I understand exactly the point you were making!

[Dynomite]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fuWH0dYago


How I felt after pulling the dash

Daryll........

I just pulled a heater core on a 1990 ZR1 WITHOUT pulling the Dash :dancing

There is a little trick on removing one 7mm screws on top of the front vent connection (two 7mm screws). The first 7mm screw is easily removed using a 7mm combination ratchet wrench from underneath. The second top 7mm screw can be reached by taking a long (large) screw driver and pry out on the top duct and against the Heater Core housing top. That gives you just enough room to use a 7mm combination ratchet wrench followed by a needle nose to make the final turns on the 7mm top screw on that vent flange.

So there you have it....a new trick....one guy on Youtube said it was impossible but what does he know :D

Quickly......as I recall......all accomplished mostly with a 7mm 1/4 inch socket and various 1/4 inch extensions ;)

Outside
1. Drain Coolant.
2. Disconnect Battery (I use a simple quick disconnect).
3. Remove two 7mm screws in Coolant Reservoir in front of Passenger side.
4. Remove two Heater Hoses from Heater Core and set aside the Coolant Reservoir with bottom hose still connected to Coolant System.
I had to cut the Heater Hose between the Coolant Reservoir and Heater Core to remove it.
Will go to Auto Parts with the old hose having a "U" bend and look at hoses finding one with the same "U" bend but longer and cut to fit.

Inside
1. Remove Passenger Seat (4 nuts and two electrical).
2. Remove hush panel two 7mm screws (and maybe one on right side also).
3. Disconnect light connector on Hush Panel and set Hush Panel aside.
4. Remove three 7mm screws at bottom of Heater Core Housing accessing from under right side Hush Panel area.
5. Remove one 7mm screw on right side of Heater Core Housing (half way down) accessing from under right side Hush Panel area.
6. Remove several 7mm screws back side of glove box.
7. Remove phillips screw front latch glove box and remove glove box.
8. Remove one top 7mm screw on left side that can be seen on Heater Core Housing from glove box area.
9. Remove one 7mm screw top right side Heater Core Housing that cannot be seen directly but use a mirror.
10. Remove bottom 7mm screw from Heater Core Housing holding air duct flange (there is a bottom and top screw).
Use a 7mm combination ratchet wrench.
11. Pry open a great space between Heater Core Housing and top duct with large screw driver.
12. Remove top 7mm screw from Heater Core Housing holding air duct flange.
I actually used a needle nose pliers to rotate the screw and lift out after it was loose using a 7mm combination ratchet wrench.
13. Now........wiggle out the Heater Core Housing down and out.
14. Remove bottom Heater Core holder screw and open Heater Core Holder.
16. Remove Heater Core.

Notes:
A. There are a couple wire holders held by fittings inserted in holes in the Heater Core Housing which you just slip out of the fitting and poke out holder once Heater Core Housing is removed.
B. The hoses to the Top Vent (one goes to the right and forward and one goes to left and rearward) have to be removed from the vent plastic tube.
C. The left Top Vent tube has to be pulled forward a bit (you can get a hand in the gap) as you pull down on the Heater Core Housing.
D. Make sure electrical connectors to the right side are not getting caught on the Heater Core Housing as you pull down on the Housing.
E. The wires that are under the Heater Core Housing have to be disconnected (3 or 4 connectors) to allow the Housing to be removed.
F. There is a vent tube connected (slip fit) to the vent from which the two bolts were removed in step 10, 11 and 12.
G. The Air Duct Flange has a nipple on it which helps if that flange is pulled from the Heater Core Housing at initial removal.
H. There is a 1/2 inch long flange (inside flange) on the Heater Core Housing where it connects to the main air tube to the left. That means it helps to initially pull/push the Heater Core Housing to the right when removing.

Replacement of Heater Core Housing will involve a magnetic 7mm 1/4 inch socket to insert the various 7mm screws

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite13/1d1393f7-1208-4493-aafa-dd60e1a3f0ff.jpg

Actually pretty easy with the trick of step 11 to remove the 7mm screw in step 12.

See Item #1 and Item #2 Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-7.html#post1585219751)

[GOLDCYLON]

The statement above in bold and italic's didn't mean much too me when I first read it. GC, now I understand exactly the point you were making!


Yep. Why not create an access door on the firewall to service the core?

Well I know why. the same reason the General dumbed down the DIC on the C6 because it would give the owner too much information that the service department wasnt making enough money.

[GOLDCYLON]

Daryll........

I just pulled a heater core on a 1990 ZR1 WITHOUT pulling the Dash :dancing

There is a little trick on removing one 7mm screws on top of the front vent connection (two 7mm screws). The first 7mm screw is easily removed using a 7mm combination ratchet wrench from underneath. The second top 7mm screw can be reached by taking a long (large) screw driver and pry out on the top duct and against the Heater Core housing top. That gives you just enough room to use a 7mm combination ratchet wrench followed by a needle nose to make the final turns on the 7mm top screw on that vent flange.

So there you have it....a new trick....one guy on Youtube said it was impossible but what does he know :D

Quickly......as I recall......all accomplished mostly with a 7mm 1/4 inch socket and various 1/4 inch extensions ;)

Outside
1. Drain Coolant.
2. Disconnect Battery (I use a simple quick disconnect).
3. Remove two 7mm screws in Coolant Reservoir in front of Passenger side.
4. Remove two Heater Hoses from Heater Core and set aside the Coolant Reservoir with bottom hose still connected to Coolant System.
I had to cut the Heater Hose between the Coolant Reservoir and Heater Core to remove it.

Inside
1. Remove Passenger Seat (4 nuts and two electrical).
2. Remove hush panel two 7mm screws (and maybe one on right side also).
3. Disconnect light connector on Hush Panel and set Hush Panel aside.
4. Remove three 7mm screws at bottom of Heater Core Housing accessing from under right side Hush Panel area.
5. Remove one 7mm screw on right side of Heater Core Housing (half way down) accessing from under right side Hush Panel area.
6. Remove several 7mm screws back side of glove box.
7. Remove phillips screw front latch glove box and remove glove box.
8. Remove one top 7mm screw on left side that can be seen on Heater Core Housing from glove box area.
9. Remove one 7mm screw top right side Heater Core Housing that cannot be seen directly but use a mirror.
10. Remove bottom 7mm screw from Heater Core Housing holding air duct flange (there is a bottom and top screw).
Use a 7mm combination ratchet wrench.
11. Pry open a great space between Heater Core Housing and top duct with large screw driver.
12. Remove top 7mm screw from Heater Core Housing holding air duct flange.
I actually used a needle nose pliers to rotate the screw and lift out after it was loose using a 7mm combination ratchet wrench.
13. Now........wiggle out the Heater Core Housing down and out.
14. Remove bottom Heater Core holder screw and open Heater Core Holder.
16. Remove Heater Core.

Replacement of Heater Core Housing will involve a magnetic 7mm 1/4 inch socket to insert the various 7mm screws

Actually pretty easy with the trick of step 11 to remove the 7mm screw in step 12.


Well I have to say Cliff that the General did not plan on the Amercian Farmer approach to out engineering a solution. Maybe your new forum handle should be "Scotty" he can damn near fix anything. Most folks dont know that an old tractor can be fixed with a screwdriver a pair of pliers and bailing wire.

Pretty slick and well done. Still a hell of a lot of work. Please tell me you HAD to replace your heater core on one of your rides and this was not simply done for two reasons.

1. You were bored after making a prototye tool and mowing down a bunch of soybeans and said, Sleep who needs sleep?

2. You simply love a challenge.

:cheers:

[Dynomite]

Well I have to say Cliff that the General did not plan on the Amercian Farmer approach to out engineering a solution. Maybe your new forum handle should be "Scotty" he can damn near fix anything. Most folks dont know that an old tractor can be fixed with a screwdriver a pair of pliers and bailing wire.

Pretty slick and well done. Still a hell of a lot of work. Please tell me you HAD to replace your heater core on one of your rides and this was not simply done for two reasons.

1. You were bored after making a prototye tool and mowing down a bunch of soybeans and said, Sleep who needs sleep?

2. You simply love a challenge.

:cheers:

Yes...had antifreeze on passenger side carpet and foggy windows. But also item #1 and item #2 above. That darn tool erases Codes so easily by just holding button (turn key on) until associated Code flashes and then release for 3 seconds and then press button one more time....DONE.

Since I am under the passenger side Hush Panel with carpet removed I disconnected and reconnected the INFL REST yellow connector a few times to make sure there is a good connection to the right side Accelerometers on the frame rail (Just in case).

Oh....and I have been under the Passenger side Before on another ZR1 monkeying with the CDM.....I say monkeying because that is a son-of-a-gun also :D

There are a few notes added in the Post #23 above........:handshak:
I am replacing the leaking Heater Core with a New Copper/Brass Heater Core.

OK.....found out something very interesting.......which requires an experiment.

Replacing the Heater Core.

The Top of the Heater Outer Housing (the one that is removed) has the top dual conduits for two vents attached to the Heater Core Outer Housing by two rivets (defrost and vent into passenger side just below glove box). Those two Conduits (one forward to left and one rearward to right) actually stick out interfering with the removal and installation of the Heater Core Outer Housing. You can get the Outer Housing removed by wiggling and bending the plastic Heater Housing but it is difficult because of the two conduits on top attached to that housing by two rivets. the top Dual Conduits for the two vents were attached to Heater plastic hoses (defrost and vent into passenger side just below glove box) which the two plastic hoses could be disconnected allowing removal of the Heater Core Housing with this dual top conduit attached. Those two Heater Plastic Hoses would be almost impossible to re-install after the Heater Core Housing is positioned and wiggled back into position having to connect the two plastic hoses after the Heater Core Housing is in place.

But.......I solved the problem ;)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite13/82eca38b-f32b-416f-bb57-1856d8c2e9cc.jpg

This could be a major improvement to the Heater Core Housing Replacement issue which now is extremely difficult without pulling the dash.

The Details are described in Item #1 and Item #2 Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-7.html#post1585219751)

[Dynomite]

There exists (existed for me) a coolant hose going from top of coolant reservoir to top heater core. It is a "J" shape with one end larger than the other. Cannot find that hose anywhere but can piece one together from Auto Parts back room coolant hoses using a plastic nipple.

So.....anyone know where this coolant hose might be available?

I cut the hose with a single edge razor blade to remove it from the Heater Core.....thinking it was readily available ;)

[WVZR-1]

There exists (existed for me) a coolant hose going from top of coolant reservoir to top heater core. It is a "J" shape with one end larger than the other. Cannot find that hose anywhere but can piece one together from Auto Parts back room coolant hoses using a plastic nipple.

So.....anyone know where this coolant hose might be available?

I cut the hose with a single edge razor blade to remove it from the Heater Core.....thinking it was readily available ;)

10257254 GM NLA but Gates 19743 is likely still available. You might see if a local can change either to Dayco or Goodyear. Amazon should be good for the 19743. The Amazon image doesn't display the larger ID on the short leg so I'd maybe be skeptical and try local but it's a competitive change.

This might be a harder find but does display the larger diameter on the short leg, Continental Elite 64304. Amazon even shows a single of this available. Actually all Goodyear product could be possibly rebranded as Continental Elite including even the "Gatorback" belt product line.

:cheers:

[Dynomite]

10257254 GM NLA but Gates 19743 is likely still available. You might see if a local can change either to Dayco or Goodyear. Amazon should be good for the 19743. The Amazon image doesn't display the larger ID on the short leg so I'd maybe be skeptical and try local but it's a competitive change.

This might be a harder find but does display the larger diameter on the short leg, Continental Elite 64304. Amazon even shows a single of this available. Actually all Goodyear product could be possibly rebranded as Continental Elite including even the "Gatorback" belt product line.

:cheers:

Hi: There are several sources including WalMart for that Gates 19743 but none show larger end diameter on the "J".

The Continental ELite 64304 does show the larger diameter end and just have to make sure it is the right diameter.
Amazon has just one left in stock (as you suggest) and all others are out of stock....I think I will try Amazon as it "appears" correct but diameter is not listed.
I will let you know if it fits.......lots better than conglomeration (spliced with 90 deg nipple) I have on bench just in case with flared end.

I tried local GM Dealer and was told that part number no longer exists and he brought up the picture on his screen showing the part. They all were very impressed seeing the ZR-1 however :D

I was going to lay some rubber on their concrete parking lot so they can say it was a ZR-1 if anyone asked but thought better of that.....kind of like some posts I would like to leave on the Forum but some do not have my sense of humor :sign10:

Thank you.....you just know stuff no one else knows :handshak::handshak:

You are right up their with my local JD Parts guy who knows some parts numbers by memory.

[WVZR-1]

It would seem "odd" that the Gates product weren't correct because the part fits all '90+ C4 Corvettes BUT stranger things of course could happen. The Continental could be more easily found OR NAPA. It was quite early when I saw your post but I'd say a NAPA 11743 is correct. NAPA image doesn't seem to display the larger ID BUT in the NAPA spec for the product they mention the diameter IDs by dimension.

.72 for smaller ID and .92 for the larger ID on the short leg.

*** I did find a Gates "identifier" and the Gates is also spec'd at .72/.92 and I expect that Gates is actually the NAPA provider. That would explain the similarity of the images.

You "my friend" should have no trouble.

[Dynomite]

It would seem "odd" that the Gates product weren't correct because the part fits all '90+ C4 Corvettes BUT stranger things of course could happen. The Continental could be more easily found OR NAPA. It was quite early when I saw your post but I'd say a NAPA 11743 is correct. NAPA image doesn't seem to display the larger ID BUT in the NAPA spec for the product they mention the diameter IDs by dimension.

.72 for smaller ID and .92 for the larger ID on the short leg.

Yep.....just found this...and exactly as you say....picture does not show it (hard to see if it does show it) but dimensions are exactly as you say :cheers:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=64&partnum=19743&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BGATES%2B19743&blanktemplate=true

GATES 19743 {#11743, SID9743} Molded Heater Hose; 23/32" x 29/32" x 13"
Category: Heater Hose / Pipe

https://www.rockauto.com/info/64/19743-1_TOP_A__ra_p.jpg

[WVZR-1]

Yep.....just found this...and exactly as you say....picture does not show it (hard to see if it does show it) but dimensions are exactly as you say :cheers:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=64&partnum=19743&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BGATES%2B19743&blanktemplate=true

GATES 19743 {#11743, SID9743} Molded Heater Hose; 23/32" x 29/32" x 13"
Category: Heater Hose / Pipe




I'm what I guess you could call a "RockAuto HATER" - I don't even use them for research. RA - NEVER!!

[Dynomite]

This might be a harder find but does display the larger diameter on the short leg, Continental Elite 64304. Amazon even shows a single of this available. Actually all Goodyear product could be possibly rebranded as Continental Elite including even the "Gatorback" belt product line.

:cheers:

The Heater Core Hose "J" Continental Elite 64304 displayed on Amazon fits perfectly and does have the larger end on the short end of the "J". perfect fit.

In the mean time I found that the Heater Core Top Clip can be easily removed and re-installed after the New Heater Core is in Place. Remove the CDM before Removing or Installing the New Heater Core and Top Clip. The Installation is a lot simpler with the CDM removed.

Without that Top Clip removed it might be almost impossible to re-install the Heater Core Tubes through the Fire Wall.

Heater Core Top Clip.
The Top Clip has a single 7mm head screw that can be removed once the Heater Core is removed. That screw and clip can be replaced once the New Heater Core is positioned reaching up under the hush panel with 1/4 inch socket wrench, 2 inch extension and 7mm socket. To replace the Heater Core without removing the Dash requires removal of the CDM.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite13/0e017627-5c8e-4f00-896c-d0144a9cfe27.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite13/94bacf51-4685-4fcf-81ea-ba7071886134.jpg

The Details are described in Item #2A Replacing the Heater Core and Heater Hose Connection (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-7.html#post1585219751)

[jrd1990zr1]

Well I have to say Cliff that the General did not plan on the Amercian Farmer approach to out engineering a solution. Maybe your new forum handle should be "Scotty" he can damn near fix anything. Most folks dont know that an old tractor can be fixed with a screwdriver a pair of pliers and bailing wire.

Pretty slick and well done. Still a hell of a lot of work. Please tell me you HAD to replace your heater core on one of your rides and this was not simply done for two reasons.

1. You were bored after making a prototye tool and mowing down a bunch of soybeans and said, Sleep who needs sleep?

2. You simply love a challenge.

:cheers:

Daryll, How far into this instruction do you have to go to get to the air mix door, motor and actuator. It appears my mix door is stuck and I can't get any heat out of the heater. Still too nice weather to pull the car apart.

Thanks, John

[GOLDCYLON]

Daryll, How far into this instruction do you have to go to get to the air mix door, motor and actuator. It appears my mix door is stuck and I can't get any heat out of the heater. Still too nice weather to pull the car apart.

Thanks, John



Actually Cliff did the instruction I pulled the top of the Dash. I believe you can see the top of the blend door by simply pulling the glove box and shining a flashlight on the top of the air box.