Header Install?

[NVMYRC51]

I was fortunate enough to get a set of Jeal Headers for my 1990. I am collecting all the minor parts I need to complete the install and I had some questions. 1. What cats are folks running? C7 takeoffs? 2. Stock header bolts or ARP lockers? 3. Any tips? I am will definitely check out Dynomites write up as well. Thanks.

Craig,

[efnfast]

No cats here.
I bought the Stage 8 bolts for my headers. The locking c-clips would not engage in the groove. Waste of money.

[Billy Mild]

I purchased a set of C6Z06 cats. I got this off the C6 Corvetteforum Parts for sale. It took a while to get them.

[edram454]

doug rippie long tube headers ceramic coated, no cats dumping to new corsa exhaust. very loud but no drone. locking header bolts.

ed ramos #3028

[Paul Workman]

My solution was standard bolts & lock washers with a bit of RED RTV silicon on the threads.

The heads are aluminum, after all, so exotic steel isn't called for. I figured I'd use the standard grade, hex-head bolts and see if they worked and replace them with locking bolts as needed.

Well, that was 5 years ago and they're still on there and I haven't had a leak yet.

[mgbrv8]

Good stuff here

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13458

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=115657&postcount=18

Dave

[Billy Mild]

How many have done the install on jackstands?

[mike100]

How many have done the install on jackstands?

probably most of us.

Once you get the oem manifolds out, it gets pretty easy. The biggest hassle going forward is the bracket for the dipstick and then the O2 sensor extension harness on the same side. The headers themselves almost fall onto the heads as the space is plenty large enough to just push them in place. I can take off a manifold in about 2 hours now (once the catback is out of the way). loosen the motor mount bolts as raising the engine makes finding some of the top row manifold bolts a little easier.

[RussMcB]

My solution was standard bolts ... <snip>I was tempted to do the same once I noticed the stock bolts seemed to be "special" (light weight, something exotic?), but I had already ordered the Stage 8 bolts (which are kinda nice with their internal wrenching - Allen wrench - feature).

What are the stock bolts made of? Titanium? They felt very light.

[Paul Workman]

probably most of us.

Once you get the oem manifolds out, it gets pretty easy. The biggest hassle going forward is the bracket for the dipstick and then the O2 sensor extension harness on the same side. The headers themselves almost fall onto the heads as the space is plenty large enough to just push them in place. I can take off a manifold in about 2 hours now (once the catback is out of the way). loosen the motor mount bolts as raising the engine makes finding some of the top row manifold bolts a little easier.

I agree 100% w/ Mike!

I built my own dipstick "Z" brackets, and I'll make one for anyone that needs one; anything to support the Brotherhood! PM me, and I'll get you in the "Q" for a bracket.

Far as the O2 extension, I simply spliced a section into the stock harness, wrapped the harness in braided heat tubing, and routed it behind the heat shields protecting the fuel lines.

AND, to facilitate connecting the wideband O2 sensors for dyno tuning, I relocated the O2s so that they extend (more or less) horizontally toward the frame rails. (No worries about being "wiped off" by some kind of road debris. If getting 3' of air and coming down on the frame didn't tear them off, I wouldn't worry too much about them being vulnerable...unless I take the Vette rock-climbing...not likely.)

Anywayz... Let me know if you want me to whip up a dipstick tube bracket.

Paul.

[RussMcB]

I bought an O2 extension from Stainless Works last week for $29 and they got it to me pretty quickly.

Paul's dipstick bracket is great.

I'm just finishing up my header install, working under jack stands. Before the project I bought the biggest, sturdiest jack stands I could find, and I think their extra height helped.

Agree with the comments above. Also, I dimpled my OBX headers to get more clearance near the steering shaft.

[Billy Mild]

Sounds like I may need to get some taller jackstands. What brand did you buy?

[RussMcB]

Sounds like I may need to get some taller jackstands. What brand did you buy?Summit Racing SUM-918006 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-918006)

[Paul Workman]

Sounds like I may need to get some taller jackstands. What brand did you buy?

Jackstands? JACKSTANDS!??? Well, if you were Marc Haibeck, you wouldn't need no steenking jack stands!:)

But, I used a pair from Harbor Freight; one big based pair which I usually use on the front end, and a pair of slightly smaller (shorter) ones for the rear. Together they will lift the car a good 20" ±; enough to slide on some cardboard to get to whatever.

Your option, but I also use a pair of floor jacks and simultaneously lift front and rear from first one side, and then alternate, back and forth about 3-4" at a time per side.

Then, I place both hydraulic floor jacks under the frame in the area I'll be working...as a redundant safety measure to augment the jack stands.

Not much you can't do off a set of sturdy jack stands. But, someday I hope to have the space for some kind of lift, or at least a "Quick-lift"... cuz to be honest, me hates workin' off dem jacks... I've been doing it since I was 17. But, a new issue looms now-a-dayz. It's called "old bonez!"

[Billy Mild]

Doing my shifter install on my jackstands was just brutal. Mine only go up to a lift height of about 16.5". I will be getting larger ones for this swap.

If I need a lift I can do it at DIY Auto Repair in town who rents out lifts and bays by the hour. I used it when I did the steering rack job my old 944 turbo.

[mike100]

I lost 27 lbs which made it a lot easier to squeeze under the car, not to mention getting up and down a lot. (mechanic mod)

Another thing that will minimize fatigue is to remove the front tires and wrap the brake rotor up in a bag or put a large towel over it. you can stand in there and get close to the work. You're gonna have to take the wheel well plastic liners out anyhow, but wrapping the brakes to keep your pants clean is my trick for saving your back working on C4's. Also keep some dense foam pads and packing material you might find at work etc for knee pads.

[RussMcB]

Mike, good suggestions.

To get a little more room to work, I also removed four chassis braces: two bars going from the frame rails to the hood latches, and two under the car where the motor mount nuts are. I don't know if that was necessary, but they were easy to remove.

I was a little intimidated by the thought of lifting the motor, but that turned out to be very easy, too. Just two easily removed nuts, then a floor jack under the engine. That helped access to a few tight spots during the R&R.

I also took Dynomite's suggestion and rerouted the left harness under the LF upper wishbone while I was in that area.

[Paul Workman]

I lost 27 lbs which made it a lot easier to squeeze under the car, not to mention getting up and down a lot. (mechanic mod)

Another thing that will minimize fatigue is to remove the front tires and wrap the brake rotor up in a bag or put a large towel over it. you can stand in there and get close to the work. You're gonna have to take the wheel well plastic liners out anyhow, but wrapping the brakes to keep your pants clean is my trick for saving your back working on C4's. Also keep some dense foam pads and packing material you might find at work etc for knee pads.

Ah! Good tip(s)!! :cheers: