VATS issues, hmmm....

[rkreigh]

It's almost like vette jealousy. I took the 68 convertible (for sale) to carlisle this year and the LPE LSV has had very intermittent VATS issues ever since. (it's my faithful steed going to carlilsle for many years)

about every blue moon, I put the key in and the security light stays on and the car won't start. only seems to happen after the car has been driven once and won't restart.

It's happened about 3 times in the last 2 weeks and car has to sit for 10 min or so before retrying.

the only time this happened to me before was with another 95 ZR-1 and "so I thought" pulling the ECM fuse would clear it (that little trick doesn't work I guess)

time to dig up the factory manual but I have a few questions

1. sounds like the key might be going bad and the resistor isn't making contact. I do have a spare key and that one has worked for me in the past but only after having the car sit for a few minutes (like 20 or so). my "primary key" ALWAYS works when the car is first started cold.

2. it only seems to happen after the car has been driven - doesn't seem to matter if it's a short or long trip.

3. security light is ALWAYS on with the key in so I'm pretty sure it's VATS when I hit the no start condition.

4. only other weird thing is BOTH power door locks are inoperative (all the time). I checked the fuse but maybe a relay or something else is causing the vats to have a fit.

5. if I wait for 10 min or so the car seems to recognize the key fine, security light goes out, and she starts up with a roar.

6. it's only preventing ME from stealing the car and not really helping me get home, so far I haven't been stranded, but I see it coming.

7. I do hear the tell tale honk from the key fob when leaving the car, but obviously the power locks aren't working so that might cause it to go crazy.

8. did I mention I hate this goofy key fob and how the C4 locks and unlocks and honks (I know, different settings).


any tips are appreciated! I thought about a wacky VATS bypass but probably should fix it as GM intended. these kind of gizmos are more annoying than anything to me !!! the 95 is my daily right now (don't ask) so any advice is appreciated! :cry:

[QB93Z]

Whenever the Theft Deterrent System (TDS) prevents a start, the "security" light on the left side of the instrument panel will be on steady. If the TDS is satisfied that the door was opened with a proper unlock event (key in door or PKE fob read OK) the "security" light will be flashing.

If VATS blocks a start up, you can "reset" VATS without the 15 minute wait, by exiting the car, close the car door, put the key in the door and lock, then unlock the door. Then try to start the car again. In most cases I have seen, the car will start as long as the problem is not in the starter itself or the starter motor circuit.

Good luck.

Jim

[rkreigh]

great tip. I think the LSV is happy again as I'm now locking and unlocking the door with the key

I know the key fob is being recognized as the interior lights come one, but the doors can't unlock as there seems to be a relay or something wrong as power door locks are inop.

if I could save 2 lbs I'd toss this stuff as I always end up disabling the auto lock/unlock with the fob and locking it manually when I'm hanging out as I walk by the car and don't want it locking and unlocking all the time.

car seemed to sense that and broke the locks for me!

thanks Jim. good seeing you guys at carlilse I feel another wazzoo coming on as the nice fall weather and trees change it will be top off croozin time until old man winter shows up.

but then again, only the snow stops me and we don't get that much in VA:o

[rkreigh]

the mystery vats issue cropped up again over the weekend.

tried the door trick and no joy.

another 15 min wait and it decided to fire up.

I've switched to my backup key.

durn thing works 100 times fine in a row and then decides to quit (only when I need to get somewhere!)

at least the first time it quit at home:mad:

[WVZR-1]

the mystery vats issue cropped up again over the weekend.

tried the door trick and no joy.

another 15 min wait and it decided to fire up.

I've switched to my backup key.

durn thing works 100 times fine in a row and then decides to quit (only when I need to get somewhere!)

at least the first time it quit at home:mad:

I would think that maybe the "diagnostics" are complete. If there's no failures with the "back-up" key it might be reasonable to assume maybe the key is the issue and creating the intermittent issue OR you've just been fortunate and the harness to the cylinder is failing. Do you use the TILT function frequently?

You might consider constructing a resistor for the by-pass and carry it in the car. It's not a fun job on the side of the road but it might be better than the other options.

[Scrrem]

I would think that maybe the "diagnostics" are complete. If there's no failures with the "back-up" key it might be reasonable to assume maybe the key is the issue and creating the intermittent issue OR you've just been fortunate and the harness to the cylinder is failing. Do you use the TILT function frequently?

You might consider constructing a resistor for the by-pass and carry it in the car. It's not a fun job on the side of the road but it might be better than the other options.

Dave, are the resistors in the key subject to any wear that could increase the tolerance by simply inserting the key into the lock? I guess they can they just go bad?
Rich

[WVZR-1]

Dave, are the resistors in the key subject to any wear that could increase the tolerance by simply inserting the key into the lock? I guess they can they just go bad?
Rich

I believe it's safe to just say "wear/tear" of key OR the contacts in the cylinder. Given the age of these cars I'd think it likely wise to carry a "plug-in" for by-pass.

Ron's experience is maybe considered "typical" for a failing harness to the cylinder, particularly if a person uses the tilt function regularly BUT he mentions the back-up key has been a fix so "maybe" just the key.

If you carry the keys at all times on a key ring I'd say your more susceptible to a key failure.

[mike100]

If you have ever taken down the column to the turn signal assembly, you will see how flimsy the VATS contacts are. I would consider replacing them since the amount of tear down to get to the lock cylinder isn't too daunting (Beyond that to the tilt housing is a nightmare).

Of course you could forever bypass it with the resistor in-harness.

[rkreigh]

If you have ever taken down the column to the turn signal assembly, you will see how flimsy the VATS contacts are. I would consider replacing them since the amount of tear down to get to the lock cylinder isn't too daunting (Beyond that to the tilt housing is a nightmare).

Of course you could forever bypass it with the resistor in-harness.


I'm going to see if it acts up with the backup key I'm leaning towards a bypass as this is a PITA if it keeps acting up.

I never use the tilt wheel, so maybe the lock cyl it getting intermittent. keys both look good and it's been frustrating as it only fails when i need to GO thanks for the tips

[WVZR-1]

I'm going to see if it acts up with the backup key I'm leaning towards a bypass as this is a PITA if it keeps acting up.

I never use the tilt wheel, so maybe the lock cyl it getting intermittent. keys both look good and it's been frustrating as it only fails when i need to GO thanks for the tips

If you're out and about I'd just shop a 1/4 watt 2% resistor of the correct value and you'll have that aspect of it done. The resistors are a tougher find local these days as Radio Shack is gone. Resistors will likely be a 4 or 5 pack but less than $2. I drove 45 miles for the last VATS I did for a friend who had his car in the shop and they were "scratching their heads" after attempting a starter amongst other things.

I had to actually do a series of 3 values to get to the 11800 I needed because of the stock at the shop. When I mentioned to the shop how to do the 3 in a series they "scratched their heads again" but I left them with that and a 4 ft. length of 3/32 heat shrink and drove off. The car was a '95 Park Avenue and the VATS wires are in a maybe 48 pin block vs. the simple 2 wire direct in our cars.

They had the car for a week plus but 90 minutes (or so) after I left there was a message on my phone that the car was running.

They wanted to do the ignition cylinder, keys etc. for maybe $400+ with no guarantee. I believe they may have quoted him $600 once in a conversation.
The owner is a recent acquaintance I consider "friend" and at the gym one day I asked "WHERES' YOUR CAR"? I then explained what I thought the problem.

[Mr Blue]

If you can't find them locally, let me know what resistance you need. I may have it. I bought an assortment from Radio Shack when mine went bad. I will search the toolbox for the rest. If I have it I'll mail it to you.

David

[rkreigh]

thanks!

the spare key hasn't let me down yet even though it doesn't look as good as the primary.

I remember getting a replacement key a long time ago as I only had one set of keys so maybe I started using the new one.

[Rd.adam@hotmail.com]

If you have access to what's called a VATS INTERAGATOR", you can get your key checked to see which resistor it requires. There is only 15 combinations ever made. Then you can order up a pre made resistor bypass wire that simply plugs into the matching 2 wire plug in located at bottom of steering column.
Ecklers sells these pre made wires for $30 each. Your local GM dealer should have the VATS INTERAGATOR box to check your key resistor number. Once your system is bypassed, hopefully your issues are solved.
You can also google up DREADED NO START CONDITION ZR-1
There is a list of possible related problems to check for, example faulty clutch safety switch. Starter problems, car battery not at full charge, etc