electric cut out questions

[Gunny]

What are the recommended locations for installing the switch?
What's the best way to run the wire from the cut out actuators to the switch?

[WARP TEN]

What are the recommended locations for installing the switch?
What's the best way to run the wire from the cut out actuators to the switch?

Hi George--
When Marc first did mine (cutouts in the middle, no spare) he installed the toggle switch that came with the cutouts from QTP left of the console under the knee bolster. I could not reach it and it was stiff anyway. So I searched out a rocker switch and hid it under the carpet on the passenger side of the console within easy reach. As you know I also copied Tony Davila and had Marc move the cutouts to right in front of the mufflers and restore the spare carrier.

Marc did the original switch wiring in through the driver side compartment behind the seat then along the driver side sill and up under the knee bolster. I did not change the wiring route when I installed the rocker switch as there was enough extra to tie in. I thought you might be able to run it down the console and through the panel at the seat back but Marc said this is more difficult for some reason; I don't know why.

Here is a copy of the email I sent to Marc when I did the switch switch (ha ha) with pictures. Hope that helps. --Bob
------------------
Hi Marc--While I know the cutout switch you installed works for others, it just did not work for me. I could not reach it when I was driving and I could only push it up (open), not down, even when I was stopped. Not enough room to grab it and pull down. So I went back to plan B and installed the rocker switch under the carpet on the right side of the transmission tunnel. I have attached some pictures below.
You might want to consider this as an alternative to the current switch and location if you are doing another cutout install. It is hidden but you can reach it and activate it while you are driving. The carpet is a bit stiff but I can still feel it and activate it easily. It is just slightly below the edge of the plastic console trim. There is plenty of room for the switch even with spade connectors. It really doesn't take much longer than drilling the hole and you can avoid the time to solder the connections. You also don't have to take off the driver's side trim panel and can probably route the wires up the center console and leave the excess wire in the ABS compartment (I left your routing in place).
Once the trim plates are off you can see where the best place is for it. Had to pull down the right side knee bolster panel and lose the three little staples holding the carpet to the top of the plastic trans tunnel side. It is a little more difficult to cut a rectangular opening but I did it by drawing a template for the hole (about 1-1/2” by about 13/16”) on an adhesive label. Drilled a bunch of small (1/16) holes to outline the hole, then some larger ones. After that I used a small metal cutting jigsaw blade mounted in a handle (which usually holds a larger hacksaw blade for hand cutting). Worked great. Finished with a flat file. I see why you soldered the connectors to get clearance but I reverted to spade connectors. Plenty of room for the long connector tail.
The switch is the same one I gave you, a Gama Electronics DPDT momentary with spade connectors. Spade connectors exactly match those of the QTP switch. Here is a link: http://www.gamainc.com/site/epage/130245_941.htm (http://www.gamainc.com/site/epage/130245_941.htm). About $10 retail.
Best, Bob

Switch install pix:

[WARP TEN]

Here is a picture of the cutouts themselves and the final finished cabin. I actually cover the switch location itself with about a 2"x2" square of adhesive clear plastic so my dirty fingers don't spoil the carpet. I use the same stuff on the console to the right of the accelerator pedal to minimize wear on the carpet. It's the stuff you buy at Home Depot in a 24" roll to cover carpet. --Bob

[Gunny]

Thanks for the reply, Bob ... I was hoping you would chime in. Your info is what I needed ... very helpful.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Shame on you George and Bob; you guys are gonna make it get some cutouts too! I can't believe I did not listen to Bob's while at BG this year!!! That really sucks when I had the chance.

[WARP TEN]

Shame on you George and Bob; you guys are gonna make it get some cutouts too! I can't believe I did not listen to Bob's while at BG this year!!! That really sucks when I had the chance.

Easy there, Craig. It just sounds like open straight pipes. Remember my system consists of SW headers, no cats, stock 95 exhaust system including the resonator and mufflers with the cutouts just in front of the mufflers. Probably has a lot of drone too but when I have them wide open (say for track use) I am not paying attention. Also has the stock resonator in place so one of the resonance points is still handled. Much of the time I run either closed or about one third open for a little extra rumble. And Craig, just remember that if you really want this set up without having to go though all the work to install it, you can still simply buy my car. :-D -- Bob

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Easy there, Craig. It just sounds like open straight pipes. Remember my system consists of SW headers, no cats, stock 95 exhaust system including the resonator and mufflers with the cutouts just in front of the mufflers. Probably has a lot of drone too but when I have them wide open (say for track use) I am not paying attention. Also has the stock resonator in place so one of the resonance points is still handled. Much of the time I run either closed or about one third open for a little extra rumble. And Craig, just remember that if you really want this set up without having to go though all the work to install it, you can still simply buy my car. :-D -- Bob

Hey Bob, I was only kidding about doing cutouts. I am curious and would have loved to hear yours as I can't imagine the sound. Ha, ha....forget about selling your awesome car and enjoy it; you built a masterpiece.:cheers:

[WARP TEN]

Hey Bob, I was only kidding about doing cutouts. I am curious and would have loved to hear yours as I can't imagine the sound. Ha, ha....forget about selling your awesome car and enjoy it; you built a masterpiece.:cheers:

It is a lot of fun and so far I have not suffered for not selling it yet. --Bob

[Locobob]

Here is my cut-out switch on the right side of the under dash panel, its a little crooked - need to fix that next time I'm in there but I find this location works pretty well.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0788.jpg

[Gunny]

Here is my cut-out switch on the right side of the under dash panel ....

Is this a QTP switch? reason I'm asking is the QTP toggle switch requires about 3" clearance behind the mounting point

[Locobob]

Is this a QTP switch? reason I'm asking is the QTP toggle switch requires about 3" clearance behind the mounting point

No its a momentary rocker switch meant for a power window application.

[C4Ray]

Bob's cut outs are the best I have ever seen on a C4.

[Paul Workman]

I too have considered that route. Also, I like "Mike100s" setup (featured in HOTB a few months back).


As I see it.. IF you have a relatively "quiet" muffler, albeit a little restrictive, then Bob's cutouts might make sense.


But, if you have the throaty and free-breathing Dynamax 17228s (like Al and Dominic and others are using), then installing the gate on one of the twin outlets is needed to quiet those puppies (and a good job they do!).


As for the wiring, IIRC on a 91+ the charcoal canister is in the rear fender area. On Bob G's (427 LT5) it was removed and the existing wire was used to control the gates (mounted on the twin outlets). And, I believe that Pete also has that setup and he could shed a spotlight on how it is wired (tho I believe his and Bob G's is fully automatic (no manual override), but that may have changed (might now have a manual override switch?)

Hope one of them chimes in.... Maybe some day I'll get to ride in Bob B's and Dominic's cars w/ and w/o the gates closed and make a decision.

[XfireZ51]

Paul,

Anyone coming to Marc's BBQ is welcome to take a ride with me to see how the
Dynamaxs sound w the Z06 tips.

[Gunny]

... Anyone coming to Marc's BBQ is welcome to take a ride with me to see how the Dynamaxs sound w the Z06 tips ...

I'm in :thumbsup:

[Paul Workman]

Paul,

Anyone coming to Marc's BBQ is welcome to take a ride with me to see how the
Dynamaxs sound w the Z06 tips.

Sounds good!

[-=Jeff=-]

I will not be there this year

[Gunny]

.... Maybe some day I'll get to ride in Bob B's and Dominic's cars w/ and w/o the gates closed and make a decision ...

I'm looking forward to hearing both cars (inside & out) and making the comparison. Since I plan to drive up in my '90, which I hope will be sporting a couple of QTP cut-outs on the "almost stock" LT4 exhaust, then we can listen to at least three, possibly more. Should be enlightening, educational, and informative ... that's retired teacher talk for FUN ... :D

[Gunny]

I will not be there this year

and I was planning on FINALLY getting some decent pics of your RPO C60 Z :(

[Gunny]

anyone else old enough to remember Richard Boone as Paladin in "Have Gun, Will Travel"?

I'm thinking of printing some business cards with "Have Camera, Will Travel"

Actually, I'm not old enough to remember that TV show ... I think my grandparents told me something about it a few years ago. :wink:
The truth is my parents didn't buy a TV until I was grown & moved out

[RICKYRJ1]

Anybody ever install/see the Doug's Headers electric cut outs? They use a disc that open and closes instead of a flap. lmk your thoughts. Thanks :USFlag: