Swapping shifters...

[Paul Workman]

Boy... After driving Ami's Z with the Hurst (short, crash-through) shifter a little bit, that is one mod I'd like to do on my 90.

Can I ask a noob kinda question? I assume the transmission has to come off to do the change...BUT DOES IT? I'd hate to drop the trans, only to find that I didn't need to.:o

[FU]

Send your stock shifter out to Bill B at ZF Doc. You and your ZF will be better off.

[5ABI VT]

Trans doesn't need to come out for shfter install

[-=Jeff=-]

Send your stock shifter out to Bill B at ZF Doc. You and your ZF will be better off.

Why what is wrong with the Hurst?

[Hib Halverson]

There is nothing wrong with the Hurst. In fact, I feel it's a better design than most of the aftermarket shifters out there.

I've head one in my '95 for about 15 years and it works great. Somewhat shorter throw and much better feel though removal of the stock shifters rubber vibration isolator.

The Hurst was designed by Chris Reinhart who, at one time was (and may still be) a ZR-1 owner. In fact, he designed the shfiter for his own car then sold the design to Hurst.

A shifter change on a C4 with a ZF S6-40 does not require removal of the trans. You remove the center console trim then pull off the lower shift boot and, viola...there's the shifter.

[Jagdpanzer]

I have had both the Hust and Bill B's in my 94 Z and prefer the more solid feel of the Hurst.
A while back Johnny Phrogs posted a good write up on doing a Hust install on the other forum:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/1063558-hurst-shifter-install.html

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I'm not sure if the B&M is no longer available, but I love it more than my Hurst. I installed the Hurst in my 90 back when I got it and all I know other than stock until I bought this 95. The 95 came with a B&M and I love how it feels and goes into each gear with precision and positive action.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Not sure if this link with work since from the other forum:

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/luvmy92//zf6_c4_shifters.htm

I don't agree, but this is from the designer of the Hurst shfter.

[mike100]

If you are talking about converting to a 95 crash-thru shift detent, then, yes- you have to pull the trans and take it apart.

I had Bill B do that on my 91 when I had it repaired in 2011.

[ZR1North]

I switched to the Hurst SS this past winter after driving Bob's WARP TEN and being incredibly impressed with how it felt. I've been extremely pleased with the mod after about 1,700 miles which included mountain run 3. Marc did mine as part of the winter upgrade, but I know the transmission was not out during the project.

[FU]

Why what is wrong with the Hurst?

Bad experience with the Hurst shifter on the ZF. Plus I just don't care for it. I prefer the Billy B shifter.

[RussMcB]

Bad experience with the Hurst shifter on the ZF.Can you elaborate? I was just about to click 'Buy'.

Thanks.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Can you elaborate? I was just about to click 'Buy'.

Thanks.

Bill Boudreau shifters:

http://www.zfdoc.com/S6-40ShifterOptions.htm

[FU]

It's hard to explain. The Hurst shifter was installed on one of my ZR'1's. Shortly after the install I had trouble going into 4th gear during spirited driving. That was very unusual to have trouble with 4th gear. Out went the transmission to Billy for a full cryo job and let him put back a stock modified shifter. That trans now has been in 2 modified cars and a lot of hard shifts with no problem whatsoever. Just change the oil that's all. And these ZF's need the oil changed often. And don't forget to change the clutch fluid too.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Does anyone have a 95 and did the Bill B Crash-Thru Short Shifter mod; how did you like it? I imagine anything from the ZF Doc is great and proven.

How about the Custom Lift-Ring Short Throw Shifter ($450.00) For S6-40 Retrofit with 1964-1967 Shift Lever Appearance? Very cool thought even if a bit pricey. Slicker than oyster sn**chie.

[5ABI VT]

I have a few more pics in by thread on CF but this was one pic I had comparing the Hurst vs oem. One thing I know for sure and have experienced is the ZF is very temperamental with fluid types and condition of the hydraulic system. When everything is bled right and working I have never had a grind in any gear with any shifter. Bills site mentions that as well.

I also cut the top off the hurst just a little to get my momo knob a tad lower ;)
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/5EB31351-4025-48ED-AB70-B48B8027907C-736-000000BE0C0E7F85_zps060cd495.jpg

[5ABI VT]

Since there are 2 threads about shifters I thought Id post here.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/ZR-1%20fuel%20pumps/8676A08B-DCDD-4869-B5F6-AF61FBA126EF_zpsnbqeh1ya.png (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/ZR-1%20fuel%20pumps/8676A08B-DCDD-4869-B5F6-AF61FBA126EF_zpsnbqeh1ya.png.html)

[mike100]

Does anyone have a 95 and did the Bill B Crash-Thru Short Shifter mod; how did you like it? I imagine anything from the ZF Doc is great and proven.
...

I had a regular LT1 95 with the crash thru reverse detent. My 91 ZR-1 had the shifter detent rod and ball bearing detent pattern block swapped to 95 parts during the rebuild. It feels the same...well except I have a Hurst shifter that is slightly shorter. No lockout ring is a cleaner look and there is no way you are going to accidentally find reverse on the 95/96 ZF shifters.

I prefer it, especially since my first C4 was that 95.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I had a regular LT1 95 with the crash thru reverse detent. My 91 ZR-1 had the shifter detent rod and ball bearing detent pattern block swapped to 95 parts during the rebuild. It feels the same...well except I have a Hurst shifter that is slightly shorter. No lockout ring is a cleaner look and there is no way you are going to accidentally find reverse on the 95/96 ZF shifters.

I prefer it, especially since my first C4 was that 95.

Thanks Mike. Whoa, I saw your earlier post and if the 95 needs to pull the trans to mess with the shifter then forget it. Well, the crash-thru has already been removed. I guess a call to the Doc would be the best.

[Paul Workman]

Good info! Thanks to all that have contributed!:cheers:

[Bob Eyres]

[QUOTE=FU;229071]It's hard to explain. The Hurst shifter was installed on one of my ZR'1's. Shortly after the install I had trouble going into 4th gear during spirited driving. That was very unusual to have trouble with 4th gear. Out went the transmission to Billy for a full cryo job and let him put back a stock modified shifter. That trans now has been in 2 modified cars and a lot of hard shifts with no problem whatsoever. QUOTE]

It's not clear why you think the shifter was the problem. If Bill tore the box down and cryoed the gears, then changed the shifter. How would that isolate the shifter as the problem. just sayin'. :confused:

I've had a Hurst in there for a decade or so, (one of Chris Reinhart's prototypes), no problem, and better than stock.

As far as the B&M Ripper goes, when it first came out, it had almost universally bad reviews, maybe they've re-designed it, but I doubt it.

[WARP TEN]

I switched to the Hurst SS this past winter after driving Bob's WARP TEN and being incredibly impressed with how it felt. I've been extremely pleased with the mod after about 1,700 miles which included mountain run 3. Marc did mine as part of the winter upgrade, but I know the transmission was not out during the project.

Bob is right--mine is a Hurst with the stock shifter knob. I do like it a lot although I am sure that Bill's shifter--which retains the stock vibration damper--is great as well. Without the vibration damper the Hurst is just a little clunky but still fine for me. Much tighter shifts than stock and you don't hit the cd sticking out when shifting into third. I went with the Hurst on my 95 after having had one for about 10 years on my 93. The 93 had the lift ring detent for reverse which I hated. When I did the Hurst on the 93 I just eliminated it and just relied on the stock spring detent for the reverse gate. Never had a problem with accidently shifting into reverse. Worked great. Before going with the Hurst in my 93 I drove a corvette with the B&M Ripper Shifter and did not like it at all as Bob Eyres noted.--Bob

[Z51JEFF]

I'm glad you brought this up Paul. I've got a new Hurst shifter I've been wanting to install but haven't had a chance.

[efnfast]

I'm glad you brought this up Paul. I've got a new Hurst shifter I've been wanting to install but haven't had a chance.
Yeah, me too.

[Z51JEFF]

I've read or heard the exhaust needs to come off for the shifter upgrade and also is it possible to replace the shifter without going under the car, I've got a one car garage and getting the car up in the air in that garage is not one of my favorite things. Does anybody make a plain white shifter ball for this shifter.

[WVZR-1]

Does anybody make a plain white shifter ball for this shifter.

I've seen 2" plain white knobs but I don't recall seeing a 2 1/4" which is what I believe the original HURST knobs would have been. I don't know that the current knobs black or white are actually 2 1/4".

Speaking of shifters. Does anyone still have the KWR modified installed?

[Corvettes White]

FYI. There is a new in box Hurst shifter FS on Corvette Forum C4 parts section.

[Bob Eyres]

Does anybody make a plain white shifter ball for this shifter.

I've looked for a white one too, no luck. Somebody offers a black one, but Hurst doesn't offer any. :confused:
Why do they sell a shifter, but no Hurst knob?
I'd like one because they feel better than the stock knob, and just for "old time" sake. :cheers:

[-=Jeff=-]

I've looked for a white one too, no luck. Somebody offers a black one, but Hurst doesn't offer any. :confused:
Why do they sell a shifter, but no Hurst knob?
I'd like one because they feel better than the stock knob, and just for "old time" sake. :cheers:

They made them in both colors.. they may not make them anymore.. BUT

White
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HURST-C4-Corvette-WHITE-Shift-Knob-6-Speed-with-HURST-on-sides-Use-On-3915084-/301652461752?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Black
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hurst-6-speed-shifter-shift-knob-BLACK-1989-1996-C4-Corvette-ZR1-w-ZF-S6-40-/281755103015?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

[-=Jeff=-]

Does anybody make a plain white shifter ball for this shifter.


Check www.flameball.com

http://www.flameball.com/index.php/shift-knobs/plain.html?color=31

[Bob Eyres]

They made them in both colors.. they may not make them anymore.. BUT

White
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HURST-C4-Corvette-WHITE-Shift-Knob-6-Speed-with-HURST-on-sides-Use-On-3915084-/301652461752?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368


Thanks Jeff. Just ordered one. I don't know why that didn't pop up in my searches. :cheers:

[Z51JEFF]

They made them in both colors.. they may not make them anymore.. BUT

White
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HURST-C4-Corvette-WHITE-Shift-Knob-6-Speed-with-HURST-on-sides-Use-On-3915084-/301652461752?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Black
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hurst-6-speed-shifter-shift-knob-BLACK-1989-1996-C4-Corvette-ZR1-w-ZF-S6-40-/281755103015?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

I have the white one but don't recall it coming with the jam nut. Does anybody know if the jam nut can be bought seperate from the ball?

[WVZR-1]

I have the white one but don't recall it coming with the jam nut. Does anybody know if the jam nut can be bought seperate from the ball?

If the knob is still in the original package the jamb nut actually positions the ball in the blister pack. It's only a barrel with two flats and not a hex affair.


The nuts are nearly always on eBay also. 9/16-18 Hurst nut should get you there.

[edram454]

I just bought a hurst shifter with a black hurst engraved shifter ball and it does come with the nut in the package.

[Paul Workman]

Where and how much for the shifter??

Thanks in advance, guys!

[-=Jeff=-]

http://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=291

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hurst-3915084-1989-thru-1996-Corvette-ZR1-6-Speed-ZF-Short-Shifter-BRAND-NEW-/271639515733?hash=item3f3efa1255&vxp=mtr

[Z51JEFF]

Where and how much for the shifter??

Thanks in advance, guys!

I think the ball I bought years ago was a knockoff so I just bought one on EBay,don't really matter cause I can't find the damn thing. I did find at least one Hurst shift ball,white on Amazon for about $40 shipped. I'm going to attempt the shifter install this weekend in my one car garage. Wish me luck,sounds like a YouTube moment in the making. I'd post some pictures but not sure how from my iPhone.

[edram454]

Where and how much for the shifter??

Thanks in advance, guys!

Paul,

I believe I paid $164.00 for the shifter and about 40 dollars for the ball. the ball is black with white engraved shifter numbers for our shift pattern and it has on each side "Hurst" engraved also. This will be installed in my car next month. I bought them both on ebay.

ed ramos #3028

[Paul Workman]

Thanks for the cost info. That project is now on my "list"! I just need to read up on how it is done on a ZF trans and 'git er done!!'

[Billy Mild]

I think the ball I bought years ago was a knockoff so I just bought one on EBay,don't really matter cause I can't find the damn thing. I did find at least one Hurst shift ball,white on Amazon for about $40 shipped. I'm going to attempt the shifter install this weekend in my one car garage. Wish me luck,sounds like a YouTube moment in the making. I'd post some pictures but not sure how from my iPhone.

The shifter swap is a PIA. I didn't drop the exhaust and it was a pain to get the pin out. Getting it back in wasn't either. When you are putting the pin back in keep in mind you might need another person to hold the shifter while hammering away. I also do not have a punch. I only have rachet extension and what not.

After it being done, the shifter is awesome. Make sure to lube all the interfacing surfaces, once it warms up and you drive it a bit the shifter will loosen up a bit.

[Billy Mild]

I think the ball I bought years ago was a knockoff so I just bought one on EBay,don't really matter cause I can't find the damn thing. I did find at least one Hurst shift ball,white on Amazon for about $40 shipped. I'm going to attempt the shifter install this weekend in my one car garage. Wish me luck,sounds like a YouTube moment in the making. I'd post some pictures but not sure how from my iPhone.

The shifter swap is a PIA. I didn't drop the exhaust and it was a pain to get the pin out. Getting it back in wasn't either. When you are putting the pin back in keep in mind you might need another person to hold the shifter while hammering away. I also do not have a punch. I only have rachet extension and what not.

After it being done, the shifter is awesome. Make sure to lube all the interfacing surfaces, once it warms up and you drive it a bit the shifter will loosen up a bit. Shim it up as best you can and be happy you did the swap.

[Roadster]

Well you guys "talked" me into it.....:D placed the order this afternoon for the shifter and shifter knob, should be here in a few days. A project for the future for sure!!! I have to stop reading this forum.....:read2:

[Z51JEFF]

I just got the Hurst shifter ball and found the powder coating on the threads of the shifter is so thick the ball won't thread onto the shifter. I'll have to chase the threads with a 9/16-18 die.

[Z51JEFF]

Well,didn't exactly work as planned.I got the car up in the air but didn't have enough room to drop the exhaust so I didn't get it done.For those that have done this without dropping the exhaust,I honestly don't see how that is possible,THERE ISNT ANY ROOM!But it wasn't a total blowout,changed the oil and replaced the fluid in the trans and got a good look at the leaky exhaust manifold bolt.So the plan once I get more to work on the car is replace the shifter,replace exhaust possibly BB system,install Beam Plates Ive had for years and re-undercoat the bottom of the car and anything else I can think of in the mean time but I will be watching to see how this works out for you guys.One question though,how common is it to break one of these bolts at the exhaust collector?

[RussMcB]

Hi, gang. Tonight I started a Hurst shifter install and have a question.

Note: I bought my new Hurst shifter on ebay. AFAIK it is complete, but it did not come with retail packaging or instructions.

I've been following very useful instructions and pictures in this thread (from 2005): http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/1063558-hurst-shifter-install.html

Tonight's question is about removing the lower rubber boot after removing two of the three tie wraps.

Per the instructions in that thread, I have removed the big top tie wrap and the lower small tie wrap (leaving the top small tie wrap in place). At this point I'm supposed to pull the rubber boot away but I'm not quite sure how (in which direction). That instruction/picture step seems to be missing. Should it go backward? Upward? Downward?

TIA.

[Demps]

Lower small tie wrap boot...aft

[RussMcB]

Tuesday night questions...

I pulled the boot back, exposing the front lower circlip (not an easy task - the boot is pretty tight and sturdy, doesn't want to stay back).

I was able to grab the circlip and pry it off (or at least forward and off the shaft, out of the groove). That has exposed a pin, and I'm guessing that's the one that people say is a S.O.B.

So, am I correct in thinking my next step is to drive that pin straight upwards until the shifter can comes loose and be removed from up inside the car?

While I'm asking questions...

I didn't get any shims with my shifter. Is that going to be a problem? I haven't seen any shims yet during the removal, but I guess that's because I haven't gotten that far yet.

Does anyone have the instructions that came in the box? Am I missing out on important stuff by not having them?

Thank, as always.

[5ABI VT]

Tuesday night questions...

I pulled the boot back, exposing the front lower circlip (not an easy task - the boot is pretty tight and sturdy, doesn't want to stay back).

I was able to grab the circlip and pry it off (or at least forward and off the shaft, out of the groove). That has exposed a pin, and I'm guessing that's the one that people say is a S.O.B.

So, am I correct in thinking my next step is to drive that pin straight upwards until the shifter can comes loose and be removed from up inside the car?

While I'm asking questions...

I didn't get any shims with my shifter. Is that going to be a problem? I haven't seen any shims yet during the removal, but I guess that's because I haven't gotten that far yet.

Does anyone have the instructions that came in the box? Am I missing out on important stuff by not having them?

Thank, as always.

Yes that is the pin!

As for shims you shouldn't need new shims as the hurst re-uses the 'cradle' part of the shifter. If it fits well now it should be the same after.

[Paul Workman]

This discussion = all very interesting!

And, wouldn't ya just know it...when just about to pull the trigger on a new shifter, some residual BS (left over from a recent hacking) needed some attention, costing me X2+ what a shifter would have set me back... :mad: :censored: When it rains, it pours! Story of my life.

I continue to take notes, but the shifter is going to have to wait a little longer. Maybe by September in time for the annual CPCC Shootout (on the 17th of OCTOBER).

See LINK (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=229973#post229973)

[Gunny]

... Does anyone have the instructions that came in the box? ...

Check your email ;)

[RussMcB]

Check your email ;)Great. Thank you.

I uploaded the four pages to an album --> http://zr1.net/forum/album.php?u=3738

[Roadster]

My shifter and shifter knob just arrived a few minutes ago....:)
Instructions and small bag of small parts included....now to just find the time to install....

[RussMcB]

Thought I'd place this picture here for folks (Thanks for sending, Gunny!).

http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=327&pictureid=2910

My status: I've gotten the stock shifter out of the car, unassembled, and now I'm assembling the new parts to go back in (probably tomorrow night - It's nice working at a casual pace).

My pins were not an S.O.B. to get out. Just a few well placed smacks with a hammer and punch.

[RussMcB]

Wednesday PM: Decent progress, but I'm challenged by the lower boot. I have not yet determined the best tool/hand combination to do it. Seems pretty close to impossible. The boot is sturdy, there's no way to get fingers up in there.

Any suggestions?

The earlier parts went pretty smoothly.

The Hurst instructions were helpful. I would have struggled without them.

It definitely helped to have the wife in the car while I was below trying to slip the shift rod u-joint back onto the transmission rod. She could pull slightly back on the shifter while I guided it back on.

Putting the pin and snap ring back in place was a challenge, but not too bad. Maybe twenty minutes.

I've "gone through the gears" (without running the engine) and the shift pattern feels good.

[Billy Mild]

I did take the advice of the guy on the Corvette Forum, that basically you need to file down a few spots on the shifter. This allows for ease of use right out of the gate.

Make sure spray some white lithium grease and use the whole tube of the Hurst stuff as well. What kind of shift knob did you use?

[RussMcB]

I did take the advice of the guy on the Corvette Forum, that basically you need to file down a few spots on the shifter. This allows for ease of use right out of the gate.I read that, too. I never saw a picture of that, so I guessed and did this:
http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=327&pictureid=2911

I did that by holding it lightly against the top of the belt sander for a second.

What kind of shift knob did you use?I plan to put the stock knob (a new one) on.

I haven't crawled back under the car to finish the job yet. I'm waiting/hoping someone might post how they were able to get the lower boot back onto the transmission shaft opening. I assume it will be free sailing after that task (just top end cosmetic things to put back in place).