Removing transmission fill/drain plugs

[Arctic91]

I attempted to drain and fill the transmission oil at our local maintenance day, but the fill plug simply would not budge. I soaked them with WD-40 earlier in the week and using brute force with a 17mm hex and breaker bar damaged the female hex portion of the plug. I didn't attempt to force the drain plug since it was obvious the fluid was not going to be changed today.

Any suggestions for removing these plugs when they seem to be seized?

Thanks,
Scott

[Z51JEFF]

I've heard the plugs can be a bear to get loose. I shortened the Allen section to get it as close as possible and used a long breaker bar to get mine out. If you can get the car up in the air get a long pipe and a helper and that should do it. Once the plug gets damaged you only have a few more shots before the trans will need to come out do to the damaged Allen socket.

[WVZR-1]

Surprises me that it's NOT done. You were in very good company. I've removed the hex from the socket and just used a quality box end wrench which allows you to keep the leverage closer to the plug. You can use a "cheater" also with the box wrench.

Not for a ZR-1 but a friend welded a correct hex to an older box wrench for just that purpose on one of his projects.

[A26B]

To get more engagement from the hex drive, I ground the end of mine off to eliminate the chamfer on the end, and just lightly de-butted the edges. I too needed a cheater on my wrench.

[Dynomite]

I attempted to drain and fill the transmission oil at our local maintenance day, but the fill plug simply would not budge. I soaked them with WD-40 earlier in the week and using brute force with a 17mm hex and breaker bar damaged the female hex portion of the plug. I didn't attempt to force the drain plug since it was obvious the fluid was not going to be changed today.

Any suggestions for removing these plugs when they seem to be seized?

Thanks,
Scott

Allen wrench for fill plugs (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=74280)

Before you destroy the plug completely or destroy Torx Bolts on the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds.........try a little heat from an acetylene torch (do not melt the aluminum).

On the Injector housing Coolant Manifolds.......apply heat along each bolt location separately (including the unthreaded shank of the bolt as the shank is often corroded inside the coolant manifold) and on the injector housing where the bolt is threaded (Remove each bolt separately before going on to another).

On Cam Cover Torx Bolts........you cannot get heat at the proper location but others have had great success with vibration (Impact wrench). I had great success with a chisel :D which after thinking ........... it was vibration that loosened the Torx Cam Cover Bolts even in my case. This ALL with engine in car.

Heat Always Works (HAW)

You might take a photo with cell phone of the plug so we can see hex and outside threads for more suggestions Before you do more damage :p

[We Gone]

Heat Always Works (HAW)

Yep even just a hand held propane torch will do the job.

[diamond zr1]

I might add a trick an old diesel mechanic taught me/apply heat directly to head of plug or bolt/after getting it hot/not cherry red hot/spray water directly on the head quelching it/sometimes it takes a couple cycles of heat/ cool to get it loose//it will easily come out//try it

[5ABI VT]

I couldnt get mine loose and it rounded the plug out. I tried several ways and I believe they all helped make it easier for how I did get it loose which was a vice grip and a long breaker bar. There were enough threads to allow the vice grip to squeeze and I think squishing the plug possibly helped too.

[Dynomite]

I couldnt get mine loose and it rounded the plug out. I tried several ways and I believe they all helped make it easier for how I did get it loose which was a vice grip and a long breaker bar. There were enough threads to allow the vice grip to squeeze and I think squishing the plug possibly helped too.

Concur :thumbsup:.....that is why I suggested You might take a photo with cell phone of the plug so we can see hex and outside threads for more suggestions Before you do more damage :p

I have used Channel Locks or a pipe wrench also (after a bit of heat) if you do not have vice grips large enough.

Transmission Fill/Drain Plug Source TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=179957)

More VW Plugs (https://www.google.com/search?q=volkswagen+WHT-001-937&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS557US557&espv=2&biw=1517&bih=741&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=BEOaVebxO8nvoASk_raIDA&ved=0CCoQsAQ&dpr=0.9)

[Paul Workman]

Not much to add here, but I concur with using heat - aka "the blue wrench", works (on other applications) when other methods fail. Also, I have an impact driver which has worked where nothing else has as well. (sometimes a sharp hammer blow does double duty: might break the bond between threads, and for sure relieves some personal emotional stress that might have built up!:p)

To make sure it is not a problem ever since, I put some "Neverseize" (sp?) on the threads before reinstalling the plugs.

Oh, by the way...! It is probably a good idea to remove the FILL plug first to be sure you can get it out before draining the transmission. Just a thought!!

[Arctic91]

Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas... there is not much of a lip for a set of vice grips to bite into on the outside, but I'm thinking that I'll try heat, with a slightly oversized torx bit pounded in (which should also give the "shock" effect to the threads), followed by an impact hammer and chisel at an angle to see if I can at least get it started. There should be enough of a lip for that.

If that all fails, maybe a bolt head welded onto the plug?

Anyone have success with any extraction products along the lines of this:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-2017&cm_mmc=SEM-_-GGL-_-PLA-_-NA&003=18299132&010=891-2017&mkwid=s|dc&pcrid=40408367174&gclid=COLfnNXfxsYCFdUXHwodcGkMBA


Scott

[5ABI VT]

This is what mine looked like. A socket later rounded it but the vice grips did the trick.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/ZR-1%20Clutch%20flywheel%20install/5D0CEEF1-73EF-4CC5-BE39-36D3CFEAED26_zpsgf7zoim7.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/ZR-1%20Clutch%20flywheel%20install/5D0CEEF1-73EF-4CC5-BE39-36D3CFEAED26_zpsgf7zoim7.jpg.html)

[Racinfan83]

I sprayed mine with PB Blaster and let it soak for an hour. Then inserted the allen wrench, and used a 1 1/4" box end wrench as a cheater. Worked like a champ...

[Mystic ZR-1]

This is what mine looked like. A socket later rounded it but the vice grips did the trick.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/ZR-1%20Clutch%20flywheel%20install/5D0CEEF1-73EF-4CC5-BE39-36D3CFEAED26_zpsgf7zoim7.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/ZR-1%20Clutch%20flywheel%20install/5D0CEEF1-73EF-4CC5-BE39-36D3CFEAED26_zpsgf7zoim7.jpg.html)

WOW!
What did you run over to do that?

[Paul Workman]

AutoZone sells some 1/2" drive, (17mm) socket allens. I put a piece of water pipe on the breaker bar, as I recall and it came out.

[WVZR-1]

Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas... there is not much of a lip for a set of vice grips to bite into on the outside, but I'm thinking that I'll try heat, with a slightly oversized torx bit pounded in (which should also give the "shock" effect to the threads), followed by an impact hammer and chisel at an angle to see if I can at least get it started. There should be enough of a lip for that.

If that all fails, maybe a bolt head welded onto the plug?

Anyone have success with any extraction products along the lines of this:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-2017&cm_mmc=SEM-_-GGL-_-PLA-_-NA&003=18299132&010=891-2017&mkwid=s|dc&pcrid=40408367174&gclid=COLfnNXfxsYCFdUXHwodcGkMBA


Scott

No to the extractors and if you found a "tall nut" that fit the M17 hex then the welding idea works well OR just weld the M17 hex from a cheap socket bought from the AP stores or Sears. An exhaust shop that does exhaust all day long would have it done in likely 20 minutes or less.

You mentioned over-sized Torx and there's no Torx involved. Space constraints make the other ideas less likely. The plug if it's OE is steel and weldable. If you've doubts check with a magnet.

Get yourself a couple of the VW plugs that I've suggested previously and Cliff mentions but make sure they sell you the part number I mention. There's a later plug that uses a VW spec tool for removal and you'd like to avoid that. Let the exhaust shop loosen the drain for you also, return home and complete the project.