Windshield

[John Boothby]

The delam has reached a point on my windshield that I want to change it. I know I will not get a NOS or replica, so I am looking at a standard C4 windshield. Safelite will install a new windshield with molding for around $350. I hav'nt priced one through the chevy dealer as yet. Anyone out there have any suggestions?

Thanks

John

[Paul Workman]

Marc uses Safelite, and I followed his recommendation. But, I purchased my own rubber, and I ended up re-using the subframe OE; the ones they had provided were not correct (for some reason).

I went to their shop as they had a guy there familiar with the C4 windshield replacement. Took about an hour or so. and I'm very happy with the glass.

[John Boothby]

Safelite pay myself quick quote was $314.95. Includes all moldings and install in-store.

Paul, what was your source for the molding?

Thanks

John

[Paul Workman]

Safelite pay myself quick quote was $314.95. Includes all moldings and install in-store.

Paul, what was your source for the molding?

Thanks

John

I got it at Corvette Rubber. However, I'd suggest, instead you check with someone that has used .Wilcox as CR is slow to respond (customer service was horrible). Marc might have a good idea too.

[WVZR-1]

I would do local calls looking for "experienced installer" speak to the installer and make a decision on the install/vendor based on that conversation. The "branding" of the glass I would think is second to the experience of the installer.

The mention of Safelite satisfaction doesn't speak for what you might experience in your own area.

I believe when you use the "quick quote" it's likely an assumed install with just a generic molding used in most applications.

I'd just price using maybe the NAGS DW1075GBN or DW1112GBN and seeing what's offered. LOF/PPG or what in branding. I believe that Safelite uses glass done only to their minimum specs and I wouldn't be surprised if it was all "offshore" sourced. That doesn't mean that LOF/PPG or whatever isn't but I believe it worth asking. The DW1075GBN is the most frequently used and the other was a '91 - '96 NAGS

[John Boothby]

Thanks for the info.

I have had Safelite install windshields in several cars and my Grand Cherokee to my satisfaction. I agree that the quick quote is probably lowball.

One thing I am concerned about is the tinting. Is there a windshield that will provide heat protection similar to the original.

[WVZR-1]

Thanks for the info.

I have had Safelite install windshields in several cars and my Grand Cherokee to my satisfaction. I agree that the quick quote is probably lowball.

One thing I am concerned about is the tinting. Is there a windshield that will provide heat protection similar to the original.

This ain't your Cherokee or the other cars, this is a C4 Corvette and the "installer" makes or breaks the deal. I imagine double the quoted price minimum to correct the damage an inexperienced installer could inflict.

Most all windshields presently are "shaded" and noted in the windshield "bug" and that's another reason to be concerned about the source of the glass. You can sit off-shore glass side by side to the known branded product and see the differences.

[John Boothby]

So, has anyone from here had a bad install from Safelite? I understand issues regarding a bad install, but I havn't heard any negative remarks about Safelite either. I imagine they stand behind their work.

Has anyone heard of "Technaglass" or "Superior"?

[Z51JEFF]

I have read about distortion issues with Safelite glass but can't speak from experience. Years ago I did all the removal,cleanup on the WS frame and had I think Safelite come out and install meaning lay down the urethane sealer and drop the WS in the frame and I paid $125. I requested a LOF part and got a Pilkington which I was told by Safelite was a LOF part. The original trim can be reused but it takes care in getting it off the car. One benefit of using the original trim is the holes for the trim are drilled in the WS frame at the time the trim is attached meaning different trim holes won't line up. Anybody want to venture a guess as to what the 3 pieces of trim cost when you could still buy it? Try between $700-900 for the set. I've done this if anybody needs some tips.

[HIZNHRZ]

Except for bolt-ons, my ZR-1 looks like a new car. It's hard to believe the difference new glass makes, even to a ZR-1 that was in like new condition to begin with. When my car was last at Marc's he had Safelite install a new windshield. It not only looks great but I notice no distortion in the glass or difference in the performance of AC cooling. I was and continue to be very pleased.

[John Boothby]

Thank you all for your input. I've talked to and done business with Marc in the past, and if he endorses it, I believe it to be good!

Thanks again,

John

[WVZR-1]

Except for bolt-ons, my ZR-1 looks like a new car. It's hard to believe the difference new glass makes, even to a ZR-1 that was in like new condition to begin with. When my car was last at Marc's he had Safelite install a new windshield. It not only looks great but I notice no distortion in the glass or difference in the performance of AC cooling. I was and continue to be very pleased.



What is the "branding" of your glass? I understand it was installed by Safelite but doesn't assure the branding. They actually might use something other than theirs as just a matter of economics and satisfaction. They might use different branding in different sections of the country. I believe branding is a matter of convenience, maybe a request or simply logistics.

[John Boothby]

Whoever winds up installing my new windshield, I will be sure to check branding.

Thanks,

John

[batchman]

Just an FYI, my wife's 88 C4 has an LOF windshield (all 4 pieces of glass, guessing it's OE) and it has some of the worst distortion I've ever seen in automotive glass. It's been in there since she bought the car in 1989, and no reason to believe it's been changed.

So I think for a car that's a "keeper", I'd want to see and approve any WS before install...

Did get a Pilkington in my ol' beater Lincoln, it was fine.
- Jeff

[Paul Workman]

Being on hand when it is installed would prevent a WS having distortions in it, I would think. Anyway... Mine - all 3 of them, including the one in the Z are beautiful; distortion free (far as I can tell).

And, talk about distortion...to be completely rid of that delamination is a real plus. (Ya might be surprised at how much is hidden behind the A pillar and the delamination combination until the delam is gone!:thumbsup:)

[Fully Vetted]

Since the purpose of the tint was to reduce heat in the cabin my question to you guys that have gone to the standard C4 windshield is...can you tell a difference? Does your A/C keep up ok on hot days?

[John Boothby]

Just got off the phone with Safelite. $314.95 inslalled, less tax, includes molding. Safelite stated that they get the molding directly from the dealer and they guarantee everything. The glass is made in the USA by them. Also stated that all their new glass is "Solar" and has good protection from the sun/heat.

[Paul Workman]

I would be ready with "stuff" to R&R the sub molding strips, in case the ones they provide aren't quite right...speaking from experience.

(Oh, and if you DO end up R&R'ing those pieces and reusing them, they will credit you the cost for the new ones, as I recall. Because I provided the rubber amd restored the sub molding pieces, my bill was about $250 installed with tax, IIRC.)

[cvette98pacecar]

John, The original ZR-1 glass was made by Pilkington. I would suggest talking with the sales rep and asking if they can get Pilkington glass. You wont get the radar cutout, but you will get the correct glass.

[John Boothby]

Thanks. I have scheduled the install for next tuesday. I will call them tomorrow and inquire regarding Pilkington glass.

I am still trying to figure out what Paul means by "stuff". How about it Paul? By "R&R" do you mean "remove & replace" or "remove & restore"? By "sub moulding are you referring to "moulding garnish" as discribed in the FSM?

Thanks,

John

[Z51JEFF]

Just got off the phone with Safelite. $314.95 inslalled, less tax, includes molding. Safelite stated that they get the molding directly from the dealer and they guarantee everything. The glass is made in the USA by them. Also stated that all their new glass is "Solar" and has good protection from the sun/heat.

From what I understand the molding and the weather striping was discontinued years ago. The longest piece of the 3 pieces of trim, the one piece cost almost $300 when you could buy it. An NOS weather strip will cost $400 if you can find one. Where exactly are they getting the trim?I don't think Safelites getting anything from an OEM dealer.This should be interesting to say the least.

[Paul Workman]

Thanks. I have scheduled the install for next tuesday. I will call them tomorrow and inquire regarding Pilkington glass.

I am still trying to figure out what Paul means by "stuff". How about it Paul? By "R&R" do you mean "remove & replace" or "remove & restore"? By "sub moulding are you referring to "moulding garnish" as discribed in the FSM?

Thanks,

John

Cleaning stuff...to remove the old adhesive or rubber, etc from the various strips and pieces (you'll see) - to make it ready to reinstall and receive the seal and caulk, etc. (I had some 3M Adhesive Remover, wire brushes, scrapers, etc. with me and used them all to "R&R" the metal strips for reassembly.):)

[John Boothby]

I am planning to replace the windshield weatherstrip while I am at it. Checked Eckler's, $150 for the Made in USA rubber. Any comments?

John

[John Boothby]

Safelite installed the new windshield (DW1112) yesterday. Reused the moldings, no problem. Installed new weatherstrip from Safelite, fit great! Also, saved the old windshield (undamaged) for posterity! Job took 3 hrs and the tech was very neat. Total cost was $305! Windshield has "Solar Tint" for UV resistance. Only downside was Windshield was "Made in u guessed it". But what isn't these days! Looks great and havn't discovered any distortion.

John

[Demps]

I'd like to see it. Were you driving up U.S.-95 last week? I saw a red '90 on the road.
Ted

[John Boothby]

That wasn't me. !0 years ago there were around 15 ZR-1's in the Vegas area that I could account for. I don't know the current number.

I would be happy to show you anytime. I live near the 215 and Trop. (southwest).

[Dynomite]

Marc uses Safelite, and I followed his recommendation. But, I purchased my own rubber, and I ended up re-using the subframe OE; the ones they had provided were not correct (for some reason).

I went to their shop as they had a guy there familiar with the C4 windshield replacement. Took about an hour or so. and I'm very happy with the glass.

Did you provide your own windshield or buy a windshield from Safelite?
What rubber did you purchase and what was the source?
What is the subframe OE......is this the molding John mentions that he reused?

Does Marc have Safelite install windshields he obtains from other sources?

[5ABI VT]

on my to-do list for sure. A new windshield makes a massive difference. its the pitting/age that concerns me more than the delam because it makes the car look and feel brand new... Ok the delam sucks too but I definitely need one.

Anyone know of any experienced C4 glass installers around Buffalo/NY or Michigan near Detroit?

[C4Ray]

I have no had any issues yet on my 93' C4 regarding de-lamination but if I did, I would have someone do it for me. What a mess it would be for the DIY guy.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hello John,

Thanks for sharing your experience. I need to do mine too and wondering if you found that there is no such thing as a "US" made windshield replacement for our cars? As much as I want to keep original, it really takes away from the car with the condition of the windshield and being asked what is wrong with it.

[WVZR-1]

This Phoenix based glass shop summarizes the windshield choices and branding pretty well. If you research the brands that they mention you will have covered "most" of the quality replacement product out there.

Some shops have a contractual purchasing agreement and they install "what's shipped" - it's certainly suggested to shop this effort first.

http://www.bluechipglass.com/Not-all-Glass-is-Created-Equal.html

I have absolutely no knowledge regarding this facility but they explain it in a very short and direct fashion. I don't believe they leave anything unanswered regarding "branding". I've driven cars with lesser product and seen the issues, which is generally most noticed in night time driving, sometimes in only night time driving and an "onsite" replacement for my last truck windshield when quizzed as to brand they told me straight out "what's shipped", I declined and then was offered choices rather than me calling my insurance company and requesting a different vendor.

Pilkington has now I believe product that's not domestic production but it's said to be of no lesser quality.

[5ABI VT]

Probably best for another thread but anyone know about or use a polycarbonate windshield ? Wondering how much weight savings there would be

[John Boothby]

Hi Craig. As I recall, all the places around here that I checked, were made outside the U.S. The one I got from Safelite was made in China, but appears good quality, has all the DOT approved markings and looks great on the car! Vision is great also as is the tint.
I took it on a trip in July in the desert heat with no problems.

John

[HAWAIIZR-1]

This Phoenix based glass shop summarizes the windshield choices and branding pretty well. If you research the brands that they mention you will have covered "most" of the quality replacement product out there.

Some shops have a contractual purchasing agreement and they install "what's shipped" - it's certainly suggested to shop this effort first.

http://www.bluechipglass.com/Not-all-Glass-is-Created-Equal.html

I have absolutely no knowledge regarding this facility but they explain it in a very short and direct fashion. I don't believe they leave anything unanswered regarding "branding". I've driven cars with lesser product and seen the issues, which is generally most noticed in night time driving, sometimes in only night time driving and an "onsite" replacement for my last truck windshield when quizzed as to brand they told me straight out "what's shipped", I declined and then was offered choices rather than me calling my insurance company and requesting a different vendor.

Pilkington has now I believe product that's not domestic production but it's said to be of no lesser quality.

Thanks. Good info and I wish there was a shop like this in the local area.


Probably best for another thread but anyone know about or use a polycarbonate windshield ? Wondering how much weight savings there would be

Mike, I came across a website last night when poking around for info and saw a company that sells polycarbonate for our cars. It sounds like for race cars only and they had different thickness, but it mentioned trim to fit. I guess not safety glass so not sure it can be ran on the street.

Hi Craig. As I recall, all the places around here that I checked, were made outside the U.S. The one I got from Safelite was made in China, but appears good quality, has all the DOT approved markings and looks great on the car! Vision is great also as is the tint.
I took it on a trip in July in the desert heat with no problems.

John

Thanks John. I suppose the quality control is there and outsourcing seems difficult to get away from these days. How can the US compete? I try to buy American made if possible so was asking and I guess no choice. It appears Pilkington's parent company is even owned by Nippon Sheet Glass from Japan.

[WVZR-1]

The windshield has applications for cars that are 20+ years old minimum and where do you think the sourcing is ultimately going to end up. It's very simple for the manufacturers, look at previous 2 years sales and base production (quality and quantity) based on that. I seriously doubt anyone's "first line" production is doing the windshields.

Is there quality "classic glass" out there? Quite likely BUT who's willing to pay the price? The guy looking for a glass that the vendor will "date code" appropriately maybe but for just the everyday driver guy? Likely not.

[Paul Workman]

Did you provide your own windshield or buy a windshield from Safelite?
What rubber did you purchase and what was the source?
What is the subframe OE......is this the molding John mentions that he reused?

Does Marc have Safelite install windshields he obtains from other sources?

Sorry it took so long to respond, Cliff.:o

Windshield provided by Safelite - a non-ZR-1

I bought the rubber from Corvette Rubber, per Robert DeMarco's suggestion.

Yes, the metal strips/moldings.

Safelite was ready to supply their own rubber and molding strips. The rubber was very hard, and the molding strips didn't fit right at all; the reason I cleaned the old ones up and reinstalled them.

Its been over a year now since it was installed. And, FWIW, I have since been through one of the worst rain downpours I've ever driven through - plus several other heavy rains too: No runs! No drips! No errors! (read: distortion) (as they say).

I like it...a lot!. No, it isn't a ZR-1 glass. But, the tinting is very nice and it has that 3 or maybe 4-inch darker tint region across the top edge to block sun. After looking through the delamination for 4 years (talk about distortion?), my undistorted view is a welcome sight!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Sorry it took so long to respond, Cliff.:o

Windshield provided by Safelite - a non-ZR-1

I bought the rubber from Corvette Rubber, per Robert DeMarco's suggestion.

Yes, the metal strips/moldings.

Safelite was ready to supply their own rubber and molding strips. The rubber was very hard, and the molding strips didn't fit right at all; the reason I cleaned the old ones up and reinstalled them.

Its been over a year now since it was installed. And, FWIW, I have since been through one of the worst rain downpours I've ever driven through - plus several other heavy rains too: No runs! No drips! No errors! (read: distortion) (as they say).

I like it...a lot!. No, it isn't a ZR-1 glass. But, the tinting is very nice and it has that 3 or maybe 4-inch darker tint region across the top edge to block sun. After looking through the delamination for 4 years (talk about distortion?), my undistorted view is a welcome sight!

Too bad we couldn't get Chevrolet or the General to replace these for us a safety hazard. My memory is foggy from over 10 years ago, but I remember a bunch of folks trying to write letters and calling Chevrolet to file complaints of this defect that should have been taken care of by Chevrolet. Not enough of us did or had issues to warrant it I guess. Some kind of class action suit would have been good.

[Corvettes White]

Class action is not the correct legal term here.

It would have been a GLASS action. :-D

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Class action is not the correct legal term here.

It would have been a GLASS action. :-D

Yes! Let's do a Glass Action Lawsuit....sounds good to me. :fahne:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Well, after calling around 7 shops in the local area and looking at Yelp reviews, etc. I settled on checking out 2 in person. It was amazing to see how many have no clue about our windshield or the molding, etc. Price range was from $345 to $482 and brands were PPG, PGW, or XWG. One guy is very detailed and did research and called all over the country trying to find the best quality replacement. He said he found the actual part number available across the US and was going to have an in person inspection done by a partner company...so we'll see. I told him I doubt if it is the actual ZR-1 solar windshield and if so it might also be delaminated. In the end, I chickened out. I was supposed to take the car to show them the trim, get a feel for the shop/technician in person, etc. this AM. So I move my Lightning out of the way and uncover the Z. Then it dawned on me that this could turn into a nightmare looking at how pristine this car is. My delamination is not so bad (not like my 90) and just not worth the risk. I guess I am willing to keep the car original and look at a little delamination for awhile. Now if I get a stone or something while touring then so be it and meant to be. Thanks for all the info and considerations posted here for the future. :cheers:

[ZR1North]

I'd say it was a wise (Owl) decision rather than a chicken move, Craig. Interestingly, I got a small stone crack (1/4") this morning when I took the Zee for a 20-mile run which included a quick "activate the secondaries" segment which is when I encountered the stone from a semi. I don't have much delam, so I am hoping this does not spread.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I'd say it was a wise (Owl) decision rather than a chicken move, Craig. Interestingly, I got a small stone crack (1/4") this morning when I took the Zee for a 20-mile run which included a quick "activate the secondaries" segment which is when I encountered the stone from a semi. I don't have much delam, so I am hoping this does not spread.

Mahalo for your thoughts there Bob! Sorry to hear about the stone and crack. I hope that can be repaired by injection or something. I'm curious to know the percentage of our car that have no delamination....those are the very lucky folks. :cheers:

[5ABI VT]

I'd say it was a wise (Owl) decision rather than a chicken move, Craig. Interestingly, I got a small stone crack (1/4") this morning when I took the Zee for a 20-mile run which included a quick "activate the secondaries" segment which is when I encountered the stone from a semi. I don't have much delam, so I am hoping this does not spread.

You can have the crack drilled and sealed if it's from an edge or sealed if it's in the middle . The earlier the better

[C4Ray]

What causes delamination?

Why did GM install delaminated windshields?

[We Gone]

Poor preparation... Gm also have a similar windshield in a small van around the same time that had no issues.

[C4Ray]

Poor prep? It's a ZR1 ... the flagship American sports car! :censored:

[WARP TEN]

I'd say it was a wise (Owl) decision rather than a chicken move, Craig. Interestingly, I got a small stone crack (1/4") this morning when I took the Zee for a 20-mile run which included a quick "activate the secondaries" segment which is when I encountered the stone from a semi. I don't have much delam, so I am hoping this does not spread.


Bob, that's normally covered under your Comprehensive insurance (usually low deductible) and my experience (with Met) is that they will send an expert out to look at it and, if not directly in your field of view or causing a big crack already, they will fill it with epoxy for no charge. They use a vacuum device that essentially sucks the epoxy into the chip. If directly in your field of vision or a large crack it will have to be replaced. I had one on my BMW that was to right of center and they filled it and it has been fine. I can still see it from inside but it is not in my normal field of vision driving. --Bob

[WARP TEN]

What causes delamination?

Why did GM install delaminated windshields?

Ray, the ZR-1 had some limitations with its air conditioning system so GM required a windshield with a metallic film in it to assist in reflecting heat away from the inside of the cabin. This is why we have a cutout at the base of our windshields for the "garage door opener". Obviously this was a low volume run due to the low ZR-1 volume; they are no longer reproduced. Most ZR-1 windshields show some degree of lamination, although I don't know that the delamination problem was known to GM while they were in production. According to Marc Haibeck the later years seems the worst, and certainly the very worst I have seen is the last produced ('95 #448) which has spent its entire life in the Corvette Museum. Also I recall that the purple 95 that Jim bought had a lot of delam and I believe he replaced the windshield with a standard Corvette one. Perhaps he could comment on this. My car has a little around the edges. Some have none. But it is certainly quite common. Go to any gathering of ZR-1s and look at them. -Bob

[C4Ray]

Ray, the ZR-1 had some limitations with its air conditioning system so GM required a windshield with a metallic film in it to assist in reflecting heat away from the inside of the cabin. This is why we have a cutout at the base of our windshields for the "garage door opener". Obviously this was a low volume run due to the low ZR-1 volume; they are no longer reproduced. Most ZR-1 windshields show some degree of lamination, although I don't know that the delamination problem was known to GM while they were in production. According to Marc Haibeck the later years seems the worst, and certainly the very worst I have seen is the last produced ('95 #448) which has spent its entire life in the Corvette Museum. Also I recall that the purple 95 that Jim bought had a lot of delam and I believe he replaced the windshield with a standard Corvette one. Perhaps he could comment on this. My car has a little around the edges. Some have none. But it is certainly quite common. Go to any gathering of ZR-1s and look at them. -Bob

Thanks Bob.

[ZR1North]

Bob, that's normally covered under your Comprehensive insurance (usually low deductible) and my experience (with Met) is that they will send an expert out to look at it and, if not directly in your field of view or causing a big crack already, they will fill it with epoxy for no charge. They use a vacuum device that essentially sucks the epoxy into the chip. If directly in your field of vision or a large crack it will have to be replaced. I had one on my BMW that was to right of center and they filled it and it has been fine. I can still see it from inside but it is not in my normal field of vision driving. --Bob

Thanks, Bob - good advice! Thanks also for the rationale (note to Ray) for the special lamination; it makes sense but hadn't seen it presented that way before.

Interesting you mention the last ZR-1; I was quite surprised to see the delam on it when I first visited NCM many years ago. With this car having spent its entire life within a climate-controlled environment at NCM, it certainly confirms that environmental conditions (UV rays, etc.) has little or nothing to do with the problem.

On a positive note, it does not seem that delamination creeps much over time; at least mine has not noticeably changed in a decade.

Bob

[WVZR-1]

Bob, that's normally covered under your Comprehensive insurance (usually low deductible) and my experience (with Met) is that they will send an expert out to look at it and, if not directly in your field of view or causing a big crack already, they will fill it with epoxy for no charge. They use a vacuum device that essentially sucks the epoxy into the chip. If directly in your field of vision or a large crack it will have to be replaced. I had one on my BMW that was to right of center and they filled it and it has been fine. I can still see it from inside but it is not in my normal field of vision driving. --Bob

If you explain the construction/fabrication of the windshield some vendors/installers might decline the "repair" and I'd be sure to ask the installer/technician that was assigned the job if he understood the construction/fabrication and if it's a certified/warrantable repair.

[Dynomite]

Marc uses Safelite, and I followed his recommendation. But, I purchased my own rubber, and I ended up re-using the subframe OE; the ones they had provided were not correct (for some reason).

I went to their shop as they had a guy there familiar with the C4 windshield replacement. Took about an hour or so. and I'm very happy with the glass.
I have an appointment with Safelite on Monday to get rid of this windshield :)

This is number 72 one of the first 1990s built :cheers:
I also have the last one sold to public (#3032) and it has no windshield issues.

This will be BEFORE and AFTER photos Monday :D

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite13/f02ffc9f-6db6-46ad-9ae1-890138857c47.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite16/187db324-1b19-41a3-988a-cc01f6c860bd.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite16/602612b5-d9ac-46af-9bd2-1084548db2e3.jpg

[edram454]

i just had my windshield replaced due to a crack developed under someones care and I must say it is much easier to see out of it. I had a very good original windshield but the little nicks over time accumulate and make a difference. there are two companies that de practically all the glass work down south, one is safelite and the other one is charlies auto glass. the key is the technician and his experience doing many cars especially c4 corvettes. my tech was a pro and i cant even tell the windshield area was apart. the new windshield has a nice shaded tint and is crystal clear. I am sad to lose my original windshield through no fault of mine but I am happy at the cleaner look of my car.

ed ramos #3028

[Dynomite]

Have to replace windshield and was going with Safelite. They just called me and said they have to replace the rubber or molding. I guess they get it from GM or dealer. Do you guys provide your own molding or rubber? Where do you get it?
Which is it exactly that has to be replaced?

I just sent an e-mail to Marc to see how he does it as he has experience with Safelite. The Safelite local guy seemed to know what he is talking about and has replaced windshields on corvettes before.

[secondchance]

Have to replace windshield and was going with Safelite. They just called me and said they have to replace the rubber or molding. I guess they get it from GM or dealer. Do you guys provide your own molding or rubber? Where do you get it?
Which is it exactly that has to be replaced?

I just sent an e-mail to Marc to see how he does it as he has experience with Safelite. The Safelite local guy seemed to know what he is talking about and has replaced windshields on corvettes before.

Cliff,

Weatherstrip has to be removed first. 90% chance the weatherstrip will break apart as you are removing. Although there may be good quality aftermarket weatherstrip, I have not yet seen one - stay with OEM. Call Chevrolet dealer. You might still get lucky.

Once weatherstrip has been removed, driver side and passenger side powder coated aluminum mouldings have to be removed. These are two pieces (each side) sheet metal screwed with double sided tape in between. I don't trust anyone to remove these pieces without destroying them. I use a long retractable razor (box cutter) to separate top moulding ("L" section visiable from the outside ) from the bottom piece. Once removed, another set of screws attaching the inner piece to the "A" pillar is exposed. Removal of these screws allows removal of the inner piece. Once side mouldings are removed, you can un-screw and remove the top piece.
These are delicate procedure and recommend that you take your time and remove unless the window installer has experience working on C4 window.
These aluminum trim/mouldings were very expensive even when C4 Corvettes were in production. I am not sure if they are still available.

[Dynomite]

Cliff,

Weatherstrip has to be removed first. 90% chance the weatherstrip will break apart as you are removing. Although there may be good quality aftermarket weatherstrip, I have not yet seen one - stay with OEM. Call Chevrolet dealer. You might still get lucky.

Once weatherstrip has been removed, driver side and passenger side powder coated aluminum mouldings have to be removed. These are two pieces (each side) sheet metal screwed with double sided tape in between. I don't trust anyone to remove these pieces without destroying them. I use a long retractable razor (box cutter) to separate top moulding ("L" section visiable from the outside ) from the bottom piece. Once removed, another set of screws attaching the inner piece to the "A" pillar is exposed. Removal of these screws allows removal of the inner piece. Once side mouldings are removed, you can un-screw and remove the top piece.
These are delicate procedure and recommend that you take your time and remove unless the window installer has experience working on C4 window.
These aluminum trim/mouldings were very expensive even when C4 Corvettes were in production. I am not sure if they are still available.

Thank you for the information :handshak:

[RussMcB]

Thank you for the information :handshak:Agreed! Great stuff.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I have an appointment with Safelite on Monday to get rid of this windshield :)

This is number 72 one of the first 1990s built :cheers:
I also have the last one sold to public (#3032) and it has no windshield issues.

This will be BEFORE and AFTER photos Monday :D

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite13/f02ffc9f-6db6-46ad-9ae1-890138857c47.jpg

Hey Cliff,

That one does look pretty bad or it might just be the angle. Did you find a good replacement?

Did you see this: http://www.zr1windshield.com/

I convinced my insurance that it was a safety hazard and they are covering the replacement. I got really lucky.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Cliff,

Weatherstrip has to be removed first. 90% chance the weatherstrip will break apart as you are removing. Although there may be good quality aftermarket weatherstrip, I have not yet seen one - stay with OEM. Call Chevrolet dealer. You might still get lucky.

Once weatherstrip has been removed, driver side and passenger side powder coated aluminum mouldings have to be removed. These are two pieces (each side) sheet metal screwed with double sided tape in between. I don't trust anyone to remove these pieces without destroying them. I use a long retractable razor (box cutter) to separate top moulding ("L" section visiable from the outside ) from the bottom piece. Once removed, another set of screws attaching the inner piece to the "A" pillar is exposed. Removal of these screws allows removal of the inner piece. Once side mouldings are removed, you can un-screw and remove the top piece.
These are delicate procedure and recommend that you take your time and remove unless the window installer has experience working on C4 window.
These aluminum trim/mouldings were very expensive even when C4 Corvettes were in production. I am not sure if they are still available.

Yun,

Thanks for the details. I'm printing this info and taking it to the installer that I'm using. Better if they know up front and I'll be there to ensure. Yeah, the original, good OEM weatherstrip is like finding a Unicorn. I paid through my nose, but lucked out with some help to find one. :cheers:

[Dynomite]

Yun,

Thanks for the details. I'm printing this info and taking it to the installer that I'm using. Better if they know up front and I'll be there to ensure. Yeah, the original, good OEM weatherstrip is like finding a Unicorn. I paid through my nose, but lucked out with some help to find one.

My windshield is really that bad. Did you find an original windshield or a standard C4 replacement like they install at Safelite?
I am assuming the Safelite standard windshield is tinted but without the radar box opening.

The guys at Safelite here say they will not warranty if I provide the weatherstrip so I am waiting on an estimate for the rubber they are trying to get from a dealer.

Yep...I copied the details provided by secondchance onto my IPhone for the installer to see before he does the job. If the installer is familiar with that information I will go for it. That is great information and linked that post in -Solutions- (7th post under EXTERIOR).
Windshield Removal TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=236323)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

My windshield is really that bad. Did you find an original windshield or a standard C4 replacement like they install at Safelite?
I am assuming the Safelite standard windshield is tinted but without the radar box opening.

The guys at Safelite here say they will not warranty if I provide the weatherstrip so I am waiting on an estimate for the rubber they are trying to get from a dealer.

Yep...I copied the details provided by secondchance onto my IPhone for the installer to see before he does the job. If the installer is familiar with that information I will go for it. That is great information and linked that post in -Solutions- (7th post under EXTERIOR).
Windshield Removal TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=236323)

Cliff,
I'm trying for an original reproduction (not LOF); if not, I will end up with the standard C4 windshield for $212. The guy I am dealing with is very knowledgeable and was sharing the difference with all the windshield brands out there. Most are from China, but a few are not and better quality. Not sure what Safelite and they would not say the brand; staying away from them (the ones over here anyway). I had all the info written down and called or went to so many shops until I got dizzy. Best wishes.

[Dynomite]

I got it at Corvette Rubber. However, I'd suggest, instead you check with someone that has used .Wilcox as CR is slow to respond (customer service was horrible). Marc might have a good idea too.
Marc says the weather strip that goes from the top of the door to the other side top of the door is needed. Safelite in most areas uses a Chinese weatherstrip which is grey, rather than black in color. I might try Corvette Rubber or one other purty good source that has black rubber ready to ship.

Cliff,
I'm trying for an original reproduction (not LOF); if not, I will end up with the standard C4 windshield for $212. The guy I am dealing with is very knowledgeable and was sharing the difference with all the windshield brands out there. Most are from China, but a few are not and better quality. Not sure what Safelite and they would not say the brand; staying away from them (the ones over here anyway). I had all the info written down and called or went to so many shops until I got dizzy. Best wishes.

Safelite is a bit tricky to deal with as they insist that they use the rubber they find from a dealer (something about warranty) which they should have known there is no such rubber from GM any more. I have not heard back from Safelite so I am sure they are finding that out. I do not want some grey rubber from China. I am going with a guy I have been dealing with (not LOF). This Safelite guy and the warranty stuff makes me dizzy ;)

Happy New Year Craig and everyone looking at this thread :cheers:

[secondchance]

I remembered I had stashed a set of windshield moulding just in case. So, I dug up my stash and wanted to clear up removal/install procedure since I remembered what I wrote earlier may be wrong:

http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu303/byongyun/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswjgmmeqe.jpeg (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswjgmmeqe.jpeg.html)
Above is the driver side side mouldings. Piece on the left (sorry the image is upside down...) is the first piece you will be removal after the weatherstrip is removed (we'll call it channel strip since this piece is shaped as channel to receive weather strip). Piece on the right is the trim piece.

http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu303/byongyun/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvjd8zqqc.jpeg (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvjd8zqqc.jpeg.html)
Above is the back side of the trim piece. Notice vinyl strip? I call his flashing since this flexiable vinyl strip is what keeps the water out.

Separation of channel strip from trim piece is difficult because factory used double sided tape to hold the two before screwing. Also, if you want to truly maintain OEM look, careful removal of the trim piece is necessary not to destroy vinyl flashing.

http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu303/byongyun/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps9dnxlgtq.jpeg (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps9dnxlgtq.jpeg.html)
Above is the top piece (two pieces of powder coated aluminum rivetted together) with vinyl strip to keep the water out. I believe this piece is under the side trim piece but I may be wrong. I will edit after I take a look at my car later. Once again, careful removal is necessary to avoid any damage to the vinyl strip (flashing).

When reassembling, if NCRS level reinstall is desired, use of double stick 3M tape is the only way to achieve correct look.
I use double stick tape to attach vinyl pieces on the edge of the windshield and "A" pillar and roof structure first followed by side trim mouldings. Another layer of double stick tape is applied to the side trim mouldings followed by side channel pieces. I believe top trim/channel piece goes on top.
Problem of achieving OEM look is water infiltration may be an issue due to reusing aged vinyl trim and make shift use of double stick tape.

If this install is for the daily driver, I would not use vinyl trim and after the mouldings are installed, use masking take along the edge of trim moulding and windshield and fill the gap with silicone or black urethane caulking.

Lastly, I recommend not to glue the new weather strip to the channel moulding. Weatherstrip holds fine without glue and compression from the top keeps water from entering. Only place to worry over water coming in is at two top corners between the weatherstrip and the trim moulding. I use masking tape to control the edge of silicone caulking and fill the gap after installing the top.

I will add photo later.

[Dynomite]

Exactly the instructions I was looking for :handshak:

I assume you remove the windshield after all the moldings are removed? Is it stuck so you push the windshield out from inside?

Oh......How did you come by the extra moldings?

I have a set of standard 1990 (L98) front window moldings and assume those moldings are installed the same and are the same as window moldings on a ZR-1? I see exactly what you are saying about the double back tape keeping the two side pieces together and hiding three screws under the double back tape. The top molding appears to not have the hidden screws.

On the side moldings there are 4 screws for the top powder coated molding not necessarily the same location on each molding. The inner piece (after cutting the double back tape) has 3 screws not necessarily the same location on each molding from car to car. The Top piece has one set of screws and they are located the same on each top piece from car to car?

Happy New Year Yun and everyone looking at this thread :cheers:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Safelite is a bit tricky to deal with as they insist that they use the rubber they find from a dealer (something about warranty) which they should have known there is no such rubber from GM any more. I have not heard back from Safelite so I am sure they are finding that out. I do not want some grey rubber from China. I am going with a guy I have been dealing with (not LOF). This Safelite guy and the warranty stuff makes me dizzy ;)

Happy New Year Craig and everyone looking at this thread :cheers:

Cliff,
The guy that I am using used to work for Safelite and now has his own business. He said that if I don't decide to use him, there is a guy from Safelite that he would recommend that is just as good as him and been in the business for over 20 years and did a bunch of C4 windshields. I'm sticking with this guy after visiting him several times and seeing how meticulous he works, and how clean his shop is. I don't want the mobile job at work site or in my garage.

To answer your question before edit, I tried to have this guy sell to other members that I knew were looking for the GM NOS stuff. This shop had a bunch he bought from GM years ago (around 60 sets), but has only a few left. Sorry, he would not let me refer him and said he has to keep the remaining few for his actual customers. I had to respect that and he would not sell more than one knowing more valuable than gold (very expensive if you find it). I hope you find an NOS one, but even new and sealed there might be cracks and wrinkles I am told. My guy said don't open as my original is very nice and he thinks he can save it; I am told he will not be able to no matter how good he is or takes his time.

Happy New Year and best wishes!:handshak:

By the way, I might have some good news about your code tool and late model adapter. I have to confirm first.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I remembered I had stashed a set of windshield moulding just in case. So, I dug up my stash and wanted to clear up removal/install procedure since I remembered what I wrote earlier may be wrong:

[/URL]
Above is the driver side side mouldings. Piece on the left (sorry the image is upside down...) is the first piece you will be removal after the weatherstrip is removed (we'll call it channel strip since this piece is shaped as channel to receive weather strip). Piece on the right is the trim piece.

[URL="http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvjd8zqqc.jpeg.html"] (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswjgmmeqe.jpeg.html)
Above is the back side of the trim piece. Notice vinyl strip? I call his flashing since this flexiable vinyl strip is what keeps the water out.

Separation of channel strip from trim piece is difficult because factory used double sided tape to hold the two before screwing. Also, if you want to truly maintain OEM look, careful removal of the trim piece is necessary not to destroy vinyl flashing.

Above is the top piece (two pieces of powder coated aluminum rivetted together) with vinyl strip to keep the water out. I believe this piece is under the side trim piece but I may be wrong. I will edit after I take a look at my car later. Once again, careful removal is necessary to avoid any damage to the vinyl strip (flashing).

When reassembling, if NCRS level reinstall is desired, use of double stick 3M tape is the only way to achieve correct look.
I use double stick tape to attach vinyl pieces on the edge of the windshield and "A" pillar and roof structure first followed by side trim mouldings. Another layer of double stick tape is applied to the side trim mouldings followed by side channel pieces. I believe top trim/channel piece goes on top.
Problem of achieving OEM look is water infiltration may be an issue due to reusing aged vinyl trim and make shift use of double stick tape.

If this install is for the daily driver, I would not use vinyl trim and after the mouldings are installed, use masking take along the edge of trim moulding and windshield and fill the gap with silicone or black urethane caulking.

Lastly, I recommend not to glue the new weather strip to the channel moulding. Weatherstrip holds fine without glue and compression from the top keeps water from entering. Only place to worry over water coming in is at two top corners between the weatherstrip and the trim moulding. I use masking tape to control the edge of silicone caulking and fill the gap after installing the top.

I will add photo later.

Yun,
As always, thanks for sharing so much detail of your experience with this issue. Every little bit of information helps.

[secondchance]

I assume you remove the windshield after all the moldings are removed? Is it stuck so you push the windshield out from inside?


Ha, ha... Normally I remove the weatherstrip and mouldings, take the car to the auto glass shop, have them remove and replace the windshield.


Oh......How did you come by the extra moldings?


I came by a regular 86 Corvette that got bar-b-q'd. Went to his house and removed all the mouldings.


I have a set of standard 1990 (L98) front window moldings and assume those moldings are installed the same and are the same as window moldings on a ZR-1? I see exactly what you are saying about the double back tape keeping the two side pieces together and hiding three screws under the double back tape. The top molding appears to not have the hidden screws.

On the side moldings there are 4 screws for the top powder coated molding not necessarily the same location on each molding. The inner piece (after cutting the double back tape) has 3 screws not necessarily the same location on each molding from car to car. The Top piece has one set of screws and they are located the same on each top piece from car to car?


All C4 windshield mouldings, I believe, are the same. However, factory assembly sequence seemed to have been glue trim moulding to the A pillars (and header), take a drill and drill thru the trim mouldings, followed by screw. Due to this sequence, screw holes typically don't match from car to another car. Another good reason to be extra patient and save the original mouldings.

As for the top piece, whether it can be transferred from another car without re-drilling screw holes, I am not sure. You are correct, there are no hidden screws.

Over the years (93, 2012, 2014 and 2015) I messed with 4 ZR-1 (91, 94, 90 and finally a 95) window mouldings. Seems to be getting better at it...

When I am over this rush at work, I will take time and, perhaps, start a new post with pics and more detailed information.

Happy new Year to you all also!:cheers:

[Dynomite]

By the way, I might have some good news about your code tool and late model adapter. I have to confirm first.
I just used the ALDL Code Reader on my 1990 (L98). Works perfectly.
That tool is soooooo handy. Now to find a couple of those plastic covers for the ALDL Connector under the Drivers side panel :cheers:

Back to Windshields.....I got something going on and will post later if it works out :p

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I just used the ALDL Code Reader on my 1990 (L98). Works perfectly.
That tool is soooooo handy. Now to find a couple of those plastic covers for the ALDL Connector under the Drivers side panel :cheers:

Back to Windshields.....I got something going on and will post later if it works out :p

I should have time this weekend to play with it on the 95. I was busy cleaning the 95 MY lumbar pump motor and it works like a champ now; but I still want to become one with the car in a Corbeau A4 after sitting in one yesterday.

Can't want to hear your secrets.....:censored:

[Dynomite]

I should have time this weekend to play with it on the 95. I was busy cleaning the 95 MY lumbar pump motor and it works like a champ now; but I still want to become one with the car in a Corbeau A4 after sitting in one yesterday.

Can't want to hear your secrets.....:censored:

I was soooo close to making an offer on the Red 95 and am still thinking if it is not sold. It would be fun to do some modifications on a 95.
So....how do you like the 95 compared to a 91 or a 90?

I do know it is a lot of fun keeping the LT5 stock after a Plenum Removal to clean up Injectors, Starter, Vacuum System. The LT5s are soooooo reliable after fixing a few minor issues. One thing I do is thread and screw in an Allen Head Aluminum Plug in the Injector Housing TB Coolant path leaving the outside appear stock WITHOUT Hose Clamps on those TB Coolant hoses. And I add one HIDDEN Plug in the return of that TB Coolant to the coolant reservoir. And Carter Bling...........And Differential Drain Plug Installation.....And....Darn....here we go again but I still call them stock :sign10:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I was soooo close to making an offer on the Red 95 and am still thinking if it is not sold. It would be fun to do some modifications on a 95.
So....how do you like the 95 compared to a 91 or a 90?

I do know it is a lot of fun keeping the LT5 stock after a Plenum Removal to clean up Injectors, Starter, Vacuum System. The LT5s are soooooo reliable after fixing a few minor issues. One thing I do is thread and screw in an Allen Head Aluminum Plug in the Injector Housing TB Coolant path leaving the outside appear stock WITHOUT Hose Clamps on those TB Coolant hoses. And I add one HIDDEN Plug in the return of that TB Coolant to the coolant reservoir. And Carter Bling...........And Differential Drain Plug Installation.....And....Darn....here we go again but I still call them stock :sign10:

Cliff,
You put me on the spot, but I'll bite. You know I tell it like it is and rarely care about being politically correct. Here is my experience having only owned a 90 and a 91. I LOVE the (or this) 95 and all the improvements made over the years. This car is a totally different car by ride and feel. Different strokes for different folks, but there is no way I'm going back to the early years. If I bought another, it would definitely be late model. Difficult to explain, but drive the 95 (a good one; not a thrashed one) and see if you feel the same. But it goes a little beyond as I was inspecting the various improvements over the years while tinkering, and I like the last year a LOT. :dancing

I meant your secrets about your windshield, but cool thoughts to consider....

:cheers:

[Dynomite]

Cliff,
You put me on the spot, but I'll bite. You know I tell it like it is and rarely care about being politically correct. Here is my experience having only owned a 90 and a 91. I LOVE the (or this) 95 and all the improvements made over the years. This car is a totally different car by ride and feel. Different strokes for different folks, but there is no way I'm going back to the early years. If I bought another, it would definitely be late model. Difficult to explain, but drive the 95 (a good one; not a thrashed one) and see if you feel the same. But it goes a little beyond as I was inspecting the various improvements over the years while tinkering, and I like the last year a LOT. :dancing

I meant your secrets about your windshield, but cool thoughts to consider....

:cheers:

I know your were talking windshield......and I definitely will try a windshield install myself. Am not positive about popping the old windshield out after all the molding is removed just yet. I do not want glass all over the inside :)

Thanks for the information on the 95 as I have not a clue never looked at one and never driven one. I do have a very nice 95 crate engine :cheers:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I know your were talking windshield......and I definitely will try a windshield install myself. Am not positive about popping the old windshield out after all the molding is removed just yet. I do not want glass all over the inside :)

Thanks for the information on the 95 as I have not a clue never looked at one and never driven one. I do have a very nice 95 crate engine :cheers:

I hear you on that about the windshield. I'm going to leave mine to a pro. Best wishes on that 95. I wish I could have a crate motor, but no room and to too much moving around the world yet. :cheers:

[Dynomite]

Marc uses Safelite, and I followed his recommendation. But, I purchased my own rubber, and I ended up re-using the subframe OE; the ones they had provided were not correct (for some reason).

I went to their shop as they had a guy there familiar with the C4 windshield replacement. Took about an hour or so. and I'm very happy with the glass.
Safelite Just installed a Windshield and Weather stripping in a 1990 ZR-1 for $150. I furnished the Windshield and Weather Stripping :)

This is number 72 one of the first 1990s built.
I also have the last 1990 ZR-1 sold to public (#3032) and it has no windshield issues.

This is BEFORE and AFTER photos :D

Safelite did a Perfect Job :thumbsup:

I got the Windshield and Weather Stripping from ZZZZZR1 (Dave) and have to say the Windshield is perfect in every way as is the Weather Stripping. Safelite was pleasantly surprised how good this Windshield Installation ended ....and they have done other Windshield Installations on Corvettes with Windshields and Weather Stripping they have provided themselves (This was the best they had seen).

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite13/f02ffc9f-6db6-46ad-9ae1-890138857c47.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite16/187db324-1b19-41a3-988a-cc01f6c860bd.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite16/4858cbae-2a7e-4b99-acec-0d3111587e02.jpg

Replacing the Windshield and Wiper Motor (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564075)

[Racinfan83]

Just for future reference - what is the difference between the Safelite weatherstripping and what you bought? (other then you bought oem or similar)
Just curious if you HAVE to buy correct ZR-1 weatherstrip or if Safelite's will work without issues?

[edram454]

fyi... I had my windshield replaced after the car suffered an unfortunate accident at the repair shop it was at. I chose not to go with a expensive original glass so I went with a regular c4 windshield. The guy that installed it had worked for Charlie's auto glass here in South Florida, who is very well known down here, and he had done many c4 installations.

He brought his own weatherstripping and installed it flawlessly. My windshield has never looked better. I had no delamination on my original glass but it had 25 years of wear a a few tiny chips etc.. I was crushed at first but now I am delighted with the results. My windshield pieces came off the car looking excellent. For some reason there was discoloring or rust of any kind on any of the take off parts. I can see again like never before in this car. I am going to put clear uv tint on all windows to keep the car cool inside in the hot florida weather. This was all covered by my insurance company since it is a law here in Florida that they cover all windshield damages free of charge.

ed ramos #3028

[Dynomite]

Just for future reference - what is the difference between the Safelite weatherstripping and what you bought? (other then you bought oem or similar)
Just curious if you HAVE to buy correct ZR-1 weatherstrip or if Safelite's will work without issues?

Marc says the weather strip that goes from the top of the door to the other side top of the door is needed (I think Marc was talking about weather strip from the bottom of the windshield on each side up each side and across the top of the windshield being one piece). Safelite in most areas uses a Chinese weatherstrip which is grey, rather than black in color. The Weather Strip I furnished was perfect although it was a bit grey in color...that is all I know for sure :p

[Z51JEFF]

Poor prep? It's a ZR1 ... the flagship American sports car! :censored:

Poor prep? I've got finger prints in the lamination sheets.

[Fully Vetted]

So, here's my windshield story as of today. I have the glass and the WS (same source as Cliff). Safelite refuses to work on the car if it's pre '97. I think it's because they know the moldings are unavailable and don't want the liability of ruining mine. Either way, if they don't want to work on it then I don't want them working on it. So, I called Extreme Auto Glass Pros here in Dallas. Apparently, they do a lot of work for Richard Rawlings and Gas Monkey Garage so at least they're use to working on custom cars and builds. The best part is the installer actually owns a '90 ZR-1 and is well aware of the challenges of replacing the windshield. His words were, "They are not fun to do but I know how to do them." Because of the extra time involved they are going to charge me a little over $400. That's a lot of money considering I'm supplying all the parts. But, I was running out of options (Binswanger Glass also refused to work on the car. And they do a lot of classic cars) and if he truly knows what he's doing it's money well spent. He will be here tomorrow morning and has blocked off the entire morning for this install.

I'll update after the work is complete. Cross your fingers, say a prayer....do whatever you do. I need this to work.

[ghlkal]

if he truly knows what he's doing it's money well spent.


Yup. I agree, you don't want safelite working on it if they don't want to. I had them replace my windshield and the owner did the install since he was the expert. He warned me that if they messed up the molding, it couldn't be replaced. He did do a good job though and I'm happy with the new glass.

Good luck

[dredgeguy]

So, here's my windshield story as of today. I have the glass and the WS (same source as Cliff). Safelite refuses to work on the car if it's pre '97. I think it's because they know the moldings are unavailable and don't want the liability of ruining mine. Either way, if they don't want to work on it then I don't want them working on it. So, I called Extreme Auto Glass Pros here in Dallas. Apparently, they do a lot of work for Richard Rawlings and Gas Monkey Garage so at least they're use to working on custom cars and builds. The best part is the installer actually owns a '90 ZR-1 and is well aware of the challenges of replacing the windshield. His words were, "They are not fun to do but I know how to do them." Because of the extra time involved they are going to charge me a little over $400. That's a lot of money considering I'm supplying all the parts. But, I was running out of options (Binswanger Glass also refused to work on the car. And they do a lot of classic cars) and if he truly knows what he's doing it's money well spent. He will be here tomorrow morning and has blocked off the entire morning for this install.

I'll update after the work is complete. Cross your fingers, say a prayer....do whatever you do. I need this to work.

Good luck Dave. I went through this with Safelite and State Farm this year. Took 2 months before State Farm understood that our windshields were different from standard C4's. After many photos and emails/heated phone calls, we had a meeting of the minds. Then they stated that since I was requesting OEM factory glass, I would be responsible for the difference between OEM and aftermarket (several hundred $ vs $2000). I corrected them and said that the windshield and WS from ZR1 windshields was not OEM, that was no longer available but it was the only windshield to meet OEM specs which is what they are obligated to provide. So my argument of this windshield is not OEM, it is aftermarket but meets OEM specs was the turning point. Then came the fact that ZR1 Windshield is not an approved vendor. State Farm said to get an invoice, they would pay me for the materials, I could pay ZR1 Winshields and State Farm would pay Safelite for the install. So that is what we did. ZR1 windshield delivered the glass and WS to Safelite, I was there and when Safelite accepted the materials in good condition, I signed over the State Farm check to ZR1 windshields. Safelite then did the install in about 4 hours and did a great job. Safelite provided a new WS and top plate but State Farm had purchased the WS from ZR1 windshields so now Wazoo has an extra one in stock. We did not use the new top panal as it was shinny black and my original was in good condition and it matched the rest of the trim which was not shinny. Overall I am very pleased with the quality of glass and WS as well as the install. Like I said, it was a battle but if you hold your ground with the insurance company, things will work out. Safelite also did not want to do the install at first but after I visited them and found one of their guys very experienced with C4's, they said if State Farm was good with another vendor providing the materials, they would be good as well provided State Farm paid them directly. All good in the end.

[Z51JEFF]

As I've stated in posts from the past,the trim can be reused if it's removed correctly. It's aluminum so it bends really easy.

[Fully Vetted]

Install is complete and it is awesome. This guy was an absolute perfectionist. Took him about 5 hours and he let me help him. Explained a lot of stuff. He had blocked off the whole day and was in no hurry. Anybody in the Dallas area that needs their windshield replaced PM me and I'll get you his number. He actually was able to save the old windshield which apparently is not easy to do with a C4. I'll probably be selling it soon if somebody needs an original WS with minimal delam. Anyway, can't wait to get it out tomorrow.

[5ABI VT]

That is great to hear ! I'm replacing mine as soon as I can find someone local . Sucks to be in Canada :/

[Dynomite]

So, here's my windshield story as of today. I have the glass and the WS (same source as Cliff). Safelite refuses to work on the car if it's pre '97. I think it's because they know the moldings are unavailable and don't want the liability of ruining mine. Either way, if they don't want to work on it then I don't want them working on it. So, I called Extreme Auto Glass Pros here in Dallas. Apparently, they do a lot of work for Richard Rawlings and Gas Monkey Garage so at least they're use to working on custom cars and builds. The best part is the installer actually owns a '90 ZR-1 and is well aware of the challenges of replacing the windshield. His words were, "They are not fun to do but I know how to do them." Because of the extra time involved they are going to charge me a little over $400. That's a lot of money considering I'm supplying all the parts. But, I was running out of options (Binswanger Glass also refused to work on the car. And they do a lot of classic cars) and if he truly knows what he's doing it's money well spent. He will be here tomorrow morning and has blocked off the entire morning for this install.

I'll update after the work is complete. Cross your fingers, say a prayer....do whatever you do. I need this to work.


I got the great moldings from the same source as the windshield. I brought the moldings and windshield to Safelite and talked them into installing windshield (I specifically said I did not need a warranty since I was furnishing the molding as well as the windshield). One of the Safelite guys had done several C4s before and knew all about the windshield frame being two pieces on each side (I had detailed instructions printed out but he said he did not need that). Safelite did the install for $150 as I recall and did a perfect job.

Replacing the Windshield and Wiper Motor (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564075)

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Personally, I has no issues at all when I did the blue car. I removed original moldings and had them powder coated. Installing a C4 windshield is not rocket science, IMO. Pretty straight forward. Just have your trim restored prior to the install by a professional unless you are experienced.

[Fully Vetted]

It's straight forward but it's not fast. Typical windshield can be done in an hour out in the parking lot. This one took about 4 hours. They used gallons of glue it seemed like. Plus, he was being careful to save my old windshield and of course reuse the moldings. It's just time consuming.

[Paul Workman]

I agree, Brett. I had Safelite do the WS on the Equinox and my F150 first to get a feel for quality and workmanship before they did the Z. And, also I saw one of their WS on another Z in Marc's shop and was quite impressed with it.

The price wasn't the first concern initially, but after seeing the quality first-hand, then the price savings came "into focus", so to speak.

Just my opinion, but to me the perceived value of the uniqueness of an "original" laminated ZR-1 WS is practically waaaay over stated; out weighed by the crystal clarity and optical quality which is largely lost due to the lamination; and then the cost savings as icing on the cake.

YMMV.

[Fully Vetted]

Plus, they now have clear UV laminate for windshields that will do the same thing for a lot less money. Glass guy told me that. Oh, well. Next time...

[Racinfan83]

Plus, they now have clear UV laminate for windshields that will do the same thing for a lot less money. Glass guy told me that. Oh, well. Next time...

Ok so here is an off the wall question. I have found that my phone gps will not work thru the factory windshield. I have to hold the phone right next to the driver side window to get it to work. Wonder if it is the same issue with the clear UV laminate???

And Paul Workman did you keep that guy's number for future reference? And did they supply all parts or did you?

[ZR1North]

That is great to hear ! I'm replacing mine as soon as I can find someone local . Sucks to be in Canada :/

I live in Sarnia and work in Ann Arbor, so I took the Zee to a Safelite shop in Ann Arbor and had a fantastic experience. The tech was experienced and took about 4 hours; it might be worth the drive on a nice summer day. They charged me the standard $150 despite the four-to-five hour install time. It took a bit of convincing at their appointment call center to get the appt. on their schedule, but once I got beyond that, it was a 10 out of 10.