Service Ride Control light reset

[Billy Mild]

This is the last warning light I have to deal with on my ZR-1. A while back there were no codes. I looked at all the actuators on top of the shocks. They appear to all work when the key is turned. Currently I am getting a code for the passenger side actuator. I am using the ground out method to pull codes. I checked this actuator and the driver side up front and they both appear to move. I also made sure both knobs turn freely and they do.

I tried to ground out the pins to reset the code, but was unsuccessful. May not have the proper timing. I unplugged the battery to see if that would reset the light, and it did not. Any suggestions? Where are the actuators for the rear shocks?

[RussMcB]

Not sure if this will help much, but some thoughts:

I was able to reset mine with a paperclip last month. I do remember it took a few tries. Not sure why. It was a bit frustrating, but then it worked and I moved on.

Perhaps you can swap the actuators from side to side and see if you get the same or a different code. That might tell you if the problem is with the passenger actuator or passenger shock.

The rear actuators are on top of the shocks (like in the front). You need to remove the rear shocks to access them. Removal is pretty easy. One big nut on the bottom and two (12mm?) bolts on top.

My problem was I didn't have the top rubber mounts squished the right amount, so the shock rod was not at the right height to mate with the actuator. I found an article by Hib on the internet that helped me get it right.

[Billy Mild]

Not sure if this will help much, but some thoughts:

I was able to reset mine with a paperclip last month. I do remember it took a few tries. Not sure why. It was a bit frustrating, but then it worked and I moved on.

Perhaps you can swap the actuators from side to side and see if you get the same or a different code. That might tell you if the problem is with the passenger actuator or passenger shock.

The rear actuators are on top of the shocks (like in the front). You need to remove the rear shocks to access them. Removal is pretty easy. One big nut on the bottom and two (12mm?) bolts on top.

My problem was I didn't have the top rubber mounts squished the right amount, so the shock rod was not at the right height to mate with the actuator. I found an article by Hib on the internet that helped me get it right.

Where was the Hib article at?

[Billy Mild]

Will a code get thrown if the shock is bad?

[RussMcB]

Where was the Hib article at?http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/c4/fx3/

Will a code get thrown if the shock is bad?My guess is it would only throw a code if the actuator couldn't rotate the rod as expected.

The article linked above is a pretty good write-up of how the system works.

[Kevin]

if you start the car 3 or 4 times without driving it, it will set a code

[Billy Mild]

I have taken the top front actuators off the shocks. Both of them move like they should.

I did find a broken shock gear on top of my right shock today.
http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab123/billymild/zr1/IMG_20150616_183537_zpsl0bdtc6v.jpg

So that explains why my car is through a code 32, but not the code 31. What are my next steps to clearing these codes or finding the issue?

The FSM just says to replace the suspect actuator. http://www.captainzcnc.com/index.html So I guess a rebuild is in order for the front actuators, and 1 new shock gear?

[RussMcB]

If the FSM suspects an LF actuator, I'd try swapping the front pair of actuators from side to side to see if the code changes to 31.

I might also try swapping the front shocks to see if that made a difference. Those two steps should tell you if the shocks or actuators are all good or not.

Are you able to clear the codes in between steps so you know you are not reading old history?

[Billy Mild]

So my car is throwing code 31 and 32. I get the why code 32 is being thrown right now since the gear is broken and doesn't limit how far the actuator will go.

I have tried to reset the codes by unplugging the battery overnight. That didn't help clear the service ride control light. I may try swapping the actuators. I did check to make sure when the key is cycled that the actuators moved and they do currently.

I will replace the shock gear and hope for the best. Any suggestions on how to time the grounding of the plug to reset the SRC light.

[mike100]

The service ride control light will set if you have more than 3 engine starts and no vehicle VSS (speed signal from transducer in the trans). You have to drive the car (even if up on jacks) like 4 mph to clear that condition.

[Billy Mild]

The service ride control light will set if you have more than 3 engine starts and no vehicle VSS (speed signal from transducer in the trans). You have to drive the car (even if up on jacks) like 4 mph to clear that condition.

The light stayed on after unplugging the battery for the entire night.

[Billy Mild]

I just swapped the actuators and tried to reset the light. I am pretty sure I am doing this wrong.

When I do the reset sequence sometimes the light will go off for 1 second then come right back on. Does that mean the issue is still present or the sequence is off?

[Billy Mild]

http://www.ajusa.com/

Has anyone used them for suspension parts?

They are $100 cheaper for a set of 4 shocks.

[RussMcB]

Yes. That's where I recently bought mine and they were the best prices I found. Shipping was timely, IIRC.

Here's where I learned about them: http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24277&highlight=ajusa

[dredgeguy]

http://www.ajusa.com/

Has anyone used them for suspension parts?

They are $100 cheaper for a set of 4 shocks.

I purchased 4 shocks from them last month and Wazoo installed last weekend. Paid $737.24 with free shipping. Currently have the Service Ride Control light on but understand that it takes some time for the system to relearn.

[Billy Mild]

Once again I had the car up on jackstands, and unplugged the battery for multiple days. Could it be possible that my actuators are not in the right position on top of the shocks?

Any suggestions?

[Billy Mild]

I got Cliffs tester yesterday and fired it up. I cleared the codes, but one still remains. Code 14. Right front out of time. Does that mean the actuator is bad?