Changing Back 2 spark plugs

[Johnny5]

Ok so I changed 6 spark plugs easily but I can not seem to get my socket extension in the hole to get the back 2 plugs by the firewall. How do you guys change the back 2? (driver and passenger side closest to firewall)

[RussMcB]

A suggestion that worked for me was to use two 3/8" universals connected to each other.

Once loose, it's often handy to use a hose (about fuel line size) to screw plugs in and out by hand.

(You probably already know this, but ...) When you put the new ones in, use anti-seize and don't torque too tight.

[We Gone]

If you did not know the AC box on a ZR-1 has a section that is removable for access to that last plug. I've always done as Russ suggested a wrap of duct tape around the swivels will keep then together.

[Johnny5]

Thanks guys. I will let you know how it goes.

[mike100]

Two extensions put together, a magnet, good rubber boot in the sparkplug socket, a 15 degree wobble socket to angle past the a/c obstruction- or some such combination.

[Z51JEFF]

How I get the last plug out is I have a tele magnet,3 inch extension with the detent ball ground flat, swivel extention. Here's the process: Drop the plug socket in the hole, snap 2 3inch extension together with the modified extension down into the socket. Once the plug is free from the head I pull everything out of the head and use the magnet to fish out the plug. On some of the plugs I use a ratchet with a swivel head. Sounds like a lot but it works for me.

[Paul Workman]

I recommend a Craftsman sparkplug socket with an integral swivel. To it, I insert a second swivel to the integral one and then attach a short extension to that. Then I snake this apparatus down the hole and then attach my 3/8" drive breaker bar. With 1/4 turn the plug is loose enough (with anti-seize on the threads from before) to remove the breaker bar and turn it out by using my fingers to turn the end of the short extension. Easy-pleasy!

Don't forget the anti-seize on the new threads...and 12-15# torque is just plenty - don't want to strip the aluminum head!!

[XfireZ51]

Maybe someone else wants to chime in, but I stopped using anti-seize on the plugs. There was a thread about this a while ago. I found that anti-seize allows the plugs to loosen. Been using a dab of oil on the threads instead.

[QMCMSS]

My experience: First I agree with the integral swivel. Better yet I found most sockets with the rubber inside were ok for removing the plugs but were a bear to get out on 4 & 8 if the rubber inside fit snuggly. On the other plugs I had to pull the socket out with needle nose. I found a Snap On spark plug socket that uses a magnet instead of the rubber insert, it also is thin walled and has the universal, additionally the socket and swivel combined is a little bit shorter than the craftsmen without the universal. Made the whole job much easier. I just purchased my ZR1 a month or so ago so I decided a plug change was a good idea. Seven of the plugs were NGK, number 8 was another brand and much older than the others. Looks like someone just gave up on #8. Also purchased the NGK part # 3690 which is one range cooler than the stock and gapped them at 45 vice 35. This simple plug change solved the problem of a high rpm miss I was experiencing the car pulls to 7000 through all the gears now. What a simple great fix. :)

[Jim Nolan]

One thing I will add is I add a 3/4 to 1/4 step down and use my 1/4 drive ratchet to remove and install the plugs. When using a plug socket with all the attachments it drops in dead center, and if you are into proper torquing you have room.

Jim

[Billy Mild]

Maybe someone else wants to chime in, but I stopped using anti-seize on the plugs. There was a thread about this a while ago. I found that anti-seize allows the plugs to loosen. Been using a dab of oil on the threads instead.

I have been doing this for years on cars. My old 944 Turbo was an all aluminum engine as well and I never had an issue changing plugs at the 15,000 mile interval.

[Bob Eyres]

Just did that job Bill, here's what worked for me.

Swivel spark plug socket then 3/8" extender, 3" long (to get above the hole), then another swivel to work a good angle, then a longer extension so you don't break your back leaning over.

It worked for me.

[Jim Nolan]

Oops! I meant 3/8 to 1/4 stepdown.

[Hib Halverson]

Here's what you need for #8.

3/8-drive, plug socket with integral universal and either an internal magnet or sponge retainer.
3/8-drive, one-inch extension
3/8-drive universal joint.

Stick all that on a long extension. It goes easily down the plug well. With the socket on the plug, the point at which the extension swivels on the top u-joint is just above the edge of the plug well.

I use a 30-in extension and a 3/8-drive T-handle to loosen and tighten plugs on an LT5.

Also, I use taper seat plugs which interfaces with the head on the taper which is how the plug seals. I use DuPont Krytox antiseize on the plug threads only.

For plugs, for the last 15 years or so, I've used the Denso IT-22 which is a range colder than the original LT5 plug (FR-1LS).

[8cam]

Guys this isn't hard. A 3" extension and a u-joint and out it comes. Never had a problem, and at least on my 90 there is plenty of clearance. Leave the rubber washer in the socket and it will pull the plug right out.