Help locating a CCM module?

[Paul Workman]

Looking for someone at the Gathering with a line on a CCM module. Anyone?

(Steve's car needs one...chances are.)

[Demps]

I may have one from a 91 but it's [possibly] here in Vegas. Do you have a part # or visual?
Ted

[-=Jeff=-]

What year? Those are close to being year specific...

If I recall this applies if new:
90 - only
91- only
92-93 interchangeable
94-95 interchangeable

If used.. it MUST be out of the same model/optioned car So he will need one out of his year ZR-1 from another ZR-1.. If it is a 90 then it has to have the right AC (C60 OR C68) but the mileage will be wrong

What is leading you to believe the CCM is bad?

[WVZR-1]

What year? Those are close to being year specific...

If I recall this applies if new:
90 - only
91- only
92-93 interchangeable
94-95 interchangeable

If used.. it MUST be out of the same model/optioned car So he will need one out of his year ZR-1 from another ZR-1.. If it is a 90 then it has to have the right AC (C60 OR C68) but the mileage will be wrong

What is leading you to believe the CCM is bad?

I believe the only change maybe to your list would be when serviced by SPO, '94, '95 and to complete the C4 applications '96 were all different. I have absolutely no idea if for "trouble-shooting" the '94 & '95 could be swapped.

I thought there was a Ken Anderson that did ECM's and CCM's but I've never had a conversation with. I also believe that Davies offers the service. I doubt it's done "in house" but they advertise it so I'd think their vendor is likely quite reliable. If you had a known bad unit the Davies price appears quite competitive and there would likely be a warranty of some sort. I would think their service would include VIN "clear" and odometer "clear" OR perhaps they would return yours with the same information intact.

If a person was to want to use a different CCM for diagnostics it would be required to know the resistance of the ignition key of the car the CCM was removed from. You would then get a key with the correct resistance and match the mechanical cut to the car OR do a by-pass at the column base to satisfy the CCM.

[Paul Workman]

Update:

After working on Steve's NO START problem, in the end we were unable to find the problem, but all agreed that the work-around that Steve came up with was not likely to cause an issue so far as getting the car home where a final solution could be worked out.

The issue:
All of (I'll call them) "creature features" like the temp control, fan, vacuum actuators (for the defrost vents), the temp display run ALL the time, unless the A/C fuse is pulled.

The START RELAY is NOT activated as long as the A/C fuse is in place, but if it is removed, all the (above mentioned) functions quit, BUT the START relay is activated via the CCM.

Once the engine is running, the A/C fuse can be reinstalled and use of the cabin features is possible, and the engine runs normally.

However, once the engine is turned OFF, the A/C fuse has to be removed or else the "creature features" remain running, e.g., fan, temp controls, etc.

My call for a CCM from the Gathering was a hedge against the possibility the CCM ultimately being the problem - and as time was running out (already Saturday afternoon): better to have and not need it, than need it and not have it...was my thinking.

A fresh start in the morning is in the offing.

[-=Jeff=-]

WHAT YEAR?

[Paul Workman]

WHAT YEAR?

Oh...I guess that might help, huh? Just in case, it is a 1990 (for the record).

[-=Jeff=-]

So the 1990 will need one from another 90 (one year only) with all the same options, assuming it is not fresh to be programmed.

The CCM is 'buried' behind the radio, there actually is a 'door' on the driver side console side to access the CCM, although I still think the driver side hush and then metal panel behind the hush need to be removed. Then the connectors are tough to disconnect ( harder than the ECM)

I thought that I heard Ken Anderson did the CCM (As WVZR-1) mentions but I don't know for sure, I know he does ECMs.

If you get a new or VIN and ODO Clear, then you need the Tech 1/1a with the programming cartridge to set it up correctly. I have also heard it will need to be done before 100 miles ( when I had one done for my 91 dash conversion) I left the Speedo disconnected prior to programming.

I have 2 Programmed CCMs but both are 92-93. they are for LT1 cars one auto and one Manual, I don't recall the mileage in either though

[QB93Z]

After more thought on Steve's problem and some research in the FSM when I got home, I am fairly sure that the problem is not the CCM. I think the problem is in the AC Control. Something is keeping the AC on when the key is off. The CCM has to detect the AC off to allow the Engine Crank relay to energize.

Steve, I suggest removing the AC Compressor relay and then try to start the car with the 25amp AC fuse installed. Post up the results and we can research further.

The AC Compressor Relay is located under the driver's side of the dash. Remove the driver side hush panel. The AC Clutch relay is the furthest left relay. (closest to the door). See page 6E3-C10-2 of the FSM, View B, item 5. The drawing is looking at the "back" of the dash.

Jim

[Dynomite]

Update:

After working on Steve's NO START problem, in the end we were unable to find the problem, but all agreed that the work-around that Steve came up with was not likely to cause an issue so far as getting the car home where a final solution could be worked out.

The issue:
All of (I'll call them) "creature features" like the temp control, fan, vacuum actuators (for the defrost vents), the temp display run ALL the time, unless the A/C fuse is pulled.

The START RELAY is NOT activated as long as the A/C fuse is in place, but if it is removed, all the (above mentioned) functions quit, BUT the START relay is activated via the CCM.

Once the engine is running, the A/C fuse can be reinstalled and use of the cabin features is possible, and the engine runs normally.

However, once the engine is turned OFF, the A/C fuse has to be removed or else the "creature features" remain running, e.g., fan, temp controls, etc.

My call for a CCM from the Gathering was a hedge against the possibility the CCM ultimately being the problem - and as time was running out (already Saturday afternoon): better to have and not need it, than need it and not have it...was my thinking.

A fresh start in the morning is in the offing.

Make sure the ECM CHIP is Fully Installed Correctly :p
It could be in Limp Home Mode or Diagnostic Mode if not fully installed correctly.

[-=Jeff=-]

Make sure the CHIP is Fully Installed Correctly :p
It could be in Limp Home Mode or Diagnostic Mode if not fully installed correctly.
in the ECM.. there is no socketed chip in the CCM

[efnfast]

Before I dig into this too deep:
Facts:
The car won't start.
The A.C. unit stays energized with the key removed.
Pull the fuse to the AC, car starts and runs normally.
Reinstall fuse, everything ok.
Car has aftermarket stereo, everything looks ok, but no sound to speakers (unrelated?) system installed five years ago.
Aftermarket alarm/remote entry/remote windows/remote hatch.
The relay inside the drivers door to open the windows by remote has failed in the past due to water damage.
The windows currently don't work with the remote, but due with the door switch.
It was pouring rain when the problem first happened.
On the ride home, the AC went back to turning off with the key off.
I have not tried restarting the car normally yet. Glad to be home with the car in the garage.
Speculation:
The remote windows do not work. Wet relay again?
Was this system taped off the AC power feed and is somehow backfeeding to the AC unit and in turn the AC is telling the CCM not to let the car start???

I'll find out tonight if the car will start normally.
I'll find out tomorrow if the system pulls power from the AC.

Paul Workman and Jim Voter, I can't thank you enough for giving me your day to fuss with my car. Marc H, thanks for letting us pick your brain. Doug, thanks for sticking with me.
I'd have been screwed without you guys. -Steve

[Dynomite]

in the ECM.. there is no socketed chip in the CCM

Yes.....I am talking ECM.......just in case....lots of weird stuff happens with improperly installed ECM Chip.....

[efnfast]

Update:
Fuse in, key out- AC off (normal)
Car starts and runs normally.
I'm liking and hoping for my theory. I'll talk to the stereo guy tomorrow.

[QB93Z]

Before I dig into this too deep:
Facts:
The car won't start.
The A.C. unit stays energized with the key removed.
Pull the fuse to the AC, car starts and runs normally.
Reinstall fuse, everything ok.
Car has aftermarket stereo, everything looks ok, but no sound to speakers (unrelated?) system installed five years ago.
Aftermarket alarm/remote entry/remote windows/remote hatch.
The relay inside the drivers door to open the windows by remote has failed in the past due to water damage.
The windows currently don't work with the remote, but due with the door switch.
It was pouring rain when the problem first happened.
On the ride home, the AC went back to turning off with the key off.
I have not tried restarting the car normally yet. Glad to be home with the car in the garage.
Speculation:
The remote windows do not work. Wet relay again?
Was this system taped off the AC power feed and is somehow backfeeding to the AC unit and in turn the AC is telling the CCM not to let the car start???

I'll find out tonight if the car will start normally.
I'll find out tomorrow if the system pulls power from the AC.

Paul Workman and Jim Voter, I can't thank you enough for giving me your day to fuss with my car. Marc H, thanks for letting us pick your brain. Doug, thanks for sticking with me.
I'd have been screwed without you guys. -Steve

Since the AC Relay is closest to the door, I suspect that the alarm system installer tapped into AC circuit to get power. I would start there with further investigation.

Good luck,

Jim

[efnfast]

Since the AC Relay is closest to the door, I suspect that the alarm system installer tapped into AC circuit to get power. I would start there with further investigation.

Good luck,

Jim
That's where I plan to start. Encouraging to know there may be hope to my theory. Thanks again for the help Jim.

[efnfast]

Stereo guy thinks it unlikely he hooked to AC. Bringing the car to him next Thursday.

[WARP TEN]

Steve-- Glad you made it home OK and isn't it great that we have such a really fine group of guys like Paul, Marc, Jim, Doug and others who helped try to fix your problem. I am hoping you find a simple solution to this; it sounds like you are certainly on the right track. Good luck with it and keep us posted. --Bob

[efnfast]

Thanks Bob, hope it turns into a simple solution. Kinda' scary when these guys say "never seen that before".

[Paul Workman]

*... scary when these guys say "never seen that before".

Ah, but dat makes it FUN! ;)

[efnfast]

Window relays showed no signs of water damage.
Window remote worked normally today.
Radio died of natural causes. Had to buy a new one. We think the radio problem was unrelated. I did find out that the guy that installed it ran new wires to the speakers instead of canabalizing the factory system.
Car is running normally.

[cvette98pacecar]

Window relays showed no signs of water damage.
Window remote worked normally today.
Radio died of natural causes. Had to buy a new one. We think the radio problem was unrelated. I did find out that the guy that installed it ran new wires to the speakers instead of canabalizing the factory system.
Car is running normally.

Steve, Get some large heat shrink and seal the relay, Plug and wire.

http://www.uline.com/Cls_16/Shrink-Wrap?pricode=WD315&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=heat%20shrink&utm_campaign=Shrink%20Wrap&AdKeyword=heat%20shrink&AdMatchtype=p&gclid=CPHU9NzE5MUCFSKk7Aodwd0ASA&gclsrc=ds