Dynomite
05-08-2015, 10:19 AM
Transmission Height/Angle.
The Height/angle of the Transmission connected to the C-Beam is an important alignment on the Drive Train of the ZR-1. Technically the Transmission C-Beam Top should be 1.77 in from the under body at the front Universal Joint. This can be quickly checked from inside the car by measuring the height of the Stock Shifter in neutral. A Measurement of approximately 6 inches as shown would be a good indication the Transmission has not dropped with Loose C-Beam front bolts. The Use of ZFDoc C-Beam Bolts is highly recommended if the C-Beam alignment has to be adjusted and the C-Beam Bolts tightened.
Secondary to Transmission/Driveline Alignment is ground clearance of Transmission Drain Plug. The Transmission Drain Plug clearance to ground is approximately 4 inches on my ZR-1s which is NOT the lowest point on the ZR-1 Drive Train/Chassis. The Ground Clearance depends on many things including Tire Pressure, Tires, Wheels, and Suspension.
See Item #3, # 5 and Item #6 C4 Beam Plates and Installation (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-2.html#post1581480716)
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite12/IMG_4602.jpg
Item #3, #5 and item #6 repeated here.
3. Removing existing Exhaust.
The Existing Stock Exhaust is the most difficult to remove. You may need a torch to heat the 6 bolts attaching the exhaust to the Catalytic Converters. I recall the bolts have 15mm Heads. You will need a socket wrench and maybe a cheater bar on the socket wrench handle to loosen the bolts.
A. Once the bolts are removed from the Catalytic Converters the two front and two rear 13mm Head Hanger bolts can be removed.
B. Place a rolling hydraulic jack under the rear of the center Exhaust and slide the exhaust to the rear about 1/2 inch to clear the bevel connector on the Drivers Side of the Catalytic Converter Flange Connector. The Front of the exhaust can then be lowered with the hydraulic jack and the entire Exhaust System slid forward releasing the rear slip joints on each side of the tail pipes. Slide the Complete Exhaust System out from under the ZR-1.
C. Remove the three lower 13mm Head bolts holding the front Exhaust Hanger so the hanger can be rotated forward and rearward clearing an area for removal of the C-Beam Transmission Bolts.
5. Why Take Measurements?
It is kind of a corny measurement since you are measuring between the C-Frame and the side wall/Underbody which is heavily coated and made of light steel and the accuracy of the measurement needs only to be within 1/4 inch + or -. I think you are just making sure you did not put an angle in that front driveline U-joint by moving the transmission appreciably during the installation of the new C4 Beam Plates.
A Quick Measurement in regard to Transmission Yoke height can be checked from inside the car by measuring the height of the Shifter. A height of 6.25 inches from the counsel to the top of the shifter (at the center of the shifter in neutral) will be very close to the correct transmission height.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite12/IMG_4602.jpg
a. The 1.77 in spacer should fit between the top of the driveline support to the underbody. The 1.1 in spacer should fit between the right side (passenger side) of the driveline support to the side wall.
b. You might check that alignment spacing before you start the project to see where your alignment is now. Then just keep that alignment with the installation of the new C4 Beam Plates.
SS 10mm x 1.5 x 30mm and SS 10mm x 1.5 x 50mm Bolts.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite9/6c1b97fb-2213-4b05-abeb-4d95e7a8588f.jpg
6. Re-Installing the Exhaust.
The Exhaust System can be re-installed after the C-Beam Plates are torqued and the front Exhaust Hanger is re-installed in the location of the Front C-Beam Plates.
The Entire Exhaust System can be reinstalled by sliding the Exhaust System under the ZR-1 and setting a rolling hydraulic jack under the rear of the center Exhaust and lifting up to within about 8 inches of the final position.
A. Lift the two rear Tail Pipes and slip the slider into position on the slip joints. Slide the Entire Exhaust System to the rear of the ZR-1 about 1 inch completely engaging the slip joints holding the Tail Pipes.
B. Raise the front of the Exhaust System with the rolling Hydraulic Jack to the final height aligning with the Catalytic Converter Connections. Slide the Entire Exhaust System Forward and install 6 NEW SS 10mm x 1.5 bolts. (10mm x 1.5 x 30mm on Passenger Side and 10mm x 1.5 x 50mm on Drivers Side). The SS Bolts shown have 17mm Hex Heads and Washers are NOT required.
C. Reinstall the two Front 13mm Head Hanger Bolts and the two Rear 13mm Head Hanger Bolts.
SS 10mm x 1.5 x 30mm and SS 10mm x 1.5 x 50mm Bolts.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite12/8888447b-05d8-4e19-a65d-f5c1ddcd1a87.jpg
The Height/angle of the Transmission connected to the C-Beam is an important alignment on the Drive Train of the ZR-1. Technically the Transmission C-Beam Top should be 1.77 in from the under body at the front Universal Joint. This can be quickly checked from inside the car by measuring the height of the Stock Shifter in neutral. A Measurement of approximately 6 inches as shown would be a good indication the Transmission has not dropped with Loose C-Beam front bolts. The Use of ZFDoc C-Beam Bolts is highly recommended if the C-Beam alignment has to be adjusted and the C-Beam Bolts tightened.
Secondary to Transmission/Driveline Alignment is ground clearance of Transmission Drain Plug. The Transmission Drain Plug clearance to ground is approximately 4 inches on my ZR-1s which is NOT the lowest point on the ZR-1 Drive Train/Chassis. The Ground Clearance depends on many things including Tire Pressure, Tires, Wheels, and Suspension.
See Item #3, # 5 and Item #6 C4 Beam Plates and Installation (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-2.html#post1581480716)
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite12/IMG_4602.jpg
Item #3, #5 and item #6 repeated here.
3. Removing existing Exhaust.
The Existing Stock Exhaust is the most difficult to remove. You may need a torch to heat the 6 bolts attaching the exhaust to the Catalytic Converters. I recall the bolts have 15mm Heads. You will need a socket wrench and maybe a cheater bar on the socket wrench handle to loosen the bolts.
A. Once the bolts are removed from the Catalytic Converters the two front and two rear 13mm Head Hanger bolts can be removed.
B. Place a rolling hydraulic jack under the rear of the center Exhaust and slide the exhaust to the rear about 1/2 inch to clear the bevel connector on the Drivers Side of the Catalytic Converter Flange Connector. The Front of the exhaust can then be lowered with the hydraulic jack and the entire Exhaust System slid forward releasing the rear slip joints on each side of the tail pipes. Slide the Complete Exhaust System out from under the ZR-1.
C. Remove the three lower 13mm Head bolts holding the front Exhaust Hanger so the hanger can be rotated forward and rearward clearing an area for removal of the C-Beam Transmission Bolts.
5. Why Take Measurements?
It is kind of a corny measurement since you are measuring between the C-Frame and the side wall/Underbody which is heavily coated and made of light steel and the accuracy of the measurement needs only to be within 1/4 inch + or -. I think you are just making sure you did not put an angle in that front driveline U-joint by moving the transmission appreciably during the installation of the new C4 Beam Plates.
A Quick Measurement in regard to Transmission Yoke height can be checked from inside the car by measuring the height of the Shifter. A height of 6.25 inches from the counsel to the top of the shifter (at the center of the shifter in neutral) will be very close to the correct transmission height.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite12/IMG_4602.jpg
a. The 1.77 in spacer should fit between the top of the driveline support to the underbody. The 1.1 in spacer should fit between the right side (passenger side) of the driveline support to the side wall.
b. You might check that alignment spacing before you start the project to see where your alignment is now. Then just keep that alignment with the installation of the new C4 Beam Plates.
SS 10mm x 1.5 x 30mm and SS 10mm x 1.5 x 50mm Bolts.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite9/6c1b97fb-2213-4b05-abeb-4d95e7a8588f.jpg
6. Re-Installing the Exhaust.
The Exhaust System can be re-installed after the C-Beam Plates are torqued and the front Exhaust Hanger is re-installed in the location of the Front C-Beam Plates.
The Entire Exhaust System can be reinstalled by sliding the Exhaust System under the ZR-1 and setting a rolling hydraulic jack under the rear of the center Exhaust and lifting up to within about 8 inches of the final position.
A. Lift the two rear Tail Pipes and slip the slider into position on the slip joints. Slide the Entire Exhaust System to the rear of the ZR-1 about 1 inch completely engaging the slip joints holding the Tail Pipes.
B. Raise the front of the Exhaust System with the rolling Hydraulic Jack to the final height aligning with the Catalytic Converter Connections. Slide the Entire Exhaust System Forward and install 6 NEW SS 10mm x 1.5 bolts. (10mm x 1.5 x 30mm on Passenger Side and 10mm x 1.5 x 50mm on Drivers Side). The SS Bolts shown have 17mm Hex Heads and Washers are NOT required.
C. Reinstall the two Front 13mm Head Hanger Bolts and the two Rear 13mm Head Hanger Bolts.
SS 10mm x 1.5 x 30mm and SS 10mm x 1.5 x 50mm Bolts.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite12/8888447b-05d8-4e19-a65d-f5c1ddcd1a87.jpg