Cheap "thrill" ho-boy.

[Paul Workman]

Killed. Back in my college days, an acquaintance at a rival gas station (back in the days when gas stations had lifts and did actual service!) was killed when "the jack slipped"; he was crushed and died almost instantly, all before horrified witness co-workers could lift the car and drag him out.

So, whenever I'm under the car working off jack stands, his death is always in the back of my mind, and maybe I'm a little paranoid too, ya think?

Now-a-dayz, I gently set the car down on the jack stands to transfer the weight to them, BUT if possible I leave the (two) floor jacks still in contact with the frame, "just in case". Yesterday, was a "necessary" exception...I thought.

LSS, I had the rear up on jack stands, and the front rested on the hydraulic floor jacks as I Lie on my back, under the rear end to top-off the differential fluid I had just replaced.

Suddenly without warning (or provocation!), the purchase point of one of the jack stands shifted. I guess I hadn't had it positioned one of the stands just right and the car settled some. Well, that has happened before, but never while I was "exposed", as it were! (Heck, I was just going to squirt a little more fluid in the diff, having re-arranged the jacking to better level the car...no big deal, right?) BANG! The rear dropped about 1/2" and the car shuddered, the differential just inches from my face... It was over in a split second, but it SCARED THE LIVIN' PISS OUTTA ME! Not knowing what happened, and no redundant floor jacks protecting me, I banged my head and barked some knuckles in my panic getting out from under there!

Well, after catching my breath and reinspecting the jack stands and their setup, no harm done; the stands were perfectly perpendicular to the floor and securely under load-bearing frame pinch seams. False alarm. All was well. Refusing to let fear get the best of me, I crawled back under there, finished in about a minute w/o jostling the car more than needed to replace the fill plug when I finished.

I've NO ceiling height to allow a post lift, but I'm seriously in the market for a "Kwiklift", soon as funds allow! But, in the mean time, maybe those flat 2x4 "shims" that slide under the wheels might be a good interim solution...along with the redundant floor jacks for us paranoid DIY'ers.

Be safe out there, my friends! (Now, excuse me while I find some clean underwear!!)

[B17 Crew]

Glad to hear you're ok, it doesn't take but an instant for a life to change forever.

I was thinking you should consider a Kwik-Lift before I got to the paragraph where you mentioned it. They seem worth the investment. I'm going to try to purchase one this summer for my garage.

B17 Crew
:hello:

[-=Jeff=-]

Paul, i have a kwik-lift if you want to check one out before buying

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Paul, I have a 53 that I just did a body drop onto. I have the chassis on skates, (dollies) since that's how I positioned it under the hanging body during the process. I HATE JACK SATNDS as well. HATE HATE HATE!!!

Anyway, with the chassis on the skates, I have plenty of room to slide underneath it and do whatever I need to do. My point being, either the KWIKLIFT or even the RACE RAMPS that you drive up on, should get you enough room to slide under the car safely and without being nervous.

So glad you are ok.

[Karl]

Killed. Back in my college days, an acquaintance at a rival gas station (back in the days when gas stations had lifts and did actual service!) was killed when "the jack slipped"; he was crushed and died almost instantly, all before horrified witness co-workers could lift the car and drag him out.

So, whenever I'm under the car working off jack stands, his death is always in the back of my mind, and maybe I'm a little paranoid too, ya think?

Now-a-dayz, I gently set the car down on the jack stands to transfer the weight to them, BUT if possible I leave the (two) floor jacks still in contact with the frame, "just in case". Yesterday, was a "necessary" exception...I thought.

LSS, I had the rear up on jack stands, and the front rested on the hydraulic floor jacks as I Lie on my back, under the rear end to top-off the differential fluid I had just replaced.

Suddenly without warning (or provocation!), the purchase point of one of the jack stands shifted. I guess I hadn't had it positioned one of the stands just right and the car settled some. Well, that has happened before, but never while I was "exposed", as it were! (Heck, I was just going to squirt a little more fluid in the diff, having re-arranged the jacking to better level the car...no big deal, right?) BANG! The rear dropped about 1/2" and the car shuddered, the differential just inches from my face... It was over in a split second, but it SCARED THE LIVIN' PISS OUTTA ME! Not knowing what happened, and no redundant floor jacks protecting me, I banged my head and barked some knuckles in my panic getting out from under there!

Well, after catching my breath and reinspecting the jack stands and their setup, no harm done; the stands were perfectly perpendicular to the floor and securely under load-bearing frame pinch seams. False alarm. All was well. Refusing to let fear get the best of me, I crawled back under there, finished in about a minute w/o jostling the car more than needed to replace the fill plug when I finished.

I've NO ceiling height to allow a post lift, but I'm seriously in the market for a "Kwiklift", soon as funds allow! But, in the mean time, maybe those flat 2x4 "shims" that slide under the wheels might be a good interim solution...along with the redundant floor jacks for us paranoid DIY'ers.

Be safe out there, my friends! (Now, excuse me while I find some clean underwear!!)


I am right there with you Paul. 15 years ago I had no fear of going under my vette with heavy duty jack stands. But now for some reason crawling under 3500lbs of steel and fiber glass even with heavy duty jack stands still makes me fell uneasy.

My garage is low ceiling also. Hopefully I can get a lift.

Pete's garage is awesome and so is his lift!

One day I will upgrade.

[ScottZ95ZR1]

Paul - very glad to hear it was not more serious than a change of drawers!

[XfireZ51]

And yet Mr. Haibeck does all of the work in his shop on jackstands not a lift.
I suppose thats because even if the jackstands give way, he's skinny enough to squirt out from under the car. Unfortunately, the rest of us would be squashed like a bug.
But Paul, I understand your trepidation. I did a ZF-6 transplant on my 84 one winter. Was under the car for over a month. I got comfortable with snaking under there after a while. But I always shake the car prior to sliding under it and like you, I do keep a floor jack engaged as well, just in case.

[Billy Mild]

How does everyone lift their car? I usually do driver side, then lift the passenger side. I have seen on some cars where they lift the front then the back of the car. Is there a right or wrong way to do it?

I wish I could get a MaxJack System, but that just isn't in the budget.

[XfireZ51]

Anybody ever try any of the scissor lifts out there? I see more of those being used in body shops I visit.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

I've looked at the scissor lifts. They're fine. Several weight capacity styles available.

I plan on a 2 post lift in my shop this year. I have a 4 post lift in the house garage but there are always cars stored on it.

[XfireZ51]

Brett,

When I have read the spec on these, they mention needing to pout a 6" slab to support them. They don't work for a standard garage cement floor? For most work, they look ideal.

[Dynomite]

I've NO ceiling height to allow a post lift, but I'm seriously in the market for a "Kwiklift", soon as funds allow! Be safe out there, my friends! (Now, excuse me while I find some clean underwear!!)

Paul.....I have a KwikLift and I use it with front raised as I can just park on KwikLift and roll under front checking engine with very nice KwikLift Creeper. Got to have the Creeper also.
Oh.....and get a couple of the yellow chocks which are always used when ZR-1 is parked on the ramps raised or not :cheers:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/LT5/Creeper.jpg

With both ends raised very easy to roll under the ZR-1 at any location (yellow chock shown behind rear wheel) :thumbsup:

http://www.kwik-lift.com/big_images/black_vette.jpg

See Lifting and Towing the ZR-1 (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070574)

See ZR-1 Transmission Install and Lift Tricks (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-2.html#post1581472079)

[JimZRyd]

Glad you're ok! I was just out in my garage this morning planning how I'm going to lift mine up in order to install my coilovers and a few other goodies:dancing. I have a set of race ramps and I'm very confident with them. I usually drive up on them and then jack it off the ramps, replacing the ramps with jack stands, usually 4 up front. Then comes the fun part, getting the rear up and doing the same with the stands. Gotta be safe out there fellas!

[Jim Nolan]

I had a Eagle scissor lift and the only problem with them is anything up the center, trans/clutch, is impossible. They are good for anything on the outside ie. brakes and such. Not knowing what the thickness of my floor I got hold of large 1/2 inch aluminum plates to put onder the steel wheels and the front feet and never had an issue.

Jim

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Brett,

When I have read the spec on these, they mention needing to pout a 6" slab to support them. They don't work for a standard garage cement floor? For most work, they look ideal.

Probably best for a thicker floor but I know of a local shop that's used theirs on a 4" slab for years. I agree with putting steel plate underneath the rollers, no matter what the concrete thickness may be.

[Bearly Flying]

maybe those flat 2x4 "shims" that slide under the wheels might be a good interim solution...along with the redundant floor jacks for us paranoid DIY'ers.


I would be very cautious there... Sliding shims under the wheels will provide extra room, but your suspension might still be unloaded. If something shifts or fails the car could still bounce down enough to create problems.

Even on my lift, I am nervous. I have secondary safety pins that install through the columns below the sliders. Just in case.....

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hey P,

Glad to hear that you are okay despite that scare. I was just under mine a few weeks ago to check the suspension and rear diff too in preparation for my HOD session at Laguna Seca next month.

I understand your feeling and kind of feel the same way. I was terrified when I was in Japan for 3 years thinking about being under a jacked up car and tremors from earthquakes. Now I move to another earthquake area here in CA. I'm so paranoid and always shaking the car before going under, but still worried. I have decent jack stands, but really need to buy better quality (not made in China). I have my heavy duty 5 tons from Napa that I bought years and years ago (can't find that quality any more), but they require jacked up very high at the lowest setting. They have such a wide base that get in the way sometimes, but I trust them most as long as sitting properly on the stands.

Now that I am in the upper 48 I need to get at least a Kwiklift (so glad they came back). There was an awesome deal a few months ago from a local seller that I missed out on for $500 and looked like new with all the extras. Really considering construction inside the garage to open up the beams to allow a lift. Kind of like the idea better of the Kwiklift, but would like to bring the other ZR-1 into the garage for storage and stack so I don't have to get rid of the 90.

Thanks for refreshing my mind about safety. Take care and see you next month at BG.

[A26B]

I had a KwikLift before I bought the 4 post, and I only bought it because I needed to put another car in the garage. The KwikLift is an absolutely secure way to have access to the underside at a perfect creeper height. You can remove the front supports to lay the rest down flat & park on top when not in use. Great piece of equipment.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

How does everyone lift their car? I usually do driver side, then lift the passenger side. I have seen on some cars where they lift the front then the back of the car. Is there a right or wrong way to do it?

I wish I could get a MaxJack System, but that just isn't in the budget.

I'm with you about lifting the sides and the only way I would attempt. I have never read about lifting front and back so curious to know. It seems like the body does not have the strength to do so that way. I remember buying a device to put on the jack to lift the rear by the diff, but never did use it oddly enough. I like the idea of that MaxJack system too, would just like to stack cars if possible since I don't have enough real estate to build another garage. :cheers:

[C4Ray]

I think Race Ramps are safer than jack stands.

[efnfast]

Geez Paul, that'll wake you up!

[JimZRyd]

I think Race Ramps are safer than jack stands.

I agree, but when you have to remove the wheels and don't have a lift...

[RussMcB]

Back when I was on Kim Baker's racing team, he got a lot of assistance from Bernie (forget his last name), owner/editor of "Keeping Track of Corvettes" magazine. We lost Bernie due to an accident in his garage when one of his cars fell on him. Very sad for the family and racing team. I think about that often when working under my cars.

The KwikLift (and Race Ramps, I assume), don't seem near as useful since I'm usually removing wheels and tires more often than not.

The thought of a car on jack stands during an earthquake had not occurred to me, and I lived in California (but I was a dumb 16 YO and didn't put a lot of thought into much of anything. :-)

The Ranger Quick Jack looks pretty cool, but after using a jack and stands for 40 years, I suppose I can keep doing that for a few more.

[Dynomite]

The KwikLift (and Race Ramps, I assume), don't seem near as useful since I'm usually removing wheels and tires more often than not.



If all one is doing is removing tires or doing a brake replacement, then a simple hydraulic jack at the lift points behind front wheel and in front of rear wheel on the side you are working on is about the safest and quickest method. A Jack stand is a safety measure on the corner you are working on.

[Paul Workman]

One thing that might help is an adapter that mates the hydraulic floor jack "CUP" to the pinch weld on the frame. as it is right now, the "CUP" on the floor jack catches the foot well and/or the rocker panel, damaging either or both, sooner or later. OR, I suppose I could fabricate one too. As it is, to avoid damaging either the foot well or the rocker, I end up moving the jack pad (cup) toward the areas where the jack stands would be placed, interfering with the jack stands (the basic problem) placement. (I guess I'm on a roll: my "wish list" is fresh on my mind!)

[Dynomite]

One thing that might help is an adapter that mates the hydraulic floor jack "CUP" to the pinch weld on the frame. as it is right now, the "CUP" on the floor jack catches the foot well and/or the rocker panel, damaging either or both, sooner or later. OR, I suppose I could fabricate one too. As it is, to avoid damaging either the foot well or the rocker, I end up moving the jack pad (cup) toward the areas where the jack stands would be placed, interfering with the jack stands (the basic problem) placement. (I guess I'm on a roll: my "wish list" is fresh on my mind!)

Good point....but I have the Hydraulic Aluminum Floor Jack (3 ton) Pittsburgh Racing with very low initial height and weighs 55 lbs with high lift rate. The Jack has a nice rubber pad so no damage to the rails you are referring to :thumbsup:

Had one tire guy (when I was not looking) place jack under rocker one time....NOT GOOD.
So have to know stuff to not destroy stuff :D

3 ton Pittsburgh Racing Aluminum Floor Jack (http://www.harborfreight.com/aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-3-tons-68052.html)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/LT5/3Tonfloorjack.jpg

[RussMcB]

If all one is doing is removing tires or doing a brake replacement, ... <snip>"Usually" is not the same as "all".

One thing that might help is an adapter that mates the hydraulic floor jack "CUP" to the pinch weld on the frame. as it is right now, the "CUP" on the floor jack catches the foot well and/or the rocker panel, damaging either or both, sooner or later. OR, I suppose I could fabricate one too. As it is, to avoid damaging either the foot well or the rocker, I end up moving the jack pad (cup) toward the areas where the jack stands would be placed, interfering with the jack stands (the basic problem) placement. (I guess I'm on a roll: my "wish list" is fresh on my mind!)I've heard people suggest using actual hockey pucks for this (with a slit cut into them). I made some out of wood pretty easily (for a different car type). They worked well. I guess the Corvette version might need to be stepped or shaped to only touch what it should. Sounds like a worthwhile project.

[XfireZ51]

My jack stands have a "slit" cut into top. Its also "cupped". There are some sections of the frame rails and body that fit in the slot. In fact there are chain holds that were likely used in the build process for the body. These slide into the slot on the jack stand. That's what I use whenever I put car up.
I'd like to get one of those floor jack adapters that fits between the exhaust pipes and raises the car at the diff.

[C4Ray]

I have the same Jack as Dynomite - works good.

[-=Jeff=-]

I'd like to get one of those floor jack adapters that fits between the exhaust pipes and raises the car at the diff.

this one?

http://www.corvettegadgetman.com/products3.html

[JimZRyd]

I recently picked one of those up from the Gadget Man. Haven't used it yet. Seems very well made!

[-=Jeff=-]

Yes it is.. I modded mine for use with a bottle jack.. works good..

I still need to find a good way to put the car on jackstands while on the Kwik-lift

[Dynomite]

I still need to find a good way to put the car on jackstands while on the Kwik-lift
http://www.kwik-lift.com/big_images/Kwiklift_brakes_360.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/771dcdd8-0372-4aab-90c8-cf97d4c01717.jpg

I have two of the black cross members (like shown in the photo) to support jack stands, hydraulic jacks, transmissions.

[mike100]

I want a lift but it will cost me half a million dollars in San Diego Co.

[XfireZ51]

Cliff,

My jackstands look like yours in the pic. Only mine are black.

[-=Jeff=-]

http://www.kwik-lift.com/big_images/Kwiklift_brakes_360.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/771dcdd8-0372-4aab-90c8-cf97d4c01717.jpg

Yeah I have 2 of those bridges and they work great.. especially the front.. That is easy to get on stands..

Tell me where the good spots are in the back, there are none that work well with the Kwik-lift that I have found

[Dynomite]

Cliff,

My jackstands look like yours in the pic. Only mine are black.

Those are not my jack stands.....just found that for illustration.
My jack stands are identical however but Red in color (heavy duty).

That is not my KwikLift ....this is ;)
Both black Bridges are shown.

Also shown with my rig for winching a ZR-1 onto KwikLift (no engine) :D

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/Come-a-long2.jpg

[Dynomite]

Yeah I have 2 of those bridges and they work great.. especially the front.. That is easy to get on stands..

Tell me where the good spots are in the back, there are none that work well with the Kwik-lift that I have found

I have to look.....but I am thinking either jack up at the normal jack point just in front of rear tire with jack on quick lift (roadway) and then support center of jacked up leaf spring with adapter and blocks on the bridge. Or jack up with adapter on center of leaf spring and support normal jacking points in front of rear tires on blocks on quick lift (roadway).

But have to look more closely.

Oh....I am assuming you want to maybe remove rear differential/short shafts completely with ZR-1 up on KwikLift?

[-=Jeff=-]

I have to look.....but I am thinking either jack up at the normal jack point just in front of rear tire with jack on quick lift (roadway) and then support center of jacked up leaf spring with adapter and blocks on the bridge. Or jack up with adapter on center of leaf spring and support normal jacking points in front of rear tires on blocks on quick lift (roadway).

But have to look more closely.

Yeah that is what I do now, but Would like to find a better way to lift it in the center.... Hmm maybe off the Leaf spring mount.. That could work..
struggle is getting the car on the lift and clear the tube so I can use the bridge at the back

[Dynomite]

Yeah that is what I do now, but Would like to find a better way to lift it in the center.... Hmm maybe off the Leaf spring mount.. That could work..
struggle is getting the car on the lift and clear the tube so I can use the bridge at the back

I use a extra strong short pipe section under the center of the heavy leaf spring between the four main bolts holding that spring in place. but some have said that extra strong pipe section does not fit easily between the stock exhaust pipes behind the differential (fits perfectly with SW Exhaust).

I think I did jack up the ZR-1 with the extra strong pipe section and stock exhaust however. One advantage is that the rear of the ZR-1 is rather light compared to the front ;)

Lifting and Towing the ZR-1 (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070574)

Now if you want to have fun.....get these mats to keep your ZR-1 dry from condensation (Mid West Guys) and the floor all around the ZR-1 NON SLIP :D

The mats are 3/8 closed cell foam 2 ft x 2 ft interlocking squares (easily disassembled and rearranged as you like).

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/IMG_4533.jpg

[We Gone]

Glad you had a good outcome Paul, Everyone also be sure to check your floor jacks often, I had one that the pins got lose over time and I had not checked them. Needles to say it came apart as I was jacking one side and it kicked out damaging the rocker and drivers door. Was not a happy camper :mad:

[batchman]

Paul, really glad the damage is limited to underclothes. Could have been much worse for you and/or the car.

Definitely have learned some hard lessons in this racket, first being to stick with the style of jackstand that Dynomite shows in post #33. The sheetmetal type are death in waiting.

Also have plenty of experience with hydraulic jacks, of all brands. The metal is not often where the failures lurk, it's usually the hydraulics. I use a hockey puck to limit floorpan issues - stout enough, malleable enough, and easily/cheaply replaced when the time comes. Use two at a time, front & rear to limit stress on car and jack alike.

I have an 8' ceiling, so I use a scissor lift (an old Bend-Pak I think) but need to get some steel under the rollers as it's grinding on the floor a little too much. I'm cautious enough with the scissor lift, as it's only a 4k limit. I'm really only doing suspension/brake work and tire swaps or fluids, no problem - I get to a decent working height with the hood open. You can find these used pretty reasonably if you keep your eyes open.

Cheers/later,
- Jeff

[Paul Workman]

Well, I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that HATES jack stands. And, thanks to all for your suggestions and comments - and there's plenty of room for more yet.

Hocky pucks (check!):thumbsup:,
QuickLift (check!):thumbsup:,
hydraulic jack adapters (check!):thumbsup:
scissor lift (check!):thumbsup:

And, I seem to recall someone making an adapter for a floor jack that contacted both of the jacking points on one side of the C4 and lifted the entire side all at once. Anyone have one or seen one?

[Z51JEFF]

I always keep the floor jacks under the car as well as the jackstands but I only have a one car garage so I can only go one side at a time which is worse than keeping the car level from side to side. Did I mention I live in Ca, earthquake anyone?

[Gunny]

I don't use hockey pucks anymore ... I've had 2 split/separate and the chassis went "bam" ... nothing damaged, but I had to go inside & change after the "scare" ... maybe I got a bad batch of pucks :eek:

[Funracer]

Ten years ago my neighbor across the street and his dad had his 85 vette on jackstands. Dad left to get a part at AZ. Came home found vette slipped off the jack and caught his son in the jugular. Left a wife
and two young daughters.

After many years of wanting I almost got a lift this year but the $$ slipped away as usual. I will admit that
prior to the above I was occasionally a little casual about lifting the car. Going to a funeral will change that.

[Dynomite]

Well, I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that HATES jack stands. And, thanks to all for your suggestions and comments - and there's plenty of room for more yet.

Hocky pucks (check!),
QuickLift (check!),
hydraulic jack adapters (check!)
scissor lift (check!)

And, I seem to recall someone making an adapter for a floor jack that contacted both of the jacking points on one side of the C4 and lifted the entire side all at once. Anyone have one or seen one?

When you do NOT have KwikLift :D
And when you have mickymouse Jack Stands I always leave the jack positioned and under some pressure where I can.

A Little of Everything.......you cannot back up on the rear wheel ramps and the front wood ramps at the same time. Have to back first on wheel ramps and then jack sides to position wood ramps to get jack under front skirt to raise front of ZR-1 :sign10:

One jack is under Transmission to install ZFDoc C-Beam Plates.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/5822f600-bb00-41ea-8036-235419970360.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Dynomite11/5822f600-bb00-41ea-8036-235419970360.jpg.html)http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/d65b805a-6eed-44a0-9b57-607283afcf7b.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Dynomite11/d65b805a-6eed-44a0-9b57-607283afcf7b.jpg.html)
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/69410e6b-b1e8-4321-89b9-c4443495e30b.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Dynomite11/69410e6b-b1e8-4321-89b9-c4443495e30b.jpg.html)http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/d86987d7-402b-4ed9-9130-dc35d5de8f85.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Dynomite11/d86987d7-402b-4ed9-9130-dc35d5de8f85.jpg.html)

[Rex Ruby]

When I was young and stupid I performed a front brake pad replacement on my 1972 Grand Prix. I was using a Ford van bottle style crank up jack with no jack stands. Those jacks have a curved bottom, damn thing slipped and the car fell off. It was raining so I was trying to huddle in the wheel well as much as I could to not get wet. When the jack slipped I found myself stuck in the wheel well, chest pinned to my thighs. I managed to wriggle out but was unable to move past that due to the back pain. I compress fractured my L2 vertabrae and spent 3 weeks in the hospital then 3 months at home before I could start to resume my normal life. I was very fortunate that I wasn't paralyzed. SO needless to say anytime I lift a car I triple check the jackstands and as most leave the floor jack there as a back up. I purchased a 2 post lift about 12 years ago, love it but am always nervous whem I have 3200 pounds hovering in the air!

[Racinfan83]

I still do the hockey pucks on the jack. Found that old ones work far better then new ones. Hockey coach friend of mine brought me a couple old used ones - they don't cut or split. I got one new one and it cuts like crazy.
I jack passenger side up with jack about under the mirror, put my best jack stands on that side, then jack driver side same way and place my other stands. No issues so far, and I even do it when I'm waxing/polishing just to get it up easier to work on...

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I don't use hockey pucks anymore ... I've had 2 split/separate and the chassis went "bam" ... nothing damaged, but I had to go inside & change after the "scare" ... maybe I got a bad batch of pucks :eek:

Hey George,

I totally agree with you and started using these type of floor jack discs that work great and will not crack or slip as it holds on to the seam with the slot:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j86/hawaiizr1/jack%20disc_zpsnphgplqu.jpg

I got this one in Japan at the auto parts store, but I see they sell similar and larger ones on Ebay if searched by floor jack disks. They are quite pricey in US by comparison. :handshak: See you in a few weeks.

[Gunny]

Craig,

That looks perfect ... and you didn't remember to pick one for me? [-X

See you in BG

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,

That looks perfect ... and you didn't remember to pick one for me? [-X

See you in BG

Yeah, had I known they would work so well I would have bought a case of them to BG. I'll have to bring some back in the suitcase the next time. Looking forward to the Gathering and seeing you again. :cheers: