Trying a ZR-1 tonight but no power key said the owner

[MuRCieLaGo]

What can I do to test it properly? It's pretty sad he lost the power key !!!

[RussMcB]

I wonder how long he has driven it without the secondaries being used. That's a little worrying.

Is it a nice car that you might get cheap? If you're a gambler you can buy it for a low price and plan to get a chip soon that will not need the power key. You might want to consider that new injectors might be needed.

[mike100]

1990 only: take apart trim panel and clip wire across contacts.

1991-up:
1) get blank door key cut to match power key.
2) reprogram chip to default to full power every time car is started.

[MuRCieLaGo]

It's a 1990, how can I do it easy?

[Dynomite]

What can I do to test it properly? It's pretty sad he lost the power key !!!


With the key on, ground the pink wire in the green connector (third from drivers side) on ECM. Use a small finishing nail stuck in alongside the wire connector with an alligator clip pigtail attached to the end for grounding. This will allow you to activate and observe the Secondaries function with Plenum installed.

See Secondary Functional Test and Reconditioning the Secondary Actuators (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-4.html#post1581665189)

With Key On........
Find the Pink Wire which is C17 (or pink wire with black strip) on the ECM. Insert a Paperclip along side the Pink wire
and attach a ground wire with Alligator Clip on both ends. Pin C17 is located in the Green Connector
second connector on the ECM from the passenger side.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite7/007bd685-3861-4028-99e6-e6d8764dce7e.jpg

Look down on the Passenger Side in the ...........................Look down on the Drivers Side in the
direction of the screw driver (Use a Flashlight). ..............direction of the screw driver (Use a Flashlight).
You will see the shaft of the canister which will ...............You will see the shaft of the canister which will
move toward the FRONT of the engine when ...................move toward the REAR of the engine when
you ground the Alligator Clip (The Front of the ................you ground the Alligator Clip (The Rear of the
engine is to the Right in the Photo)..................................(engine is to the Right in the Photo).
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite7/c4108afa-77a3-42a0-bbef-481fe4ee3dab.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite7/8d5415aa-de81-4ffc-bfbc-f9e90a8d82fd.jpg

[MuRCieLaGo]

Thanks Dynomite !!! It looks quite complicated....

[Dynomite]

Thanks Dynomite !!! It looks quite complicated....

Takes a minute........I do it often to check secondaries. First I make sure the vacuum pump cycles for a few seconds with the key on and then the vacuum pump turns off for a minute or so. This assures there is vacuum to the secondary canisters for proper operation. You need a couple of those test wires with alligator clips on both ends you can pick up at any Radio Shack. Attach one end to Pin C17 as described and the other end to any frame or engine screw/bolt you can find. As you touch the ground wire you will see the secondary canister levers move as described above.

It is fun....try it :D

This is a quick test anytime you think your secondaries are not working.

[PhillipsLT5]

Takes a minute........I do it often to check secondaries. First I make sure the vacuum pump cycles for a few seconds with the key on and then the vacuum pump turns off for a minute or so. This assures there is vacuum to the secondary canisters for proper operation. You need a couple of those test wires with alligator clips on both ends you can pick up at any Radio Shack. Attach one end to Pin C17 as described and the other end to any frame or engine screw/bolt you can find. As you touch the ground wire you will see the secondary canister levers move as described above.

It is fun....try it :D

This is a quick test anytime you think your secondaries are not working.

Dyno always has the answers/legit

[MuRCieLaGo]

So basically I can simply ground that wire and take it for a ride with the valet key - that way I will have full power?

Thanks a lot for the help!

[Dynomite]

So basically I can simply ground that wire and take it for a ride with the valet key - that way I will have full power?

Thanks a lot for the help!

No....and yes.....if you are talking about Mike's wire........Mike can explain the details.

If you are talking about the Pink C17 wire.....you do not need to take it for a ride....you can observe the secondary actuators (canister shafts) move as you ground the C17 wire Without Starting the Engine. Now if you were to take it for a ride you can assume those secondaries are working just like you seen them work by grounding C17 and looking at them as I suggested through the middle Plenum runners.

By grounding C17 and watching the Vacuum Canister shafts move you have proved complete mechanical integrity of the secondaries as well as functional integrity of the Vacuum System including the integrity of the vacuum system secondary Port Throttle Valve Solenoid shown below.

In the photo below you see the Secondary Port Throttle Valve Solenoid, The infamous Check Valve that checks (closes the port to the passenger side of the Plenum when Plenum Vacuum is less than required), and the Secondary Port Vacuum Reservoir. The little round in line cylinder with white and black ring is the check valve itself. The Secondary Port Throttle Valve Solenoid is an electrically operated valve with the electrical wire not shown.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/LT5/Vacuumsolenoid.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/LT5/SecondaryVacuumSys-1.jpg

[WVZR-1]

So basically I can simply ground that wire and take it for a ride with the valet key - that way I will have full power?

Thanks a lot for the help!

For a '90 just get a GM D-blank door key cut to code 91C9 and you'll have a functioning "valet". No jumping or dis-assembly.

Is this the car that was in Toronto?

[MuRCieLaGo]

For a '90 just get a GM D-blank door key cut to code 91C9 and you'll have a functioning "valet". No jumping or dis-assembly.

I don't need the valet, I need the "power" key.

[WVZR-1]

I don't need the valet, I need the "power" key.

Valet - POWER = one in the same!

[MuRCieLaGo]

Oh wow thank you! I hope the local GM dealership got one in stock!

[MuRCieLaGo]

Do you think a blank key like that is hard to get?

[WVZR-1]

Do you think a blank key like that is hard to get?

You will NOT have any problem, if your question is the 91C9 code, that is just coincidental. I assure you if it's NOT been tampered with the D-blank 91C9 will work, even in a Canadian car.

Any GM dealer or local hardware that does keys.

[MuRCieLaGo]

Ok so I just have to go to any key cutter, tell them I need a key cut for a '90 ZR-1 with the code 91C9 and bingo?

If so, I think you're my hero.

[MuRCieLaGo]

I thought the original power key had a chip on it...

[WVZR-1]

Ok so I just have to go to any key cutter, tell them I need a key cut for a '90 ZR-1 with the code 91C9 and bingo?

If so, I think you're my hero.

You don't need to or even want to mention ZR-1. It's not important. Just the D-code blank and the 91C9 code. The key will be an oval-head door blank. Don't be concerned.

I thought the original power key had a chip on it...


No chips

Now if the owner has already by-passed the key and then lost/misplaced the key then I'd think he would know and pass on the information. In that case, if the owner has by-passed the key wouldn't be a factor, it should perform as an always-on modified car.

I likely have an NOS original key with the knock-out still in it.

[Paul Workman]

Also...

On a '90 that has the (popular) secondaries deleted modification, whether there is a POWER key or not or whether it is turned on or not the FULL ENGINE POWER will be illuminated on the center display status screen (above the radio, etc.) IF the the switch has been modified (per Mike 100s post).

WARNING:

IF the chip has been modified so that the Secondary Port Throttles have been permanently "turned on", then the "NORMAL vs. FULL POWER (key switch) MUST always be in FULL POWER mode. Otherwise a serious/dagerous lean condition will exist and can result in burnt valves. So, to be safe, the wires going to the switch are often jumpered together (per Mike 100s post).

[Dynomite]

Also...

On a '90 that has the (popular) secondaries deleted modification, whether there is a POWER key or not or whether it is turned on or not the FULL ENGINE POWER will be illuminated on the center display status screen (above the radio, etc.) IF the the switch has been modified (per Mike 100s post).

WARNING:

IF the chip has been modified so that the Secondary Port Throttles have been permanently "turned on", then the "NORMAL vs. FULL POWER (key switch) MUST always be in FULL POWER mode. Otherwise a serious/dagerous lean condition will exist and can result in burnt valves. So, to be safe, the wires going to the switch are often jumpered together (per Mike 100s post).


Lots to remember for those that eliminate their secondairies :D

On my 90's I just turn Power Key ON to see that nice Display FULL ENGINE POWER or Power Key OFF to delete the FULL ENGINE POWER from the Display.

Nothing to remember and NOTHING that can go wrong. And I have Marc Haibeck CHIPS.

WARNING:

And my 90's will probably out run most other 90's with or without Secondaries
eliminated (That is Serious/Dangerous or Dagerous Power) :sign10:

I have my Secondaries.......Just Saying :cheers:

Just having a little fun Paul ;)

[MuRCieLaGo]

Thank you very much for the infos Dynomite I really appreciate it!

[Paul Workman]

Lots to remember for those that eliminate their secondairies :D

On my 90's I just turn Power Key ON to see that nice Display FULL ENGINE POWER or Power Key OFF to delete the FULL ENGINE POWER from the Display.

Nothing to remember and NOTHING that can go wrong. And I have Marc Haibeck CHIPS.

WARNING:

And my 90's will probably out run most other 90's with or without Secondaries
eliminated (That is Serious/Dangerous or Dagerous Power) :sign10:

I have my Secondaries.......Just Saying :cheers:

Just having a little fun Paul ;)

Does sound like a lot, huh? (Didn't mean to overwhelm ya!:p) But, seriously...after the first time I noticed the FULL ENGINE POWER was not lit, and just barely wiggling the key switch "fixed" it...OUT CAME THE SOLDERING iron and never again will that ever be a potential issue. Juuuuust sayin!;)

[Dynomite]

Also...

On a '90 that has the (popular) secondaries deleted modification, whether there is a POWER key or not or whether it is turned on or not the FULL ENGINE POWER will be illuminated on the center display status screen (above the radio, etc.) IF the the switch has been modified (per Mike 100s post).

WARNING:

IF the chip has been modified so that the Secondary Port Throttles have been permanently "turned on", then the "NORMAL vs. FULL POWER (key switch) MUST always be in FULL POWER mode. Otherwise a serious/dagerous lean condition will exist and can result in burnt valves. So, to be safe, the wires going to the switch are often jumpered together (per Mike 100s post).

On the 91' there is no display. There is a green light next to the POWER Key which illuminates with POWER Key turned on (clockwise).

On a 91' SANS Secondaries with modified CHIP I think you are saying the Injector Functions have been modified/matched to the SANS Secondaries. The issue of a lean condition you describe as serious is when you remove Secondaries WITHOUT a CHIP to alter the Injector Functions.

Do NOT remove or tie open your Secondaires WITHOUT modifying your CHIP !!!!!
Your Warning says that in the second sentence.......Excellent Point Paul :thumbsup: