New Wheels

[Bolling]

I thought these were chrome but when I got there they are polished. I needed spacers in the back to clear on the inside. I am also going to get longer lug nuts. Got it all together and went to back it out and I heard rubbing so I pulled back in. I found out it was rubbing on the B&B mufflers. I just left it until tomorrow. Also it is about 0 degrees here. I backed it out of the garage and took it about 5 blocks to my heated city building and by the time I got there it was leaking oil which looks like out of rear trans seat but I did not get under there to look yet. There was not a drop on my garage floor, I guess I should not have driven it at all in such cold weather. I did get a pic with the new wheels.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Looks great!

[HIZNHRZ]

Looks great!

I agree!

[RICKYRJ1]

Are they 18 front 19 rear? If you use a wheel adapter you dont have to do new studs. :saluting:

[XfireZ51]

I'm biased but it's as if those wheels were made for the ZR-1, IMO. Classic.
I used open back lugs for mine. Unfortunately, the plastic caps for the lugs are not quite long enough for the wheel locks. I'd like to replace them w metal caps if I could find them.

[Vette73]

Nice looking wheels ...Enjoy them...Are your stock A molds for sale ? " The ones it came with".?

[WVZR-1]

I'm biased but it's as if those wheels were made for the ZR-1, IMO. Classic.
I used open back lugs for mine. Unfortunately, the plastic caps for the lugs are not quite long enough for the wheel locks. I'd like to replace them w metal caps if I could find them.

I'm quite sure I pointed out the stainless caps a very long time ago for you. Your wheel nuts are M24-2 external OR what?

[Bolling]

Are they 18 front 19 rear? If you use a wheel adapter you dont have to do new studs. :saluting:

I think I am going to try that. The only problem is the smallest I have found is 1 inch but I am going to try it.
Yes they are 18 and 19.

[Bolling]

Nice looking wheels ...Enjoy them...Are your stock A molds for sale ? " The ones it came with".?

My A molds are aftermarket but they do have the correct offset. They look brand new. I am going to just keep them for now.

[USAFPILOT]

nice 49th St. rocker panels, wish I could find a set.

[Roadster]

As with everyone else, looks great......:cheers:


they make your Z stand out, need some close up pics whenever you can.....

[RICKYRJ1]

I think I am going to try that. The only problem is the smallest I have found is 1 inch but I am going to try it.
Yes they are 18 and 19.

I sent my adapters to Carter at CT Machining he turned them down to the exact size I needed/wanted.

[XfireZ51]

I'm quite sure I pointed out the stainless caps a very long time ago for you. Your wheel nuts are M24-2 external OR what?

Wow that would be great. Let me check out the lugs and see about getting back to you.

[Bolling]

I sent my adapters to Carter at CT Machining he turned them down to the exact size I needed/wanted.

When you bolt on the adapter what do you do with the stud that is protruding past the one inch.

[XfireZ51]

This is where I got my spacers.

http://www.wheeladapter.com/wheel_spacers.php

I wanted something that was BOTH WHEEL and HUB centric. I can tell you that when I go to remove rear wheels, these spacers are locked into the wheel.
No slop.
Again, mine are 18mm thick.

[XfireZ51]

BTW, looked at the lugs. All I could see is the word METRIC and then SF 9.

[RICKYRJ1]

When you bolt on the adapter what do you do with the stud that is protruding past the one inch.

I just trimmed about a 1/4" of the stud off flush with the adapter. I have had them on now for several years with 0 issues, I believe I paid around $100 for the 2 rears

[RussMcB]

I'm wondering why some people choose adapters over longer studs and spacers. Is there some sort of advantage? Seems like longer studs would be simpler (in design), stronger and safer, plus you're not limited to a minimum thickness.

Also seems like longer studs would be cheaper, too, but I haven't found them at reasonable prices yet.

[RICKYRJ1]

I chose the adapter route because if I wanted to install new wheels with the correct offset (OEM/aftermarket) I wouldn't have to change the studs for a 2nd time. It takes less than a minute to remove the adapter. I bought quality adapters and have never had an issue with some hard driving on them. :saluting:

[Bolling]

I chose the adapter route because if I wanted to install new wheels with the correct offset (OEM/aftermarket) I wouldn't have to change the studs for a 2nd time. It takes less than a minute to remove the adapter. I bought quality adapters and have never had an issue with some hard driving on them. :saluting:

thanks for the info. Are your adapters aluminum?

[XfireZ51]

Here are the wheel studs I have using spacers. ~$50 for the two sides

http://www.fmsrperformance.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=218

[RussMcB]

Here are the wheel studs I have using spacers. ~$50 for the two sides

http://www.fmsrperformance.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=218Nice! I was hoping someone would chime in with a good source. Thank you.

[batchman]

I'm wondering why some people choose adapters over longer studs and spacers. Is there some sort of advantage? Seems like longer studs would be simpler (in design), stronger and safer, plus you're not limited to a minimum thickness.

I chose the adapter route because if I wanted to install new wheels with the correct offset (OEM/aftermarket) I wouldn't have to change the studs for a 2nd time. It takes less than a minute to remove the adapter.

I went with studs and spacers (5/8" IIRC) because lightness and simplicity are important to me. I actually use them with the OEs (street/rain), my CCWs (race rubber), and my clone A-Molds ("school" race rubber). The only pain with the studs is the rate at which I change rear hubs.

I use them with the OEs because one time I did an "away" event and with all the hassle of getting my race rubber & jacks etc there, I forgot the spacers. Missed half my runs that day. So I leave 'em on, no clearance trouble.

And now that I think about it, leaving them on with the OE wheels means I don't have that much extra length to run the lug nuts. If you can't guess, I change wheels more often than some folks change socks.

Much is made of hub- vs lug-centric mounting; I believe I routinely hit >1.5g cornering on my A6s and those wheels are lug-centric only. On the other hand I do have the re-torque religion due to swapping 'em so often.

Cheers,
- Jeff

[RICKYRJ1]

thanks for the info. Are your adapters aluminum?

yes