Minor rear hight adjustment how to please?

[jonszr1]

Walked up behind my car the other day and noticed the driver side looked lower than the pass. Straightened wheels and cked .Sure enough drivers 1/2 in lower than pass. I measured at top of wheel well in the center. what do i do to get it the same on both sides/?:icon_scra

[ZR1 MK]

Proper ride height is measured at the frame as outlined in the manual, but if your like most and me, you want the body to tire clearances the same. You need to adjust the rear spring bolt and nut. Its located at each end of the rear spring.

[petefias]

The ride height is measured at the frame (4 points) as outlined in the service manual. The body reference points are not all that accurate. Most cars will show differences. If you're making changes in the rear keep in mind that front spring tension is also affecting rear height. The front, however, has no easy adjustments. So, you may be compensating in the rear for some issue on the front.

The stock rear spring bolts have a cotter pin and it is not long enough for adjustment. Aftermarket bolts are longer and have special nuts to not back out.

Unless you had an accident I wouldn't worry about it.

[jonszr1]

thanx guys . I thought i might be a worry wart. I had an idea , could one use a nylock instead of the castle nut and cotter key if i wanted to tweek the back height a little. has anyone done this before? I'm talking about 3 or 4 rotations max.

[petefias]

thanx guys . I thought i might be a worry wart. I had an idea , could one use a nylock instead of the castle nut and cotter key if i wanted to tweek the back height a little. has anyone done this before? I'm talking about 3 or 4 rotations max.
That would work fine. Aftermarket pieces use the same. I don't think 3 or 4 turns would lower it a half an inch. Make sure you take the measurements at the frame (not the body).

Just take out the cotter pin, take the load off the spring and backout the castle nut to see what you're after. If you only turn it 3 or 4 threads you may have enough thread left to put on another nut to "lock it" without removing the castle nut at all.

Yes, I think you're a worry wart.
:)

I know, I did exactly the same thing. I have the aftermarket bolts ( I wanted to lower the car) and the left nut is at different height from the right. :censored: The goal is to have the frame level. If you have the means make the adjustment with each corner weighed on a scale.

[jonszr1]

thanx for your help. Being a worrywart goes with my line of work golf pro .got to hit good shots or ya don't eat. lol Where do you measure at on the frame. ordered a service man but its a week away .

[petefias]

thanx for your help. Being a worrywart goes with my line of work golf pro .got to hit good shots or ya don't eat. lol Where do you measure at on the frame. ordered a service man but its a week away .
Hard to describe without pictures, but look for a little horizontal section behind the front wheels and front of the rears. Since you don't have the manual yet for the exact measurements, just measure and compare left and right. The absolute number doesn't matter as much as the difference in your case.

[jonszr1]

thanx pards i found those spots and soon as i am done with thisI'll measure. Is there an aprox figure fr to back (for rake) . Proably should do it with a full tank. I think I'm going to really mess with my head and get the lowering kit so I can get the wheel wells filled up . Is an inch ok to lower.??

[petefias]

thanx pards i found those spots and soon as i am done with thisI'll measure. Is there an aprox figure fr to back (for rake) . Proably should do it with a full tank. I think I'm going to really mess with my head and get the lowering kit so I can get the wheel wells filled up . Is an inch ok to lower.??
'till you get your manual:

Looking at the car from a side:

Front measuring spot is 652 mm (25 11/16") behind the front wheel centerline.

Rear measuring spot is 486 mm (19 1/8") front of the rear wheel centerline.

Shipping weight: coolant filled to capacity, 5.5 gallon fuel

Curb weight: coolant filled to capacity, full tank of fuel

Front height (at measuring spot):

Shipping weight: 195.1 mm
Curb weight: 193.1 mm

Rear height (at measuring spot):

Shipping weight: 208.8 mm
Curb weight: 199.6 mm

These specs are for a MY95 ZR1.

Warning: if you lower the rear an inch without lowering the front you loose the rake. Not sure what all evil things happen without that. :)

[jonszr1]

t5hanx again for your help .got it dialed in. I put a floresent mark on the car on the spots where I measured. have to use a black light to find em , but don't have to measured. On the lowering I amgoing to wait till i get the whole kit . I am toying with just taking it to gulstrand. I hear he does quality work. I nhear the front spring can be a bear . What is a safe amt to lower the car? again thanx for all your help

[petefias]

t5hanx again for your help .got it dialed in. I put a floresent mark on the car on the spots where I measured. have to use a black light to find em , but don't have to measured. On the lowering I amgoing to wait till i get the whole kit . I am toying with just taking it to gulstrand. I hear he does quality work. I nhear the front spring can be a bear . What is a safe amt to lower the car? again thanx for all your help
It really is a question why you want to lower it. If you're after great handling you probably benefit more from coil-overs or at least harder springs, urethane bushings, revalved shocks. If you're after the looks than you can lower it as low as you can stand it (and not scrape on crossing yellow lines).

The front lowering with leaf spring requires the removal of the spring and it is not a 10 minute job. It is doable on jack stands but it will take time.

I think 1" lowering is a good compromise. More than that will make you scrape a lot. Some cars ride higher than others so on those you could lower a little more.

[jonszr1]

thanx again.it really nice to meet helpfull people here. thats how I learn don't have time to be a book worm. I like the idea of 1in lower, yea its for looks. I am more of a straight line guy. would coilovers make a big dif in 60ft times. These cars are not easy to launch. how muchis it to do. is it something i can do or is it better to have done.? again thanx for taking the time to enlighten me

[petefias]

thanx again.it really nice to meet helpfull people here. thats how I learn don't have time to be a book worm. I like the idea of 1in lower, yea its for looks. I am more of a straight line guy. would coilovers make a big dif in 60ft times. These cars are not easy to launch. how muchis it to do. is it something i can do or is it better to have done.? again thanx for taking the time to enlighten me
I'm not much of a 1/4 mile guy, so couldn't advise on the effects of coilovers. It is doable on jackstands, but you need some expertise and tools. No clue what shops would charge on that.

I lowered mine about an inch front and rear. I played with it for a good part of a Saturday if I remember correctly.