New Battery install questions?

[Bell Curve]

Any special things I must watch out for, or is the install straight ahead?

Any tips for a smooth install?

Are there any problems with no juice for a period of time that might play tricks with the eletronics?

I have a AC Delco 75-5MF in now with 685 CCA. Should I replace it with the same one or a different one?

[Z Factor]

The first thing to consider is the size of the battery. Don't go and spend a lot of money on a high amp battery that will not fit. You are probably better off going with an AC Delco again, though there are plenty of other batteries to choose from. I think the replacement AC Delco is 75-A72
To see what others members prefer check out this poll.

http://zr1netregistry.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1351

If you have not changed your battery before, you will find it is not as easy as other cars. That said, it is not rocket science either. I will try to walk you through it as best as I can remember. For this project, you’ll need Torx sockets, a 7mm, 10mm and 13mm socket and ratchet, and a 5/16-inch wrench.

As with any job like this disconnect the battery first.
Next, remove the battery side cover by first opening your door and you will see some small Torx screws that retain part of the rocker molding. You will only need to remove the first two screws.
At the side cover, there are two bolts that retain the back of the cover. Use a 10mm wrench to remove the top bolt in the rear of the panel. Then remove all of the Torx bolts from the top edge of the side panel all the way to the bottom edge of the panel. Then gently pry the rocker molding away so you can see the rear panel bolt. Using your 10mm wrench, loosen the bolt but do not remove it. Then carefully remove the panel. Use a 13mm socket to remove the battery hold-down bolt and clamp, then remove the battery. Clean up the area of any corrosion/debris since you will hopefully not be back again for many years. Then just reverse the process.

Lastly, if you do not want to completely lose power during the change, by a battery back-up that plugs into your cigarette lighter. You can get a small one that is inexpensive, or you can by one of those all in one jobs that also has jump start and charging along with tire inflator, light etc. I use a small one for any battery change I make in any vehicle so you do not have to reprogram settings, codes, etc.

:cheers:

[Bell Curve]

Holy Chilton manual Batman!:thumbsup:

Thanks dude:handshak:

I only got one response on CF and here, but yours rocks with detail from A-Z. :worship: I am going to start hanging here more than CF because people seem to care more here.

[Tom]

On my '90 I don't have to loosen the rocker panel, there is a relieved area that provides enough room to get the 10 mm wrench in to loose the bottom bolt.

[Peaven]

Holy Chilton manual Batman!:thumbsup:

Thanks dude:handshak:

I only got one response on CF and here, but yours rocks with detail from A-Z. :worship: I am going to start hanging here more than CF because people seem to care more here.

I pulled my battery the other night to access the clutch master cylinder, and it is as easy as Jim's (ZFactor) post explains it to be. You shouldn't have any trouble with it at all.:cheers:

[Peaven]

On my '90 I don't have to loosen the rocker panel, there is a relieved area that provides enough room to get the 10 mm wrench in to loose the bottom bolt.

Yep, same here Tom...didn't have to loosen my rocker either (I'm sure keith will have fun with that statement).

[ajaxajax2000]

Now, what about cold winter storage. I'm sure it's been covered elsewhere on this forum, but since there's a battery thread .....?

I'm gonna store my Z cold this winter. Do I remove the battery and keep it warm and continousely charged, or leave it in the car and ..... what??? :confused: :confused: :confused:


TIA

Peter

[GrayZ]

don't take your panel all the way off on the bottom...just loosten it up
and you'll be able to slide the old battery out and the new one in.....the panels tend to be a beatch to get back on straight sometimes..good luck..
you'll know you did good..if it starts again...:mrgreen:

[tomtom72]

I'm just an apprentice here & I'm not trying to make a mountain out of a mole hill but you may want to eye-up a few things while you're in there.

After the Batt is out if you want you can remove the tray & clean it up....it's not that difficult. While the tray is out you can check the airbag sensor mount for any crud & clean it up. Black box about 1" x 2" with a large yellow wire to it is the A/B sensor. I believe Gordon says to use a star washer under the sensor mount bolts(2)...I use die-electric to protect things like this from future corrosion...don't know if it's the cure but I figure it can't hurt.

Also just aft & slightly outboard of the batt is a power distribution block. Some of the cars have the hood pin pocket drain running out onto it....mine was that way & it made a bit of a mess...good time to clean it up & protect the exposed "eye" connectors on the block and re-route the drain away from that stuff. Again, some dielectric grease on the block connections. I also made a rubber flap from a bike tire tube & attached it to the block mount & flapped it over the block...proly a waste of time but it made me feel better as I had a good bit of cleaning to do on the connections. If ya gotta clean up the eyes use a brass or a s/s brush...this way if any bristles are left behind they won't rust.

Just eye-up some of this stuff as the insulation formula for the wiring is prone to degrade seriously with time...I think they changed the codes requirements for automotive wiring later in the C4 run...drying out & cracking is the issue and resistance to chemical action, like acid fumes.

Sorry, not trying to be a pia....just some things I noticed on mine while I was in that neighborhood. Qualifier: at some point a batt leaked badly on the inner surface of the gill panel. I noticed a lot of small "spots" and I had corrosion on the hold down bolt and some in the plastic tray & the bolts that mount the tray to the frame. That's why I was in there in the first place.

:cheers:
Tom

[Kevin]

Now, what about cold winter storage. I'm sure it's been covered elsewhere on this forum, but since there's a battery thread .....?

I'm gonna store my Z cold this winter. Do I remove the battery and keep it warm and continousely charged, or leave it in the car and ..... what??? :confused: :confused: :confused:


TIA

Peter
I leave mine in the car but disconected. She always fires right up

[Corvette95]

Are you replacing the original factory gm battery? If so, I would like your old battery. email
corvette95@charter.net

[93RubyZ]

The first thing to consider is the size of the battery. Don't go and spend a lot of money on a high amp battery that will not fit. You are probably better off going with an AC Delco again, though there are plenty of other batteries to choose from. I think the replacement AC Delco is 75-A72
To see what others members prefer check out this poll.

http://zr1netregistry.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1351

If you have not changed your battery before, you will find it is not as easy as other cars. That said, it is not rocket science either. I will try to walk you through it as best as I can remember. For this project, you’ll need Torx sockets, a 7mm, 10mm and 13mm socket and ratchet, and a 5/16-inch wrench.

As with any job like this disconnect the battery first.
Next, remove the battery side cover by first opening your door and you will see some small Torx screws that retain part of the rocker molding. You will only need to remove the first two screws.
At the side cover, there are two bolts that retain the back of the cover. Use a 10mm wrench to remove the top bolt in the rear of the panel. Then remove all of the Torx bolts from the top edge of the side panel all the way to the bottom edge of the panel. Then gently pry the rocker molding away so you can see the rear panel bolt. Using your 10mm wrench, loosen the bolt but do not remove it. Then carefully remove the panel. Use a 13mm socket to remove the battery hold-down bolt and clamp, then remove the battery. Clean up the area of any corrosion/debris since you will hopefully not be back again for many years. Then just reverse the process.

Lastly, if you do not want to completely lose power during the change, by a battery back-up that plugs into your cigarette lighter. You can get a small one that is inexpensive, or you can by one of those all in one jobs that also has jump start and charging along with tire inflator, light etc. I use a small one for any battery change I make in any vehicle so you do not have to reprogram settings, codes, etc.

:cheers:

Z Factor: I installed a new battery this weekend and used your instructions. They were right on target. Thanks for the great info!

[Z Factor]

I'm glad it is helpful. The next time I change my battery I will take some pictures and add them. Hopefully that will not be for a while though. :wink:

For those poor souls in the north, I'd certainly invest in a Battery Tender to maintain the battery during storage.

:cheers: