Suggestions for Battery Tender

[PhillipsLT5]

Seller/Make/Model # ??

[8cam]

I have a Schumacher 1.5 amp in the 308, works very well.

[Billy Mild]

I use the Harbor Freight one. It works fine for float charger or as a true tender. Its not meant to bring a battery back to life.

[PhillipsLT5]

I am trying to keep it charged for 1 or 2 months

[Karl]

I use a battery tender jr from O'Reilly auto parts.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BTD1/0210123/N0360.oap?ck=Search_N0360_-1_-1&mn=Battery+Tender&mc=BTD&pt=N0360&ppt=C0005

[Billy Mild]

The one from Harbor Freight battery tender would suffice. I use mine for motorcycle batteries and old car batteries. I haven't had any issues. If the battery is below 11 volts you need something different. For maintaining and slight recharging they are fine.

If the battery is sulfated then look for a Battery Minder or CTek charger.

[JimZRyd]

Battery Tender plus here. Picked it up at the museum. Has worked great for years!

[edram454]

battery tender plus can be picked up on ebay for 34 bucks shipped. always have my zr1 on it and my scooter also. Your battery will last forever, or it will seem like it.

ed ramos #3028

[Paul Workman]

For maintenance:

I have the original "smart" charger; the Battery Tender(s) on all but one car. The battery on my wife's 69 C3 has been on the BT for 9 years, come spring, and it still cranks that 11:1 compression L46 like new. These chargers are 800 mA for the single chargers to 1.5 A for the dual output charger (one).

For charging:

For actual charging, I've had an inexpensive, automatic, Black and Decker (smart) charger for over 12 years. It can be configured for several types of batteries (wet, gel, etc) and max charge rates from 4, 10, 20, & 40 amperes, as well as several other battery conditioning modes as well: a decent unit for home/hobby use. It too is a smart charger, in that it will monitor and shut off when the battery is at full charge. And, it will periodically turn on to keep the battery topped off and prevent sulfating. (Also has a de-sulfating mode, if the battery is in such condition to require more than just preventative maintenance.)

For "dead" batteries:

I've had good success reviving batteries that appear to be totally dead, due to leaving the lights on (or the like), by using the old fashioned "dumb" charger: nothing automatic about it. Once the battery takes on enough of a charge to satisfy the threshold level, then the automatic chargers will recognize that fact and take over.

[WARP TEN]

I would suggest getting a float charger from the National Corvette Museum store. That is what I did. It is more expensive than the auto chain stores but you are supporting a great Corvette institution in the process. --Bob

[GOLDCYLON]

Battery Tender plus is in my garage so impressed I bought another for my kids

[PhillipsLT5]

Battery Tender plus ordered, thanks guys

[Paul Workman]

Battery Tender plus ordered, thanks guys

You'll not be disappointed, I'm betting. BTW, the BTs can (and should) be hooked up as much as practical: just after I shut the car down, before I lock the garage doors. The BTs will top off the battery and then revert to the maintenance programming to discourage sulfate from forming. Next to my scanner or maybe the FSM, that is the best tool I bought for the Vettes!

[PhillipsLT5]

Good to know, never used 1, drive the car weekly, but surgery later this month will put me out for at least a month or more

[JimZRyd]

The only time my BT is not on my Z is when I'm driving it or have it pulled out the garage for any reason. Other than that's she's always hooked up. Fires right up like it should every time and sometimes she might sit for a couple of months.

[RussMcB]

Any good suggestions for the best, handy location for the plug?

Thanks.

[JimZRyd]

Any good suggestions for the best, handy location for the plug?

Thanks.

Been wondering about that as well...so far I just use the alligator clips to the terminals. Would love to hear and see a pic if anybody's got a neat way to do this!

[edram454]

What I use is the cigarette lighter charger for the battery tender. extremely easy and you can leave the hood down and the car closed.

ed ramos #3028

[Paul Workman]

What I use is the cigarette lighter charger for the battery tender. extremely easy and you can leave the hood down and the car closed.

ed ramos #3028

Excellent suggestion!:thumbsup:

[PhillipsLT5]

alligator clips, hood up, car near 110 power, all good

[RussMcB]

I like the cigarette lighter suggestion. Thanks.
alligator clips, hood up, car near 110 power, all goodThis works, of course, but one thing I haven't liked about that is the under hood lights are always on (so I've been laying the hood down lightly).

[Dynomite]

I have always disconnected the negative battery terminal if the vehicle is expected to sit for a couple weeks. I am now going with this battery disconnect. Always have full battery power even after a couple months of battery disconnect. No messing with having to have electrical power and hood open or partially closed and no concern about electrical shorts when sitting with power connected (and electrical cords) for a while.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/04ee613c-938d-4097-8632-8ae82f07897f.jpg

[93 Vette]

I have used the Battery Tender Plus, Battery Tender Jr and the Battery Tender International 2 Bank versions for the past 15 years or so. In fact I have about 4 running at any given time in my garage. I use the cigarette lighter adapters for 3 of my cars and a ring terminal harness directly attached to the battery on a 4th vehicle for quick connections. I have even used one in the past to keep the battery in my riding mower charged up by attaching the ring terminal harness directly to the mowers battery.

On the ZR-1 that I recently purchased the previous owner had a battery disconnect terminal attached to the battery. After a few weeks of owning the car I went out to the garage one morning and the car woudn't start at all. Turns out that the battery disconnect went bad and stopped making contact even when in the connected mode. I removed the battery disconnect and all was good again. For now I'll stick with using the Battery Tenders although I like the idea of not having cords running around my garage.

Also, if you do use the alligator clips you can still keep the hood open by removing the under hood light fuse located near the drivers side headlight.

Matt

[RussMcB]

I have always disconnected the negative battery terminal if the vehicle is expected to sit for a couple weeks. I am now going with this battery disconnect. Always have full battery power even after a couple months of battery disconnect. No messing with having to have electrical power and hood open or partially closed and no concern about electrical shorts when sitting with power connected (and electrical cords) for a while.

Well, heck, then. I suppose I could just use one of these. :-)

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/L/4439-001.JPG

[Dynomite]

Well, heck, then. I suppose I could just use one of these. :-)

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/L/4439-001.JPG

Not with side mount battery cables ;)

[RussMcB]

That type of disconnect isn't mounted directly to the battery, It would need cables to and from wherever it is mounted. On race cars they are mounted where the safety workers can get to it quickly, but you could mount it anywhere you wanted on (or inside) the car.

[PhillipsLT5]

I like the cigarette lighter suggestion. Thanks.
This works, of course, but one thing I haven't liked about that is the under hood lights are always on (so I've been laying the hood down lightly).

pull fuse or unplug or pull bulbs

[Paul Workman]

I have always disconnected the negative battery terminal if the vehicle is expected to sit for a couple weeks. I am now going with this battery disconnect. Always have full battery power even after a couple months of battery disconnect. No messing with having to have electrical power and hood open or partially closed and no concern about electrical shorts when sitting with power connected (and electrical cords) for a while.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/04ee613c-938d-4097-8632-8ae82f07897f.jpg

Sulfation: While disconnecting the battery will prevent parasitic discharging, due to "keep alive" loads, etc, the discharging as result of internal chemical interaction between the electrolyte and the lead plates (sulfation) will continue even if the battery is disconnected. (Google Sulfation of lead acid batteries for more details)

So, for best results, it is best to use a Battery Tender (or the like) to keep the sulfate from being able to form in the first place.

Just sayin... ;)

[efnfast]

My Tender is plugged in the outlet over head where the garage door plugs in, so the cords drops straight down. (No cords running around garage.) I did attach the transformer to the ceiling so it wouldn't fall out on the hood of the car. I use the alligator clips. I also keep my lights unplugged. Hope to pick up a set of LED's some day.

[WARP TEN]

My Tender is plugged in the outlet over head where the garage door plugs in, so the cords drops straight down. (No cords running around garage.) I did attach the transformer to the ceiling so it wouldn't fall out on the hood of the car. I use the alligator clips. I also keep my lights unplugged. Hope to pick up a set of LED's some day.
Same with me. I installed a duplex overhead (piped from the old center garage door opener outlet) and plug in the power cord for my lift and an extension cord for the Battery Tender or whatever else I need power for. No cords underfoot.--Bob

[Dynomite]

Sulfation: While disconnecting the battery will prevent parasitic discharging, due to "keep alive" loads, etc, the discharging as result of internal chemical interaction between the electrolyte and the lead plates (sulfation) will continue even if the battery is disconnected. (Google Sulfation of lead acid batteries for more details)

So, for best results, it is best to use a Battery Tender (or the like) to keep the sulfate from being able to form in the first place.

Just sayin... ;)

I googled and found lots of web sites trying to sell me Battery Tenders :D

If you make sure your battery is charged (over 80%) before disconnecting negative cable, Sulfation is minimized.
My batteries last over 4-5 years and longer with no issues. And they fire the LT5 right up when reconnected.
I have noticed no other issues and that is why I am trying a disconnect switch setting aside the 5/16 ratchet box wrench.
That disconnect switch is also kind of handy when working on any electrical issues on the ZR1 so it has a dual purpose.

I am also just saying ;)

[WARP TEN]

I googled and found lots of web sites trying to sell me Battery Tenders :D.....

Don't forget that the Corvette Museum sells Battery Tenders. I recommend that if you are planning to buy one, get it there. Maybe a little more expensive than AutoZone but supporting a great institution. I bought mine there several years ago.--Bob

[JimZRyd]

Don't forget that the Corvette Museum sells Battery Tenders. I recommend that if you are planning to buy one, get it there. Maybe a little more expensive than AutoZone but supporting a great institution. I bought mine there several years ago.--Bob

Yep! That's where I picked mine up at the Gathering 2013:handshak:

[CamP]

If you want the cadillac of fully automatic battery trickle chargers, get an Interacter. They are made in Connecticut. http://interacter.com/about-us/

Everything else is made in China now.

[-=Jeff=-]

I have been using an Auto Meter one for close to 20 years without any issues

[Roadster]

Question for Battery Tender Plus use???

Just want to make sure I hook this up correctly. Received mine the other day, and would like to know if the correct way is to hook up "P" clip to the positive terminal and the "N" clip to a metal ground instead of the negative terminal. Then, again if I disconnect both terminals and install my "dummy" attachments, I can then hook up to the battery directly???
Just don't want mess up the electrical system on our engine.....
Thanks.........

[Paul Workman]

Question for Battery Tender Plus use???

Just want to make sure I hook this up correctly. Received mine the other day, and would like to know if the correct way is to hook up "P" clip to the positive terminal and the "N" clip to a metal ground instead of the negative terminal. Then, again if I disconnect both terminals and install my "dummy" attachments, I can then hook up to the battery directly???
Just don't want mess up the electrical system on our engine.....
Thanks.........

The BT clips I'm familiar with have a red (positive) and a black (negative) grips on the clips, or on the battery terminal connectors; whichever you choose.

As for the negative connection, because our cars are negative grounded, you can fasten the negative connection to the (-) battery terminal (preferred) or to the frame or engine block - whatever.

If otherwise unmarked, by measuring the DC voltage on the charger clips or whatever, if the DC voltage reading is (+), then the red lead on the meter is connected to the (+) charger lead. Otherwise the opposite is true.

IIRC, the BT is protected against accidentally crossing the leads up (with a diode). And, it has been a while, but I believe in the operating instructions it explains what the indication is, should you cross the leads up.

Battery Tender (or their equivalent) are the best thing to happen to seasonal machinery; Vettes, motorcycles, boats, lawn mowers, etc. (next to "ONE BITE" spread around the garage to keep mice at bay!!:censored:

[Roadster]

The BT clips I'm familiar with have a red (positive) and a black (negative) grips on the clips, or on the battery terminal connectors; whichever you choose.

As for the negative connection, because our cars are negative grounded, you can fasten the negative connection to the (-) battery terminal (preferred) or to the frame or engine block - whatever.

If otherwise unmarked, by measuring the DC voltage on the charger clips or whatever, if the DC voltage reading is (+), then the red lead on the meter is connected to the (+) charger lead. Otherwise the opposite is true.

IIRC, the BT is protected against accidentally crossing the leads up (with a diode). And, it has been a while, but I believe in the operating instructions it explains what the indication is, should you cross the leads up.

Battery Tender (or their equivalent) are the best thing to happen to seasonal machinery; Vettes, motorcycles, boats, lawn mowers, etc. (next to "ONE BITE" spread around the garage to keep mice at bay!!:censored:

Thanks for the reply Paul, although the instructions recommend hooking up the "N" clip to a ground as opposed to the "N" terminal itself, just wanted to make sure I get it right with this unit.
Having had and still have my over 30 year old trickle charge, which works great. You always had to unplug the plug from the alternator or disconnect the terminals from the battery itself before using it, otherwise you would have electrical complications.
But technology have come a long way since then........

[PhillipsLT5]

Very helpful on phone

Deltran USA, LLC
801 International Speedway Blvd.
DeLand, FL 32724
(386) 736-7900
(877) 456-7901
service@batterytender.comBusiness Hours:
Monday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm
Tuesday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm
Wednesday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm
Thursday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm
Friday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm

[Roadster]

Very helpful on phone

Deltran USA, LLC
801 International Speedway Blvd.
DeLand, FL 32724
(386) 736-7900
(877) 456-7901
service@batterytender.comBusiness Hours:
Monday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm
Tuesday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm
Wednesday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm
Thursday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm
Friday: 8:30 am - 4:30 pm

Thanks Phil for the info, everything worked out fine....:)

Done deal!!! took 11 hours for the ZR-1 battery to fully charge, I am in the green now. Just have to decide if I want to leave it connected during the week as I keep the Z covered in the garage. Or maybe just hook it up during the weekends......:rolleyes: Decisions, decisions......:icon_boun

All in all, very happy with the BTP, works great, a good purchase....
and good info in this thread...........

[Paul Workman]

Thanks Phil for the info, everything worked out fine....:)

Done deal!!! took 11 hours for the ZR-1 battery to fully charge, I am in the green now. Just have to decide if I want to leave it connected during the week as I keep the Z covered in the garage. Or maybe just hook it up during the weekends......:rolleyes: Decisions, decisions......:icon_boun

All in all, very happy with the BTP, works great, a good purchase....
and good info in this thread...........

In short, the BT is designed to be left on whenever the battery is not in use. In fact, the monitoring and replenishment and sulfate mitigating features is what separates the (BT) from the (dumb) "trickle chargers". Obviously, it will do the battery no good if the (BT or the like) charger is not connected.

FWIW, Except when driving the cars or being serviced/painted, etc., I have had a (800 mA) BT connected to one battery (the C3 Vette) for going on 9 years, and another (the ZR-1) in its 7th year: both* crank like new.

*Both batteries are just Walmart's high-end automotive, maintenance free batteries.

THAT SAID...

The Optima is a a horse of a different color. You'd need to check with the manufacturer of the (BT) to see if it is applicable or adaptible to that battery.:confused:

[Roadster]

In short, the BT is designed to be left on whenever the battery is not in use. In fact, the monitoring and replenishment and sulfate mitigating features is what separates the (BT) from the (dumb) "trickle chargers". Obviously, it will do the battery no good if the (BT or the like) charger is not connected.

FWIW, Except when driving the cars or being serviced/painted, etc., I have had a (800 mA) BT connected to one battery (the C3 Vette) for going on 9 years, and another (the ZR-1) in its 7th year: both* crank like new.

*Both batteries are just Walmart's high-end automotive, maintenance free batteries.

THAT SAID...

The Optima is a a horse of a different color. You'd need to check with the manufacturer of the (BT) to see if it is applicable or adaptible to that battery.:confused:

I hear you there Paul.......my concern is that I keep he Z covered in the garage, but I imagine that should not be a problem, as the BT unit would be outside of the vehicle....just have to figure the best way to do it....or I could leave it inside on the floor and leave a window open and still keep the car covered...:)

[max76]

I have a battery tender connected on the battery too.
Always connected when the Z is in the garage, the car is always covered...
The BT must be always connect to the battery,his job is keep the correct charge of the battery and keep it always ready to use

[93 Vette]

Just use a cigarette lighter adapter and run it out the bottom of the door and then shut the door. Then place the car cover on the car. That's what I do.

Matt

[Roadster]

I have a battery tender connected on the battery too.
Always connected when the Z is in the garage, the car is always covered...
The BT must be always connect to the battery,his job is keep the correct charge of the battery and keep it always ready to use

Just use a cigarette lighter adapter and run it out the bottom of the door and then shut the door. Then place the car cover on the car. That's what I do.

Matt

Right now the car is covered and the BT is on.....Not that it matters much, but do most of you connect directly to the "P" & "N" terminals as opposed to the "P" terminal and a part of the metal structure?
I notice that when I unplugged the unit, for about a minute to plug into a different outlet, its charge went down for a few moments, then within a minute or two, steady green light once again.....:)
And it is cold here, only in the 20's today, right now 14 degrees......

Thanks for the tips......will have to get the cig light adapter.......

[RussMcB]

BT needs to come up with a new wireless model. We can't be bothered with old-fashioned wires and clips.

[max76]

Right now the car is covered and the BT is on.....Not that it matters much, but do most of you connect directly to the "P" & "N" terminals as opposed to the "P" terminal and a part of the metal structure?
I notice that when I unplugged the unit, for about a minute to plug into a different outlet, its charge went down for a few moments, then within a minute or two, steady green light once again.....:)
And it is cold here, only in the 20's today, right now 14 degrees......

Thanks for the tips......will have to get the cig light adapter.......


My garage is cold too...I always connect it directly to the battery pole...never the negative on the frame!!! Also because I have a battery saver, like in page 2 or 3...

[batchman]

A few years ago I won a CTek bt at an event. It's been great at keeping my little teeny battery in play a few years, I use it whenever the car is going to sit more than a week or two (like always). I'd rarely get two years out of one of these things but so far so good...

I clip on to the positive battery lead, with the ground clipped to the engine. The clips are fussy on mine as I have regular metric hex bolts.

Cheers,
- Jeff

[Paul Workman]

A few years ago I won a CTek bt at an event. It's been great at keeping my little teeny battery in play a few years, I use it whenever the car is going to sit more than a week or two (like always). I'd rarely get two years out of one of these things but so far so good...

I clip on to the positive battery lead, with the ground clipped to the engine. The clips are fussy on mine as I have regular metric hex bolts.

Cheers,
- Jeff

FWIW, I've run an 800mA Battery Tender unit since 2002, replacing it once after it was zapped by a surge during a thunderstorm. I added another 800mA tender 9 years ago and it hasn't failed yet. And, I acquired a dual output unit (used) and so far it still runs: Like a TIMEX watch, they "take a lickin' and keep on tickin'"!

I don't know if the BT (brand) units are mil-spec or not, but rugged the ones I've been using (the 800mA BTs) have proven to be - at least at my "ranch".:cheers:

[Dynomite]

I know you guys do NOT want to hear this but.......:p

I am having soooo much fun with Battery Disconnect I cannot stop suggesting it :D

If I want to work on something electrical......not fire up the LT5 for a couple weeks.......it is SOOOOOOO SIMPLE to just lift the hood and turn the knob a couple turns :thumbsup:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/9b113ff3-2c27-4600-aba8-a9f3456647a4.jpg

There.....I said it :drunken_s
While you guys are tripping over your Battery Tenders :sign10:

[A26B]

I know you guys do NOT want to hear this but.......:p

I am having soooo much fun with Battery Disconnect I cannot stop suggesting it :D

If I want to work on something electrical......not fire up the LT5 for a couple weeks.......it is SOOOOOOO SIMPLE to just lift the hood and turn the knob a couple turns :thumbsup:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/9b113ff3-2c27-4600-aba8-a9f3456647a4.jpg

There.....I said it :drunken_s
While you guys are tripping over your Battery Tenders :sign10:

I use the same battery disconnect device & wouldn't be without it.

I have my Battery Tender leads permanently hooked up with eyelet connectors at the battery end, using studs in place of bolt. To drive, just a couple of twists on the knob & unplug the battery tender in-line connector located about 12" from battery end of leads. I secure the 12" lead it with the plug cap protector looped around the cruise control vacuum line.

[Roadster]

I know you guys do NOT want to hear this but.......:p

I am having soooo much fun with Battery Disconnect I cannot stop suggesting it :D

If I want to work on something electrical......not fire up the LT5 for a couple weeks.......it is SOOOOOOO SIMPLE to just lift the hood and turn the knob a couple turns :thumbsup:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/9b113ff3-2c27-4600-aba8-a9f3456647a4.jpg

There.....I said it :drunken_s
While you guys are tripping over your Battery Tenders :sign10:

Well that is a fine idea, but I will have to say that I started the Z today for the first time in about 2 1/2 weeks after hooking up the BT Plus.....have to say that the LT5 fired up in 2 seconds after turning the key and oil pressure was up within 4 to 5 seconds. And yes it is about 44 degrees today and not the sub freezing temps we been having. After the engine warmed up, did a couple of restarts, and fired right up each time, and no chain rattle......what's up with that???
And I only tripped once in that time over the cord....will find a better location soon........
The disconnect could be an enhancement to the BT, but it is good to know that your battery is at a full charge when not in use......still very glad I made the purchase....

[edram454]

I used to use this and I do like it when I had my c3 corvette. but... with my zr1 I dont want to be setting my radio every time I get in the car since I am cutting off the battery every time I turn that knob. It is a easy solution without spending much money but you dont really help you battery at all as it sits over time.
ed ramos #3028

[Dynomite]

I used to use this and I do like it when I had my c3 corvette. but... with my zr1 I dont want to be setting my radio every time I get in the car since I am cutting off the battery every time I turn that knob. It is a easy solution without spending much money but you dont really help you battery at all as it sits over time.
ed ramos #3028

You either disconnect the battery or leave it connected with a battery tender :cheers:

A Battery Disconnect is SIMPLER ;)

You do loose the radio memory and either choice helps the battery maintain charge :thumbsup:

In either case you are Tending the Battery.

The Disconnect has other handy features in that you can Disconnect the Battery for ZR1 electrical maintenance (Changing out a CHIP for example). Or.....you can Disconnect the Battery and then leave the ignition switch ON and with the Disconnect handy under the hood turn power on to check lights, vacuum pump, fuel pump, and more. And if you want to reset some Aberrant Codes the Disconnect is perfect. Every time the ZR1 sits for a long time my Aberrant Codes are reset.

No Power required to be left on in garage, No extension Cords, No wires to trip over, A theft Safety Feature as the ZR1 is Dead.....lets see.....I think there are more advantages also.

Just thought of another advantage......if you want to tend to your battery out in your driveway or at the curb.....Battery Disconnect is a lot better than stringing together several extension cords :sign10:

And....the Battery Disconnect sits perfectly with plenty room under the hood and very easy to get to without even raising the hood much more than a few inches.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/9b113ff3-2c27-4600-aba8-a9f3456647a4.jpg

[RussMcB]

You do loose the radio memory and either choice helps the battery maintain charge :thumbsup:Sounds like a pain resetting six radio stations every time (so I'm guessing you don't bother).

I went with the BT cigarette lighter method (suggested earlier in this thread, I think). It is semi-convenient (no need to open the hood), but there is still a wire to step over. It's a pretty good comprimise while I'm waiting for the wireless version. :-)

[Dynomite]

Sounds like a pain resetting six radio stations every time (so I'm guessing you don't bother).

I went with the BT cigarette lighter method (suggested earlier in this thread, I think). It is semi-convenient (no need to open the hood), but there is still a wire to step over. It's a pretty good comprimise while I'm waiting for the wireless version. :-)

I do not bother with radio as I play CDs or I just quickly select a station and leave it there without putting that station into memory :cheers:

I listen mostly to my engine :sign10:

[mike100]

haha. I think these cars look terrible with the antenna mast up so I only listen to the radio on longer trips. Mostly I just listen to the engine and ZF whine on trips down to the beach or on gas station runs.

[Dynomite]

I use the same battery disconnect device & wouldn't be without it.

I have my Battery Tender leads permanently hooked up with eyelet connectors at the battery end, using studs in place of bolt. To drive, just a couple of twists on the knob & unplug the battery tender in-line connector located about 12" from battery end of leads. I secure the 12" lead it with the plug cap protector looped around the cruise control vacuum line.

I see those Battery Tender Disconnects on Ebay with the eyelet connectors......

I like my Disconnect with knob that requires NO 5/16 open end wrench (no tools of any kind to function once installed). And that Disconnect fits so PERFECTLY on the Negative Battery Post under the Hood.

You guys that mess around with Battery Tenders should just try a Disconnect for a while....just experiment....
Just Do It......I dare you....you will not go back to the electrical entanglement :sign10:

I have Disconnected Batteries all winter long on many vehicles for a long time (Disconnected in Dec). And they ALL fire right up when the Batteries are Re-Connected in April. I do make sure there is a FULL CHARGE in December not running down the battery on those COOOOOLD Dec mornings just before I Disconnect the Battery.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/9b113ff3-2c27-4600-aba8-a9f3456647a4.jpg

haha. I think these cars look terrible with the antenna mast up so I only listen to the radio on longer trips. Mostly I just listen to the engine and ZF whine on trips down to the beach or on gas station runs.
Your ZF whines :icon_scra
I cannot hear my ZF.....just the engine purring....such a perfect engine sound only the LT5 produces.
Especially with SW Headers/Exhaust.

The Hot Rodders At Applebees last night were looking at one of their Hot Rods until I drove by with Bad Z....:D :D
The Sound says.......Do NOT even think about it :sign10:

[A26B]

I turned on the radio when I bought my Zee, have not listened to it since. I like the sounds and feel of the car and engine, the driving experience, seeing everything around me and the uncluttered, impulsive thoughts that that come from the entire experience.

I like music, but I don't feel the desire for any other sensory input when I drive the ZR-1.

BTW, I forgot to mention that it's so danged loud, you couldn't hear the radio anyway.

[Dynomite]

Oh......just have to say this.....for those guys that use Battery Tenders :)

I connected Negative Battery Cables on two ZR1s after sitting ALL winter (battery negative cable disconnected) since Dec and several other vehicles. Guess what.....they ALL fired right up like battery was in new condition. SO THERE.

The batteries were all charged up in December and seemed fully charged when the ZR1s fired up tonight.....and they fired up within 3 seconds with full oil pressure a couple seconds later. :thumbsup:

I am installing the Battery Disconnect on the ZR1s tomorrow after proving the concept this winter (and every winter) :D

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/9b113ff3-2c27-4600-aba8-a9f3456647a4.jpg

[Paul Workman]

Oh......just have to say this.....for those guys that use Battery Tenders :)

I connected Negative Battery Cables on two ZR1s after sitting ALL winter (battery negative cable disconnected) since Dec and several other vehicles. Guess what.....they ALL fired right up like battery was in new condition. SO THERE.

The batteries were all charged up in December and seemed fully charged when the ZR1s fired up tonight.....and they fired up within 3 seconds with full oil pressure a couple seconds later. :thumbsup:

I am installing the Battery Disconnect on the ZR1s tomorrow after proving the concept this winter (and every winter) :D

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite11/9b113ff3-2c27-4600-aba8-a9f3456647a4.jpg

That's up to you. But, the switch will not prevent discharging, nor stop sulfate formation either. A switch will only shut off the normal "keep alive" current, but do nothing to maintain the battery at its optimum. I recon each has to chose the practical advantages vs. disadvantages and go from there. (BTW, in addition to loosing the radio pre-sets, the ECM closed loop memory is erased too. Not a biggie, I suppose, as it is self-recoverable within a short drive time.)

[Dynomite]

Just have to confirm after using the Battery Disconnect Switches on several vehicles for a relatively long period of time and after probably 100 disconnects on several ZR-1s.

I now have the Battery Disconnect Switch on four ZR-1s and often disconnect the battery when the ZR-1 will not be driven the next day. The ZR-1s all fire right up no matter if the battery is disconnected for two months or five months. There is NO Sulfation on any battery terminals as I always make sure the Batteries are disconnected in a fully charged condition.

The Battery Disconnect Switch comes as close as one can get to "Maintaining The Battery at its Optimum Charge". I do loose Radio Presets but only use the CD anyway.

There is an additional ADVANTAGE not mentioned (I think)......Disconnecting the Battery Erases Codes that do not seem to reappear nearly as often if at all.

When Battery Reconnected and the Engine Started, the Idle functioned exactly as before Settling into the 850 range within about 5 seconds of starting after an initial Higher Idle Speed. So the ECM definitely remembered that. The CHIP Information is NEVER Erased.

Try the Battery Disconnect....you might like it :D
The Battery Disconnect Switch TIPS (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-8.html#post1587653767)
I have tried Battery Tenders and do not like them as I do NOT like having to plug them into an outlet or having to park the ZR1 near an outlet. Or worse having to route an extension cord around other equipment and having to keep Main Power on in the Shed/Garage just to support a Battery Tender. I also do not like Unattended Electrical Power plugged into the ZR1 just in case of a Short in any particular Component or electrical corrosion of that component because it is in a LONG TERM HOT Unattended condition.

ALSO....what better Anti Theft than to have your hood locked and Battery Disconnected.

With the Battery Disconnect you can Disconnect your Battery as often as you like without wearing out the Original Battery Negative Terminal on either the Battery or on the Negative Cable Connector. I now have the Battery Disconnect Switch on four ZR-1s and often disconnect the battery when the ZR-1 will not be driven the next day. The ZR-1s all fire right up no matter if the battery is disconnected for two months or five months. There is NO Sulfation on any battery terminals as I always make sure the Batteries are disconnected in a fully charged condition.

And the Battery Disconnect Switch is INEXPENSIVE with FREE shipping to your door :thumbsup:
Side Mount Battery Disconnect Switch (https://www.ebay.com/itm/SIDE-MOUNT-BATTERY-TERMINAL-BATTERIES-CUT-OFF-DISCONNECT-SAFETY-SWITCH/363233279074?hash=item549263fc62:g:ZnsAAOSwhZFf5Q2 R)

Over 1,700 that use the Battery Disconnect cannot be wrong :D

[Fully Vetted]

Sounds like a pain resetting six radio stations every time (so I'm guessing you don't bother).

I went with the BT cigarette lighter method (suggested earlier in this thread, I think). It is semi-convenient (no need to open the hood), but there is still a wire to step over. It's a pretty good comprimise while I'm waiting for the wireless version. :-)

I hooked up my BT, ran the quick disconnect cable out the side gill and shut the hood. When I want to go for a drive I just unplug it and stuff the cable (only 3-4 inches) inside the gill, fire it up and leave. When I get back I can usually just reach right inside the gill and pull the cable back out. I rarely have to open my hood to mess with my BT.