OBX vs Stainless Works

[LGAFF]

OBX LT-5 header(top) next to a stainless works(bottom/coated).....about two inches difference in primary length and the collector on the stainless works is 6"inlength to the OBX 4.5". Primary is 2" on OBX vs 2" on the Stainlessworks, although the OBX measures slightly smaller(I had to measure with a metal tape measure)
OBX is nice $515 shipped/I think Stainless works is 2X that price

Hate to coat the OBX, nice piece, they even port match the primary to the flange.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN5975.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/lgaff/media/DSCN5975.jpg.html)

[LGAFF]

OBX: headers are tuned and tested for maximum performance. Utilizing race proven designs from the runners to the collector, each header promises significant improvement over the stock system while still being fit for daily driving. All headers come with a limited lifetime warranty.

◘ Primary Port Diameter: 2"
◘ collectors 3" slip fit into Stock

Stainless Works
Factory Connect Features stainless steel headers with 2'' primaries, 3'' slip fit collectors, 3'' ball socket, 3'' bend and clamps to fit factory ZR1 connection points. Fits factory exhaust or Stainless Works 3'' exhaust systems part# ZR1C or ZR1S.

Our Performance Connect includes stainless steel headers with 2'' primaries and 3'' slip fit collectors with 3'' lead-pipes to fit stainless works 3'' ZR1 exhaust system. Dyno proven 30 RWHP gain over stock. For sure with Stainless Works exhaust systems part #ZR1CHAM-SW or ZR1STUBESW.

[Schrade]

Anyone do performance comparison tests?

http://www.hercegbosna.org/forum/images/smilies/a040s.gif


ed.:
I went with OBX 'cause that's what Jeff [Shrek] had in front of the 3" PE hardware I got from him...

[XfireZ51]

The OBX almost look like shorty headers in comparison. Would like to see some comps on similar motors.

[LGAFF]

It would be interesting to test....some allege that the shorter tubes are beneficial in higher RPM application...also the 2" primaries are big for the CI of the engine....but over 5500RPM there is a benefit to a larger primary

[mike100]

It is common knowledge that the longer tubes will have more mid range punch, but I will not speculate if either set would have an advantage on peak hp (everything else on the engine being equal).

sort of like LS7 manifolds on an LS2/3. They will make more power, but they don't do much for you below 4000 rpm. At least headers wake the car up over a wider speed range with some good old fashioned torque increase.

[LGAFF]

I did speak to a guy at Byron once that said he ran better 1/4 mile times with smaller diameter headers

[edram454]

the long tube header was designed for street cars to have a performance header exhaust. The shorter the exhaust has to go the more performance it will gain. Thats why dragsters have zoomies and race cars dump right at the collector. In the case of these two headers since the exhaust has to travel to the end of the mufflers not quite sure which one would give more power. The stainless works looks well made but at 2x the price the obx would be the ticket for me. If the obx are stainless I would not coat them, if not then I would put a coating.

[LGAFF]

The OBX are 304 Stainless...I just asked a friend of mine who builds race cars and actually has won his class at the Daytona 24hrs...he does not coat stainless either...they only coat mild steel.

[KILLSHOTS]

Mine were definitely pretty when I got them. But I coated them anyway; gotta do it, there's so much heat under the C4's hood already, and when you remove the heat-dampening capability of the OEM aluminum shrouds?????

My car seems to run slightly cooler than it did with the OEM manifolds. If I hadn't coated them, I'd speculate that it would be quite a bit hotter under the hood. JMHO.

[XfireZ51]

My Watsons are 1 7/8" primary tubes. I have heard Marc say there is not much diff between 1 7/8 and 2" primaries re: power.

[edram454]

being smaller primaries you should see a little more torque which is not bad for the zr1. I would imagine only a small torque gain. Probably wont see much difference up high. It isnt until you have a deep breather stroker where you will need the larger primary tubes definately. Watsons are good.

[Karl]

I plan on going on the same mustang dyno I did last year when I made 342 whp stock with my upgrades later this month.

I run the OBX headers and do not think they are shorty headers. Shorter than Stainless Works and others yes but shorty no.

Pete showed me a bunch of headers in his garage not to long ago and yes they are the shortest of all full length headers out there for the LT-5.

These are shorty headers when looking at length:

http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/77A2837A2317381.aspx?kc=ffsku&kpid=10190-2837-70-1340&k_clickid=73ed469f-5c7b-2c69-03ba-000032aab0a7&k_trackingid=274x&kpid=10190-2837-70-1340&gclid=CIWklc_QxsACFQctaQodvhoA2w

I do not see the OBX as shorty headers since they run the full length of the motor and do not stop at the top of the oil pan like the above.

I coated mine and for the price you really can't beat them. With a 3" full exhaust I do not see the OBX headers being restrictive for maximizing hp at all.

Maybe a 415 but a 350, no.

[Schrade]

Mine were definitely pretty when I got them. But I coated them anyway; gotta do it, there's so much heat under the C4's hood already, and when you remove the heat-dampening capability of the OEM aluminum shrouds?????

My car seems to run slightly cooler than it did with the OEM manifolds. If I hadn't coated them, I'd speculate that it would be quite a bit hotter under the hood. JMHO.

Slightly?

I heard my fans come on the first time the other day. Last Winter, after top end cleanup, it took about 12 minutes for fans to come on while idling.

There is NO doubt that MINE is running SUBSTANTIALLY cooler. I'm guessing 10 - 12 degrees cooler, PROBABLY more.

Someone else here couldn't go along much with that......

[KILLSHOTS]

Looking at the comparison between the pics in Lee's OP, I just can't see how much HP or LB/FT is to be gained...especially on a stock or nearly-stock displacement LT-5. Then, consider that the SW are more than twice the price...

[LGAFF]

I talked to a few folks and the improvement of the 304 stainless really offsets the heat shield loss....can always through a header blanket on later

[KILLSHOTS]

Slightly?

I heard my fans come on the first time the other day. Last Winter, after top end cleanup, it took about 12 minutes for fans to come on while idling.

There is NO doubt that MINE is running SUBSTANTIALLY cooler. I'm guessing 10 - 12 degrees cooler, PROBABLY more.

Someone else here couldn't go along much with that......
Yep Schrade, I had my stat drilled at the same time as the OBX install, so I don't know what accounts for what. But, my car is definitely running cooler since...probably the same 10-12 degrees that you're stating.

[oricale]

I have had full OBX exhaust since 2011, and my white car runs VERY cool, I didn't coat mine.

Not sure if it's the settings in the chip or the headers but it's rare if the car gets above 165(est)

[XfireZ51]

If your motor is not getting to 80C or 176F, it's not learning and adjusting fueling in Closed Loop. IMO, there's no advantage to running cooler than that. Unless you've made mods to the calibration, you are likely running richer than necessary.

Karl,

I never said the OBX is a shorty header. I said they ALMOST look like shortys compared to the SWs.

[oricale]

Xfire,

I'll have to see what temp I am Actually running because I DO have a rich running problem.

[XfireZ51]

Xfire,

I'll have to see what temp I am Actually running because I DO have a rich running problem.

By any chance, have you relocated your MAT sensor?

[rkreigh]

obx headers look really good to me with the big collector volume and I'm a fan of the 2" primaries too

can't beat em for the price, love the polished finish

anyone want to buy some old LPE headers?

time for me to update me thinks and I'll tell you if they make any power as it will be tune and dyno time!!

[Schrade]

What's the weight difference?

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN5975.jpg

[XfireZ51]

obx headers look really good to me with the big collector volume and I'm a fan of the 2" primaries too

can't beat em for the price, love the polished finish

anyone want to buy some old LPE headers?

time for me to update me thinks and I'll tell you if they make any power as it will be tune and dyno time!!

Ron,

What do the LPEs look like?

[rkreigh]

pretty sure these headers are the original ones and have done 86k hard miles

they are going to need to be blasted and recoated and have some scratching on the bottom so cosmetically they aren't the best

I think they have the emissions fittings though. I'll try and get some pics up on the lift

not in any hurry, wouldn't take them off until I have the new OBX in hand

the LSV is a key transpo right now until the weather turns ugly

I try to drive it often, and do!! put about 3k miles on the ZR-1 recently and I want to keep up the pace, the car is a blast

[Schrade]

Wouldn't LPE's installed pipes be better than OBX hardware?

If not, how [not] so?

Gotta' be someone here who's THE exhaust authority...

[5ABI VT]

Theyre definitely not a shorty header but that term is loosely thrown around. I think theyre great bang for the buck. I have the stainless works and I was disappointed that a different option connect had a longer collector than mine but what I researched told me that longer primaries slowed down the flow and scavenging can also be affected.

Do the obx have a spike as well in the collector? someone commented that it had a large volume collector.. that in my opinion is not ideal. I think of a water slide. You would come down fast and hitting the large pool at the end would be like exhaust flow going from a primary into a large volume collector. I wish someone would produce a collector that necked down to 2.5 or 2.75 and back to 3" like the LG that they make for c5/6+

[Schrade]

Spike? Like for laminar flow?

Isn't that what SCAVENGING facilitates? One pipe is letting OFF from blow, inducing 'vacuum', in the collector, relative to the adjacent pipe, ???

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bvQ5fcWlH80/U2AYr-wlpYI/AAAAAAAAEEk/c7YHlFJrJzo/s1024/IMG_6328.JPG

[Hog]

pretty sure these headers are the original ones and have done 86k hard miles

they are going to need to be blasted and recoated and have some scratching on the bottom so cosmetically they aren't the best

I think they have the emissions fittings though. I'll try and get some pics up on the lift

not in any hurry, wouldn't take them off until I have the new OBX in hand

the LSV is a key transpo right now until the weather turns ugly

I try to drive it often, and do!! put about 3k miles on the ZR-1 recently and I want to keep up the pace, the car is a blast

I would love to see a 2000-7000+ dyno run of the LPE and other header manufacturer, esp. if stepping up in collector diameter.

Your current system has to be working quite well for your 505rwhp power numbers.

[LGAFF]

One side kind of tight with the bolt holes

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN5976.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/lgaff/media/DSCN5976.jpg.html)

[LGAFF]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN5991.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/lgaff/media/DSCN5991.jpg.html)

[USAZR1]

Dumb question maybe but where is the best place to buy the OBX headers?

[LGAFF]

Racing Parts Depot....$515 Shipped with gaskets

[Karl]

Racing Parts Depot....$515 Shipped with gaskets


Yep that's where I got mine from. I did not use the OBX gaskets though.

[KILLSHOTS]

Dumb question maybe but where is the best place to buy the OBX headers?
Yep, the OBX gaskets are just silly. I have a set of new copper gaskets and new Stage 8 locking header bolts that I'd part with for a very reasonable price.

EDIT: guess I should add a price or risk being flagged. I'd like to get $100 shipped, but I'll listen to an offer. They're $60+ gaskets and $80+ bolts.

[Billy Mild]

What about amazon for the headers?

[USAZR1]

What about amazon for the headers?


$550 on Amazon.

[Marc Haibeck]

The OBX headers are copies of Stainless Works headers with catalysts. They have shorter primary pipes and shorter collectors to make room for the catalysts.

Lee's picture of the OBX header does not include the extension pipe that makes the OBX header the same length as the Stainless Works header so that the OE exhaust system will bolt on. The extension looks like a catalyst but it does not have a substrate, it's hollow.

I have found that short LT5 headers add about 22 hp verses 25 hp for long tube headers.

The Stainless Works long tube headers have primary pipes that are about 24 inches long. According to exhaust pulse tuning theory they tune maximum torque at about 8000 rpm. To get the length correct for the LT5's maximum torque at about 5000 rpm the primary tubes would need to be about 36 inches long. Since it's not practical to have such a length we are stuck with headers that add power only by reducing back pressure rather than by pulse tuning.

I have never purchased OBX headers. I buy Stainless Works headers because I would rather have my money go to the nice guys in Ohio rather than China.

[edram454]

good response. did not know obx was chinese. should have guessed.

[Corbusa]

Anyone have a price on Corey Henderson's headers ?? I have a new sett of OBX and they seem fine esp. for the price , but If is worth the expense to get CH or SW I'd head that direction, and sell the OBX
I have a X pipe and all is connected to the factory cats system ( at this point ) Do any of the headers end in a better location than others for easy fitment?.

[LGAFF]

I would not think switching from OBX to another header worth the money spent, but that's a personal decision....

[5ABI VT]

I posted about this in my header install thread . I was disappointed that I had the shorter headers from SW when I saw many photos of the longer ones online. Turns out stainless works does it to fit the high flow cats to bolt up to the factory cat back or an aftermarket exhaust (that I had) that bolts to the factory cats. I realized this before I installed them but kept them because if I went with the longer ones I would need to fab connection pipes or eliminate the cats.

If it bothers me enough perhaps over the winter I may ask SW to build me a longer pair and I'll ask them to put a burns or quality merge collector on the ends. Then I can drive to my exhaust guy , put on the headers and he can cut/fab what's needed on the corsa to fit.

Here's my stubby SWs beside fact manifold.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/Header%20Install%20zr1/2A8277B4-D754-4790-8B01-3180B8B870F7_zpsv3ndznp4.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/Header%20Install%20zr1/2A8277B4-D754-4790-8B01-3180B8B870F7_zpsv3ndznp4.jpg.html)

[ZZZZZR1]

The OBX headers are copies of Stainless Works headers with catalysts. They have shorter primary pipes and shorter collectors to make room for the catalysts.

Lee's picture of the OBX header does not include the extension pipe that makes the OBX header the same length as the Stainless Works header so that the OE exhaust system will bolt on. The extension looks like a catalyst but it does not have a substrate, it's hollow.

I have found that short LT5 headers add about 22 hp verses 25 hp for long tube headers.

The Stainless Works long tube headers have primary pipes that are about 24 inches long. According to exhaust pulse tuning theory they tune maximum torque at about 8000 rpm. To get the length correct for the LT5's maximum torque at about 5000 rpm the primary tubes would need to be about 36 inches long. Since it's not practical to have such a length we are stuck with headers that add power only by reducing back pressure rather than by pulse tuning.

I have never purchased OBX headers. I buy Stainless Works headers because I would rather have my money go to the nice guys in Ohio rather than China.

Marc

Thanks for speaking up on this. I hesitate to speak publicly because many friends have purchased obx and don't want to speak negatively about these headers

SW does offer a substantial discount the the registry (thanks Robert!) and are made in the USA

:cheers:

David

[USAZR1]

Anyone have a price on Corey Henderson's headers ?? I have a new sett of OBX and they seem fine esp. for the price , but If is worth the expense to get CH or SW I'd head that direction, and sell the OBX
I have a X pipe and all is connected to the factory cats system ( at this point ) Do any of the headers end in a better location than others for easy fitment?.

The Henderson/Jeal headers are $1350 uncoated and $1650 coated.
Those were the prices quoted to me about six months ago.

[XfireZ51]

Clint,

I was under the impression Corey was building the Jeals as part of an overall performance package and not as a standalone product.

[LGAFF]

Price options are good it opens the door for people who otherwise couldn't enter at that high of a price point. Everyone is free to spend their $ as they please....it also keep pricing reasonable.

[edram454]

agree. If my car had come with obx headers I would not be changing them either. I would also not pay 500 more for another set of headers. maybe 400 or less. any set of long tube headers will gain you performance. I would like to support American workers for sure but not at twice the price. Maybe the American manufacturer can offer a header 400 or so more money but not 900 dollars.

I am sure the quality of the stainless works or any other american longtube header is better than obx and that is why if I had a failure with my obx I would forgive it faster than if it was a quality American made header.

[We Gone]

SW Long tube/Cats with Corsa

http://imageshack.com/a/img674/6831/8VAUrT.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img905/3272/51zCPb.jpg

[USAZR1]

Clint,
I was under the impression Corey was building the Jeals as part of an overall performance package and not as a standalone product.


That could very well be the case,Dom,but nothing was mentioned about it.

[5ABI VT]

There were several articles I read one was a little car craft one and I saved a few photos. Obviously this isn't set in stone but I expected the opposite to generally be true of longer primaries. This graph shows shorter primaries in red and longer in blue.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/9CB7C516-22E3-4E3F-BA52-943C6617478D_zpsbsqme7n8.png (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/9CB7C516-22E3-4E3F-BA52-943C6617478D_zpsbsqme7n8.png.html)

[Hog]

This video goes along with your graph in case you missed it in my thread.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1bXPNy1Yn4

Big torque gains with collector extensions.

Any changes in collector diameter stops any potential collector tuning. If the collector is 3" and you add an extensiopn that is 2 1/2 or 3 1/4" teh cllector length and tuning, ends at the point where the diameter changes.
Ideally you would want a constant diameter collector rather than an empty cat chamber without a catalyst brick.
Again the eackaging of the C4 is a challenged when it comes to cooling, air intake and exhaust. As Mr Haibeck states, gains from back pressure reduction are what is to be had.

[5ABI VT]

That is a cool video! I just wish they did that with an exhaust on the back. Down the road most Likely when I get bored or when I plan to get more into the motor like cams and head work I will sell these and go with a longer primary and collector and then I can cut up the corsa to fit the cats for emissions and put in straight pipes for all other times. I'm going to guess and say I think that the 2" primaries are helping save these in terms of power output vs the longer primaries. All very interesting to know as I plan to be ordering custom stepped headers for my 8500 rpm LT4 over the winter. Ai told me the 1 3/4 that I have now can be choking 25-50 hp at higher rpms :o. The other thing I will be doing is cutting open the tops of the B&B mufflers and weld in straight pipes or sell the system for a better flowing one.

[Schrade]

Cool link Hog...

I see one thing confirmed, which I'd believed before - you CAN have too much pipe.

WRT to the extensions, and torque boost, was it attributable only to making flow laminar - less turbulent???

[XfireZ51]

This video goes along with your graph in case you missed it in my thread.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1bXPNy1Yn4

Big torque gains with collector extensions.

Any changes in collector diameter stops any potential collector tuning. If the collector is 3" and you add an extensiopn that is 2 1/2 or 3 1/4" teh cllector length and tuning, ends at the point where the diameter changes.
Ideally you would want a constant diameter collector rather than an empty cat chamber without a catalyst brick.
Again the eackaging of the C4 is a challenged when it comes to cooling, air intake and exhaust. As Mr Haibeck states, gains from back pressure reduction are what is to be had.
This reminds me of the trick to determine collector length which was to take a wax crayon and draw a line on the pipe. Where it melted was where the correct length would be found.

[SAM/CH ZR-1]

Maybe I oversaw but does anybody know a good source where to ceramic-coat headers? I need to coat 3 sets.

Sam

[WVZR-1]

Maybe I oversaw but does anybody know a good source where to ceramic-coat headers? I need to coat 3 sets.

Sam

I would think there's vendors available near you or much closer to you OR are the headers still here in the US and you want them done before shipping? Depending on the equipment you have available you might consider doing this yourself. There's several firearms dealers and coaters that use Cerakote products. C-series is air dried product I believe, blasting cabinet and patience and I believe you would be all set. I would think similar product available closer. There's application videos at their website. A friend has someone that I believe does his own but NOT FOR HIRE.

http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/

[SAM/CH ZR-1]

I would think there's vendors available near you or much closer to you OR are the headers still here in the US and you want them done before shipping? Depending on the equipment you have available you might consider doing this yourself. There's several firearms dealers and coaters that use Cerakote products. C-series is air dried product I believe, blasting cabinet and patience and I believe you would be all set. I would think similar product available closer. There's application videos at their website. A friend has someone that I believe does his own but NOT FOR HIRE.

http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/

Thank you for your reply but can it be coated by my own like by a professional? The coating must be done only outside or inside the pipe too?

Sam

[WVZR-1]

Thank you for your reply but can it be coated by my own like by a professional? The coating must be done only outside or inside the pipe too?

Sam

Sam,

I'd certainly think so. They also do oven cured product. I would think inside could be done but the preparation might be a test. It's something I believe you could/should investigate.

[Paul Workman]

This video goes along with your graph in case you missed it in my thread.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1bXPNy1Yn4

Big torque gains with collector extensions.

Any changes in collector diameter stops any potential collector tuning. If the collector is 3" and you add an extensiopn that is 2 1/2 or 3 1/4" teh cllector length and tuning, ends at the point where the diameter changes.
Ideally you would want a constant diameter collector rather than an empty cat chamber without a catalyst brick....*.

Echoing your last, one of the appalling observations (to me anyway) was the number of "choke points" built into the (so-called) 3" Magnaflow exhaust system available for the C4. Specifically, there were many choke points along the 3" piping:


the collector flange necked down to about 2-1/2" to accommodate the collector clamp before resuming the 3" diameter
then again at the "X" pipe section the 3" necked down again to what appeared to be ≈ 2-3/4" through the X section
the resonator was a single tube, I don't recall the diameter, but IIRC it was perhaps 3-1/2 to 3-3/4" leading into a ≈ 2-1/2 to 2-3/4" exit collector before expanding to 3" twin outlets
and lastly, the inlet to the twin tube mufflers choked down again from 3" to approx 2-1/2 to 2-3/4" as exhaust entered the muffler.


Upon seeing this, I opted to avoid using any of the MF system, except the mufflers, but only because I didn't have the Dynamax 17228s (with true 3" inlet and twin outlets) available at the time.

I never installed the MF system, choosing to go with a true 3" exhaust (except for the mufflers (temporary), so I can't show graphs of how they would have compared to the present system. But, perhaps it suffices to note that on my dyno run the fully ported, dual runner (i.e., NOT "Siamesed"), 5.7L LT5 made 432 hp at the wheels with STOCK TB & CAMS - which I feel is respectable for a stock idle, NA, street-driven motor.

Rear wheel torque comparison (below) of my Stock 90 LT5 (except for a Borla cat-back) with the stock "shorty" headers into the cats vs. the SW 2" primary, 3" collectors and 3" throughout (no resonator), except the muffs. It seems to verify what the video shows - especially compared to the shorty header graphs.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/Dyno%20graphs/Dynographs_zps723fdad7.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/6PPC_bucket/media/Dyno%20graphs/Dynographs_zps723fdad7.jpg.html)

Intake and exhaust flow dynamics always interest me, for some reason.

:happy1:

[rkreigh]

Echoing your last, one of the appalling observations (to me anyway) was the number of "choke points" built into the (so-called) 3" Magnaflow exhaust system available for the C4. Specifically, there were many choke points along the 3" piping:


the collector flange necked down to about 2-1/2" to accommodate the collector clamp before resuming the 3" diameter
then again at the "X" pipe section the 3" necked down again to what appeared to be ≈ 2-3/4" through the X section
the resonator was a single tube, I don't recall the diameter, but IIRC it was perhaps 3-1/2 to 3-3/4" leading into a ≈ 2-1/2 to 2-3/4" exit collector before expanding to 3" twin outlets
and lastly, the inlet to the twin tube mufflers choked down again from 3" to approx 2-1/2 to 2-3/4" as exhaust entered the muffler.

Upon seeing this, I opted to avoid using any of the MF system, except the mufflers, but only because I didn't have the Dynamax 17228s (with true 3" inlet and twin outlets) available at the time.

I never installed the MF system, choosing to go with a true 3" exhaust (except for the mufflers (temporary), so I can't show graphs of how they would have compared to the present system. But, perhaps it suffices to note that on my dyno run the fully ported, dual runner (i.e., NOT "Siamesed"), 5.7L LT5 made 432 hp at the wheels with STOCK TB & CAMS - which I feel is respectable for a stock idle, NA, street-driven motor.

Rear wheel torque comparison (below) of my Stock 90 LT5 (except for a Borla cat-back) with the stock "shorty" headers into the cats vs. the SW 2" primary, 3" collectors and 3" throughout (no resonator), except the muffs. It seems to verify what the video shows - especially compared to the shorty header graphs.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/Dyno%20graphs/Dynographs_zps723fdad7.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/6PPC_bucket/media/Dyno%20graphs/Dynographs_zps723fdad7.jpg.html)

Intake and exhaust flow dynamics always interest me, for some reason.

:happy1:


me too! gotta go with the flow LT5 ponies are expensive and hard to come by, but 3 hp for 600, I dunno that's alot.

I think the longer collectors and smoother blends are worth the price of admission on the LPE headers, so maybe I'll just have them cleaned up and coated if they aren't too bad. they fit nice, and are a "part of the car" in many ways and the 505 at the tire should not be messed with an part that won't pull the same

thanks Marc for posting up some real word numbers

[Hog]

What's the weight difference?

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN5975.jpg
I was going through my Photobucket and thought I'd throw up a pic of the Jeal longtubes for the LT5 for comparison Longer primaries.
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb373/Paul_Schermerhorn/jeallt5.jpg (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/Paul_Schermerhorn/media/jeallt5.jpg.html)
And of course the Baker racing LT's that are mounted on tpepmeie's killer North of 700 hp LT5 monster
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb373/Paul_Schermerhorn/rossheaderback.jpg (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/Paul_Schermerhorn/media/rossheaderback.jpg.html)
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb373/Paul_Schermerhorn/rossheaderright.jpg (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/Paul_Schermerhorn/media/rossheaderright.jpg.html)


And another OBX pic
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb373/Paul_Schermerhorn/obxlt5header.jpg (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/Paul_Schermerhorn/media/obxlt5header.jpg.html)

[Hog]

And a Stainless Works LT5 header-Price: $1,190.00 Sale: $1,071.00
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb373/Paul_Schermerhorn/LT5-ZR-1/SWlt5headers_zps2590a6ac.jpg (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/Paul_Schermerhorn/media/LT5-ZR-1/SWlt5headers_zps2590a6ac.jpg.html)

[FU]

I'd stick with the SS headers (Swain coated). H/P and esp. torque of the SS headers will be well worth the price over the short collector on the OBX.

That short collector on the OBX should be followed by a 8-10 inch length of 3" straight pipe. There is much torque to be picked up there. The crayon method on the collector will determine the proper length of the collector.

[mike100]

Does anybody have a good pic of a Watson header. I have a mystery set and wanted to compare. The collector is a little different than the Jeal and the some tubes are two pieces welded at a joint.

[Hog]

Does anybody have a good pic of a Watson header. I have a mystery set and wanted to compare. The collector is a little different than the Jeal and the some tubes are two pieces welded at a joint.

Same diameter pipe at the welded joint? Not a step up or step down?

[XfireZ51]

Does anybody have a good pic of a Watson header. I have a mystery set and wanted to compare. The collector is a little different than the Jeal and the some tubes are two pieces welded at a joint.

Mike,

If you have a pic, you can post it and I can compare to my Watsons. There are welded joints in the primaries.

[mike100]

I don't have the other side hosted on my online picture depository, but it looks similar- rear most cylinder has mandrel bent sections joined with a tig weld. I would like to see a Watson pipe to see if the collector is the same. These are 2" primaries.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c265/mschrameck/Cars/lt5-headers_sm_zps3c4a2ec2.jpg~original