Pulling the Plenum for the first time...

[Billy Mild]

I have had the ZR1 for a few weeks now and have driven more than I thought I would over these past few weeks. The no radio hasn't bothered me that much since I have some way of listening to tunes(phone with bluetooth speaker).

I have cleaned the grounds inside the car, but I know I need to clean the grounds on the engine block and anywhere else in the engine bay. I have been told that pulling the plenum is the right of passage to owning these cars.

I'm not a noob to working on cars in general, just corvettes. I have a guy local to me who went and looked over the car with me, let me know what I should do to get the car up to snuff. Pulling the plenum is on the top of this list to me.

List of things to do:
-Replace Fuel Injectors(don't know if its ever been done, but Tech 1 showed a big difference between the 2 banks of the engine)
-Fix some vacuum lines
-Change/flush coolant
-Change PCV rubber pieces
-Change MAP sensor hose(mine is all rubber not the hard plastic line like stock)

Is there anything I am really missing when pulling the plenum? Can I get some of these vacuum lines at the local part store? That MAP sensor hose is like $45 on Jerry's gasket. He told me to make sure I book about 8 hours to do all this work.

[Roadster]

I will be watching this thread, as this is something I may be doing over the winter. There is a wealth of info on this forum, these guys really know the ZR-1 inside and out. I am always learnng something new on this site, and learning more about my 94 as time goes on.
Be sure to take pics along the way, as it is always good to get another look at what owners are doing to their Z's.
BTW, what year is yours? And good luck!!!

[Billy Mild]

My car is a 1991. White with red interior.

I figured I would post this question on here in order to have all the parts lined out before I start tearing it apart.

[Schrade]

I didn't know this thing either when I started (still don't much http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif ); but maybe put every bolt back in it's hole when the part is out of the way, which takes longer, BUT, bolts NEVER get mixed up when you do.

And, clean the parts as soon as you remove them.

Dirty parts stack up REAL quick; then at re-assembly, you get rushed, and don't do as good a job as you'd have done otherwise.

And no one gets mad if you post LOTS of snappics as you go ;)

[XfireZ51]

Billy,

Just a couple of suggestions.

1. The BLM split between left and right banks is not unusual particularly at low airflow levels like idle. If you are going to swap out injectors, it should not be because of that alone. If you suspect something else fine. Also, depends on mileage.

2. If stock coils and wires then I would upgrade these.

3. You'll need to make sure you drain coolant to levels below plenum.

[secondchance]

When ignition is in run position how frequently and for how long does your vacuum motor run? If it stays quiet for 30 seconds or more I would say your vacuum lines are in good shape.
Also, I would have a couple of 3 way vacuum check valves handy just in case.
I would check all vacuum line plastic to rubber boot connections and if they are sliding relative to the other, I would slide the hard line out about a 1/4", dab of Crazy glue, slide back in. Also, seal the rubber boot shoulder with black silicone sealant followed by a zip-tie. 'Course all that is unnecessary on my car since I pulled the whole secondary vacuum off the motor now.

[Billy Mild]

Billy,

Just a couple of suggestions.

1. The BLM split between left and right banks is not unusual particularly at low airflow levels like idle. If you are going to swap out injectors, it should not be because of that alone. If you suspect something else fine. Also, depends on mileage.

2. If stock coils and wires then I would upgrade these.

3. You'll need to make sure you drain coolant to levels below plenum.

My car has 69,000 miles and to my knowledge has never had the injectors done. The car runs a little rough at idle. The local guy seemed to think it ran really rough for a ZR1.

They appear to be stock coils, and wires. It seems to be hit or miss with changing out coils.

When ignition is in run position how frequently and for how long does your vacuum motor run? If it stays quiet for 30 seconds or more I would say your vacuum lines are in good shape.
Also, I would have a couple of 3 way vacuum check valves handy just in case.
I would check all vacuum line plastic to rubber boot connections and if they are sliding relative to the other, I would slide the hard line out about a 1/4", dab of Crazy glue, slide back in. Also, seal the rubber boot shoulder with black silicone sealant followed by a zip-tie. 'Course all that is unnecessary on my car since I pulled the whole secondary vacuum off the motor now.

I would like to replace vacuum lines not just put a band aid on them. Where should I get the 3 way vacuum check valves?
My vacuum pump runs every second or so. So it there are some vacuum leaks.

[secondchance]

I would like to replace vacuum lines not just put a band aid on them. Where should I get the 3 way vacuum check valves?
My vacuum pump runs every second or so. So it there are some vacuum leaks.

Based on my experience, unless plastic lines are cracked and broken, replacing with new lines will only buy you time because heat and oil fume softens the rubber and makes the seal loose. Crazy glue, zip tie and sealant (or epoxy) on the shoulder is the permanent solution.

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-50568-Vacuum-Source-Check/dp/B0016I0E42

[Harvie]

Took me 3 hours to pull the plenum off a motor last night. Anytime I do something the first time I make or have diagrams and try to follow the service manual steps.

The throttle body extension is real fun getting off when attached to the engine. 25t 1/4 ext and fish

[Schrade]

The car runs a little rough at idle.

Not necessarily vac leaks...

It could be air getting by the 2' TB butterfly (which I suppose amounts comparably to a vac leak), but not entirely the same.

Cut a gasket withOUT cutting the 2' holes, to re-check idle quality. I did this, and idle was rock-steady. I'll put it back in, when I learn coding.

[tccrab]

The car runs a little rough at idle. The local guy seemed to think it ran really rough for a ZR1.



A properly running ZR1 will easily pass the "Nickel Test".

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/corvette-videos/showphoto.php/photo/1413/cat/508

'Crabs

[Billy Mild]

Not necessarily vac leaks...

It could be air getting by the 2' TB butterfly (which I suppose amounts comparably to a vac leak), but not entirely the same.

Cut a gasket withOUT cutting the 2' holes, to re-check idle quality. I did this, and idle was rock-steady. I'll put it back in, when I learn coding.

What would this prove? If it does prove anything how can it be fixed?

[Schrade]

For starters, it can show that you have no vacuum leaks ELSEwhere, and that you have everything ELSE in perfect tune order.

Did in my case anyway.

Fix? None yet...

[Billy Mild]

What are the PCV rubber pieces part numbers? Will Jerry's Gasket be the best place to get these kinds of pieces?

[PhillipsLT5]

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/products/plenum%20dvd.htm

[A26B]

What are the PCV rubber pieces part numbers? Will Jerry's Gasket be the best place to get these kinds of pieces?

See if these are the PCV rubber parts you want to replace.

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=776&zenid=484462330db54779f8e91f10f4ed35c7

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=854

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=855

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=278

[PhillipsLT5]

Jerry is Da Man!

[Billy Mild]

See if these are the PCV rubber parts you want to replace.

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=776&zenid=484462330db54779f8e91f10f4ed35c7

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=854

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=855

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=278

Looks like that last one is what I'm looking for. I think mine is leaking just a wee bit. Better replace that now rather than later.

Looks like the parts list is growing. Who know Corvette parts were as expensive or more than Porsche parts...

My wife is rolling her eyes now for encouraging me to pick up this beast. I have a torn apart motorcycle in my garage and now the ZR1 has taken over my "project focus".

[Billy Mild]

What is the best place for vacuum lines and rubber fittings?

Do Vitton gaskets really make a big difference over Buna gaskets? Can o-rings be sourced at the local auto parts store or are they specific to the ZR1?

[Harvie]

What is the best place for vacuum lines and rubber fittings?

Do Vitton gaskets really make a big difference over Buna gaskets? Can o-rings be sourced at the local auto parts store or are they specific to the ZR1?


Buna and Viton are oring materials not gaskets. There are better than viton also, and real cheap. Just get the oring number and order them from Applied Industrial Tech. or take one in and they will match explain the diferences, and order for you.

[Billy Mild]

Buna and Viton are oring materials not gaskets. There are better than viton also, and real cheap. Just get the oring number and order them from Applied Industrial Tech. or take one in and they will match explain the diferences, and order for you.

So the intake manifold gaskets are the same regardless?

The o-ring's are either ethanol compatible or not? Does anyone have the sizes for the o-rings required? I thought new fuel injectors come with the the o-rings required?

I am looking at getting the Accel Fuel Injectors. In the past when I purchased new injectors they came with the little orings already in place. I need to have all the parts ordered before I start this project. I don't want to be waiting on parts.

[Paul Workman]

So the intake manifold gaskets are the same regardless?

The o-ring's are either ethanol compatible or not? Does anyone have the sizes for the o-rings required? I thought new fuel injectors come with the the o-rings required?

I am looking at getting the Accel Fuel Injectors. In the past when I purchased new injectors they came with the little orings already in place. I need to have all the parts ordered before I start this project. I don't want to be waiting on parts.

The man with all your gasket and answers to misc parts involved in your swap is Jerry Downy at JERRY'S GASKETS. (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/)

[Harvie]

Knowing that major manufacturers use the lowest cost part that meets specs and mark it up as much as possible, when I buy parts I research who makes the OEM stuff and then which manufacturer makes the very best part, then I search for pricing.

When I use orings I most likely will use those that can handle nitromethane, the very highest in quality, as long lasting as available, and 2 floors (not steps) above those required in specs.

Gasket materials are all over the place also, I use solid copper gaskets on exhaust anytime I am able to and use a manufacturer that uses the same specs from the Chesterson 140 gasket material or make my own.

I only like to do things once, so I will pay more for the parts and components or make them to make sure of it.


Jerrys has the gaskets/orings and so do other sources.

[Billy Mild]

Has anyone ever made their own map hose? Is it recommended to replace the spider of vacuum hoses with all soft flexible ones like silicone?

[secondchance]

Has anyone ever made their own map hose? Is it recommended to replace the spider of vacuum hoses with all soft flexible ones like silicone?

I made my own map hose w/ 1/4" hard plastic hose and rubber hose from Advance Auto. You don't want to use soft flexible hose for vacuum. Vacuum will make them collapse and inoperable.

[Billy Mild]

Parts have been ordered. I told the wife I ordered parts, but didn't tell her the total amount...

Please god don't let her see the CC bill.

[efnfast]

Parts have been ordered. I told the wife I ordered parts, but didn't tell her the total amount...

Please god don't let her see the CC bill.

When I did my exhaust, she asked how much? I said about the same as the new couch you're looking at. I had to wait. Don't buy Lazy Boy buy the way.

[Billy Mild]

I made my own map hose w/ 1/4" hard plastic hose and rubber hose from Advance Auto. You don't want to use soft flexible hose for vacuum. Vacuum will make them collapse and inoperable.

On my 944 Turbo I used all silicone tubing for the vacuum lines. It worked great. They were oil resistant and everything.

[Harvie]

You may want to check with Eaton Aeroquip for hoses, they have every kind and size that will take anything you put into them.

[Billy Mild]

Now the fun starts...

Marq21 and I pulled the plenum on the ZR1 yesterday. Need to give him a shot out for helping me out on this job. Without him I would have not been able to fix the secondaries issue I was having, or get the complete job done.

First off, WOW. The car runs completely different. I don't even know what to say. If your car doesn't surprise you every time you hit the gas WOT, then you need to get some service done.

My car is having an intermittent high idle issue. It doesn't sit at the prescribed 750 RPM. It idles around 900 rpm normally, and occasionally after coming to a stop will be at 1200 RPM. With a Tech 1 hooked up the IAC shows 0. It occasionally would move, but at idle it was 0.

I have read there is IAC re-learning procedure that can be done. The battery was unhooked for a few hours. I have the FSM, but I don't know the correct search terms to find it.

-Vacuum leaks were fixed
-Plenum gaskets were in good shape so they were re-used
-Accell Injectors were installed
-Check Valve replaced for cruise
-PCV Breather hoses in the valley were replaced
-New MAP hose

The car runs great throughout the RPM's now. It drives great, except idle is a little weird. In between gears the idle will kind of hang around 1500 RPM.

[Billy Mild]

I forgot to post a few pictures. I should have taken more, but we were trying to get things done.

http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab123/billymild/zr1/IMG_20141004_101224_zpsbabkai5a.jpg

Oil vapors were being vented to the atmosphere. I don't understand how this car ran at all.

http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab123/billymild/zr1/IMG_20141004_101232_zpso0vgo1ef.jpg

In this picture you will see a mouse nests. Guess what? There was a crispy dead mouse still in there. Surprisingly there are no chewed wires.

http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab123/billymild/zr1/IMG_20141004_111001_zpsofmefmwu.jpg

[Schrade]

Now the fun starts...

Marq21 and I pulled the plenum on the ZR1 yesterday. Need to give him a shot out for helping me out on this job. Without him I would have not been able to fix the secondaries issue I was having, or get the complete job done.

First off, WOW. The car runs completely different. I don't even know what to say. If your car doesn't surprise you every time you hit the gas WOT, then you need to get some service done.

My car is having an intermittent high idle issue. It doesn't sit at the prescribed 750 RPM. It idles around 900 rpm normally, and occasionally after coming to a stop will be at 1200 RPM. With a Tech 1 hooked up the IAC shows 0. It occasionally would move, but at idle it was 0.

I have read there is IAC re-learning procedure that can be done. The battery was unhooked for a few hours. I have the FSM, but I don't know the correct search terms to find it.

-Vacuum leaks were fixed
-Plenum gaskets were in good shape so they were re-used
-Accell Injectors were installed
-Check Valve replaced for cruise
-PCV Breather hoses in the valley were replaced
-New MAP hose

The car runs great throughout the RPM's now. It drives great, except idle is a little weird. In between gears the idle will kind of hang around 1500 RPM.

Sounds like the High Idle Coast-Down issue, for which there was a GM TSB. Marc H has the chip code solution...

You might ALSO have air getting by the TB 2' butterflies, as I mentioned above.

Mouse needs butter (he's toast) http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif

[Billy Mild]

I didn't remove the TB at all, also I didn't clean the inside of the plenum at all.

[XfireZ51]

I didn't remove the TB at all, also I didn't clean the inside of the plenum at all.

Did you remove the throttle cable?

[Billy Mild]

Yes I did remove the throttle cables.

[A26B]

Did it idle properly at 750rpm before you did the work?

[Billy Mild]

Did it idle properly at 750rpm before you did the work?

In general the car didn't run very well before this work. But it did have a consistent idle.

Now the car runs better, much better, but the idle is not consistent. As far as I can tell there aren't any vacuum leaks. I tried spraying potential vacuum leaks with WD40.there was 0 change.

Could be TPS or IAC possibly?

[A26B]

I doubt that its the TPS or IAC, if they were not removed. I am more inclined towards a vacuum leak associated with the work that was done. Its not unusual to have a cracked hose or leaking connection when re-installing the plenum. It's a little tricky keeping it all connected. You should backtrack your work.

[Billy Mild]

Is there anyway to check this without pulling the plenum again?

[mike100]

take the intake bellows off and take a stiff box cardboard piece (like real stiff) or a phone book etc and block the air horn to see if you can stall it. An open tube will be audible enough if the engine is still running at that point.

[Schrade]

In general the car didn't run very well before this work. But it did have a consistent idle.

Now the car runs better, much better, but the idle is not consistent. As far as I can tell there aren't any vacuum leaks. I tried spraying potential vacuum leaks with WD40.there was 0 change.

Could be TPS or IAC possibly?

You boosted RPM's before spraying for a leak?

FIRST (fully warmed up motor); block the gas pedal, or block the throttle linkage. YOU HAVE TO DO THIS TO GET A STEADY IDLE , around 1,250 rpms, or a little higher. If you don't, you can fish starting fluid, a propane hose, or WD40, or Krylon, or hair spray, or pee, anything, until you need a sweater in Hades, but if the motor is lopin' idle already from a vacuum leak, you ain't gonna' find any leak, unless it's so big that Little Jack Horner can stick his thumb in it and pull out a pineapple NOPE.

AFTER you get a steady idle, THEN, you can spray starting fluid everywhere - that's the best detector, because it's vapor pressure is very high - a LITTLE at a time, all around the motor, until you get the rpm SURGE. Follow the vacuum lines to the EVAP cannister too. You might even have to follow the EVAP lines from the EVAP cannister to the gas tank too, but that vacuum leak will show up as a DTC 32 EGR fault, and won't normally show as loping idle, unless the EVAP cannister has been by-passed (been there, saw that uh-HUH yup).

If you get a surge in a tight spot, and can't tell exactly where it is, light a book of matches, blow out the match heads while they're still burnin', and feed the smoke to the tight spot to see it get drawn in.

Fear not the starting fluid; you cannot put the can down fast enough and light the matches fast enough to catch the starting fluid, because the vapor pressure is so high.


Short of that, the phone book trick like mike100 said worked for me @ TE Cleanup. I had forgotten to put a clamp on the PCV's rubber valve cap-to-pipe connection, behind plenum, and it was sucking air.

After that, it was ROCK steady 675 (with the TB 2' gasket block, which told me that all else was in perfect tune order).

[XfireZ51]

The LT-5 sucks so well at idle that it doesn't take much to have a vacuum leak.
How often does your secondary throttle vacuum pump come on w key ON?

[Billy Mild]

The LT-5 sucks so well at idle that it doesn't take much to have a vacuum leak.
How often does your secondary throttle vacuum pump come on w key ON?

My vacuum pump runs for literally 1 second then shuts off. The system appears to be pretty tight as far as that goes. It doesn't seem to leak from that aspect. Everything was ZIP-Tied and and any pieces that didn't seal well with a vacuum pump were replaced.

I have leaking fuel from under my plenum. It didn't do this the night I got the work complete, and it didn't leak yesterday. It must have done this overnight. So I guess the plenum is coming back off?

[XfireZ51]

My vacuum pump runs for literally 1 second then shuts off. The system appears to be pretty tight as far as that goes. It doesn't seem to leak from that aspect. Everything was ZIP-Tied and and any pieces that didn't seal well with a vacuum pump were replaced.

I have leaking fuel from under my plenum. It didn't do this the night I got the work complete, and it didn't leak yesterday. It must have done this overnight. So I guess the plenum is coming back off?

BTW, the injector O-rings, if not seated properly, can be a cause of a vacuum leak. Were they removed earlier? Good idea to use some sealer where the injector O ring seats in the housing.

[Billy Mild]

BTW, the injector O-rings, if not seated properly, can be a cause of a vacuum leak. Were they removed earlier? Good idea to use some sealer where the injector O ring seats in the housing.

I replaced the injectors and all the associated o rings with brand new ones. It appears the one injector o-ring got pinched which caused a decent sized fuel leak. The only thing that was weird is it just started to leak Sunday night. All this work was performed on Saturday evening. I have remedied this leak. I also used 2 stroke oil when I put the fuel rails back in.

I am working through getting everything that would possibly leak air ziptied very tight.

[Billy Mild]

I put the intake back on. The car sometimes hunts for an idle. Going up and down just llittle bit. Everything is ziptied tight or clamped down.

Should I try blocking the intake port with some cardboard?

In unrelated news I didn't have the coolant hose to the intake manifold tight and it sprayed coolant everywhere. Whats the best way to clean that up?

[Schrade]

I replaced the injectors and all the associated o rings with brand new ones. It appears the one injector o-ring got pinched which caused a decent sized fuel leak. The only thing that was weird is it just started to leak Sunday night. All this work was performed on Saturday evening. I have remedied this leak. I also used 2 stroke oil when I put the fuel rails back in.

I am working through getting everything that would possibly leak air ziptied very tight.

Been there done that.

Dropped a socket (ask Paul W on the particulars) (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=187673&postcount=318), and had to pull the INJ / rails. Gas dried a lubed O-ring, and it sheared off nice and clean on rail re-install. Fuel LEAK!!! And AFTER one successful FP test GRRR

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MbFBeJkrVqo/UoLslK0A_FI/AAAAAAAACuw/f_tF9S4YOGQ/s1280/HPIM7496.JPG

[Billy Mild]

Been there done that.

Dropped a socket (ask Paul W on the particulars) (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=187673&postcount=318), and had to pull the INJ / rails. Gas dried a lubed O-ring, and it sheared off nice and clean on rail re-install. Fuel LEAK!!! And AFTER one successful FP test GRRR

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MbFBeJkrVqo/UoLslK0A_FI/AAAAAAAACuw/f_tF9S4YOGQ/s1280/HPIM7496.JPG

Almost exactly what he failed ORing looked like. I was pissed. Thing is the leak didn't show up until a 36 hours later.

So I drove the car this morning, look like my coolant tank is leaking just a wee bit. Need to put some more JB weld on it again. Other than that the car ran smooth. Before the car was fully warmed up the idle would go up a little bit and back down.

I drove on the highway for about 20 minutes and then the idle was rock solid when at a complete stop. If the car was rolling at all the idle would be increased to 1,300 RPM.

[mike100]

Don't think you are the only one that has had to go back in right after a plenum pull. Ha! I fixed my vacuum leak, cleaned everything up, and then really had a chance to start driving mine just to discover that my injectors were going out if you drove it for more than 20 minutes! I pulled it off the very next day.

Always buy a second set of gaskets to have in 'stock'.

[Schrade]

Almost exactly what he failed ORing looked like. I was pissed. Thing is the leak didn't show up until a 36 hours later.

So I drove the car this morning, look like my coolant tank is leaking just a wee bit. Need to put some more JB weld on it again. Other than that the car ran smooth. Before the car was fully warmed up the idle would go up a little bit and back down. If it was wobbly idle also at Closed Loop, I'd say 2nd TB leak, but if smooth @ CL, you're probably fine.

[/QUOTE]I drove on the highway for about 20 minutes and then the idle was rock solid when at a complete stop. If the car was rolling at all the idle would be increased to 1,300 RPM.[/QUOTE]That is high idle coast down issue - betcha. You gotta' get the memory / calibration module re-coded.

[Kevin]

My vacuum pump runs for literally 1 second then shuts off. The system appears to be pretty tight as far as that goes. It doesn't seem to leak from that aspect. Everything was ZIP-Tied and and any pieces that didn't seal well with a vacuum pump were replaced.

I have leaking fuel from under my plenum. It didn't do this the night I got the work complete, and it didn't leak yesterday. It must have done this overnight. So I guess the plenum is coming back off?

I know I have a vac leak that I just haven't dealt with yet and my pump does the same thing

[Billy Mild]

I know I have a vac leak that I just haven't dealt with yet and my pump does the same thing

If I did have a vacuum leak, wouldn't the idle be fluctuate all the time? I just don't see who it could be leaking. I have used a vacuum pump to check all the connections and nothing seems to be leaking.

[Billy Mild]

Here is a little video of what I am dealing with when the car is fully warmed up.

http://youtu.be/TjD4C59Q9gA

[Billy Mild]

I had a suggestion from Marc Haibeck that it could be the PCV grommet for the valves. I checked that today and it was ziptied to the tops of the PCV valves. Is there anyway to pressure test that system?

Another thing I noticed today. If the AC is on the idle is pretty much perfect. It doesn't fluctuate at all. Is that normal? Could this all be IAC related?

[XfireZ51]

Another thing I noticed today. If the AC is on the idle is pretty much perfect. It doesn't fluctuate at all. Is that normal? Could this all be IAC related?

That's because the AC put a load on the motor and moved the idle to a different/richer part of the VE table. Suggests to me that your oscillating idle is due to a lean surge. The VE table at idle needs to be flattened out, probably along w the SA table altho I would look at Closed Throttle Idle SA setting.

[Billy Mild]

That's because the AC put a load on the motor and moved the idle to a different/richer part of the VE table. Suggests to me that your oscillating idle is due to a lean surge. The VE table at idle needs to be flattened out, probably along w the SA table altho I would look at Closed Throttle Idle SA setting.

This sounds like a tuning issue. My car is pretty much stock minus the K&N air filter, and the center resonator delete and borla mufflers. Would that cause a lean surge at idle? I would think the stock FI system could handle those changes.

[Billy Mild]

Any idea on what to look at?