Sagging headliner ... (snappics)

[Schrade]

edit
Procedure for removeable Glasstop screen begins @ post # 46.

AND BE CAREFUL OF WHAT CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS YOU APPLY TO THE FOAM BOARD. Some compounds, even water-based, can generate heat enough to affect the foam board, and make it 'curl up', and force you to re-start the job.

Test the stuff that you decide to use, on the cutaway foam scrap. Maybe allow at least 24 hours to test.

The felt adhesive that I used on the Painted top did not curl the foam. Still test it on your own scrap tho'.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I did this a few years ago, and put in new felt (PO was a smoker, and a https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQHAe8E9H1L67ep9DbrZRRZ1cxyCjqfa Cbh5hE6BPCZSxTCoZGlyA ), and I had school logo embossed onto new felt.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-75icTK6b26o/U65jAtXWyNI/AAAAAAAAEZQ/Q1b5c4gJ3GY/s1024/x00027a.jpg
I have additional headliners with the C4 logo embossed; send a PM at me here...

Old headliner / pad removal:

I put a butter knife to the edge, CENTER or the rear, to get under it. Make sure to hold the knife flat on the edge, to not scratch...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hTCyxrT2TyU/U65hxacj6HE/AAAAAAAAEZE/tfnGykVBd1g/s1008-c/June282014.jpg

Then you can get a hand in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tRZpKLfdeeM/U65kkjuG-CI/AAAAAAAAEZk/G3qjIpld6Qg/s1024/IMG_6562.JPG

Once you get under the edge, ya' gotta' pull the fabric off of the panel with your fingers. Don't try to pull it by the edge of the foam board - it will break up.

Wear long sleeves!

Go all the way around the edge, then work toward the center.

(at this point, the edge DID break, and I had to go around the other way)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jRUanZ5nRA8/U65la66szLI/AAAAAAAAEZw/4uX9mto3eEg/s1024/IMG_6563.JPG

Lifted. Lots of glue at the center.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ISC46GrG8W8/U65mDwqosJI/AAAAAAAAEaA/gNbvRd_oqko/s1024/IMG_6564.JPG

[Schrade]

edited for completion...

I used felt adhesive for the new felt $5 at Lowe's:

http://hi.atgimg.com/img/p400/15460/720468368138_ca.jpg

I painted the pad with a mini-roller, + water-based Acrylic Latex paint, to stop pad dust from coming through the new felt, and to give some re-enforcement to the pad. A rattle can with clear Poly, or Black paint would probably do the same.

Place the new felt onto the pad. Flip back the lower half, to hold placement, and then apply adhesive with a putty knife:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19398&d=1406772621

Flip down the lower half, then glue the upper half:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19399&d=1406772666

(DO NOT PRESS DOWN TOO HARD - THE ADHESIVE WILL COME THROUGH THE FELT. You could see that in the 'Skully' '94 top... )

[Schrade]

edited for completion...

After interior dries, flip the pad, and cut excess around the panel side.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19400&d=1406772838

Instead of the cork sheeting on the roof panel side, I went with styrofoam board, 3/16", to quell exhaust drone, and to further re-enforce the original pad. Cut in sections, to about 1/4" of the original pad. Decibel readings with the glass top, and now with the insulated painted top, once installed...

Dry-fit the overlap the rest of the way around. The forward corner concave curves are tricky. I made 2 cuts in the apex of the concave curve, to about 3/8" of the edge (2nd edit - you need to cut to about 1/16" in the front concave corners - I got a buckle from not cutting close enough; see below):

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19401&d=1406772969

[nelson007]

Thanks Scharde for the information.
My liner had came off during the Tail of the Dragon Run on the passenger side. Now I know how to fix.
Thanks
Nelson007

[Paul Workman]

Thanks Scharde for the information.
My liner had came off during the Tail of the Dragon Run on the passenger side. Now I know how to fix.
Thanks
Nelson007

Hi Nelson!

I bought the "kit" from Midamerica to re upholster mine. However, I believe that Robert DeMarco has some headliners with the ZR-1 script on them which you might prefer (maybe available too at the Registry Store, come to think of it!).

My foam was in good shape so I didn't have to remove/replace it.

Hint: There seems to be a "window" for contact type glues where timing is "just right" to press the two pieces together. Too early is almost as bad as too late, I find. And, many times, especially when working on larger areas like carpet (or the headliner too, in my case), the window is missed and pressing the surfaces together after that and the result is definitely left wanting. Furthermore, removing the pieces to start over can result in a poor to disastrous result.

The solution is simple enough - recommended by the auto body supply store owner I know: just spray another coat to one of the surfaces (the foam) and w/o waiting for it to get tacky, immediately press the pieces together. Not only with the bond be good, but you might be able to work with the pieces - adjust the fit a little whereas w/o the third coat adjustment is nearly impossible.

(The 3M Weather Stripping Adhesive is one example of a glue that sets up so fast that one can easily miss the window for best results. But, using this hint made all the difference in the world; not only on the headliner, but reapplying the emblems after the car was painted.)

Good luck, buddy!

PS: Far as the headliner coming off during the "Tail of the Dragon" run, it's ALL Robert or GUNNY'S fault. Shoulda known those switchbacks would cause stuff to come loose and they shoulda warned us! LOL!

[Schrade]

Before we buy some resonators (or hack the OEM resonator, to accommodate the 2 x 3" new hardware that I got from Jeff (WAY to much drone right now), I'm gonna' underlay all the interior with sheet cork, starting with the roof panel.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--FE_QIywKUI/U6-FpACDHrI/AAAAAAAAEao/I-mrzzwE0og/s1024/IMG_6565.JPG

[Z51JEFF]

I shot the underside of my top with black Zolotone 20-06,looks better than anything else you could possibly do or use.I think so anyway.

[nelson007]

Thanks Paul ,
I checked the merchandise page and did not see the ZR1 liner. My liner is only pulled away from the foam about 3" along the side. How were you able to tuck in the liner with the foam still in place? I tried using a plastic spreader to push it in, but could not get it tight enough. That' why I was going to remove the foam.
Thanks Again,
Nelson


QUOTE=Paul Workman;206463]Hi Nelson!

I bought the "kit" from Midamerica to re upholster mine. However, I believe that Robert DeMarco has some headliners with the ZR-1 script on them which you might prefer (maybe available too at the Registry Store, come to think of it!).

My foam was in good shape so I didn't have to remove/replace it.

Hint: There seems to be a "window" for contact type glues where timing is "just right" to press the two pieces together. Too early is almost as bad as too late, I find. And, many times, especially when working on larger areas like carpet (or the headliner too, in my case), the window is missed and pressing the surfaces together after that and the result is definitely left wanting. Furthermore, removing the pieces to start over can result in a poor to disastrous result.

The solution is simple enough - recommended by the auto body supply store owner I know: just spray another coat to one of the surfaces (the foam) and w/o waiting for it to get tacky, immediately press the pieces together. Not only with the bond be good, but you might be able to work with the pieces - adjust the fit a little whereas w/o the third coat adjustment is nearly impossible.

(The 3M Weather Stripping Adhesive is one example of a glue that sets up so fast that one can easily miss the window for best results. But, using this hint made all the difference in the world; not only on the headliner, but reapplying the emblems after the car was painted.)

Good luck, buddy!

PS: Far as the headliner coming off during the "Tail of the Dragon" run, it's ALL Robert or GUNNY'S fault. Shoulda known those switchbacks would cause stuff to come loose and they shoulda warned us! LOL![/QUOTE]

[XfireZ51]

Finally got my headliner done using the old backing. Same guy that did seat covers charged me $40 to put this on.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/Z51Xfire/52fb76ce39b05190af51169b5d3f9b18_zps1122d9a6.jpg

[Dynomite]

I placed my Headliner so you could read it correctly looking up at it from an open door. I figured I would not be looking up at the Headliner so often when driving :D

Suede Headliner TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=203956)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite6/0dcb9dad-25d4-4e4a-821c-afc6f723f6fd.jpg

Finally got my headliner done using the old backing. Same guy that did seat covers charged me $40 to put this on.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/Z51Xfire/52fb76ce39b05190af51169b5d3f9b18_zps1122d9a6.jpg

[Schrade]

I shot the underside of my top with black Zolotone 20-06,looks better than anything else you could possibly do or use.I think so anyway.

YiKEs! $50 / QT!

Got any snappics there Jeff? Does it offer any sound absorption at all?

I like the Suede, but I don't particularly like the new Splash image...

[Dynomite]

I like the Suede, but I don't particularly like the new Splash image...


I have three more on the way from Robert. Robert just let me know the other day that his source is re-digitizing the Red Splash to look even better than it does now.........if that is possible ;)

I like the current Red Splash Size, Color and Text Type but Robert is somehow going to improve on what is already perfect :p

I installed the New Headliner just a bit crooked as I now notice....but trust me...when you look at it from an open door it looks perfectly aligned :D

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite6/0dcb9dad-25d4-4e4a-821c-afc6f723f6fd.jpg

[cvette98pacecar]

The Custom headliners are now available for all members in the Registry Store.

Here is a quick link.

http://zr1netregistry.com/Marketplace/RevStoreTest/ProductDetail/tabid/239/rvdsfpid/headliner-85/rvdsfpvid/zr-1-splash-logo-headliner-457/Default.aspx

[Schrade]

The Custom headliners are now available for all members in the Registry Store.

Here is a quick link.

http://zr1netregistry.com/Marketplace/RevStoreTest/ProductDetail/tabid/239/rvdsfpid/headliner-85/rvdsfpvid/zr-1-splash-logo-headliner-457/Default.aspx

Is the OEM-style 'ZR-1' available LARGE?

I'm just not liking the new style...

http://www.zip-corvette.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/-/i-1623_68.jpg

[cvette98pacecar]

Is the OEM-style 'ZR-1' available LARGE?

I'm just not liking the new style...

http://www.zip-corvette.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/-/i-1623_68.jpg

That is a good idea. I am sure we can get it done. Let me find out how much it is going to cost.

[Kevin]

How about this one?

Love it

[USAZR1]

But still thinking I will glue them on with Red ZR-1 in front so you can read them looking through the door/windows ;)


I like that idea,too. How hard is it to change out a headliner?

[Dynomite]

It was super easy on first one as foam came out perfectly without damage. Then using headliner glue from oreillys. Glued and cut extra all around so could be folded under. Popped headliner with original foam in place. No glue on foam. Fit tight and snug. Will try a couple more today ;)

Just popped two Headlines out today....got it started on rear edge and then slipped hand under hard foam lightly pushing further under Headliner foam. Gradually the foam headliner popped from the edges without any failures. The old Headliner with foam came out perfectly (one was originally not glued). Now simple to install new Headliner on original rigid foam and pop Original Foam with New Headliner back in place tucking New Headliner in under Original Foam as I pop foam in place.

Maybe Too Many Foams and Too Many Pops but you get the idea :sign10:

[Paul Workman]

Thanks Paul ,
I checked the merchandise page and did not see the ZR1 liner. My liner is only pulled away from the foam about 3" along the side. How were you able to tuck in the liner with the foam still in place? I tried using a plastic spreader to push it in, but could not get it tight enough. That' why I was going to remove the foam.
Thanks Again,
Nelson


QUOTE=Paul Workman;206463]Hi Nelson!

I bought the "kit" from Midamerica to re upholster mine. However, I believe that Robert DeMarco has some headliners with the ZR-1 script on them which you might prefer (maybe available too at the Registry Store, come to think of it!).

My foam was in good shape so I didn't have to remove/replace it.

Hint: There seems to be a "window" for contact type glues where timing is "just right" to press the two pieces together. Too early is almost as bad as too late, I find. And, many times, especially when working on larger areas like carpet (or the headliner too, in my case), the window is missed and pressing the surfaces together after that and the result is definitely left wanting. Furthermore, removing the pieces to start over can result in a poor to disastrous result.

The solution is simple enough - recommended by the auto body supply store owner I know: just spray another coat to one of the surfaces (the foam) and w/o waiting for it to get tacky, immediately press the pieces together. Not only with the bond be good, but you might be able to work with the pieces - adjust the fit a little whereas w/o the third coat adjustment is nearly impossible.

(The 3M Weather Stripping Adhesive is one example of a glue that sets up so fast that one can easily miss the window for best results. But, using this hint made all the difference in the world; not only on the headliner, but reapplying the emblems after the car was painted.)

Good luck, buddy!

PS: Far as the headliner coming off during the "Tail of the Dragon" run, it's ALL Robert or GUNNY'S fault. Shoulda known those switchbacks would cause stuff to come loose and they shoulda warned us! LOL![/QUOTE]

The replacement material (MidAmerica) was ample enough to leave an inch or so extra around the boarder. So, I was able to push the material under using a pair of thin-bladed putty knives (rounded the corners to prevent tearing the fabric). From beginning to end, it took about an hour and a bit. Came out perfect!

[Mystic ZR-1]

MR2 - Tail of the Dragon etc.
Paul
So that's what it was drapped over your head.
When I was following you thru the twisties I thought you
just put up the hood on your hoodie???
Doug. :-D

[Racinfan83]

Yeah this one here is the one I have: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050f~Z5Z5Z522658~ P59.95~~~~S43S0AGF2Z97912112481b~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000 050F~~~

I know that's Corvette Central but when I got the part it has a tag on it with Mid America.. :dontknow:

The top side of it is like white plastic as pictured and bottom is thin foam/headliner material. I painted the top of it with black Fusion paint for plastics so it doesn't look funny through the top..

[Paul Workman]

MR2 - Tail of the Dragon etc.
Paul
So that's what it was drapped over your head.
When I was following you thru the twisties I thought you
just put up the hood on your hoodie???
Doug. :-D

Nah, nah, nah... twernt me! [-X That was Nelson wearing a head liner! Mine was R&R'ed before the MR2, or it would have been (a hoodie!).:p

[Mystic ZR-1]

Yep, must have been Nelson. He's always ahead
of the curve when it comes to stylish headwear!!!
:-D. :-D

[Paul Workman]

Yep, must have been Nelson. He's always ahead
of the curve when it comes to stylish headwear!!!
:-D. :-D

Yeah...And besides...If you were close enough to my rear to see that my headliner had drooped (which it didn't), then I really DO need Pete's cams! ;)

[XfireZ51]

$40 for install.

I'll put it on this winter

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/Z51Xfire/52fb76ce39b05190af51169b5d3f9b18_zps1122d9a6.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/Z51Xfire/media/52fb76ce39b05190af51169b5d3f9b18_zps1122d9a6.jpg.h tml)

[nelson007]

Hello Schrade,
I was able to remove the backing but it was really in bad shape. Do you know where I could purchase a new backing?
Thanks,
Nelson



QUOTE=Schrade;206449]I did this a few years ago, and put in new felt (PO was a smoker, and a https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQHAe8E9H1L67ep9DbrZRRZ1cxyCjqfa Cbh5hE6BPCZSxTCoZGlyA ), and had school logo embossed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-75icTK6b26o/U65jAtXWyNI/AAAAAAAAEZQ/Q1b5c4gJ3GY/s1024/x00027a.jpg
I have additional headliners with the C4 logo embossed; send a PM at me here...

I put a butter knife to the edge, to get under it. Make sure to hold the knife flat on the edge, to not scratch...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hTCyxrT2TyU/U65hxacj6HE/AAAAAAAAEZE/tfnGykVBd1g/s1008-c/June282014.jpg

Then you can get a hand in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tRZpKLfdeeM/U65kkjuG-CI/AAAAAAAAEZk/G3qjIpld6Qg/s1024/IMG_6562.JPG

Once you get under the edge, ya' gotta' pull the fabric off of the panel with your fingers. Don't try to pull it by the edge of the foam board - it will break up.

Wear long sleeves!

Go all the way around the edge, then work toward the center.

(at this point, the edge DID break, and I had to go around the other way)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jRUanZ5nRA8/U65la66szLI/AAAAAAAAEZw/4uX9mto3eEg/s1024/IMG_6563.JPG

Lifted. Lots of glue at the center.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ISC46GrG8W8/U65mDwqosJI/AAAAAAAAEaA/gNbvRd_oqko/s1024/IMG_6564.JPG[/QUOTE]

[Schrade]

Not sure Nelson; although I'm bettin' the same fabric shop that had my felt, also has padding of some sort.

Try JoAnn Fabrics, A C Moore, Michaels Arts & Crafts.

Mine was marginal, but with the 3/16" styrofoam added on the backside, + the heavy felt, it came out STOUT (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--VcTqVfb_sc/U9vb6nVOv2I/AAAAAAAAEmM/gme0QbswPII/s1024/IMG_6642.JPG).

And I just got back from road test (still got a little water - noticeable when cold), WITH the new top in. It absorbs some of the exhaust drone, over the glass top.

[Mystic ZR-1]

The same or damn close fabric used by the factory is available at JoAnn
Fabrics. Of course there's no foam attached.
Why use the foam? Just clean off all the old glue, so it's
all nice and smooth and glue on the fabric directly. Use spray
glue made made for fabrics or hobbies, won't "leak" thru.
Do one half, then the other. Worked
fine when I did my last C4.

[Schrade]

GlassTop removeable screen procedure:

Backing material is the same foam board that I used to re-enforce the painted top OEM foam pad. $1.25 each @ A C Moore Arts & Crafts.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O20C4H_ZN2Y/U-_yNo2itTI/AAAAAAAAEss/XKRLfUfQIio/s768/IMG_6669a.JPG

2 used, taped together for size limitation. $1.25 each, available at A C Moore.

Template:

Printer paper, each piece slid under the edge of the frame inner perimeter, overlapped, then trace an outline.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eKfdnObMPPM/U-_zWZt_JxI/AAAAAAAAEs8/EHSzChABRn4/s768/IMG_6668.JPG

Once the outline is traced, carefully remove intact from under the frame, and start cuttin'.

Prepare the foam board.

Both boards next to each other. You're going to put 3 strips of tape (I used fat masking tape) across the 2 boards. The 3 strips WILL BE WITHIN 24" - the height of the template.

Tape 1 side of one board in the middle, at the edge that adjoins the second board (THIS IS IMPORTANT - you want the 2 boards BINDING RELATIVELY HARD to each other with the tape) - then raise the other [outer] side of the second board, just a few inches, and press the tape to the second board.

The second board will pull tightly towards the first board, as it then drops flat. Don't worry just yet if they're not level with each other - we'll address that in a moment here.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9RUZxDyYwXo/U-_2tgulNNI/AAAAAAAAEtQ/nIXZHLpQqSI/s768/IMG_6669.JPG

Repeat the lift-step for the 2nd and 3rd strips of tape, to get uniform binding of the 2 foam boards against each other.

[nelson007]

Thanks, this is very helpful.
Nelson007

[Schrade]

Now carefully flip the boards, and repeat the 3-strip tape procedure. You shouldn't be able to raise the second board very high at all now, because the first taped side is now binding. The masking tape will SLIGHTLY stretch however.

Now put another strip of tape vertically along the adjoined edges of the 2 boards, across the 3 strips, on both sides. Tape from end to end (exceeding the 24" size of the template). Press down well, and THEN SLIDE THE BACK OF YOUR FINGERNAIL UP AND DOWN THE TAPE, ALONG THE JOINT OF THE 2 BOARDS. With the joint binding, it probably is not perfectly joined level. This will accomplish that. Do it both sides.

Now tape the paper frame template to the 2 foam boards, and trace the outline LIGHTLY on the boards. The template doesn't have to be exactly centered on the foam board.

No snappic here; I didn't use a paper template - I used the board cutaway from my painted top re-enforcement.

You now need a VERY SHARP knife - preferably a single edge razor.

DO NOT CUT THE TEMPLATE LINE. Cut approximately 1/4", OR MORE, OUTSIDE of the template line, for 2 reasons: 1) you have to allow for the compound convex of the top surface, and 2) allow for error.

Cut slowly. Probably DON'T attempt to cut all the way through on the first pass. I didn't even cut on the first pass; I scored a line, with my Victorinox blade reversed.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nMGciVksI_s/U-_8K76OEyI/AAAAAAAAEts/Ry80X9jJY1Q/s768/IMG_6670.JPG

This cut will require patience too. Even in front of a single edge, the foam can 'bunch up', in front of the blade (another reason to go 1/4", at least, outside the template line). You might also want to not cut all the way through; rather cut until there's an outline on the backside, then complete the cut from the other side.

The cut edge of the board can be, and will need sanding. I used 120-grit paper. A sanding sponge of comparable grit will work well. Sandpaper will be needed anyway, for the concave forward corners.

Before you start sanding, do a trial fit ALMOST inside the Glasstop frame, to get an idea of where you need to focus sanding. Don't press it all the way into the frame; you might not be able to get it out without mangling it. And while sanding, remember that you want to leave slight excess. You can always take it down further, but it's not easy to put it back on once sanded off. Maybe another reason to buy 4 sheets, when they're only $1.25 each.

Don't worry if you go a little deep with sanding; the headliner screen's felt will need some real estate.

After sanding, I put another strip of masking tape all the way around the foam board, at the joint, to give it just a little more 'strength'. Remember tho', tape is all that's holding the 2 pieces together. Mine seems somewhat sturdy, with moderate handling. Once the felt is applied with the adhesive, and wrapped around, it should have the strength of a single piece of foam. But DO remember this when removing, and installing. Keep your hand with your fingers spread out well, in the center, when removing the screen...

[Schrade]

Thanks, this is very helpful.
Nelson007

You're welcome there Nelson!

I'm thinkin' here too (see the smoke :mrgreen: ), that if you haven't found a suitable pad material, or facsimile thereof, that you can use this foam board.

If it will work in a removable screen, and it looks like it will so far here, it surely can be affixed with permanence.

Haven't gotten that far yet tho'.................................

[Schrade]

This would be very cool in the ZR-1 splash logo.

Thought of that too Dom (not for myself tho'); how much the suede weighs, to be held up with the foam pad, and if it would hold up 2 splashes - one facing INside, and one OUTside... ;)

Figured SOMEone's already started on it by now, with splash. (or Eckler's, CC, Zip, etc. ;) )

2 felts + foam backing = about 4 ozs...

[Z51JEFF]

YiKEs! $50 / QT!

Got any snappics there Jeff? Does it offer any sound absorption at all?

I like the Suede, but I don't particularly like the new Splash image...

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a136/FLYTYM/IMG_0029_zps7893a57b.jpgHere ya go.The only downside to using this on the underside of the top,it took about 6 weeks for the smell to dissipate.$50 a quart?..............Add another $30 for the activater.:-D

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Headliners look very nice BUT......due to our GM Licensing Agreement with EMI, unapproved, trademarked GM logo merchandise cannot be advertised for sale on our Forum or through the ZR-1.NetRegistry at any time.

Locking this Thread down and Deleting for legal reasons.
Chuck, you'll have to do business elsewhere.

FYI
Brett