I think I lost my alternator today, or its real close to crapping out. Belt #? ---

[alwayscode390]

Im thinking I may have lost my alternator yesterday ... not sure yet.

Would it throw a code on the dash if it wasnt charging?

Usually my voltometer reads way higher than I expected it to ... around 15v (between the middle and 18v) , today its hovering around 12v (between 8 and the middle). Could the high reading be a warning sign of a failing alternator?

I smelled a weird smell from the passenger side front of the engine. Definitely an electric smell kinda like rubber and plastic. It was strong enough to notice with the hood down. I wasnt hearing any strange noises though yet.

It could just be that it was 95 degrees out today here ... but its definitely not usual. The battery is a 2 year old Odyssey, I dont think I am having issues there ... all the connections are tight.

What should I look for or keep an eye on? I thought I noticed a thin wire that was cut in half , but it looked to have been that way for a long time untouched around the passenger fan area ... lots of squirrels around here.

I was told to test the battery voltage before a start, while running, and after turning the engine off to see if its being drained? Also a magnetic charge to the back of the alternator if its charging, but thats not really possible in our vehicles.

Do you guys recommend I just take off the throttle body forward, or loosen the plenum/pull it off? Someone mentioned both things to me. Seems like its going to be the most pain in the butt alternator swap I have done?

I may as well throw a new belt on there too, is there a recommended brand? How about throwing me the number if you have it on hand.

I drive the car weekly. I guess I'll know sooner or later if my battery gets drained LOL.

Here is the alternator I was thinking of replacing it with, a 200amp rebuilt Bosch unit. Does this seem like a good choice, the price is reasonable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Alternator-Chevy-Corvette-ZR1-200-HIGH-AMP-91-92-95-Generator-/260527814029?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ca8aaf58d&vxp=mtr

Just making sure but the 91-95's use the same alternator as the 90', right? This one says it is compatible with my 90, but lists it as a 91-95.

Thanks for the advice ---

[Franke]

Sounds like your alt is going bad since you noticed an electrical smell and the voltmeter is reading lower. Put a digital voltmeter on the battery while the engine is running and see if you get at least 13.5 volts. if its around 12 volts chances are the alt is dead. Also when you throw a larger load at it like your headlights see if the voltage drops even further. If it does then its time for an alternator. These cars don't like low voltage due to all the electronics on board. They also don't like higher than normal voltage due to alt diodes shorting. I once saw an alt put out almost 16 volts due to bad diodes. Boy were the headlights bright that night. :)

[alwayscode390]

That will be the plan Franke ... thanks for your advice.

I'll test the voltage out next time I start her up :) , with the headlights too

Does that look like a suitable replacement that I posted up? I would hate to buy it and have it not fit for some reason , but I am pretty sure its just a higher amp internals with a stock housing ---

[WVZR-1]

Does that look like a suitable replacement that I posted up? I would hate to buy it and have it not fit for some reason , but I am pretty sure its just a higher amp internals with a stock housing ---

You need to watch the pulley diameters of the "off the shelf" replacements and quite frankly I believe you could have your original done on a bench locally for less and with likely parts of better or at least equal quality.

Do it yourself if you like. There will be the OE number on your original either 1101238 or 1101849 - there's little difference, maybe only the bridge rectifier.

[alwayscode390]

Someone else I was talking to mentioned swapping the stock pulley and fan blade onto the new one if it looks like the one I posted above. Thanks for confirming that.

I think I will try the Good Year Gatorback belt #4060805 ... after searching, most guys thought it was the easier one to get one for some reason :) ---

[alwayscode390]

I am interested in getting a fully new PowerMaster Alternator w/ 140 amp output.

These are the cs130 style , and we have the cs144 stock ... so I think its just going to be a smaller unit , correct?

Summit Racing says its compatible with the LT5 engine ... if the pulley is different in size I will swap that out like recommended.

Does it seem like this will work decently? I would hate to get the car torn apart and realize it wont work ... figured I would ask before I purchased it. Luckily Summit has an easy return policy.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-37803/applications/year/1990/model/corvette/engine-family/chevy-small-block-lt5-corvette

The larger units ( cs144 style ) are also $100 more w/ the same output for some reason. I figure the smaller unit should fit vs getting anything bigger ---

[alwayscode390]

I just tested voltage at the battery while the car was running, and got 10.94V ... and now the "battery" check light is illuminated.

The alternator is now squeaking too.

My radio head unit wont even turn on with the car off and the ignition turned.

I guess its time for a replacement , but atleast now I know and feel confident. I wasn't sure the other day , I caught it right as it happened and didn't have a chance to drain the battery yet :) ---

[WVZR-1]

I just tested voltage at the battery while the car was running, and got 10.94V ... and now the "battery" check light is illuminated.

The alternator is now squeaking too.

My radio head unit wont even turn on with the car off and the ignition turned.

I guess its time for a replacement , but atleast now I know and feel confident. I wasn't sure the other day , I caught it right as it happened and didn't have a chance to drain the battery yet :) ---

Remove it today and get a local to probably have it ready for you tomorrow AM, install and go driving! I don't see a plus to your thoughts on the PowerMaster. The part # you posted is "chrome" - I certainly wouldn't think that to be the desired product.

I'd be very interested in your argument for the PowerMaster.

Which alternator is on your car now? I posted both in a post up a couple.

Now if it were a CS130D with the internal fan maybe there would be reasons to consider but I'd still wonder "why".

The PowerMaster CS144 for the ZR-1 isn't the same or even comparable output, it's 200/125 vs the 140/80 of the CS130. Another interesting observation is that in the PowerMaster applications they have no application for the CS130 for the ZR-1(LT5)

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/PMappGuideEbook.pdf

[alwayscode390]

Thanks for the application guide link.

I think Summit must have been wrong with their information ... you saved me from buying the wrong one.

I need to stop thinking "cheap" and think quality.

The refurbished ones scare me , I don't want it to be 1/2 used parts and 1/2 new parts ... especially with how big of a pain in the butt the install is on these cars for an alternator.

I will be running 2 amplifiers for stereo stuff in the near future , so the 200 amp one seems like the best choice for me. I trust PowerMaster stuff, I have used them in the past with no issues for years.

Thanks again for picking my brain, you really help me see more rationally ... I like the way you think :) ---

[-=Jeff=-]

When looking our LT5s use the Early style CS144. the Late Style CS144 will not fit.

I believe the correct pulley size that WV mentioned in one of my treads is 62mm which I am using now. I have a larger one and a smaller one ( which killed the last alt)

I rebuilt my own then the Brushes of it shattered and I think the rotor was also bad, when I replaced the rotor and brushes it still failed, so in an effort to get the car done (I needed it) I bought a reman unit. I have yet to buy a new regulator to try and see if that fixes the Alt ( might buy the rectifier too)and keep it as a spare until I can swap it ( I put a bigger Stator in it too)

[alwayscode390]

I ordered the PowerMaster 200amp natural version ... their application page said it was good for our zr-1's ... its the cs144 case , but I don't know the difference between the two versions. I hope its the right one! Thanks Jeff ---

[-=Jeff=-]

do you have a link to it?

[alwayscode390]

Everyone just posts GENERIC pics of Alternators ... I am not sure this is what it will look like or not :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-47864/applications/year/1990/make/chevrolet/engine-family/chevy-small-block-lt5-corvette

CRAP! This Ebay auction calls it the "late model" (maybe their version is different? its $50 more than I paid)... should I call and cancel my order?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powermaster-47864-GM-CS144-Large-Delco-Late-Model-Alternator-200A-Natural-/330832967392?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d072e76e0&vxp=mtr

Whats exactly the difference or where am I going to have installation issues? Powermaster, Summit, and this Ebay seller all say its compatible with the 90' ZR-1 though.

I don't have a garage to take off the OEM one and have it rebuilt, I need a new unit. The one Jerry's Gasket sells is only 124 amp for around $80 less than the PowerMaster 200 amp one, and its rebuilt ---

[-=Jeff=-]

The Late model case is a bit bigger (thicker), look at the rear bearing 'Cap' on the early model it is part of the case, late it is separate cap

Also the case is mainly thicker around the Stator.. I tried a later model, it will not fit without some grinding on the Casing ( I did not want to go that route)


Early:
http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=38487&imageurl=http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=38487&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/Remy/20486_CMB.jpg
http://store.alternatorparts.com/ProductImages/04406_WC.JPG

Late:
http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=38555&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/Remy/21112_CMB.jpg
http://store.alternatorparts.com/ProductImages/04424_WC.JPG

[WVZR-1]

Everyone just posts GENERIC pics of Alternators ... I am not sure this is what it will look like or not :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-47864/applications/year/1990/make/chevrolet/engine-family/chevy-small-block-lt5-corvette

CRAP! This Ebay auction calls it the "late model" (maybe their version is different? its $50 more than I paid)... should I call and cancel my order?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powermaster-47864-GM-CS144-Large-Delco-Late-Model-Alternator-200A-Natural-/330832967392?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d072e76e0&vxp=mtr

Whats exactly the difference or where am I going to have installation issues? Powermaster, Summit, and this Ebay seller all say its compatible with the 90' ZR-1 though.

I don't have a garage to take off the OEM one and have it rebuilt, I need a new unit. The one Jerry's Gasket sells is only 124 amp for around $80 less than the PowerMaster 200 amp one, and its rebuilt ---

Use this 360* view and rotate it until you see the model # on the housing. I don't see any reason for concern. There's way to much conjecture over early and late, very early 90's had one alternator later ones had another (that's early vs. late), the service alternator became "one" and then all through production they remained the same.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-47864/applications/year/1990/make/chevrolet/engine-family/chevy-small-block-lt5-corvette

Stop the view several times and inspect the build. I see no obvious issues!

***
-=JEFF=- and I appear to have hit the button at the same time and the CS144 he's posted images of can't be used when discussing early and late regarding the LT5 alternator. I believe the only difference in the early and late LT5 alternator is the rectifier bridge. I believe the balance of the builds were identical.

[alwayscode390]

WOW, I never noticed the 360 view option , they must take pics of the actual item then.

The picture Summit posted looks like the "early" style case that can be used.

Thank you both for clearing that up for me , I was concerned for a second , HA! -

Whats the deal with the solid plate over the alternator fan blades? They look to be separate, or is it one piece? Should I swap the OEM fanblade over if I'm going to swap the pulley (open blades) ... or leave the PowerMaster solid style blade on if the pulley is the right size (not worth the hassle)? ---

[-=Jeff=-]

Use this 360* view and rotate it until you see the model # on the housing. I don't see any reason for concern. There's way to much conjecture over early and late, very early 90's had one alternator later ones had another (that's early vs. late), the service alternator became "one" and then all through production they remained the same.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-47864/applications/year/1990/make/chevrolet/engine-family/chevy-small-block-lt5-corvette

Stop the view several times and inspect the build. I see no obvious issues!

***
-=JEFF=- and I appear to have hit the button at the same time and the CS144 he's posted images of can't be used when discussing early and late regarding the LT5 alternator. I believe the only difference in the early and late LT5 alternator is the rectifier bridge. I believe the balance of the builds were identical.

Yes.. you are right.. I was referring to early vs late as a populous, not LT5 specific.. the upgraded Rectifier I believe is in all Early style Alternators now

[4-cam]

I brought mine to a local auto electric shop. One day and $75 later I had a new bearings, brushes and rectifier and the original case that I knew fit. You might look around and see if a shop is near by.

[Fully Vetted]

Do you guys recommend I just take off the throttle body forward, or loosen the plenum/pull it off? Someone mentioned both things to me. Seems like its going to be the most pain in the butt alternator swap I have done?



I would recommend removal/loosening of the plenum. I know taking it out the front is possible but reaching a couple of those bolts are a PITA and the plenum cap screws are a piece of cake. Be sure to have a plenum gasket set on hand in case you can't reuse yours.

[alwayscode390]

Fantastic tip about the gaskets, thanks David! ---

[WVZR-1]

You need to establish a "plan" for the charge wire. You're doing a 200 AMP product and you mentioned some accessories so you've got to do something with the "charge wire".

I believe PowerMaster over does it maybe a bit but here's their thoughts and it is their product.

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/charge_wires.html

It will be interesting if you post back with real charging numbers at the RPM's that they claim for their product. You mentioned having their product in the past and I don't know that I've heard many negative comments regarding it.

[alwayscode390]

That makes sense and is definitely something I overlooked.

I wonder what gauge our stock charge wire is? Im hoping 6 gauge since our stocker is 124 amps, and that's what is recommended by Power Master, but it may be 8 gauge too.

Thanks for looking out for me WVZR-1 :) ---

[WVZR-1]

That makes sense and is definitely something I overlooked.

I wonder what gauge our stock charge wire is? Im hoping 6 gauge since our stocker is 124 amps, and that's what is recommended by Power Master, but it may be 8 gauge too.

Thanks for looking out for me WVZR-1 :) ---

I believe you'll find 8M but 8M is equivalent of 8AWG so I'd guess to actualy optimize the system you do need to look into it.

[alwayscode390]

How long of a charge wire am I going to need? They sell them from 2ft to 12 ft.

Is the charge wire tucked through the engine where it is going to be hard to replace the stock one and run a new one ... or is it pretty much from the alternator to the battery around the engine block?

I found a 6 gauge kit that's 5ft long ... does that sound like the one? ---

[Schrade]

Bunch of alternator pics here http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21259

Removal, breakdown, CS144 schematics, FIRE!!!, etc, starting post 141 - 159, 186 - 209

Sure is a bunch of 'Click n Scroll' - what a pain.

[WVZR-1]

How long of a charge wire am I going to need? They sell them from 2ft to 12 ft.

Is the charge wire tucked through the engine where it is going to be hard to replace the stock one and run a new one ... or is it pretty much from the alternator to the battery around the engine block?

I found a 6 gauge kit that's 5ft long ... does that sound like the one? ---

Do the wire "local" - you should have no issues accomplishing a replacement using just local options. The OE also has a fusible link so that needs to be considered in the "how do I replace"? An audio shop should be able to provide you with a proper fuse and holder for the charge wire. You won't find "fusible link" material for 6ga wire so the wise choice anyway would have been a fuse. How many AMP? I don't know that there's simple way to calculate the needs and discussions regarding such are certainly entertaining.


You could eliminate the charge wire from the battery jump block and send it directly to the battery using a different battery bolt/terminal combination. That's how we did some fleets with auxiliary lamps and power requirements. Again an audio shop or a fleet body builder in the vicinity could help you.

Here's a link to a MEGA holder and boots.

http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/mega/megafuse.php

here's ANL and this is what I believe you would find in an audio shop as a rule.

http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php

This holder by LITTLEFUSE should be available at any auto parts store. ANY of them!

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/automotive-aftermarket-products/fuse-holders/mega-holder/298900.aspx

This is the auxiliary bolt like we used for fleets. I've done hundreds of them. This is NOT where to buy but there's an installed image and also one of just the product:

http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/OffRoad-Electrical-Accessories--Components/Battery-Terminals-Chargers--Accessories/p/Side-Terminal-Battery-Accessory-Bolt-sku-STAccBolt001.htm

[Z51JEFF]

When I replaced the belt a few years ago the first belt I had,an OEM part would not go on the car regardless of what I tried.I think I ended up using a Gates belt.

[alwayscode390]

Do it yourself if you like. There will be the OE number on your original either 1101238 or 1101849 - there's little difference, maybe only the bridge rectifier.

My stock one is a number 849, 120 amp version.


I got the Powermaster installed, I dont recommend it unless you are dead set on a 200amp alternator ... it took some modifications ---