My experience with the Hawk HPS brake pads

[Paul Workman]

I can report that the Hawk HPS brake pads were terrific during the 3 days of Tail of the Dragon, and Devil's Triangles,, 6 Gaps, and the like (i.e., the Mountain Run leading up to the BG Gathering). They really, really(!) bite quite well - never failing or fading during the entire 3 days of romping around.

As result, I no longer believe I'll be installing a brake upgrade (C5 Z06 or the like) after all: the Mountain Run showed me that. Apparently there is no need, based on my experience with the Hawks - at least not for my style of driving: I don't track the car and only do a little straight line stuff with just a few trips to the hill country around Galena and Wisconsin.

They DO dust a bit, but apparently only when called upon for driving of the likes we did on the 3-day run. However, the dust cleans right off w/o any special soap or scrubbing required. And, after washing the dust off, there was NO noticeable dusting resulting from the 380 mile trip home, i.e., normal highway driving. I'd have to conclude the C6 Z06 brake upgrade that Dom completed - or even the C5 Z upgrade would, in my case, be beyond anything I have required the stock ZR-1 brakes to do to date.

Of course, your requirements may differ.

Paul

[Gunny]

thanks for the good report, Paul ... I've been using PFC (Performance Friction) pads for 10 years or so but am interested in trying the Hawk the next time around. When I first bought PFC from Autozone the pads came with a lifetime warranty ... return the used, worn out pads and get a new box, absolutely no charge. I think I got 2-3 sets in this manner until Autozone pulled the plug with this offer and no longer honored that warranty ... too many enthusiasts were buying on Thursday, going to the road track on the weekend and coming back on Monday with worn out pads.

[XfireZ51]

You never have enough brake. With the Z06 brakes u also need to commit to compatible/larger wheels. Different strokes...
I'm using Hawk Ceramics

[efnfast]

Paul, just the pad change? No rotors or anything? SS lines? -Steve

[mike100]

The biggest advantage to the C5 brake conversion is the cheaper brake pads, rotors, and calipers. The next thing is the thicker rotors and larger pads for a thermal advantage, but as far as pedal feel the J55 is a little tighter since the caliper mounting is more precise.

The only reason I did mine was because I had a toasted J55 caliper and when I bought the car it had almost the entire conversion kit in a box incl A-Molds so I was able to follow through without spending too much. It is still a lot of work chasing down every last detail like the GTO spare tire, adapter brackets, braided lines, not to mention the GM parts... it is a $1000 task if you buy good rotors.

[Paul Workman]

Paul, just the pad change? No rotors or anything? SS lines? -Steve

Nope. Nothing against rotor changes, but mine were in very good shape to begin with, and as such all I did was follow the usual seasoning routine outlined in the THIS ARTICLE (http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths) to which I can attest to its validity over several vehicles and many sets of pads on sedans, my trucks and Jeeps, and now Vettes...

Even with some minor ripples on the disc surface (other vehicles) I haven't turned a disc on any vehicle in over 15 years. If they're that badly grooved or beveled (calipers sprung), or have hard spots (mistakenly referred to as "warped"), I replace them (and sprung calipers) with new. All that said, I don't road track my car aside from what we did last week. If I did, then that might require more of something more like what Dom has done, or something really expensive. (Nothing against bigger brakes, a la C6 Z06 or the like. But, for my driving style - which is mostly within the parameters of what we experienced on the Mountain Run, I found the combination of the HPS pads on the stock ZR-1 calipers and discs to be more than adequate. Your (and others) mileage may vary!)

Paul

[GSJoe]

Hey Paul, I know I'm chiming in a month late for this thread, but I just saw it for the first time. I want to say I had the same experience with my '90 and fully agree with you. After trying several makes of pads--none of which satisfied me just for street use--someone on this forum suggested trying the Hawk pads. I did and was pleasantly surprised at the tremendous improvement in stopping power over stock pads and several after-market makes. I had already purchased A-molds for my car in preparation for the upgrade to C5 calipers and rotors, but the Hawks ended that plan and expense. They really are good!

[Paul Workman]

Hey Paul, I know I'm chiming in a month late for this thread, but I just saw it for the first time. I want to say I had the same experience with my '90 and fully agree with you. After trying several makes of pads--none of which satisfied me just for street use--someone on this forum suggested trying the Hawk pads. I did and was pleasantly surprised at the tremendous improvement in stopping power over stock pads and several after-market makes. I had already purchased A-molds for my car in preparation for the upgrade to C5 calipers and rotors, but the Hawks ended that plan and expense. They really are good!

Yes, and in addition to the Mountain Run (3 days of twisties), braking from over 140 mph last Sunday I found a very gentle touch was all that was needed to haul 'er down quite easily! NO problems getting stopped - in fact sorta cruised steadily along at about 30 mph on my way to the turn-around at the end of the runway. However! They DO dust a bit. But, what the hell...its a small price to pay for what, as you said, might have been expected from a big brake upgrade.

I'm no longer in the market for bigger brakes either!

[PhillipsLT5]

I installed HPS on stock system, a better feel for sure, increasing horsepower is great but we also need to increase stopping ability and that's not happening by losing weight

[Roadster]

Anyone have the part#'s handy, or refer to the correct page for the pads...Tom

[PhillipsLT5]

Summit
hb112f-540
hb111f-610

[Mystic ZR-1]

Amazon

[Roadster]

Summit
hb112f-540
hb111f-610

Amazon

Thank you....thank you......:-D

[PhillipsLT5]

They work, improvement over stock
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/high-performance-street

[edram454]

when I bought my z the previous owner occasionally took it to the track and he upgraded the brakes with hawk hps pads and the grand sport fron calipers with drilled and slottled rotors, not chinese. this car stops on a dime. no fade. only thing is dust and noise when warm. I dont drive it much so I dont care about the dust etc.. it stops great. I also have a brake bias which also helps quite a bit.

ed ramos #3028

[Paul Workman]

The HPS pads DO dust a bit after some spirited driving or after a few routine drives between washings. But, hey...If the rims need to be washed, so likely does the rest of the car. So! It's not like an inconvenience (to me) anyway.

On another note: Chrome or high-polished wheels:

I am very impressed with the Blingmaster, Inc (http://www.blingmaster.com/) aluminum/metal polish. I've got chrome wheels. I like 'em to look nice, but I hate having to contently fuss with keeping them that way. This stuff not only puts a heck of a shine on chrome/aluminum, but it does it easier and lasts and lasts through many washings. You could think of it as Zaino for wheels. Water beads up and blows dry (leaf blower) usually without any need to touch them. It's a nano-molecular product that bonds with the surface and denies access to the adhesion by dust and road film. Washes and wipes clean very easily. Good chit!!

:cheers:

[emmvette]

I tried the Bliongmaster and didn't like it. I thought it didn't produce any better result than my old turlewax chrome polish. My favorite is Autosol metal polish. On Chrome and especially aluminum, nothing beats it. My '68 has a lot more parts to polish and it does better than anything else I've tried. Even after doing a multi step buffing process, I went back and finished with the Autosol - because it provided better results. I don't claim its easy to use, rub it on until you get the black flim, then polish it off. Takes elbow grease.

[Paul Workman]

I tried the Bliongmaster and didn't like it. I thought it didn't produce any better result than my old turlewax chrome polish. My favorite is Autosol metal polish. On Chrome and especially aluminum, nothing beats it. My '68 has a lot more parts to polish and it does better than anything else I've tried. Even after doing a multi step buffing process, I went back and finished with the Autosol - because it provided better results. I don't claim its easy to use, rub it on until you get the black flim, then polish it off. Takes elbow grease.

I'll try the Autosol. It sounds interesting. A comparison would make for an interesting article for the HOTB, methinks.

That said, Autosol's work is cut out for it. The Bling Aluminator (http://www.blingmaster.com/catalog/i2.html) (to be specific) was an epiphany compared to all other polishes I've tried: easy to apply, easy to polish off, wears like iron - repelling stains incredibly well. (Last time I applied it was spring 2 years ago. Still bright and beautiful, only washed and rinsed and blow dried.

So, if Autosol is better, then the two of them (Autosol/Bling) are so far ahead of off-the-shelf stuff I've tried they aren't even in the running!

ANYWAAAAAAY..... My point was in regard to brake dust (for example) almost rinses off with a garden hose, and most definitely a quick wipe with a soapy wash mit *in combo with the Bling stuff). I can't say that about a lot of other wheel polishes I've tried.

[efnfast]

Amazon

Local business owner?

[efnfast]

How about rotors? If I'm doing brakes at 70K miles, should I be looking for rotors? Stock, or drilled, or slotted, or both?

[Paul Workman]

How about rotors? If I'm doing brakes at 70K miles, should I be looking for rotors? Stock, or drilled, or slotted, or both?

A road course fanatic friend of mine recommended the plain ol cast iron discs; used them on his dedicated race car. He went on to say that there are plenty of drilled and slotted rotors out there, but if ya just hasta buy drilled rotors, the good ones are not going to be cheap.

Much of what my race buddy said is also captured here. (http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths)

I believe when it comes to drilled/slotted rotors there are the real McCoys out there (and have prices to go with them), but a helluva lot (most?) of them are wannabe pretenders out there too.

Caveat emptor: (Let the buyer beware...)

[XfireZ51]

Part of the reason good "drilled" rotors cost is because the good ones are cast that way and then chamfered. That in comparison of taking rotors and then just drilling them.