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View Full Version : Anyone got a schematic of oil flow?


Schrade
04-05-2014, 02:55 PM
Title asks it all here guys - does anyone have this? Cliff? Is it in FSM anywhere here?

EDIT (from FSM; thanks there Bill):

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1wZsYPUzBAA/U0IbxZfh6mE/AAAAAAAAD1Y/TS8XrBSV1XY/s1152-c/April6201402.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l4Gw_XzENSQ/U0IcJvQUOdE/AAAAAAAAD1k/ZQCB1jnYl18/s1152-c/April6201403.jpg

geezer
04-05-2014, 07:01 PM
Chuck : FSM --6A2-13&14. If you don't have it I can email it to you.

Bill

Schrade
04-05-2014, 07:13 PM
Chuck : FSM --6A2-13&14. If you don't have it I can email it to you.

Bill

Thanks there Sir; I can dig it up here from FSM then...

Working on oil change - and thinking on oil that remains after drain.

I put the Shop-Vac on the filter port, like when doing coolant change; THAT seems to pull coolant to where it will allow a little more to drain. Not so with LT5 here - didn't produce ANY more at all.

So I put in some Advance House brand Synthetic, ran it :15, and drained THAT. Now the real stuff.

Probably ought to do the 'drill n tap' to the oil cooler, to get the rest, but that will be a back burner project.

And THANKS AGAIN for the Owner's Manual there Bill! http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif I'll return that favor sometime SOMEhow here!!!

...and can't forget Steve [WeGone] for the CD and Bearly Flying too for the TB screws. Can't forget those kind of favors! Thanks guys.

Dynomite
04-05-2014, 07:59 PM
LT5 Engine and Differential Lubrication Discussion

1. Oil Filter Adapter Functions are discussed in some detail with photos of components of the Oil Filter Adapter.

See Engine Lubrication System Functional Discussion (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580467622)

See Also Tech Info - LT5 Pressure Drop In Oil Lines Calculations (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3117790-tech-info-lt5-zr-1-technical-calculations.html#post1581660575)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/B%20Engine%20LT5/SOilFilterHousingLabel_zps4cacf14a.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite4/e16778a7-93e5-454c-807d-3d136a877a75.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite6/353a8770-2463-4a3d-bd53-860920b2b618.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite6/2844c361-c225-4c5b-be61-a3129d0d14b0.jpg

2. Changing Engine Oil.
Working on oil change - and thinking on oil that remains after drain.



Just spin on a new Oil Filter (after you have changed oil) and fire it up :p

I do not concern myself with Oil Not Drained.....as I will get most of that next oil change and more of the older oil after the next next oil change ;)
See Changing Engine Oil (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3320117-how-many-quarts-and-im-guessing-synthetic-for-90-a.html#post1584636512)

I doubt the engine will suffer at all from running a bit of old old old oil that takes several oil changes to remove.

3. Changing Differential Fluid.
Now on the Differential....... I did add the differential drain plug for the simple reason that NEW Removable Plug is at the bottom of the Differential and much easier to get any contaminants that settle removed by gravity vice sucking wherein you might not be sure where you are sucking from exactly.

See Item #4 LT5 Added Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html#post1579114180)

Schrade
04-05-2014, 08:10 PM
Got it Cliff; thanks there.

But I need another shot of the 4 products on the Z's back end there - mind obligin' there? :mrgreen:


ed.:
And how do you guys pre-load the filter? Fill it and drain? Then screw on??? Don't even bother?

Tyler Townsley
04-05-2014, 09:51 PM
Existing diagrams do not include all sensors ie idiot light sensor is not shown in any of the diagrams I have seen.

Tyler

Schrade
04-05-2014, 10:14 PM
Existing diagrams do not include all sensors ie idiot light sensor is not shown in any of the diagrams I have seen.

Tyler

Thanks there...

Cliff - Black out the taillight louvres, to match up color with 'CORVETTE'.

Dynomite
04-05-2014, 11:13 PM
Working on oil change - and thinking on oil that remains after drain.



Just spin on a new Oil Filter (after you have changed oil) and fire it up :p

I do not concern myself with Oil Not Drained.....as I will get most of that next oil change and more of the older oil after the next next oil change ;)
See Changing Engine Oil (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3320117-how-many-quarts-and-im-guessing-synthetic-for-90-a.html#post1584636512)

I doubt the engine will suffer at all from running a bit of old old old oil that takes several oil changes to remove.

Now on the Differential....... I did add the differential drain plug for the simple reason that NEW Removable Plug is at the bottom of the Differential and much easier to get any contaminants that settle removed by gravity vice sucking wherein you might not be sure where you are sucking from exactly.

See Item #4 LT5 Added Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html#post1579114180)

Paul Workman
04-06-2014, 08:42 AM
A lot about nothing? Synthetic oil in a "weekend", street-driven car is going to be good for 7.5 to 10k or even as high as 15k miles between changes*, according to some, and keep in mind the LT5 w/ cooler holds about 12 quarts!

Two points:


First, the ≈ 12 qt. LT5 oil capacity was established in the late 80s before wide spread availability of synthetic oil for automotive use. So, with the use of modern synthetic (like AMSOIL AMO 10W-40) the combination of large capacity and synthetic characteristics extends the practical change interval significantly.

Second, with that in mind, assuming one can drain about 10.5 qt. over night, then that leaves only ≈ 12.5% of the old oil in there to mix with the new, and if you're like me and change at about the 6k point (or every other season, which ever is first) there is NO insignificant advantage or need to be concerned about that remaining 1.5 or so quarts.


As for pre-loading the filter, think about it: The filters recommended for the LT5 have a valve in them specifically to keep the filter pre-loaded to reduce zero oil pressure time while cranking/starting. Seems logical to me the focus might better be put on pre-loading the new filter and less on worrying about draining the last quart or two of oil (which is likely waaaay under utilize in the first place) that makes up only a small percentage of the total oil fill.

JMO...


* http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html

Dynomite
04-06-2014, 10:35 AM
As for pre-loading the filter, think about it: The filters recommended for the LT5 have a valve in them specifically to keep the filter pre-loaded to reduce zero oil pressure time while cranking/starting. Seems logical to me the focus might better be put on pre-loading the new filter and less on worrying about draining the last quart or two of oil (which is likely waaaay under utilize in the first place) that makes up only a small percentage of the total oil fill.

JMO...


Marc Discussion of Anti Drain Back on several Oil Filters (http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/LT5%20Oil%20Filter%20Review.pdf)

Marc suggests the M1-207 oil filter retains 4 oz of oil at 8 hours which adds up to 1.4 sec (1.4 seconds on new EMPTY Oil Filter) to oil pressure start up time :p

Where I am coming from, it takes longer than 1.4 seconds to build oil pressure replacing all that oil that has leaked back from all the oil locations in the LT5 engine sitting higher than the oil level in the oil pan....no matter if your oil filter retains oil or not ;)

And I like the fact that when I remove the M1-207 oil filter after letting the engine sit overnight there is absolutely NO oil spill and I further notice the oil sitting in the top of the Oil Filter Adapter has also leaked back. Now using a anti-leak back oil filter would probably keep that oil from draining back causing a lot of mess when changing oil filters............A very small price to pay for an additional 1.4 sec of chain rattle which does not harm the engine.

I might further add......most engine Oil Filters sit right side up which may sit full of oil (unlike the LT5) . When you change oil filters, however, the NEW Oil Filter is empty on start up (I know of no one prefilling oil filters causing a mess especially for oil filters sitting at an angle)

Further.....changing the normal oil filter that sits right side up is always a mess when you unscrew the Oil Filter with oil dripping down the sides of the oil filter unless you have let the engine sit for a long while. That is a benefit changing Oil Filter on the LT5 which Oil Filter is nearly empty and absolutely NO OIL SPILLAGE if you let the engine sit overnight before changing Oil Filter.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite6/2844c361-c225-4c5b-be61-a3129d0d14b0.jpg

Schrade
04-06-2014, 02:55 PM
Yes - it probably is alot about nothing there Mr. W...

I thought I'd read once on the boards here that 2.5 qts remained (although if mistaken - it's not the first time, and probably not the last).

Even then, I try to get it all. A small fleet of engines was my living for 20 years, and a relatively good one at that). Some might call it an 'anal' tendency, and I'll get over it....................

One fleet van was a '95 Ford 250. Drained it one Sat AM, for :30, and tried to screw on the wrong filter. After :45, and a trip to Advance / Zone for the right one, I pulled the plug again, to see if any more came out. I got 3/4 qt. additional. Plus, I use 'Motor Flush', to increase drain velocity, and maybe pick up additional motor jam from the pan. Never had a fleet vehicle fail, and they all had good squeeze in the holes @ 250k...

efnfast
04-06-2014, 03:20 PM
My last Ford Ranger, one of four, had 300k on it. I faithfully changed the oil every 10,000. Used Slick 50 every 50,000. Ran great when I sold it.
My current Ford Escape POS gets it's oil done every 7,500. No additives. Runs fine, leaks a little.
Now my ZR-1 gets 9 quarts of Amsoil seasonally, about 10,000 miles. Amsoil says 25,000, course it runs harder than normal, plus I add probably 4 quarts in the mean time. No fancy draining techniques.

Paul Workman
04-06-2014, 04:23 PM
Some might call it an 'anal' tendency, and I'll get over it....................



Naaah... It's called OCD, and you've got it bad! LOL!!:p (But, there's good drugs for that!:icon_boun:icon_boun:icon_boun!!)

Schrade
04-06-2014, 08:27 PM
Naaah... It's called OCD, and you've got it bad! LOL!!:p (But, there's good drugs for that!:icon_boun:icon_boun:icon_boun!!)

Well, you need my address to share?

j/k; I keep a belly full of pain meds from mixing up with a drinker in '06 anyway. No complaints tho' - I'm above room temperature, unlike him - he and Beethoven have been de-composin' for years :dontknow: And no; I wasn't in my Z - if I was, I'd be @ room temp too :eek:

Still, 1.5 qts old oil just doesn't seem necessary.

Who is it on the boards here who put in the drain plug in the cooler? Got snappics?

Schrade
04-06-2014, 11:37 PM
post 1 edited for flow schematic from FSM...