Headers Installation...

[Schrade]

1. The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 1 characters.

Fine - how 'bout 3 characters: http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s343/headsshot/th_3stooges.gif
.................................................. .................................................. ........

Anyway, down to business here... headers in, with a different # on the labels. I ordered H-AB055, and H-12055 came in (A = 1, B = 2?)

No phone #'s for Customer Service of course, so we're in the dark as far as part # confirmation. Gotta' wait for someone to answer en email. :rolleyes: .

[Karl]

Did you order those from rpd?? If so they are the same as mine with the same part number. Looking at it tells me it's correct. The other piece with the slight angle 3" to 2 3/4" reducer won't work with the full 3" exhaust. Nothing major there.

Mine are sitting on my living room floor yet to be installed.

[Schrade]

Did you order those from rpd?? If so they are the same as mine with the same part number. Looking at it tells me it's correct. The other piece with the slight angle 3" to 2 3/4" reducer won't work with the full 3" exhaust. Nothing major there.
Sure did there PR; eMail from 'tommy' @ RPD late last night - they are correct for Z.

Yeah - they LOOKED right, but looks - well, you know...


Mine are sitting on my living room floor yet to be installed.

... as are mine. No wrenchin' in snow!!!

[XfireZ51]

That looks like a very short collector on that header.

[Shrek]

I sure could use those cats, since my OBX cats were welded to the Power Effects system you have.

[Karl]

That looks like a very short collector on that header.

They are basically the same as the stainless works factory connect full length header.

[Z06scentair]

That looks like a very short collector on that header.

Dom,

Is that a good thing or bad thing for the LT5?

[Schrade]

I sure could use those cats, since my OBX cats were welded to the Power Effects system you have.

I haven't dry-fit yet there Jeff; is there a section I do not actually need here? PM me.


That looks like a very short collector on that header. Is that bad? Or real bad?

[Z06scentair]

How much snow Schrade? We have about 4 inches here....which is an improvement considering the previous measurments.:)

[bradley]

if you order the stainless works headers that come with the cats that's what you get basicly no collector at all that is why I switched them out to coreys headers . to get a decent collector from stainless works you have to order the off road headers. and then have cats put on yourself

[We Gone]

Wondered what you were going to use that 38 caliber cylinder for. LOL

[Z06scentair]

Appears to be S&W .357? Model 66, 686?

Now you want know which is the FRONT and which is the REAR....lol

Hey I just noticed the LT5 thingy is gone from under my name....and I'm a paid up customer now, I worked so hard posting useless comments to achieve such status.

Still curious about the S&W cylinder you have their.

[Karl]

Are we taking guns or headers?

Fyi, I am a Glock man.

http://postimg.org/image/402swhoib/

[Z06scentair]

Me too:proud:

[We Gone]

Nice job....

[Z06scentair]

Agree with Steve job well done!

She really let you use the stove to do job of such?

[Z06scentair]

Time to get a hack-on.

Outta' the fryin' pan, and into the hot stuff.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TBiKkS2A37A/Uv6WlTKPRuE/AAAAAAAADs8/2Wy0dx9QfHA/w1290-h870-p/February142014

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YO0B4t2XaHM/Uv6W2BmSQwE/AAAAAAAADtI/rzUWyrLRJ_U/w1290-h870-p/February14201402

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bCfuUTYvYak/Uv6XS_qJZkE/AAAAAAAADtY/MxhCAgqzc50/w1290-h870-p/20140214

and the easy part ... is not yet done ...

(and in the meantime, do feel free to ante up free $$ )

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mDzdcgKbQcs/Uv6XeZWblFE/AAAAAAAADtw/k0UyHN3yRsY/w1290-h870-p/2014021402

You didnt have to cut the exhaust did you?

If not I want it/need it please!

[Shrek]

Time to get a hack-on.

Outta' the fryin' pan, and into the hot stuff.



https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YO0B4t2XaHM/Uv6W2BmSQwE/AAAAAAAADtI/rzUWyrLRJ_U/w1290-h870-p/February14201402

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bCfuUTYvYak/Uv6XS_qJZkE/AAAAAAAADtY/MxhCAgqzc50/w1290-h870-p/20140214

and the easy part ... is not yet done ...

(and in the meantime, do feel free to ante up free $$ )


Just so you know, those are not factory exhaust connections and will not bolt up to factory cats.

[Schrade]

Just so you know, those are not factory exhaust connections and will not bolt up to factory cats.

Thanks Jeff; Brad - just talked with Jeff - I was not realizing here that he was directing the info at you.

My pipes HAVE been hacked, and you'd need either to mod your own cat 'outs', or get ALL my hardware. It's up to you there. I had no problems with leaks, vibes, etc. PM @ me here.

[We Gone]

Factory connections.

http://imageshack.com/a/img196/2913/5dnq.jpg

[Z06scentair]

Im still trying to find a factory set to NCRS my car. Steve offered me his to use, but I would rather purchase a set to have with the car.

It's the only Item I need to make my car Original, but like my old man says their only original once!

[USAZR1]

Im still trying to find a factory set to NCRS my car. Steve offered me his to use, but I would rather purchase a set to have with the car.

It's the only Item I need to make my car Original, but like my old man says their only original once!


What exactly are you looking for? I'll try to keep an eye out for it.

[Z06scentair]

What exactly are you looking for? I'll try to keep an eye out for it.

Sorry Chuck not trying to hi-jack your thread.

Just need a full exhaust from a 1990 minus the exhaust manifolds.

[VetteVet]

I've got one from a 1991. Are they the same?

Jep

[XfireZ51]

Sorry Chuck not trying to hi-jack your thread.

Just need a full exhaust from a 1990 minus the exhaust manifolds.

If ur looking for something after cats, an LT-4 exhaust should work.

[Schrade]

Anyone with PE pipes think that the exhaust controllers at the end of the pipes can be remotely controlled? Jeff? Dave?

Electronically or by vacuum?

[Shrek]

Anyone with PE pipes think that the exhaust controllers at the end of the pipes can be remotely controlled? Jeff? Dave?

Electronically or by vacuum?
Pretty sure they offered that option when they were in business. Plus I believe the power capsules (mufflers) were used on many different applications other than vettes, so it might be worth a search.

Found this on the capsule itself! http://www.powereffects.com/tech.htm

Jeff

[Schrade]

Spent :30 minutes getting 2 ex manifold bolts loose P side. Wow.

I found 2 ex manifold bolts missing on the 4-hole.

This is looking like a BIG job...

[Z06scentair]

Spent :30 minutes getting 2 ex manifold bolts loose P side. Wow.

I found 2 ex manifold bolts missing on the 4-hole.

This is looking like a BIG job...

Chuck,

I will say while mine was on the lift a couple of months back, it appeared the header swap would not be a simple job.

You can do it though, I have confidence in you Pal!

[4-cam]

Schrade
I just went through this. I certainly didn’t document the installation up to your standards though.
Many of the bolts are accessible easiest from under the car with long extensions. Have a good assortment of extensions, swivels, swivel wrenches and short stubby combo wrenches. I used my ¼ “socket set on most bolts as mine were not that tight or corroded. The Passenger side is easiest. DR side a bit more difficult. I had to loosen the heat shield and bend it a bit on the DR side to get all the bolts off. New Header installation is much easier.
Order a new dipstick tube gasket from Jerry if you haven’t already. My SW headers required that I make a dipstick relocation bracket. (I copied the basic design of Pauls bracket…. Thanks Paul!) I would bet your OBX headers will need it also.

If you or anyone else needs to reinstall the AIR tubes on your headers, I have a stick of 304 – 3/8 OD Stainless tube that I have left over from my installation. What a bit@# to bend.

Good Luck

Darby

[mike100]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2XUBPHPU9pk/U1gXm0GYdiE/AAAAAAAAD5k/EQSksfwCbns/s1152-c/April23201402.jpg



You can take the manifolds off without the removal of those parts, but it should be easier now. Youre gonna have to loose the engine off the mounts and raise it up a couple of inches.
BTW, I could use one of those rubber T's and maybe those 2 1-way air injection valves if you want to trade for something.

[Schrade]

Thanks Darby http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Standards? Hmmm... Not sure if 'Schrade', and 'standards' should be used in the same sentence there, but...

How many ex man bolts did you find NOT installed? Was there an OEM spec for NOT installed bolts? I have 5 empty holes so far, and someone said something about some bolts missing. (from the car's PO's? Or OEM build?)

Anyone with OBX's know if fabbing a dipstick bracket is the best option like 4-cam's, with SW hardware???

I've just unloaded $145 for swivel head/gear wrenches NOT counting a first set of Kobalts 8 pc metric for $94 :eek: (just got 7pc @Advance for $69...).

I have a stick of 304 – 3/8 OD Stainless tube that I have left over from my installation. What a bit@# to bend.

I AM going to connect the AIR fitting here Darby - is metal tube the only option? If so, send what you've got, I can forward $ PP or M/O, unless you're looking for exhaust or tranny hardware or some other stuff, that I'll probably give away here - PM @ me here.

PM me an address there Mike, and which parts you're needing.

[efnfast]

I bought a dipstick relocation bracket from Paul, the guys that installed my OBX headers really appreciated it.

[4-cam]

Hmmm Raise the engine might have been the part I missed. I didnt but my hands did bleed a lot and the DR side came out real hard.

A far as the air tubes go I supposed you could pipe in some kind of flex. Some have cut the old ones off the old manifolds and used them. I saw on Marc H website how he did it and copied the Idea. Pic on how I did mine. Had to teach myself how to tig weld again after 30 yrs. Kinda scary being a rookie welder and burning on a set of $900 headers. These have the AIR positioned in the stock location. The crossover tube between L & R side needed a little massage to fit correctly.

If you need the tube its yours. PM the address.

[Schrade]

Hmmm Raise the engine might have been the part I missed. I didnt but my hands did bleed a lot and the DR side came out real hard.

A far as the air tubes go I supposed you could pipe in some kind of flex. Some have cut the old ones off the old manifolds and used them. I saw on Marc H website how he did it and copied the Idea. Pic on how I did mine. Had to teach myself how to tig weld again after 30 yrs. Kinda scary being a rookie welder and burning on a set of $900 headers.

If you need the tube its yours. PM the address.

Welding there Darby???

Will a compression fitting cut it?

[efnfast]

We also shimmed the motor mounts to lift the engine enough so the headers didn't rub on the steering column.

[4-cam]

You could use a compression fitting to fasten the tubes but you would stilll need some threads to screw it into.

[efnfast]

My install guys fabed up an extention for the O2 sensor. Someone makes one, wish I knew in advance.

[carter200]

I think Haibeck has the extensions.....

[4-cam]

Seems like every time I touch an electrical connector on my Z I break it. Many tools out there to remove the pins on these. This is the one I got. I was able to find all connectors from Rockauto or napa. Check your knock sensor connector while your under there. Mine fell apart when I touched it.

[Dynomite]

Seems like every time I touch an electrical connector on my Z I break it. Many tools out there to remove the pins on these. This is the one I got. I was able to find all connectors from Rockauto or napa. Check your knock sensor connector while your under there. Mine fell apart when I touched it.

What is that specific tool called or where did you get it?
Thanks :cheers:

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3423&d=1398302729

[Blue Flame Restorations]

What is that specific tool called or where did you get it?
Thanks :cheers:

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3423&d=1398302729

Looks like a sputnik

[4-cam]

Lisle - Terminal Tool LIS-56500 I got mine on ebay but im sure other sources are availble.
If you get a new connector it has wires already in the connector. This tool will release the wires and allow you to use the existing terminals so you dont have to splice the wires. You Tube has some good demonstration videos on how to use it. Just search terminal tool.

[Paul Workman]

Paul W? How much, Paul? $PP? M/O? Check?

PM'ing you my address here...

I think it took :15 to get the pipes down here; took my time, oiled the bolts...

(does seem like I was here a month ago :rolleyes: )

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x8xTPrRjgbM/U1hA-LMwr7E/AAAAAAAAD6A/7hiQxQmHu90/s1152-c/April23201403.jpg

Out of stock. But, I can make another batch if you (or anyone else) needs one

[Dynomite]

Lisle - Terminal Tool LIS-56500 I got mine on ebay but im sure other sources are availble.
If you get a new connector it has wires already in the connector. This tool will release the wires and allow you to use the existing terminals so you dont have to splice the wires. You Tube has some good demonstration videos on how to use it. Just search terminal tool.

Thank you.....just got two on Ebay :thumbsup:

[mike100]

My install guys fabed up an extention for the O2 sensor. Someone makes one, wish I knew in advance.

The 3-wire O2 sensor was an interim oddball configuration until GM went to the more common 4-wire unit. I made my own extensions. There is a post on this forum somewhere with all the weatherpack connector parts listed that you can get online or at Napa. You only need it for the passenger side.

[4-cam]

Nice going.
I think I had every extension I own with every conceivable combination of socket and adapter on the floor when I did mine. Didn’t know I owned that many tools till I had to put them away.

[4-cam]

D side was the hardest. P side the easiest I found. Could have been my learning curve.

[Franke]

I saw you got it all on and fired up. Did you get emissions done yet? Not sure if Schrade has to deal with that in NC.

[4-cam]

Schrade
Just condensation i would think. You do get a bit humid in NC.
Do you have to go thru emissions in NC? I know you were looking at adding the AIR tubes back on.
I did get mine fired up and it failed emissions. I am about Double the HC limit. NOX and CO are really low. The testing station had issues with the dyno so it sat to long. Plugs are really running Hot. Cats are not getting hot enough. Dominic advised running a colder plug and is reviewing the Data Log. We will get it ironed out.

[Schrade]

Lean burn = HOT burn; higher NOx's, lower HC's

Rich burn = cooler burn; lower NOx's, higher HC's

EGR add exhaust to intake burn mix to lower burn temps, reduce NOx's.

[4-cam]

I agree. But plugs are white. Kind of contradicting the emission readings. New cooler plugs tonight and rescan.

[mike100]

Cold plugs might elevate HC's. I once put in a plug 3 ranges colder on a tpi engine that was only 3 years old at the time- and it would not pass the smog check on our shop analyzer (I used to do this back in the 90's before they went to 5-gas). We used to use the gas analyzer more for tuning than smogs some days, but there is a sweet spot so I would say to never go more than +/- 1 heat range or you could be chasing your tail for awhil;e trying to get the car to run clean.

[mike100]

Schrade
Just condensation i would think. You do get a bit humid in NC.
Do you have to go thru emissions in NC? I know you were looking at adding the AIR tubes back on.
I did get mine fired up and it failed emissions. I am about Double the HC limit. NOX and CO are really low. The testing station had issues with the dyno so it sat to long. Plugs are really running Hot. Cats are not getting hot enough. Dominic advised running a colder plug and is reviewing the Data Log. We will get it ironed out.

what were the o2 and CO2 readings like?

also, high HC's, but good CO could be from a lean misfire/vacuum leak or weak ignition causing incomplete combustion. the o2 levels help tell the story on lean vs rich conditions. even a restricted injector will contibute to lean, but my money is on vacuum leaks/ignition issue.

[Schrade]

Could be condensation, but it's been cold and DRY all Winter - I know that cause I been electrocuted every time I got out of my car this Winter.

D side has been a cakewalk so far - kinda' bothers me, although pipe is still hangin' by the centering stud ( break time ), and need solvent for block pan cleanup.

Still need to know if there was a spec for flange bolt skipping. Each side had same 6, of 16 bolts.

Anyone?

[Franke]

Could be condensation, but it's been cold and DRY all Winter - I know that cause I been electrocuted every time I got out of my car this Winter.

D side has been a cakewalk so far - kinda' bothers me, although pipe is still hangin' by the centering stud ( break time ), and need solvent for block pan cleanup.

Still need to know if there was a spec for flange bolt skipping. Each side had same 6, of 16 bolts.

Anyone?
Schrade, if I remember right, someone on here awhile back indicated that there are a couple of bolts that are not used on the header flanges from the factory. I'll bet Dino knows and some others too.

[4-cam]

They all came with several missing. I didnt count as I knew that they were short from the factory from previous posts so it didnt surprise me. Id guess 4 to 6 were not there on each side. I think I'm missing at least two per side on the SW headers I just installed as the bend is to tight to get them all in.

[4-cam]

I have two of the same washer left over! They fell out when I removed the fender well. Aluminum and about 1/8 in. Thick. Looks like a shim but I dont know were mine came from

[Schrade]

Both of those F/W washers are present AAF there Darby, masking taped into place...

[4-cam]

Where do they go? Mine are still on the work bench.

[Paul Workman]

What DID they use to hold the gaskets in place in BG???


I used a smear of the RED, HIGH TEMP RTV on both sides of the gasket to stick it in place. That center bolt serves as a convenient hanger to hold the gasket in place. Just have to be careful not to accidentally scrub it out of place while situating the header.

[Dynomite]

Camshaft Position Sensor
Knock Sensor

Below the Knock Sensor would be the Oil Level Sensor mounted on the Oil Pan if the LT5 is a 91' or later.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite/f1130daa-bdb7-4a72-874b-9aa3b6ea8ee6.jpg

Now.....do not clobber it all up trying to fix it :sign10:

[Karl]

I have my top end done, less the.cylinder heads and what a difference!!!

The obx headers hit the steering rack and required a ding in the #1 tube to clear. I don't like it and plan on having the #1 tube reshaped. Pete showed me some Jeal and Watson headers and they all needed a ding to clear, but the obx a little more.

This car has some balls now and is quite impressive. I will have some new dyno numbers soon to post.

Good luck!

[XfireZ51]

I have my top end done, less the.cylinder heads and what a difference!!!

The obx headers hit the steering rack and required a ding in the #1 tube to clear. I don't like it and plan on having the #1 tube reshaped. Pete showed me some Jeal and Watson headers and they all needed a ding to clear, but the obx a little more.

This car has some balls now and is quite impressive. I will have some new dyno numbers soon to post.

Good luck!

Amazing what a little more air does for these motors, isn't it? BTW, my Watsons required no mod. The tubes are 1 7/8" on these, which I think has no real affect on power.

[Karl]

The obx are 2", and I am most likely mistaking the brand of one of those headers in petes garage.

[XfireZ51]

The obx are 2", and I am most likely mistaking the brand of one of those headers in petes garage.

Karl,

No I think you are right. He has Jeals and Watsons there. Some of the interference is vehicle specific depending on how the motor is positioned.
1/8" can make a diff.

[efnfast]

My OBX rubbed on the steering shaft. Had I known this before I had them coated I would have dimpled them. Instead, we shimmed the motor mounts. Don't go too crazy, there ain't much room under the hood to lift the engine.

[4-cam]

Wouldn't be any fun if it bolted right in, then any body could do it. It seems like I always have to be a bit more creative when working on the Z. Nothing seems to go as planned but I think thats why we we all seem to enjoy these cars...... there just little different if you know what I mean.

[Z06scentair]

Bolt right in... Dream on Schrade.

Where's J Becker? What pipes do you have with your automatic? Anyone else been here???

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So we're still working on clearance for the shift linkage. As little milling / modification as possible here.

The PE 3" pipes are designed for a C4, and the D side pipe even has an angle recessed for an LT1 with a 4L60e - I got a CLOSE fit, with no milling. But it was too close, with heat a consideration. The tranny control module has a temp monitor w/ warning, for the tranny fluid heat.

So I decided to wrap the header-to-X-pipe sections (oops - gave away the header wrap excess :o ), and the wrap made for contact with the shift linkage - the rubber boot / sleeve. The additional wrap might also quell some drone...

For the 'Pittman' arm 'A' at the shifter, I can take some bend out, without affecting the shift shaft range of motion. Getting 'Park won't be a problem - it gets the 'P' detente. I never go there anyway - e-brake for parking...

I also zipped off about 1/4" - 5/16" off of that stud for the cable end, along with about 1/3 of the bolt itself, for additional clearance.

Then the rear cable stay bracket has to be given about 1/4" additional recess at the Blue. Bending THAT bracket is out of the question - it has re-enforcement in the 'square'.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pntVrrk02GU/U2wq6k8XS0I/AAAAAAAAEFQ/qm-hDRV4L40/s1024/IMG_6444.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eWEBU8WrAVo/U2wv-Cu7KMI/AAAAAAAAEFk/LJEmZHny8o4/s1024/IMG_6444c.JPG

Looks like you have it whipped into shape Chuck!

They sell some velcro heat sheild you could wrap the linkage with. It comes in a few diameters to fit each subject matter.

Made by a company called DEI??

If you could removed a small section on the header wrap, would it give the clearance needed?

[Schrade]

What's up Brad...

I had clearance without wrap, but it was too close. I wanted heat protection.

It will clear once I get the bend in forward, and the bracket recess opened up inward toward the pan.

#1 cleared the steering shaft. Only things I see now is the dipstick, and O2 reach.

Everything ELSE should bolt in.

No chance of beach time next week there Brad? Gonna' try to get up with J Fletcher and do some range time one day. 9 beds; only me, sis + stepmom... Gonna' squeeze a few .30 Carbine, M1A .308. My Rock-Ola is a REAL tack driver, ESPECIALLY for .30 Carbine... ;)

[Z06scentair]

:proud:

Only things I see now is the dipstick, and O2 reach.

Everything ELSE should bolt in.

No chance of beach time next week there Brad? Gonna' try to get up with J Fletcher and do some range time one day. 9 beds; only me, sis + stepmom... Gonna' squeeze a few .30 Carbine, M1A .308. My Rock-Ola is a REAL tack driver, ESPECIALLY for .30 Carbine... ;)

Racetronix sells extentions for the 02 sensors. The ones I ordered for the Z06 were very long. Once they were plugged in and folded several times, I put that DEI wrap over the wiring and tied up out of the way.

Chuck next week will be impossible for a me. A young man still having to grind out to make a buck!

I appreciate the offer and hope you have a great time.

You and others should look into the show at MB in June I spoke of!

[aafc]

Headers and auto,
I use JEAL headers with power effects cat back system.When i put the
4l80E auto in i removed the ball joint on drivers side and made it a slip joint
just like the pass side.
On the pass side i cut the collector just after the weld
a pie shape to move the collector away from the transmission pan by about
3/8 in. I installed the shift cable then the exhaust on drivers side of course
it rubbed , marked the rub area removed exhaust made adjustment. Re install
shift cable then exhaust and got just enough room. Ok now remove exhaust
for room to work rapped DEI alu tape around shift cable about 6 in long. I
left the shift arm uncovered. Now because the exhaust tubing hangs a little
lower i routed the shift cable over the top of the transmission which helps
keep the cable away from the exhaust pipe. I have some pics but having
trouble posting them. i can e-mail to you if you what them.
Some exhaust tubing of the same size as the power effects was used to
connect the collectors to the power effects curved pipe then to the
resonator

John

[Schrade]

Headers and auto,
I use JEAL headers with power effects cat back system.When i put the
4l80E auto in i removed the ball joint on drivers side and made it a slip joint
just like the pass side.
On the pass side i cut the collector just after the weld
a pie shape to move the collector away from the transmission pan by about
3/8 in. I installed the shift cable then the exhaust on drivers side of course
it rubbed , marked the rub area removed exhaust made adjustment. Re install
shift cable then exhaust and got just enough room. Ok now remove exhaust
for room to work rapped DEI alu tape around shift cable about 6 in long. I
left the shift arm uncovered. Now because the exhaust tubing hangs a little
lower i routed the shift cable over the top of the transmission which helps
keep the cable away from the exhaust pipe. I have some pics but having
trouble posting them. i can e-mail to you if you what them.
Some exhaust tubing of the same size as the power effects was used to
connect the collectors to the power effects curved pipe then to the
resonator

John

Wow!

Sounds like I'm having a picnic, compared to THAT!

I WOULD like to see some snappics of that hardware...

[Schrade]

Do cat shields go into place with headers here???

[We Gone]

I put back all the ones that fasten to the frame & tunnel, just not the ones that were on the original manifolds.

[Schrade]

Got it there Steve; thanks...

And the AIR pump? Just pull the plug?

[We Gone]

Yes, I also removed the air pump completely and covered the plugs so they would not get corded.

[aafc]

Still working on getting up photos. Here is the THERMO-WRAP that i used on the
shift cable. DEI cool -tape in Jegs on line catolog, part # DEI 186-010408
cool-tape 1 1/2" wide by 15 ft. long. Price just 17.99 .
John

[Schrade]

Still working on getting up photos. Here is the THERMO-WRAP that i used on the
shift cable. DEI cool -tape in Jegs on line catolog, part # DEI 186-010408
cool-tape 1 1/2" wide by 15 ft. long. Price just 17.99 .
John

No big deal there JB; I was just curious to see what you got workin' there...

I got headers both sides locked in, FORGOT TO GET THE DIPSTICK IN PLACE. Hope it will snake in between the pipes...

P side O2 not connected yet either... Will it reach? Will I be able to re-route the harness :pray when we get back on it?

Rest of pipes should be a cakewalk - had to pack up and head for the NC coast for a week here.

[aafc]

here are the photos of transmission and exhaust system .


http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=272&pictureid=2567

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=272&pictureid=2566

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=272&pictureid=2568

[Schrade]

Nifty work http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Does your tranny controller module readout for fluid temp?

I went to see George C last week in Pittsburgh, and I THOUGHT he said one of your automatics went belly up, and I'm wondering if fluid heatup might have been the issue there...

I was concerned about that, so I decided to wrap the secondary sections as precautionary measure.

You get quicker ET's with automatic?

One GS Registry user said he does get quicker ET's with his GS auto conversion....................

[aafc]

I run two transmission temp units. I run one from the pan itself and one internal
on the transmission controller.on a hot day (85- 90 deg) external reading
is about 175 deg and internal reads 185-206 deg. Yes the auto is a lot quicker
but you have to remember that my motor was rebuilt to 368 in with stage one
cams by Aaron @ SGC. Makes 550 hp at crank with 418 Rwhp thru the
auto. If i stage deep (put out top light) i run 7.70 to 7.75 @ 94 mph (1/8 )
mile. If i stage normal ( both lights on ) i run 7.60 to 7.65 @ 94 mph (1/8 ).
The heat trouble was caused by early and late parts installed in transmission.
upon closer inspection we found that out the second time. All is good now
I also installed heat barrier in the transmission tunnel while trans was
being built ( that's the silver you see in the photos)
John
1990 white/black # 2546
one of a few ( and more being done by other owners) auto EQ ZR-1.

[aafc]

That wire is the ground for the transmission pressure gauge ( line pressure ).

John

[Schrade]

That wire is the ground for the transmission pressure gauge ( line pressure ).

John

2 fluid drain plugs http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif . Fluid change interval? Fluid type? Torque Converter have a drain? Do you have a fluid radiator up front?

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=272&pictureid=2568

Line pressure solenoid ground... I've thought about that John; a missing ground in the tranny controller module / FPS fluid pressure solenoid ever since getting it back a year ago, because of my 'singing' FPS fluid pressure solenoid circuit, pitch thereof in sync with the TPS range of motion (Closed Loop only), audible here. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hujg7xtlC38)

Did you add in that ground? Or was it part of your Tranny Controller Module harness? Your 4L80e IS electronic???

Sound comes from inside the case. It does it Ignition 'ON', motor OFF, OR motor running, ALL GEARS.

All leads in the TCM circuit are present and accounted for.

RPM Transmission guys (built the Stage V tranny) gave it a listen while I had them on the phone. I could here the video ON THEIR END, over the phone. They said normal, but definitely louder than normal in mine...

Any thoughts on that JB http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon5.gif

Investigation soon.....................................
---------------------------------------------------------

Anyway, back to hackin' on the outpipes.

Is there a harness connector for that O2 somewhere?

Just thinking of re-routing the O2 from existing loom, to elsewhere, where it will hit home W/O an extension...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZIbTjd30S1A/U3e3sGOcEjI/AAAAAAAAEJI/5TBnLWonRNY/s1024/IMG_6496.JPG

[4-cam]

There's a connector under there , just follow the wires. I think it was easier to get to with the section of cross member removed that your oxygen sensor is laying against. Its attached to a little aluminum shield. Kind of a pia to get too.

[Franke]

Yep what 4-cam says. I had to get to that connector to change the O2 sensor and you need to remove that cross member on that side to get to it.

[aafc]

Ok the 4l80E is an electronic from a 1996 chevy truck.It was rebuilt in 2009
by performance automotive transmission center located in Bossler, LA.
The unit is stage 2 with 1st gear 2.75, 2nd gear 1.57, 3rd gear 1.1 and 4th
.75. Rear end gears are 3.73.
Fluid change interval checked each month before and after drag racing.
fluid type Dextron III .
no drain on TQ. converter.

Transmission controller is made by Compushift (see Photo )
Unit displays
Tach (rpm) , gear your in, battery volts throttle opening ( % ) , TCC on/off, temp trans (internal ), pressure (% ) line. Also have line pressure gague
next to Tach.

I use a ron davis racing rad with built in trans cooler, plus a 24" cooler
(see ) photo just behind the front spoiler ( cut outs help direct cool air thru
the cooler).

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=273&pictureid=2571

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=273&pictureid=2572

John

[Schrade]

Thanks for postin' snappics there JB; always lookin' here for more ideas.......

Ok the 4l80E is an electronic from a 1996 chevy truck.It was rebuilt in 2009
by performance automotive transmission center located in Bossler, LA.
The unit is stage 2 with 1st gear 2.75, 2nd gear 1.57, 3rd gear 1.1 and 4th
.75. Rear end gears are 3.73.
Fluid change interval checked each month before and after drag racing.
fluid type Dextron III .
no drain on TQ. converter.

Transmission controller is made by Compushift (see Photo )
Unit displays
Tach (rpm) , gear your in, battery volts throttle opening ( % ) , TCC on/off, temp trans (internal ), pressure (% ) line. Also have line pressure gague
next to Tach.

I use a ron davis racing rad with built in trans cooler, plus a 24" cooler
(see ) photo just behind the front spoiler ( cut outs help direct cool air thru
the cooler).

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=273&pictureid=2571

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=273&pictureid=2572

John

[Schrade]

I'm wonderin' here what we got wrong - looks like there's a few options for D/S placement... except of course, for bolting in the top.

Where's Steve here - you said 'get ready' for the dipstick...

I have a tube / pipe bender, to swing the top upward, so I might bring it up between 4 + 6 pipes - LOTS of room there, with 4 bolts possible to use - #4 rear INboard or OUTboard, OR #6 front INboard or OUTboard.

'A' arrows to OUTboard, #6 front, and OUTboard #4 rear (anyone know the ID # for each bolt??? ).

(and dipstick is square in port, without GROMMET, ATM )

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8HxBSGnnycg/U3kZR7yUE6I/AAAAAAAAEJc/b0i85fuknqA/s1024/IMG_6497.JPG


OR ...

[4-cam]

I placed mine centered between holes 2 & 4. I used the #4 bolt to attach the tube bracket I made. I bent the tube slightly to get the placment correct. Mine was complicated by the air tubes. Be glad you did not have to add these.

[Schrade]

I looked at that cross member earlier; not gonna' pull it until I have to... I might have been able to get at the quick connect by pulling the header, but that didn't appeal either.

I wanted to re-route the entire O2 line, to behind the block. But the harness goes underneath the plenum - same harness as the starter it appears. Even then, the O2 quick-connect is still snapped in behind the motor mount, so that was still a no-option.

I spliced in a 4x extension - weatherproof connector with snap-lock splicing clips. 3x wasn't available. Continuity passed; ground good too.

WIth a couple of existing bolt sockets near the KS, I'll have a way to secure the extension harness.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-78JQYjSzs0o/U3lnU73I4uI/AAAAAAAAEKg/H5wff4oXOn4/s1024/IMG_6499.JPG

Then the O2 extension, with 3 more snap lock splicing clips; an additional 14" of line in the O2 wasn't appealing either, but re-routing behind the block wouldn't work.

Type 13 Copper Anti-Seize on the O2 threads:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o3JFFzzVMFo/U3lpwIdVdwI/AAAAAAAAEKw/kZcQfbIBo8s/s1024/IMG_6502.JPG

[Schrade]

So now we need some DEI metallic loom for the O2 harness extension, and fabbed bracket (or 2), in the unpopulated bolt holes.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AGNi2gcn_pg/U3l4sEKP-3I/AAAAAAAAELI/EZG2Q8Q_0SU/s1024/IMG_6512.JPG

I tried a longways length of heat wrap / wire-tied, but that ain't right...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-thV-wNodabo/U3l8odYQeoI/AAAAAAAAELY/hIq3dwdrDzE/s1024/IMG_6504.JPG

[4-cam]

Be careful using those snaplock connectors on an electronic signal. They work ok for splicing in trailer lights or a radio but the MV signal coming from the O2 sensors is very sensitive. If you need to do a splice I would solder each connection and heat shrink the wire.
Ive had issues with those in the past at work in control wiring.

[mike100]

OK, the lesser item (the 'a-hole'), I carefully formed a minor dent in my header to allow a faster to fit there. You may not care to do that, but I felt the radius and intrusion level would not affect power at all.

The more important issue- parts store slice joints are NOT going to be acceptable in the harsh environment near the engine exhaust and even if you could heat shield it, the potential for voltage drop due to exposure is something I would worry about.

If you remove the k-frame cross member (5 fasteners incl the 18mm motor mount nut), then you can unplug the 02 sensor with two long screwdrivers manipulated like chop-sticks.

Here is a link to a post I made on how to build a 3 pin GM weather pack extension:
http://zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=175901&postcount=4

Jegs is cheaper, but you can get this stuff at NAPA if you can't want for the Brown Truck.

As for how to keep the wire harness away from the pipes and close to the block... I slid the harness into some heat shield tube and bolted a GM starter shim to the spare M6 threaded hole on the passenger side block.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Miscellaneous-Repair-Parts/Starter-Shim-Universal-Type/_/N-25l8

you can bend this to simply hold the wires close to the block and you only need the single fastener.

[Schrade]

Oxidation was a thought, but I did the same thing with my LT1, without problems... I can watch it in DMaster, and if I have to unload, it won't be nearly the same as pulling OEM pipes again. I still have DM recordings to compare.

[Schrade]

At the connection:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1Mb3HDd6D8M/U3qLuQdjolI/AAAAAAAAEMQ/PDVBYtl5-B0/s1024/IMG_6515.JPG

and @ the header (real professional looking http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii8/patheticcockroach/smileys/th_hmm.gif ) :

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-stAQodhka30/U3qMDemWCLI/AAAAAAAAEMc/ghvUh8yC44g/s1024/IMG_6516.JPG

[Schrade]

Alright there Frank / Mike; any feedback to be had here now?

( 'DEI Cool Pipe' is rated to 500' CONTINUOUS)

(I stayed with the splice SnapLockers, gonna' have to learn that lesson the hard way :p ; I put in a spot of RTV to each end of the clips, then electrical tape. As I said before, I did an O2 splice on an LT1 sans problems)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XpQmfgGMY9k/U3q9IbwY0cI/AAAAAAAAEOM/Wsg8TJEpN68/s1024/IMG_6521.JPG

and a little further back

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S-Kviel1Wmw/U3rDjfUqcNI/AAAAAAAAEOc/TahwhLucbgI/s1024/IMG_6523.JPG

[Bearly Flying]

Shrade; Your OCD is starting to show. Looks to me that you have it covered. The header wrap should provide a measure of protection for the wiring. There is quite a bit of airflow through the engine bay, unless the wires are extremely close or touching hot parts, You should be good.

[Schrade]

Shrade; Your OCD is starting to show. Looks to me that you have it covered. The header wrap should provide a measure of protection for the wiring. There is quite a bit of airflow through the engine bay, unless the wires are extremely close or touching hot parts, You should be good.

http://www.coh2.org/images/Smileys/huhsign.gif

This mean no more free parts there BF?

[Franke]

Chuck the upholstery looks good from here.

[Schrade]

Shrade; Your OCD is starting to show. Looks to me that you have it covered. The header wrap should provide a measure of protection for the wiring. There is quite a bit of airflow through the engine bay, unless the wires are extremely close or touching hot parts, You should be good.

Hmm... I didn't get the D/S bracket milled concentric with the washer here BF; wonder if my ET's will take a hit http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Thinking/thinking-020.gif

http://www.garath.net/Sullla/Smilies/run.gif

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FHBVwhFSjnk/U3u5OYVSMkI/AAAAAAAAEO0/nn3AnSqxxGU/s1024/IMG_6525.JPG

Dry fit...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H-EqaQfBZvk/U3u6sgIFJ7I/AAAAAAAAEPE/iPiCyaJqrOQ/s1024/IMG_6524.JPG

[Paul Workman]

Hmm... I didn't get the D/S bracket milled concentric with the washer here BF; wonder if my ET's will suffer http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Thinking/thinking-020.gif

http://www.garath.net/Sullla/Smilies/run.gif

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FHBVwhFSjnk/U3u5OYVSMkI/AAAAAAAAEO0/nn3AnSqxxGU/s1024/IMG_6525.JPG

Dry fit...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H-EqaQfBZvk/U3u6sgIFJ7I/AAAAAAAAEPE/iPiCyaJqrOQ/s1024/IMG_6524.JPG

That looks a bit flimsy. You can get some steel stock from the hardware store - suggest some 1/2" x 1/8" strap. Use a 1/2" long 1/4" carriage bolt, nut and lock washer to hold the DS flange tight! (tightness will afford a good bit of rigidity.)

[Bearly Flying]

I think you got it covered Schrade, your ET's should be good.

No problem with parts, if you need something, I will see what I've got.

[Schrade]

That looks a bit flimsy. You can get some steel stock from the hardware store - suggest some 1/2" x 1/8" strap. Use a 1/2" long 1/4" carriage bolt, nut and lock washer to hold the DS flange tight! (tightness will afford a good bit of rigidity.)

I've got some angle iron and flat iron around here somewhere; what do you cut brackets from there Paul? Do you spot weld them? Or leave them free?

Access to change will be easy, although I tried to move it to rub the pipe, and it's pretty tight strapping doubled.

And now, was one of the flange bolts longer? I didn't notice, as if it matters now..................

http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon5.gif

Black PTex non-hardening in the D/S grommet:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tBKVnmQ5O98/U3v4ciLZkHI/AAAAAAAAEPo/PUKJzNNxoSc/s1024/IMG_6526.JPG

Clean up removed hardware:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nolja0zbD8Q/U3v49S_RGjI/AAAAAAAAEP0/v10IAd_3N64/s1024/IMG_6527.JPG

[4-cam]

Looking good! She ought to be making some noise shortly. Lots of little details for " just putting headers and exhaust on the car" isnt there! It sounded so simple when I started my project. Im sure you feel the same way but it will be worth it in the end.

[Schrade]

Hit a BIG snag...

I had done a dry-fit pipes with the P side headers hung from only the center stud. That allowed header 'play' for the X-section meet-up behind the tranny. Then with the P side header locked in, the second section of PE pipe hit the tranny pan flange, front corner.

It looked like pipe compression AND pan milling was going to be necessary, but.....

So I dropped the auto pan (a nice mess), and the pipe was clear of the case by plenty. And the auto has 1K on it, so not a bad time to do fluid / filter change for break-in.

So we zipped off the lip from the pan flange, polished the edge, hung the pipe, and fit the pan.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SpMT5naf2Qs/U3-ZlkveKWI/AAAAAAAAESM/RmZqBuGHjKA/s1024/IMG_6538.JPG

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Great work, Chuck!! I really like your attention to detail.

[Paul Workman]

Wow - what a wrestling match.

All the hardware is hung loose. Only center the clamps and lock down, before pulling the trigger...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rac1zrFZ2e8/U3-3CNj9TSI/AAAAAAAAETw/QSlpBSH2p_o/s1024/IMG_6542.JPG

Boy-yo-boy, I don't like the exhaust clamp bolt hanging down from the exhaust pipes like that!:eek: It looks really nicely done, but take it from me, they will catch on the darnedest things and cause all kinds of headaches (ask me how I know!!) Everything from driving up on a U-haul car hauler to speed bumps, to driving up onto a hydraulic lift for wheel alignment (that one really got mine) to dead possums on the road!

In my case, I have some repair work on my X pipe to do as result. So, I highly suggest you rotate those clamp bolt sections to the side, if possible. Otherwise it is a problem waiting to happen. Trust me!

Very fine work, Cliff. You can come over and clean my engine bay anytime!!

P.

[XfireZ51]

OH MOST DEFINITELY, rotate this clamps. Clearance is at a premium. You don't want to make it worse or you may be running open headers without any intent to do so.

[Paul Workman]

OH MOST DEFINITELY, rotate this clamps. Clearance is at a premium. You don't want to make it worse or you may be running open headers without any intent to do so.

:rolleyes: Yeah, no kidding! I experienced that very thing - not on my Z, but on another car. Caught between a concrete wall and a semi while rounding a curve, a piece of concrete on the road came into view. No place to go, so I tried to straddle it best I could. Instant open headers!!:censored::frown:

[mike100]

^^^ don't worry, it will melt the required clearance after a few drives (or you could trim it)- but yeah- headers touch that.

[Shrek]

Ours is that close and our headers have no heat protection at all. After 5K miles it shows NO signs of melting whatsoever!

[Schrade]

Ours is that close and our headers have no heat protection at all. After 5K miles it shows NO signs of melting whatsoever!

Got it; thanks there Jeff. And thanks for the deal on the hardware too...

Road test light hammer, everyone is happy here. Finish fenderwells, and then start on

http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon5.gif

[Bearly Flying]

Shrade, with the detail you have put into your car, you will have no problem. You are doing a Great job. Your Car will be awesome.

Keep up the good work with the Photo's

[Schrade]

So we're addressing 'drone' / resonance here - sound that's at or below 20 Hz.

3/16" styro-foam board added to the painted top headliner DID reduce interior drone, over a glass top. I noted this after making a recording of interior sound in the car, and then playing it in a media player on the computer, with a graphic equalizer.

Reduction was marginal.

Sheet cork placed under the rear cargo area carpet reduced drone even more, but still not enough.

So now, it's more header wrap on the pipes.

Everything from the X-section back, dropped, and another roll + 2/3 of wrap.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XyNflJivrfU/U_E16KQN7UI/AAAAAAAAEuA/WfZYyvDuQo0/s768/IMG_6676.JPG

X-section, + 2 aft X-section pieces done. Harmonics I KNOW will be altered with this wrap, as tightly as it's on here...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kndPlmrGYXg/U_U9J5Z8NkI/AAAAAAAAEvY/EH5ginxYtzc/s1024/IMG_6678.JPG

And rear-most sections wrapped:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p1zE67AEUQU/U_k5AxFciNI/AAAAAAAAEws/Vm8jYluP7xo/s1024/IMG_6682.JPG

[Schrade]

If I reversed the X section, and the aft 2 sections, how would that effect flow dynamics?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6ybuyUVQx_w/U_JuD4StzDI/AAAAAAAAEuo/TehdWfSFaok/s1024/IMG_6542c.JPG

[WARP TEN]

Hi Schrade--I see you have a Power Effects exhaust. That was one of several I tried when I was testing exhaust systems in the mid to late 90s. Wrote a couple of articles on exhausts. I loved the sound and the fit and finish of the Power Effects but it has the most horrible resonance of all the systems I tested and there is no real solution to it short of fabricating Helmholtz resonators for it.

As I noted in another exhaust post today in general discussions, when I had my PE system on I had an acoustical engineer from Outboard Marine take the car for a day and test it. He instrumented it, provided graphs of the frequencies throughout the rev range, including the big spikes at 1800 and 3400 rpms, and calculations for the proper sized Helmholtz resonators for each of the two offending frequencies. (Those are what the stock and Corsa systems use to quell resonance). At the time I was in fairly constant communication with the guy who owned Power Effects. I liked the PE system so much otherwise I wanted to help him solve the resonance problem so I sent him all the info I got on how to incorporate the resonators and eliminate the problem. Unfortunately he was primarily a designer and had then just agreed to sell his company so he did not want to make any changes. To this day they sell the same system I tested back in the late 90s. I no longer seem to have the info on the resonance but I believe Jim Voter and Marc Haibeck may still have copies of the graphs and resonator calculations.

As has been noted before, after all my testing of systems I ended up with Corsa for the better part of 15 years on two cars due to lack of resonance and max power, until I finally went back to stock with cutouts.--Bob

[XfireZ51]

PE system always struck me as something a bit overthought and pretty heavy especially in the rear.

[Schrade]

EXCELLENT INFO MR B. PERFECTLY ANSWERS MY QUESTION ABOUT DRONE. KUDOS TO YOU SIR!

Even tho' there's not really a solution, short of buying more hardware - we'll see if any drone reduction can be had with additional wrap, and additional interior sound-damping material, such as Dyno-Mat, or something comparable here.

So think twice Kevin..................

Hi Schrade--I see you have a Power Effects exhaust. That was one of several I tried when I was testing exhaust systems in the mid to late 90s. Wrote a couple of articles on exhausts. I loved the sound and the fit and finish of the Power Effects but it has the most horrible resonance of all the systems I tested and there is no real solution to it short of fabricating Helmholtz resonators for it.

As I noted in another exhaust post today in general discussions, when I had my PE system on I had an acoustical engineer from Outboard Marine take the car for a day and test it. He instrumented it, provided graphs of the frequencies throughout the rev range, including the big spikes at 1800 and 3400 rpms, and calculations for the proper sized Helmholtz resonators for each of the two offending frequencies. (Those are what the stock and Corsa systems use to quell resonance). At the time I was in fairly constant communication with the guy who owned Power Effects. I liked the PE system so much otherwise I wanted to help him solve the resonance problem so I sent him all the info I got on how to incorporate the resonators and eliminate the problem. Unfortunately he was primarily a designer and had then just agreed to sell his company so he did not want to make any changes. To this day they sell the same system I tested back in the late 90s. I no longer seem to have the info on the resonance but I believe Jim Voter and Marc Haibeck may still have copies of the graphs and resonator calculations.

As has been noted before, after all my testing of systems I ended up with Corsa for the better part of 15 years on two cars due to lack of resonance and max power, until I finally went back to stock with cutouts.--Bob

[KILLSHOTS]

Since this is turning into more of an exhaust thread than a header thread, vis-a-vis the drone issue, I just gotta say: Corsa is unreal! Confirmed on my first highway drive today. ZERO drone at any RPM with a system that's basically straight pipes. Amazing, amazing system.

[efnfast]

Since this is turning into more of an exhaust thread than a header thread, vis-a-vis the drone issue, I just gotta say: Corsa is unreal! Confirmed on my first highway drive today. ZERO drone at any RPM with a system that's basically straight pipes. Amazing, amazing system.
My OBX, that is a copy of Corsa, also has no drone.

[Paul Workman]

My OBX, that is a copy of Corsa, also has no drone.

Not zackly a copy...

The "resonator" of the OBX uses perforated tubes - like a "glass pak" muffler might have, whereas the Corsa is a true (Helmholtz type) resonator. The difference being the Corsa utilizes an opening at the front of the chamber for sound waves to enter, then be reflected out of phase (thus cancelling) the low frequency sound waves. And too, IIRC, the Corsa mufflers too have a similar setup, but are affective in cancelling the higher frequency resonance (occurring around 3.4K rpm).

As far as performance goes, outside of noise reduction, Marc Haibeck and Pete do not appear to be of the same opinion on the matter. As I understand it, on the one hand, Marc H. is on record favoring the Corsa as part of his 510 hp upgrades, whereas Pete is of the opinion that what is essentially a modified 3" B&B type with a "Stainless Works" type X-pipe and flappers (for resonance abatement) is better. Both are successful at making power from the 5.7L LT5s (among others).

I followed the 3", X-pipe route, because it was cheaper and easy for a DIY'er to fab up, AND it seems to be a proven system (Pete's car, among others), And because too it preceded Marc's announcement regarding the findings he made with the Corsa. Also, the Corsa cancels the low frequency resonance, but does not address the high frequency notes, resulting in a "tinny" sound - at least to my ear: a personal thing.

I'm at 432 rwhp w/ stock TB and cams using what is essentially Pete/B&B approach (see signature). And, it drones. I can't wait to install the NPPs to address that issue!

Getting to this point has been a trial and error journey. And, in the end I can't say I saved a nickel or have realized performance over what might have been the cost of the Corsa. Performance trumps sound, IMO, and Pete's system seems to have both of what I like...EXCEPT that drone - the reason I'm interested in installing the NPPs (with Mike 100's control system) as soon as possible.

[XfireZ51]

Paul,

I'll have to give you a ride in mine and see what you think.

[Paul Workman]

Paul,

I'll have to give you a ride in mine and see what you think.

Love to!

I studied Mike's system, and was especially interested in his experience with mountains - leading to his active (electronic) control system vs. vacuum only. Soon I believe I will duplicate his system, or perhaps resort to a simple manual switch approach - haven't decided yet.

Note: Mike's article appears in the (members only) ZR1NetRegistry's New Letter.

[XfireZ51]

For those interested in the Z06 setup, here's a vid of Al's car w the Z tips, DynoMax UltraFlows and SW Xpipe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GahF-zO6VSA&feature=youtu.be

[Billy Mild]

So overall how hard of install of the headers is this? It sounds like some of the issues were from the size of the automatic transmission you have. Is that correct?

How long would an install take? Any special tools required?

[Schrade]

It wasn't difficult at all. Just about all steps are in this thread (along with lots of other junk of mine).

Only tools I bought was a set of swivel head gear wrenches that Cliff suggested. I have a new set of offset gear wrenches that you can have for postage - got a snappic here somewhere, although I don't know that you can get away with it on header removal.

The automatic was a minor issue, even tho' the exhaust hardware (minus headers) is made for LT1 C4 W/ 4L60e, I do believe. And my auto was built INSIDE a '95 C4 4L60e case. You won't see that issue of course...

I spent about 2 weeks on it, but only because I get carried away cleaning everything that I can get a solvent sprayer and paintbrush on, when parts are out of the way.

[Billy Mild]

It wasn't difficult at all. Just about all steps are in this thread (along with lots of other junk of mine...

Only tools I bought was a set of swivel head gear wrenches that Cliff suggested. I have a new set of offset gear wrenches that you can have for postage - got a snappic here somewhere, although I don't know that you can get away with it on header removal.

The automatic was a minor issue; you won't see that of course...

I spent about 2 weeks on it, but only because I get carried away cleaning everything that I can get a solvent sprayer and paintbrush on, when parts are out of the way.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gear-wrench-8-piece-reversible-ratcheting-combination-wrench-set-metric-9543/25984326-P

I have a set of these in metric. Did you need something other than these?

[Schrade]

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gear-wrench-8-piece-reversible-ratcheting-combination-wrench-set-metric-9543/25984326-P

I have a set of these in metric. Did you need something other than these?

I'm pretty sure that's all you need.

Plus an extension for the passenger side O2 connector. I got lucky fabbing one up with splicing clips, but everyone suggested against it. Using dielectric grease, and RTV to seal might have made the difference in my case.

Access to the P side O2 harness connector might be a challenge. It's behind the P side motor mount. I couldn't even see it to shoot snappics...

[Schrade]

Drone / resonance in the interior - is just about gone, although I STILL would like it quieter if possible.

The pipe wrap took more off, than the extra styrofoam in the headliner, and the cork sheeting underneath the rear cargo carpet COMBINED.

[Karl]

Schrade, you make dropping the exhaust with the car on jack stands look like a piece of cake.

How high did you get the car and any tips on removing the exhaust system?

I need to remove my exhaust to get to the center beam bolts and it seems somewhat intimidating without a lift.

Thanks!

[Schrade]

If I can do it on jackstands, anyone can.

What kind of hardware are you going with there Karl?

I would DEFINITELY spray EVERY bolt with thin lube before putting a wrench to it. And check out Cliff's links. (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16778) I got a few snappics posted, but he probably has more comprehensive info...

I had front end perhaps 4" higher than front ramps would have had it up. (wheels off tho').

P side O2 harness connector is behind motor mount. I think everyone said that motor would have had to be supported / lifted, to access motor mount, and O2 harness connector.

DO REMEMBER the placement of the ex man flange bolts. I found IDENTICAL MISSING BOLTS PATTERN ON D + P SIDES. I'm certain it was by design (from BG).

Pulling the frame - to - hood support brackets really made it easy. Only real problem I had was the one bolt for that bracket, which broke loose the IN-FRAME spot welded nut, THEN I had to zip the head off with a Dremel, while the nut fell inside the rail.

Fixing that was sort of a hack, but it is tight now...
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22996

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v7q4OmlYH1U/U1bUUU3X7RE/AAAAAAAAD4w/mU_35xEfWrg/s1152-c/April222014.jpg

[Paul Workman]

So overall how hard of install of the headers is this? It sounds like some of the issues were from the size of the automatic transmission you have. Is that correct?

How long would an install take? Any special tools required?

Butting in here, I found the most time consuming PIA was getting the stock heat shields off. Once those little bastards were off, the removal of the stock exhausts and the installation of the (SW) headers was simple.

I moved the O2 sensor bungs to the lateral side of the header collector on the new headers. This makes the installation/removal of those sensors a cinch. This makes installing wideband sensors (e.g., at the dyno shop) a snap - you don't even need to jack up the car to get to them later (i.e, tuning). It required me to splice an extension to the O2 wire harness, and then wrapping the leads with heat shield sleeves before tucking them out of the way.

Note: If I can get air going over a berm and come crashing down on moist clay at 60 mph and NOT rip the O2s off the headers, I'd say they're safe from most anything you might run over, save a deer or the like!;)


I don't know what Schrade is talking about when he mentions "Pulling the frame - to - hood support brackets really made it easy." Have to ask him for clarification, but the hood "bracket" (aka hinge?) is not involved. (I must not be understanding something.?)

I wanna say it took me 6 hours to get the stock heat shields and manifolds off. But, the new headers were in place and buttoned up within an hour, IIRC.

You will have to fashion a dipstick bracket once the headers are on. I can make one for you and send it, if you'd like. Just one little PIA not to worry about. (PM me for details).

[Karl]

I already have headers on the car. I am just removing the 3" b&b cat back exhaus to install the zf doc beam plates. Looks simple enough. I installed these beam plates on my 85 years ago but the exhaust was already off the car. There is no way I can remove to the bolts with the 3" system on there.

I also pulled the factory o2 sensors and they look horrible and the electrical connectors were breaking apart. They are being replaced.

[Schrade]

All the pipes BEHIND the headers ARE cake to pull there Karl. I think ANY hack could have them down from J/stands in :20, if they take their time. Hardest part is getting the bolts BACK in the spring hanger, just forward of the differential, at RE-assembly. Maybe lay out an old sheet or some cardboard too there, so you don't have to slide your hardware on the concrete.



Don't feel bad there Paul - even I don't know what I'm talking about here sometimes. http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif THat's why I post snappics with arrows and notes too there.

I was talking about the bracket / strut that goes from the frame to the hood support catches (below). I don't think you can pull OEM hardware withOUT removing them??? And no one ever mentioned it when I started. No big deal there................

Butting in here, I found the most time consuming PIA was getting the stock heat shields off. Once those little bastards were off, the removal of the stock exhausts and the installation of the (SW) headers was simple.

I moved the O2 sensor bungs to the lateral side of the header collector on the new headers. This makes the installation/removal of those sensors a cinch. This makes installing wideband sensors (e.g., at the dyno shop) a snap - you don't even need to jack up the car to get to them later (i.e, tuning). It required me to splice an extension to the O2 wire harness, and then wrapping the leads with heat shield sleeves before tucking them out of the way.
Note: If I can get air going over a berm and come crashing down on moist clay at 60 mph and NOT rip the O2s off the headers, I'd say they're safe from most anything you might run over, save a deer or the like!;)I don't know what Schrade is talking about when he mentions "Pulling the frame - to - hood support brackets really made it easy." Have to ask him for clarification, but the hood "bracket" (aka hinge?) is not involved. (I must not be understanding something.?)

I wanna say it took me 6 hours to get the stock heat shields and manifolds off. But, the new headers were in place and buttoned up within an hour, IIRC.

You will have to fashion a dipstick bracket once the headers are on. I can make one for you and send it, if you'd like. Just one little PIA not to worry about. (PM me for details) .


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5WyyRt5GFTE/U30-CXeSB2I/AAAAAAAAERk/bzauHhd9f7Q/s1024/IMG_6534.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9TeYE1AZN2w/U30-2MKfj3I/AAAAAAAAERw/a0LMm9iPjro/s1024/IMG_6535.JPG

[orthodoct]

Moved from Charlotte to TN. Don't have to put up with that liberal bulls**t here. Thoroughly enjoyed trashing that damned AIR PUMP and all of its tentacles on my '92. All a rock of crap anyway; the more efficient the engine, the cleaner it runs. No, we do NOT claim that hypocrite SOB Al Gore in this state. We think that his pop was a postman from CALIFORNIA!