Headers install tips? Cliff???

[Schrade]

Headers should be here in a few days; anyone got tips? Snappics?

Did this once in a CJ-7, with lots of working real estate; not quite so much room under this twister...

[Dynomite]

Headers should be here in a few days; anyone got tips? Snappics?

Did this once in a CJ-7, with lots of working real estate; not quite so much room under this twister...

Exhaust System Replace with Headers (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564059)
Exhaust Headers Locking Bolt Tricks (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564063)

I would definitely use Stage 8 Locks and take your time.....You do not have to place Header Bolt in every manifold bolt hole.

Installing Headers and Exhaust (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-5.html#post1581825195)

I would highly recommend using a 1/4 inch socket, 1/4 inch Universal and 1/4 inch extensions (wobbles) as much easier to work in tight spaces around Headers.

Also....I think the Stage 8 Bolts are steel and can be picked up using a magnet on a stick...so have that handy :D

[We Gone]

Be ready to address the dip stick were it attaches to the header bolt.

[Schrade]

Thanks there Steve; will keep it in mine here...

Cliff - second link is dead Dbase error
Post 45 - Exhaust System Replace with Headers (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564059)

Dropping bolts? You mean there's hiding places UNDER the headers? :eek: THAT'S good news...


Now if you drop stuff....here is the tool...

[Dynomite]

Thanks there Steve; will keep it in mine here...

Cliff - second link is dead Dbase error


Dropping bolts? You mean there's hiding places UNDER the headers? :eek: THAT'S good news...
The links seem to work for me.....

I mean dropping those locks (two parts consisting of the lock and the keeper for the lock) which are thin and find themselves among the header tubes.....:p

[efnfast]

Regarding the stage 8 bolts, I couldn't get the keepers on, actually, the shop that installed my headers couldn't get the keepers on. The clip was thicker than the groove it goes in. So in other words, I paid $75 for header bolts.

[GOLDCYLON]

Remove the inner fenders for more room.

[mike100]

Getting the original manifolds off are the biggest challenge. You need to remove the fender liners as previously mentioned and some fasteners are easier to see with the engine raised up an inch or two so you need to take off the motor mount studs. I also found more room by removing the frame K-member reinforcements down below as well. The next biggest issue is the dipstick and then how to connect the rest of the pipes to the headers. There's a good amount of room to slap on the headers once the original parts are removed.

The original manifolds only used 7 fasteners to attach to the head- you do not have to use all 16. basically you can't get them all unless the engine is out of the car...if you get about 10 or so, you should be fine. I had to retighten a few of mine about 2 times until the gasket was set from heat cycles.

you need one o2 sensor extension on the p/s. It is the oddball 3-wire plug only used for a couple of years by GM until they went to 4-wire O2 sensors. I couldn't find an off-the-shelf unit so I made my own out of GM weather pack parts at Napa (I made a post somewhere about that I think). I also bough some heat sleeve for both O2 harnesses since the new pipes route differently and the O2 sensors are farther downstream exposing the wire harness a little more.

[efnfast]

My headers rubbed on my steering shaft.
Someone here fabbed up some dip stick relocation brackets. (Paul Workman?)

[Dynomite]

Someone here fabbed up some dip stick relocation brackets. (Paul Workman?)

Yep....here ya go and Jerry has the Dip Stick Tube Seal :thumbsup:

Dip stick tube seal (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=45872)
Dip stick bracket (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=78327)

[Karl]

Regarding the stage 8 bolts, I couldn't get the keepers on, actually, the shop that installed my headers couldn't get the keepers on. The clip was thicker than the groove it goes in. So in other words, I paid $75 for header bolts.

All that is needed is to trim the locking tabs for them to fit.

I will be using stage 8 bolts and copper header gaskets as I do not want to do this job twice!

[USAZR1]

Headers should be here in a few days;


Did you go with the OBX headers,Schrade?

[efnfast]

All that is needed is to trim the locking tabs for them to fit.

I will be using stage 8 bolts and copper header gaskets as I do not want to do this job twice!

I would have had to grind them thinner. Shouldn't have to do that.

[Schrade]

Did you go with the OBX headers,Schrade?
Yes I did there Clint - I thought for some reason that HAB055 OBX was discontinued, but they're showing up in a few places on the web (not on OBX' site search tho').

That was my preference, since that's what Jeff [Shrek] had on his wife's Z, matched up with the Power Effects pipes that I bought from him last week...

What is 'Stage 8' hardware? Same as Grade 8?

And what kind of anti-lock thread compound? Copper? Aluminum? Or Teflon / PTFE???

And will penetrating oil get in hot heads better than if it's cold to start with?

Are snappics worth posting here? Anyone interested?

[efnfast]

Stage 8 bolts have a splined head, a locking tab, and a clip that holds the locking tab in place. Gaurenteed not to loosen, if you can get the clip in.

[Karl]

I would have had to grind them thinner. Shouldn't have to do that.

I agree but on the other hand they are never going to be a perfect fit. I had to trim some of the locking tabs on my old l98 with long tube hooker headers.

No problems and well worth the piece of mind.

[Dynomite]

I agree but on the other hand they are never going to be a perfect fit. I had to trim some of the locking tabs on my old l98 with long tube hooker headers.

No problems and well worth the piece of mind.

Concur :thumbsup:

With the Stage 8 I hand tighten moderately with Anti-seize on the Stage 8 Header Bolts since they are locked once installed. You do NOT need a torque wrench on the Stage 8 bolts with locks when installing. I do use a bit of Anti-seize on the Stage 8 Header Bolts.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=146&pictureid=1064

If you like you can remove the engine and install the Headers and then reinstall the Engine With Headers Installed :D

Installing Engine In ZR1 (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-5.html#post1581825199)

[WARP TEN]

Installing Headers and Exhaust (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-5.html#post1581825195)

I would highly recommend using a 1/4 inch socket, 1/4 inch Universal and 1/4 inch extensions (wobbles) as much easier to work in tight spaces around Headers.

Also useful are ratcheting box wrenches. I think 10mm for those bolts but not certain. I brought a set over when Marc H and I were installing prototype headers on my '93 in the mid-nineties. He liked them so much I gave them to him as a present. --Bob

[Dynomite]

Also useful are ratcheting box wrenches. I think 10mm for those bolts but not certain. I brought a set over when Marc H and I were installing prototype headers on my '93 in the mid-nineties. He liked them so much I gave them to him as a present. --Bob

Yep :thumbsup:

And make sure those Ratcheting Box Wrenches are Flex Head :cheers:

I use the wobble extensions on almost everything. The wobble extensions are in first picture and flex ratchet combination wrenches in second picture.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/wobbleextension2.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/flexmetricratchet.jpg

Exhaust System Replace with Headers (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564059)

[efnfast]

It wasn't the pointy lock tab that wouldn't fit, it was the jesus clip that held the pointy lock tab.