Window closes outside weather strip

[Okiedoke]

For some reason, the end of the weather strip above the door curves down a bit so that, when the window is all the way up and I close the driver's side door, the window is outside the weather strip leaving a gap on the right side that causes wind noise. Here's a picture...

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d119/harryhhsu/Window_zps8c2d7a0b.jpg


I can get around it by lowering the window slightly (a few mm) before I get out of the car, but it's annoying and I always forget. When I drive the car, I have to then remember to have the window all the way up or I get wind noise from the top of the window since it's not snug against the weather strip. Is there any easy way to fix this or will I need to replace the weather strip?

[GOLDCYLON]

For some reason, the end of the weather strip above the door curves down a bit so that, when the window is all the way up and I close the driver's side door, the window is outside the weather strip leaving a gap on the right side that causes wind noise. Here's a picture...

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d119/harryhhsu/Window_zps8c2d7a0b.jpg


I can get around it by lowering the window slightly (a few mm) before I get out of the car, but it's annoying and I always forget. When I drive the car, I have to then remember to have the window all the way up or I get wind noise from the top of the window since it's not snug against the weather strip. Is there any easy way to fix this or will I need to replace the weather strip?


The short answer is you will prob need to replace the strip. However I would give this a shot first. Tape it up into position for a few weeks to see if will train itself back into the original shape

[WVZR-1]

That weather-strip appears to have come loose from the retainer that's attached to the top.

Taping this up or any other attempt to a fix on the car can only make it worse, remove the top and you can likely secure it into the retainer again - "likely"!

If this is a recent development I'd think you can recover without a purchase of a part, which would be the preferred. If it's been that way for quite some time it's less likely.

I thought I could point you towards a good install for the weather-strip but I can't seem to locate the one that I intentioned.

[GOLDCYLON]

These are Targa sides. They are retained with 3M Adhesive... Only. There are no retainers like the Door weatherstip has or the A-Pillar has Etc.

Tape it up for a week in the CA Sun and see if it retrains itself back into the OEM indended postion. The cost is nothing to try except time.

I think however, it may be time for new side targa seals. GC

[We Gone]

Does the window seal against the top of rear pillar seal as it goes up with out the top on? How does it fit at the front pillar seal? If there is a gap at the top, the window may need to be adjusted. Tilted in at the top.

[WVZR-1]

These are Targa sides. They are retained with 3M Adhesive... Only. There are no retainers like the Door weatherstip has or the A-Pillar has Etc.

Tape it up for a week in the CA Sun and see if it retrains itself back into the OEM indended postion. The cost is nothing to try except time.

I think however, it may be time for new side targa seals. GC

There are retainers both left and right of the top and on each end of each weather-strip there is also a "C/R" screw that secures the weather-strip. The "blow-out" tabs are part of those retainers.

The top needs to come off the car for an "attempt" to salvage what is there. An attempt to secure with top on the car I believe would be "time wasted". The last thing to consider would be the purchase of new weather-strips UNLESS absolutely necessary. I wouldn't consider these weather-strips "maintenance"!

Does the window seal against the top of rear pillar seal as it goes up with out the top on? How does it fit at the front pillar seal? If there is a gap at the top, the window may need to be adjusted. Tilted in at the top.

A glass misalignment or failure of the stabilizers to cause alignment problems could have made the situation worse but I would doubt that a glass alignment by itself would correct it.

The "blow-out" tabs are separate parts it seems but here's the retainer and you can use the "zoom" function of eBay to inspect it. There's 10 images in this link - check them all. The link should be for a LH side:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-NOS-Removable-Roof-Panel-Side-Weatherstrip-LH-Retainer-1984-1996-/200931880354?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec8792da2&vxp=mtr


I don't mean to "imply" that the OP needs a retainer and I certainly feel he should NOT!

OP - remove the top first and let it rest "upside down" in your "California" sun - all day wouldn't hurt. Then if the weather-strip is NOT torn or damaged use some weather-strip adhesive to re-glue it. Do NOT get carried away with the adhesive, more is NOT better. Secure the weather-strip in the retainer and let it rest in the sun while the adhesive sets. I wouldn't rush the install of the top. While the top is off confirm the glass is running up/down correctly and seems to be "wobble-free" when attempting to shake lightly by hand. Good luck!

[Okiedoke]

Sheesh...I never knew there was so much to know about a weather strip! Let me take the top off, use this as an excuse to go for my first drive around the block topless (gotta enjoy the journey!), put the white top on, and take a detailed look at the weather strip and digest all of the info from everyone. I hope the white top doesn't have any problems...guess I'll find out.

[WVZR-1]

Sheesh...I never knew there was so much to know about a weather strip! Let me take the top off, use this as an excuse to go for my first drive around the block topless (gotta enjoy the journey!), put the white top on, and take a detailed look at the weather strip and digest all of the info from everyone. I hope the white top doesn't have any problems...guess I'll find out.

Swap the tops with the car on a "level surface" - get some quality silicone "stick type" maybe but not necessary and use the time to do a little maintenance. There's no need to rush it - force "nothing"!

While the transparent top is off you can confirm it's authenticity. If its the original for a two/top option OR the original of a single/top option the last segment of the VIN will be etched into the front of the left side rail very near where the front C/R screw is.

C2L would be a two/top car from production, 24S blue & 64S bronze

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Leave the window down just a bit and close the door. Then put the window up all the way. Tada!

[Okiedoke]

Does the window seal against the top of rear pillar seal as it goes up with out the top on? How does it fit at the front pillar seal? If there is a gap at the top, the window may need to be adjusted. Tilted in at the top.

Doh! I forgot to check this when I had the top off. But I must say, the ride with the top off was awesome! The exhaust rumbles a bit at idle :D

I was hoping to get lucky with the white top, but it has the problem on both sides. It doesn't overlap nearly to the extent of the clear top, but catches the strip just enough to push it under the glass.

[Okiedoke]

Swap the tops with the car on a "level surface" - get some quality silicone "stick type" maybe but not necessary and use the time to do a little maintenance.


Ok. I'm really going to show my naivety now. By maintenance, do you mean clean the weather strips on the car and top and apply the silicone to the strips to keep them from drying out and cracking?


There's no need to rush it - force "nothing"!


The clear top came off pretty easily. I tried to be gentle with the white top, but it needed some effort to get on.


While the transparent top is off you can confirm it's authenticity. If its the original for a two/top option OR the original of a single/top option the last segment of the VIN will be etched into the front of the left side rail very near where the front C/R screw is.

C2L would be a two/top car from production, 24S blue & 64S bronze

The clear top has the last 8 digits of the VIN etched on. There seems to be a "1" before the 1st digit. I'm not sure what that is. Where would I see the C2L, 24S, or 64S?

[Okiedoke]

Leave the window down just a bit and close the door. Then put the window up all the way. Tada!

That was my workaround when I'm in the car. When I get out of the car, I had to remember to drop the window just the right amount so it'll close right and won't leave a gap at the top. If I'd forget, I'd have to hop in again.

[Okiedoke]

OP - remove the top first and let it rest "upside down" in your "California" sun - all day wouldn't hurt.


Can you clarify what the purpose of leaving it out in the sun is?


Then if the weather-strip is NOT torn or damaged use some weather-strip adhesive to re-glue it.

So I was gently nudging the weatherstrip back to see if the shape would good if I were to glue it. However, there's a small tear in the weather strip. I'm not sure if it was already there or if I had caused it. Is there anything I can use to seal that up? Here's a picture:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d119/harryhhsu/WeatherStrip_zpsd1432d0f.jpg


While the top is off confirm the glass is running up/down correctly and seems to be "wobble-free" when attempting to shake lightly by hand. Good luck!

I'm not sure what running up/down correctly means, but it feels pretty solig when I shake it.

[WVZR-1]

Ok. I'm really going to show my naivety now. By maintenance, do you mean clean the weather strips on the car and top and apply the silicone to the strips to keep them from drying out and cracking?



The clear top came off pretty easily. I tried to be gentle with the white top, but it needed some effort to get on.



The clear top has the last 8 digits of the VIN etched on. There seems to be a "1" before the 1st digit. I'm not sure what that is. Where would I see the C2L, 24S, or 64S?

Yes - just a soap and warm water wash and the silicone keeps the top from sticking to the weather-strip with the silicone applied. Clean the top frame also.

It is not unusual for a top that has been stored "off the car" and not used with any regularity to be a bit "stubborn". There is very limited adjustment. As you can see there's a contact area front and rear of the side weather-strips that is of different compressed size. Likely relaxed from no compression from being installed. It's been "resting". If perhaps it was a single top "transparent" build maybe the solid top hasn't been on the car previously. The SPID label would display a CC3 rather than the C2L I mentioned.

The C2L if the car was built with the 2 top option would appear on the SPID label on the console door. If the top is blue it would display 24S, if it were bronze 64S.

The significance of the 1 in front of the last 8 of the VIN I'm not familiar with, it is NOT a match to the "check-digit" which is the 9th of the VIN except in some very unusual circumstances where the "check-sum" algorithm would assign a 1 to the 9th position. Were there maybe more than one assembly/build plants for the tops? Is it maybe a shift or line identifier for quality control? I've never researched and it's the first time I've been asked! Thanks! It might be an interesting question for the membership to check the 1st character of their transparent top. Does it signify the tint? Mine is a 1 and it's bronze.

You can use this calculator and using any "erroneous" not matching digit or letter in the 9th position this calculator will correct it and display the rationale and algorithm, it's this algorithm that "validates" any 17 digit VIN of any manufacturer. It will only correct the "check-digit" - none of the others. Use any vehicle that you have to confirm:

http://www.alton-moore.net/vin_calculation.html

[WVZR-1]

Can you clarify what the purpose of leaving it out in the sun is?



So I was gently nudging the weatherstrip back to see if the shape would good if I were to glue it. However, there's a small tear in the weather strip. I'm not sure if it was already there or if I had caused it. Is there anything I can use to seal that up? Here's a picture:



I'm not sure what running up/down correctly means, but it feels pretty solig when I shake it.

The hot sun would have a tendency to relax the "bind" the weather-strip appeared to be in from your snapshot on your original post. I would think it did help. Were the screws in each end present and properly secured still? I don't recall but there may have been a metal reinforcement molded into the weather-strip at the attaching points.

The split in the weather-strip - I'm going to leave that alone. I have never attempted to "fill" the void but I've known people that have. The results, I'm not sure of their level of satisfaction. A short minor split "filled" might be the preferred vs. an after-market replacement. I seriously doubt that you created the issue in your attempt to secure it.

If the glass felt "solid" then I doubt that a failure in the glass alignment caused your issue. How many miles on the car? Worn door hinge pins and bushings could cause an issue but it would be a "high-miler" that would display that issue generally unless the door is used a an aid in exiting the car.

I can't tell but it appears you may have removed the weather-strip from the retainer. Did you? How much adhesive was present? I would think "minimal". You want to use a similar amount when reinstalling it, maybe a bit more on the rear section that was distorted. Use the black weather-strip adhesive here vs. the yellow that is generally suggested. 3M 8008 I would think the preferred over the 8011 product.

A product to fill the seam? I don't know but I'll ask someone who I believe did this OR maybe someone here has done similar and will respond.

[edram454]

maybe you can use a clear and flexible silicone in between the two pieces of weatherstrip. allow it to dry and try to use as little as possible. maybe you can salvage that weatherstrip. Good luck. ed ramos #3028

[Okiedoke]

get some quality silicone "stick type"

Searching online, I found a couple that seemed good quality. I wonder if folks have experience with these and know if both will work. Or can I get any dielectric grease I find in a local auto parts store?

1) GM Dielectric Silicone Grease (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BK7LYZ2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (Part #12345579) - I've seen this recommended on some forums, but with a different part number. Really expensive though.

2) AGS Sil-Glyde (http://www.amazon.com/SILGLYDE-LUBE-COMPOUND---8-OZ/dp/B000KXLR5E/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1390238116&sr=1-3&keywords=ags+sg8) (Part #SG8) - This seems to be the same stuff as the NAPA version and seems to be highly recommended.

Thanks!

[We Gone]

Been using dielectric grease on seals of all my cars at least once a year for about 30 years and my seals still look new. I put it on with a cotton cloth let it set for a day than go back and remove the excess, than a few days later as you will get a bit of black residue off.

[WVZR-1]

Been using dielectric grease on seals of all my cars at least once a year for about 30 years and my seals still look new. I put it on with a cotton cloth let it set for a day than go back and remove the excess, than a few days later as you will get a bit of black residue off.

That should work. Make sure you don't whip out the silicone/dielectric in the vicinity of a paint shop. You'll likely end up with a "genuine first class tongue lashing" OR maybe worse! I like the stick and I believe I still have some. Haven't looked for a long while. It certainly has become more difficult to purchase. Most any quality product that has a higher silicone content is certainly more expensive. You probably need to check the MSDS sheets for the product to confirm the content.

OP - you would want the part # you posted if you were shopping the GM product. It is "quality" - worth the price? I believe. You should be able to buy for maybe $10 or less. I believe that Wurth still does a stick but don't know. I know that Wurth does a "silicone free" stick and that's quite easily found. Might be a good buy. I found some spray one time that was really inexpensive, I did my leather winter boots with it and used it on my snow shovels. Silicone on a plastic snow shovel is quite an experience! I've got I think one can left.

[We Gone]

luckily I picked up an 8oz tube of silicone dielectric grease left over from an install 10 years ago, only used about an oz over the years a little goes a long ways. We use it on the high tension cables of the x-ray tubes and transformers.

[Z51JEFF]

Im in Fremont,stop by and Ill take a look.

[Okiedoke]

Does the window seal against the top of rear pillar seal as it goes up with out the top on? How does it fit at the front pillar seal? If there is a gap at the top, the window may need to be adjusted. Tilted in at the top.

I got the top off today. As the window goes up, it's far against the rear pillar seal. However, it's flush against the rear pillar seal when it gets to the top.

I also used the weather strip adhesive and was able to get the weather strip a bit higher at the end. However, it wasn't even close to having enough clearance. I then compared this window to the passenger's side window and noticed what I think may be the problem. On the passenger side, when the window is up, the glass is evenly spaced across the top under the weather strip. Feeling under the weather strip, there's still some space between the top of the glass and the top of the inside of the weather strip. Between the glass and the pillar, the space is even from top to bottom.

Now, on the driver side, there's space between the top of the glass and the top of the weather strip at the front of the window. At the rear (right side) of the window, it's pushing tightly against the inside top of the weather strip. At the rear pillar, there's more space at the top between the glass and the pillar than at the bottom. It's almost like the window is rotated too far counter clockwise. Is there a way to rotate the window slightly clockwise? Here's a picture:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d119/harryhhsu/DriverWindow_zpsc1a1256a.jpg

[Okiedoke]

The split in the weather-strip - I'm going to leave that alone. I have never attempted to "fill" the void but I've known people that have. The results, I'm not sure of their level of satisfaction. A short minor split "filled" might be the preferred vs. an after-market replacement. I seriously doubt that you created the issue in your attempt to secure it.

3M 8008 I would think the preferred over the 8011 product.

A product to fill the seam? I don't know but I'll ask someone who I believe did this OR maybe someone here has done similar and will respond.

I ended up just using the 3M 8008 adhesive to seal the tear. This stuff is tricky to work with and you can easily make quite a mess with it. It actually worked pretty well for the tear.

[Z51JEFF]

I got the top off today. As the window goes up, it's far against the rear pillar seal. However, it's flush against the rear pillar seal when it gets to the top.

I also used the weather strip adhesive and was able to get the weather strip a bit higher at the end. However, it wasn't even close to having enough clearance. I then compared this window to the passenger's side window and noticed what I think may be the problem. On the passenger side, when the window is up, the glass is evenly spaced across the top under the weather strip. Feeling under the weather strip, there's still some space between the top of the glass and the top of the inside of the weather strip. Between the glass and the pillar, the space is even from top to bottom.

Now, on the driver side, there's space between the top of the glass and the top of the weather strip at the front of the window. At the rear (right side) of the window, it's pushing tightly against the inside top of the weather strip. At the rear pillar, there's more space at the top between the glass and the pillar than at the bottom. It's almost like the window is rotated too far counter clockwise. Is there a way to rotate the window slightly clockwise? Here's a picture:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d119/harryhhsu/DriverWindow_zpsc1a1256a.jpg

There are several adjustments inside the door,sounds like one might be loose.Was the door ever apart,was something recently replaced?Ive been inside these doors and the adjustments will fix the problem.One adjustment is a stop and 2,front-back are stops and guides.As the window comes up its caught in a hook type guide that curves the top of the window in at the top.Whats the story with the car,how long have you had it,recently replaced the WS?

[We Gone]

What Jeff said, I will add look in your FSM 10-6-1 thru 10-6-13 before you start, also take a sharpie and outline the bolt heads so you can always move them back in case you adjust the wrong one. Take your time.

[Okiedoke]

There are several adjustments inside the door,sounds like one might be loose.Was the door ever apart,was something recently replaced?Ive been inside these doors and the adjustments will fix the problem.One adjustment is a stop and 2,front-back are stops and guides.As the window comes up its caught in a hook type guide that curves the top of the window in at the top.Whats the story with the car,how long have you had it,recently replaced the WS?

I bought the car a couple of months ago. It had 18k miles and had been in storage for a while before the dealer bought it about 2 years ago. The dealer replaced the injectors, injector seals, plenum gasket, fuel feed and return pipe seals, oil change with Mobile 1 extended perf & Bosch 3401 filter, repaired driver's side seat rack, replaced relay to fix the ABS light, and repaired/rebuilt the receiver and 4 amps. They really like and cared for the car. I think they brought it to a show in Monterey last year and also gave me the dyno from after they replaced the injectors. The dealer worked on the and drove the car for 2k miles, so it was 20k when I got it. I have all the paperwork and receipts except for the relay. Unfortunately, I don't know the history of the car other than the owner having passed away and his wife sold his collection. The owner seemed to have been a member of this registry in the late 90's since there are stickers on the rear windshield from 1996-1999.

So now, I'm trying to fix the things that I'm noticing and hearing. Since I've never driven a pristine Z before, I don't know how it's supposed to feel and sound. So I'm posting them here and working on them one by one. I'm really appreciative of all the knowledge on this forum and everyone's willingness to help.

I have not replaced the weather strip. I think they're all original. I don't know if the door panel's been opened before. However, now that you mention it, I do hear a vibration in the driver side door whereas the passenger side is quiet.

[Okiedoke]

What Jeff said, I will add look in your FSM 10-6-1 thru 10-6-13 before you start, also take a sharpie and outline the bolt heads so you can always move them back in case you adjust the wrong one. Take your time.

Thanks for the tip. I finally get to use the service manual ;)

[Z51JEFF]

Another thing to keep in mind if the WS was replaced with some of the aftermarket stuff it will cause problems with the window.