Question on ultra low mile ZR1s

[stuntmanmike]

Hey Guys,
New to to the forum, and looking to purchase my first ZR1/Vette.

What are your thoughts on buying a ZR1 with less than 1000 miles? Safe to assume there may have been years where the car didnt run - do you see issues with seals, gaskets, bushings, etc. drying out, cracking?

Any sense of what kind of work would need to be done to get one of these roadworthy?

Thanks,
Mike

[Kevin]

money...lots of money. for the premium a no mile car will bring you're better off getting a higher mile car and driving that and saving the rest for repairs

[Dynomite]

Hey Guys,
New to to the forum, and looking to purchase my first ZR1/Vette.

What are your thoughts on buying a ZR1 with less than 1000 miles? Safe to assume there may have been years where the car didnt run - do you see issues with seals, gaskets, bushings, etc. drying out, cracking?

Any sense of what kind of work would need to be done to get one of these roadworthy?

Thanks,
Mike

Welcome :cheers:

Less than 1,000 miles will be way Over Priced as a collector ZR-1 if you are looking for reliability/driving fun. Exactly as you say....maybe some of the normal issues which are age related having nothing to do with driving. The best mileage I have found is between 50K and say 75K miles. You should have someone knowledgeable check anything you are considering buying first just as a precaution.

But on the other hand........You apparently plan on driving (roadworthy) a ZR1 with less than 1,000 miles on it which is fine and the kicks you get out of driving an essentially show room ZR1 might be worth it to you.

Again.....change the fluids and if no check engine lights and no misses at any speed........and if the vacuum pump shuts off within a few seconds with key on......go for it :thumbsup:

I think what everyone will suggest is that the value of the ZR1 drops quickly as you add miles beyond a very low mileage ZR1 to say 30,000 miles more or less. But the value of the fun driving a showroom ZR1 may be worth it as that is no different than say buying a showroom any model in essentially new condition.

The most important test I do up front is a compression test after that just pull the plenum and eliminate TB coolant and recondition everything under the plenum (secondaries, injectors, starter, coils) and you will have a very reliable driver no matter the original miles.

Seals unlikely, gaskets unlikely, bushings and tires hardened but not worn......If there is a check engine light or a miss at any speed or if the vacuum pump does not shut off within a few seconds with key on.........Probably pull plenum and recondition/replace injectors, change Engine oil, Transmission oil, and Differential oil as well as make sure you have green antifreeze 1825M GM Spec. LT5/ZR-1 Fluids (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070550)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/AMSOIL10W-40oil_zps1b85b817.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/TWSCastrol-1.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/90%20ZR1/75W-90M1.jpghttp://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/213967.jpg

[A1990]

A ZR-1 with <1000 miles is a museum/collector piece. If you want to buy a ZR-1 to drive, and you have a budget to buy a collector car, buy a low mile (10,000-30,000 mile) 95 ZR-1.

If you are thinking that you should buy this ultra low mile car, put it in your collection and don't worry about driving it.

[scottfab]

A ZR-1 with <1000 miles is a museum/collector piece. If you want to buy a ZR-1 to drive, and you have a budget to buy a collector car, but a low mile (10,000-30,000 mile) 95 ZR-1.

If you are thinking that you should buy this ultra low mile car, put it in your collection and don't worry about driving it.

Mike,
Dennis just nailed it. If this is a buy for the low miles to keep in a collection then doing a few things (fluids, plugs etc) would be it. As it sits with that kind of mileage that would be the best thing. Low mileage cars get more rare all the time. A low mileage car is very unlikely to have engine damage.

If you intend to drive the car and want it to remain worth max $ (should you want to sell it later) then I would not do mods that are hard to undo. It's rare that a heavily modified and customed ZR-1 will retain it's value well. (that must be clarified to be obviously my opinion)

If max speed and performance is the goal and resale value is of no or less concern then get out your check book and have fun. The $ is the lesser concern.

In any case weigh carefully any advice you get to modify the car until you fully get the pros and cons.

Most ZR-1s out there, being as old as they are now, have been maintained
and those that have been ripped up will be fairly easy to spot.
Good luck with which ever car you pick.

[Racinfan83]

A ZR-1 with <1000 miles is a museum/collector piece. If you want to buy a ZR-1 to drive, and you have a budget to buy a collector car, but a low mile (10,000-30,000 mile) 95 ZR-1.

If you are thinking that you should buy this ultra low mile car, put it in your collection and don't worry about driving it.

I am less then a year into this (got my Z last April) - but from all I have read and learned - ^^^ exactly!
Just for reference - I got mine with 17k miles on it and I have dropped about $4k on it already. Had Marc Haibeck do injectors, coils, coolant flush and remove radiator and clean it, + his chip. I have also gotten the A/C switched over to R134, had an issue with a brakelight switch, and have replaced any interior pieces that were cracked. I have a set of '95 Sport seats and stuff to put them in sitting in garage right now ( if you are a bigger guy the 90-93 Sport seats might not be too comfy - I'm 6'1" 225) And I still have to drop another $1k on a set of tires (long story)
SO - if you want a DRIVER - get one that has had all the stuff done to it already and DRIVE it. If you want a collector - pay the $ and let er sit... JMO:cheers:

[lisounds]

i purchase a low mile 1995 red z back in september
the car had a little over 2,400 miles
the owner stated that over the years he did drive it around the neiborhood and open it up a little for maintenance
before buying it i took it for a test ride check all options and the only thing i found wrong was a leaky clutch slave cylinder
which i had rebuilt by power torque (excellant service )
since then i have driven the car on 3 short drives totaling 100 miles
and so far so good
i do know that it is a 19 years old that is near brand new and there will be a few small issues from time to time ( now that i jinxed myself)
but for me i enjoy the fact that the condition of the car is perfect ( paint , interior, weatherstrip etc.) and i know the history of it.

buy what you like ... be happy with your purchase... and do with it what you want

life is short
:iroc:

[Schrade]

I had a chance to buy a 14k car for only a few $C more than the 32k car that I ended up getting. Only if the 14k car been a few $C CHEAPER, would I have considered it, all else being equal...........

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Mike,
Dennis just nailed it. If this is a buy for the low miles to keep in a collection then doing a few things (fluids, plugs etc) would be it. As it sits with that kind of mileage that would be the best thing. Low mileage cars get more rare all the time. A low mileage car is very unlikely to have engine damage.

If you intend to drive the car and want it to remain worth max $ (should you want to sell it later) then I would not do mods that are hard to undo. It's rare that a heavily modified and customed ZR-2 (ZR-2 meaning not a ZR-1 anymore) will retain it's value well.

If max speed and performance is the goal and resale value is of no or less concern then get out your check book and have fun.

In any case weigh carefully any advice you get to modify the car until you fully get the pros and cons.

Most ZR-1s out there, being as old as they are now, have been maintained
and those that have been ripped up will be fairly easy to spot.
Good luck with which ever car you pick.

I agree. Read all kinds of posts and threads here and soak up the good, bad and ugly in regards to stock and modded cars. There is a way to mod a ZR-1 with excellent results. You'll learn these methods here. Some people will even pay a premium for a properly modded car.

Many of us here modify our ZR-1's and enjoy them just as many here enjoy their completely stock ZR-1's.
And if your preference is a 100% stock ZR-1, you're in the right place to keep it maintained that way.

This is a great place to be if you love the ZR-1!

Long live the ZR-1. :saluting:

Brett Henderson

[Dynomite]

I agree. Read all kinds of posts and threads here and soak up the good, bad and ugly in regards to stock and modded cars. There is a way to mod a ZR-1 with excellent results. You'll learn this methods here. Some people will even pay a premium for a properly modded car.

Many of us here modify our ZR-1's and enjoy them just as many here enjoy their completely stock ZR-1's.
And if your preference is a 100% stock ZR-1, you're in the right place to keep it maintained that way.

This is a great place to be if you love the ZR-1!

Long live the ZR-1.

Brett Henderson


Concur Completely and I have no clue and have not seen a ripped up ZR-1 or ripped up LT5 :p

There were NO modifications that cannot be reversed. There was nothing against (Cons) any of the Modifications. All Modifications improved performance, reliability, and value of the LT5s, L98 and ZR-1s.

My ZR-1s and Corvette (L98) all run perfectly and are modified/improved each differently (a 90', 91', and a 90') ;)

See.........
LT5 Eliminated Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html)
Marc Haibeck on LT5 Eliminated Secondaries (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html#post1579114178)
LT5 Added Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html#post1579114180)

90' LT5
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite3/e432a450-3b35-4a8e-9c8c-75b433b4ac6f.jpg

91' LT5
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/D%20Engine%20LT5/f6da30fd-c4c0-4c81-9e31-f7510aaf14f2.jpg

90' L98
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/A%20Engine%20L98/df591f5e-28e0-4cc8-b0b8-13631b879eb6.jpg

[edram454]

I agree also. When I was zr1 shopping, I only wanted modified zr1's. I wanted a zr1 that can run!!! I respect all zr1's and for some people stock is fine. I appreciate stock z's. For myself, I knew only a modified car would do. Usually with modified cars, the price you pay is the same for a stock car and the mods that have been done are free. The car I bought was advertised in the beginning at 25k. It was not super heavily modded but it has quite a few mods. I wound up paying way less than a car in similar condition without mods. I got a sorted car with ALL the troublesome things replaced, track prepped and hasnt thrown 1 code ever. 45k miles in 24 years. not bad. My only regret is not buying a more heavily modded car!! Get what you like and enjoy it.

[XfireZ51]

JMO, but I believe it's modded ZR-1s that have carried the flag for our cars. Some of the attention being drawn to the LT-5 is due to the upgrades demonstrating the flexibility and capability of the engine's architecture.

[Schrade]

Wow - I hope I didn't offend anyone when I called my own mill an LT2, with a modified restrictor gasket in place...

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=189693&postcount=486

[Bearly Flying]

Ya, Schrade I was deeply offended....:hello:

Have you got that thing running finally?

[tomcat]

I agree also. When I was zr1 shopping, I only wanted modified zr1's. I wanted a zr1 that can run!!! I respect all zr1's and for some people stock is fine. I appreciate stock z's. For myself, I knew only a modified car would do. Usually with modified cars, the price you pay is the same for a stock car and the mods that have been done are free. The car I bought was advertised in the beginning at 25k. It was not super heavily modded but it has quite a few mods. I wound up paying way less than a car in similar condition without mods. I got a sorted car with ALL the troublesome things replaced, track prepped and hasnt thrown 1 code ever. 45k miles in 24 years. not bad. My only regret is not buying a more heavily modded car!! Get what you like and enjoy it.

I agree with your statement about Modded ZR1's.

Manfred E..........
91 #906

[Dynomite]

Wow - I hope I didn't offend anyone when I called my own mill an LT2, with a modified restrictor gasket in place...

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=189693&postcount=486

You can call your LT5 what you want. You can also refer to your own mechanic work or emotional state however you want by choosing professional terms or resorting to terms such as (Kludged or Ripped) :D

A kludge (or kluge) is a workaround, quick-and-dirty solution, clumsy, inelegant, difficult to extend, hard to maintain yet effective and quick solution to a problem. Kind of like suggesting poor mechanic work.

Rip is to remove (something) quickly or violently. Kind of like suggesting an emotional mechanic.

Ripped is Intoxicated by alcohol or a drug.

Your work might be more Kludged and you might Rip if you are Ripped when working on your LT5 then suggesting it is really an LT2 :p

Hey Guys,
New to to the forum, and looking to purchase my first ZR1/Vette.What are your thoughts on buying a ZR1 with less than 1000 miles? Safe to assume there may have been years where the car didnt run - do you see issues with seals, gaskets, bushings, etc. drying out, cracking?
Any sense of what kind of work would need to be done to get one of these roadworthy?

Thanks,
Mike

Seals unlikely, gaskets unlikely, bushings and tires hardened but not worn......If there is a check engine light or a miss at any speed or if the vacuum pump does not shut off within a few seconds with key on.........Probably pull plenum and recondition/replace injectors, change Engine oil, Transmission oil, and Differential oil as well as make sure you have green antifreeze 1825M GM Spec. LT5/ZR-1 Fluids (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070550)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/AMSOIL10W-40oil_zps1b85b817.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/TWSCastrol-1.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/90%20ZR1/75W-90M1.jpghttp://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/213967.jpg

[A26B]

Scott, while I respect other's opinions, I am asking that you respect others as well and remove the reference highlighted in RED. I also ask that you refrain from slamming modified ZR-1's here in the future.

Many of us here modify our ZR-1's and enjoy them just as many here enjoy their completely stock ZR-1's. The ZR-2 reference is offensive to myself and I believe it will be to others as well.

This is a ZR-1 community and NOT a ZR-1 and ZR-2 community.

Please don't be offended by my public request as this is only in the spirit of unity among all kinds of ZR-1 owners and drivers here.

Long live the ZR-1. :saluting:

Brett Henderson

Thank you, I agree wholeheartedly. =D&gt;
Mine is about as modified as it can get! I had a 93 40thRubyZee with 168 miles on the odometer for several years & it was nice to sit in and smell the new, but was completely useless to me.
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/234SpringMtnRaceway2.jpg


http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/234NellisAFB.jpg

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Jerry, your modified car is a work or art! Beautiful Z!!

:cheers:

[efnfast]

I agree Brett, I don't see many body kits I like, including Callaway's. Jerry, your car looks great.

[Schrade]

Wow - I hope I didn't offend anyone when I called my own mill an LT2, with a modified restrictor gasket in place...

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=189693&postcount=486

OP - sorry about posting off the original topic here; usually we don't do that - USUALLY...

[DaveK]

Some people like to mod their cars, some don't. It's an individual's choice and an individual taste and I imagine everyone has their own idea of what would be classed as "major modification". One of the things that makes life so richly interesting is that people see things differently. I see no reason why someone should be asked to censor their opinion just because someone else disagrees with it.

Dave

[Dynomite]

Hey Guys,
New to to the forum, and looking to purchase my first ZR1/Vette.

What are your thoughts on buying a ZR1 with less than 1000 miles?
Any sense of what kind of work would need to be done to get one of these roadworthy?

Thanks,
Mike

You apparently plan on driving (roadworthy) a ZR1 with less than 1,000 miles on it which is fine and the kicks you get out of driving an essentially show room ZR1 might be worth it to you :dancing

Again.....change the fluids and if no check engine lights and no misses at any speed .....and if the vacuum pump shuts off within a few seconds with key on......go for it :thumbsup:

I think what everyone is saying is that the value of the ZR1 drops quickly as you add miles beyond a very low mileage ZR1 to say 30,000 miles more or less. But the value of the fun driving a showroom ZR1 may be worth it as that is no different than say buying a showroom any model in essentially new condition.

I imagine everyone has their own idea of what would be classed as "major modification".
Dave

I would call the start of major modifications a camshaft change but not porting as there are many degrees of porting. Beyond that.........new pistons, stroking, and other bottom end modifications I would call major modifications or anything that changes displacement.

[edram454]

Thank you, I agree wholeheartedly. =D&gt;
Mine is about as modified as it can get! I had a 93 40thRubyZee with 168 miles on the odometer for several years & it was nice to sit in and smell the new, but was completely useless to me.
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/234SpringMtnRaceway2.jpg


http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/234NellisAFB.jpg

this is a lingenfelter wide body zr1. can spot them a mile away. In my opinion, hte nicest and mean looking zr1 kit around. Love your zr1. about 3 years ago I saw a lingenfelter wide body red car with a 415 stroker with 650 hp hit the block for 34k!! only 34k. I was foaming at the mouth. I took my wife left our house and made it to the mecum auction 4 hours away so I can see this car and take pics. it was under the sold tent and I just feasted on this thing. absolutely gorgeous. It had racing seats and belts and the complete wide body kit with extra wide tires etc... just took my breath away. Your car looks great. Nothing like a car like that.:dancing

[Vetman]

I bought my 60,000 mile car with only mod of 410, 's in rear which were shot. Could shake the drive shaft in the housing. Everything else quiet and perfect. 410's apparently had no shims so was not set up properly, wore terribly. Paid 14,000 for car 1.5 years ago. Replaced with 345's and guess I was lucky cause car runs perfect in every way. AC works with r 34 and 7000 without a miss. Love driving it with care with occasional squirt to the secondaries.

[edram454]

You got a great deal on a great car. these cars have a lot of life in them so 60k miles is nothing. 14k for your car is great. I paid 17k for mine with many mods 45k miles and runs perfect. Just sold my 500+ hp c5 today. the buyer took it for a test drive with me in it and burned the tires in the first 3 gears till i told him enough. he paid cash and left. car had 39k miles. I hate to sell good cars but I cant have them all. I 'll just keep my Z. Congrats on your Z.

[edram454]

engine looks great Lee. Lots of bling on it. Another steal at 14k. Seeing that its yours I know it must run good!

[A1990]

The OP asked what he would have to do to get a ZR-1 with <1000 miles on the road...

It seems we all missed the point...sorry to Stuntmanmike...maybe you want to start a new thread.

[edram454]

Let's chill out. This forum is informative and it's supposed to be fun. This should not be so strict or serious where we cannot share a full spectrum of ideas and information. I agree the OP's question was answered. He should have much more knowledge now than before he posted his question. Thanks to everyone that shared there answers.

[Dynomite]

Hey Guys,
New to to the forum, and looking to purchase my first ZR1/Vette.

What are your thoughts on buying a ZR1 with less than 1000 miles?
Any sense of what kind of work would need to be done to get one of these roadworthy?

Thanks,
Mike

You apparently plan on driving (roadworthy) a ZR1 with less than 1,000 miles on it which is fine and the kicks you get out of driving an essentially show room ZR1 might be worth it to you :dancing

Again.....change the fluids and if no check engine lights and no misses at any speed.....and if the vacuum pump shuts off within a few seconds with key on......go for it....the cost will be cost of fluids which should be less than $150 :thumbsup:

I think what everyone is saying is that the value of the ZR1 drops quickly as you add miles beyond a very low mileage ZR1 to say 30,000 miles more or less. But the value of the fun driving a showroom ZR1 may be worth it as that is no different than say buying a showroom any model in essentially new condition.

Let's chill out.

OK :D
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/A%20Babes/Hayti.png (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/A%20Babes/Hayti.png.html)

[Dynomite]

Some people like to mod their cars, some don't. It's an individual's choice and an individual taste and I imagine everyone has their own idea of what would be classed as "major modification". One of the things that makes life so richly interesting is that people see things differently.
Dave

Just another opinion in that regard......just to show stuntmanmike what minor modifications look like and cost. This will give stuntmanmike an idea of what one can do with little additional cost on a low mileage ZR-1 if you really want to have some fun. :D

I purchased for $14K a 90' with 75K miles. Refurbished TOP END eliminating TB Coolant, Eliminated Air Induction, and Adding SW Headers (the bulk of the expense). Except for Headers probably spent $500 total on Top End Refurbishing (so much for bringing out my checkbook talk) ;)

Removed Cam Covers with engine in car and checked Camshaft Timing (was right on the money). I have to add.....I can now look into the Timing slot in the front camshaft retainer of each camshaft and tell you within a degree what the timing is without using any "tool" inserted into that slot. But to get timing exact you really have to use a deflection meter on the lifter to determine exactly the position of the valve at TDC.

I spent maybe another $500 on Bling

And must not forget the $15 spent on High Temp Silver Rustoleum.

And then I splurged with $800 Wilwood C5 Z06 Brake Upgrade :thumbsup:

I used PayPal for Jerry's gaskets (and some very nice SS Allen Head Bolts) and some new secondary components that actually were functional as they were :D

My point is simple......if you have wrenches and know how to use them, Modifying/Refurbishing an LT5 is a LOT OF FUN and a Piece of Cake especially with the guys on this Forum to answer ANY and ALL questions you may have. Oh Ya....almost forgot......did a compression check (215, 212, 215, 213, 216, 211, 215, 212) and changed ALL fluids. LT5/ZR-1 Fluids (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070550)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite3/e432a450-3b35-4a8e-9c8c-75b433b4ac6f.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite3/fe433474-92ce-4c78-a187-556259265a75.jpg

[scottfab]

Some people like to mod their cars, some don't. It's an individual's choice and an individual taste and I imagine everyone has their own idea of what would be classed as "major modification". One of the things that makes life so richly interesting is that people see things differently. I see no reason why someone should be asked to censor their opinion just because someone else disagrees with it.

Dave

Dave,
Here (above) is your unaltered text. To edit it without showing something was left out could be misleading.

I agree with your your post however, in this instance I will comply. Based on some PMs I've decided the greater good comes from compromise. In this instance I have to consider how the "ZR-2" reference was taken. It was taken as demeaning. I meant it to be demonstrative. To respect the sensabilities of others I will change the words. I've done this a few times in the past as a result of private requests. The goal is to express a difference of opinion without upsetting harmony. With some folks it's just worth the compromise. With some others ..... eh.... maybe not :p