Oil Pressure Switch [Archive] - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

mgbrv8

11-30-2013, 11:08 PM

I heard some horror stories about removing the Oil pressure switch on our motors. Some people would lift the motors up with a hoist others would remove the motor mounts and jack up one side of the motor even read one story or a person removed the exhaust header on that side. Mine was leaking so I decided to take a stab at it. I started from the passenger-side trying to get to it but after a while my hands started cramping from trying to fit in the tight spot at a odd angle. So I step back and took a long look at the situation. I Figured out if you lay a series of blankets over the motor from the drivers wheel over the engine to protect everything and if you lay on top of the engine from the driver side you can reach your left hand in very easily. I also disconnected the oil cooler lines to ease access and plug them with plugs I had in my toolbox, this gives you a few more inches of freedom with the ratchet but it isn't absolutely necessary. Its also nice because with your left hand is in there working you could look right down at the switch through the exposed section. I also dissected the bad switch to see what failed.

Dave:saluting:

mgbrv8

11-30-2013, 11:11 PM

Here are some more pics.

Dave

Z06scentair

11-30-2013, 11:15 PM

Great Info!

mgbrv8

11-30-2013, 11:20 PM

Thank you Z06scentair I just want to help our and future members and owners

Dave

mgbrv8

12-02-2013, 02:17 PM

I forgot one helpful hint. To keep from straining my wrist while turning the ratchet and trying to hold up the ratchet and socket combination with my fingertips I made a 10 inch length of stainless steel wire with eyelets on each end. I put one eyelet in between the socket and the ratchet head and protruded the other end up through the view port of the oil pressure switch this allowed me to not only hold up the socket against its weight but also to help place the socket on the switch initially. Another point the finer the ratchet the better because you don't have much swing in there. The job in total was about 35min.

Dave:saluting:

Schrade

12-02-2013, 03:57 PM

Seems they could have integrated the OP light into the OP guage...

Get Cliff to link it in 'Solutions'...

A26B

12-02-2013, 04:14 PM

Seems they could have integrated the OP light into the OP guage...

Get Cliff to link it in 'Solutions'...

Could have.... but better to have redundant sensors on critical functions. It's helped more than on ZR-1 driver when one has failed, usually the gauge sensor. Personally, I prefer a mechanical oil pressure gauge added to the pressure switch.
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/GaugePod.jpg

Dynomite

12-02-2013, 04:15 PM

Get Cliff to link it in 'Solutions'...

OK :D

Some more information for ya ;)

GENERAL CHECKS
Post 18 - Engine Oil Pressure/Temperature Sensors (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580467622)
Post 19 - LT5 Lubrication Tricks (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580467641)
Post 20 - Potential Oil Leaks and the OPRV Cover Plate (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1581302471)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/B%20Engine%20LT5/SOilFilterHousingLabel_zps4cacf14a.jpg

bamawrx

12-02-2013, 04:18 PM

This is my kind of thread.

AustinJohn

08-15-2014, 02:45 PM

Like many folks my car developed a sudden oil leak which I at first thought was the oil temperature sender and Pete made two good repair procedure suggestions - remove the passenger wheel and the center section of the wheel well liner. But once I removed the wheel and the wheel liner section and started to clean up the sprayed oil it was clear the cause was the oil pressure switch rather than the sender and searching the forum I found folks divided on whether the better approach to replace the switch was to remove the oil filter adapter or to raise the passenger side of the engine. Then I read Dave's procedure.

I have to admit I've done some unusual things in caring for my cars (and trucks and motorcycles) over the years but lying on them is a new one. Still it did make sense to help get one's left hand in a more natural and useful position, although removing the wheel goes a long way toward that same goal (of course all this assumes small hands as without removing hoses the space is limited). And I was already using a variant of Dave's stainless steel wire suggestion. But what really helped was seeing the picture of Dave's tools and particularly his flex head 3/8" socket driver. As the saying goes "use the right tool for the job" and indeed the flex head made all the difference in the world.

Unlike Dave I didn't yet have my replacement switch so I couldn't quickly button it up and total my time spent. Plus having removed the wheel and center section of the wheel well liner and done a lot of cleaning my time on the clock was much longer than his. But the important thing is result. And I now know that even if my new switch fails sometime down the road replacing it by removing the passenger wheel and the center section of the wheel well liner, using a helper wire to support the heavy socket with a flex head 3/8" socket driver is a doable task. So thank you, Dave.

John

mgbrv8

08-15-2014, 04:30 PM

Thank you so much John. I'm so glad it was helpful.

Dave:cheers:

LT5Vette

04-18-2015, 01:15 PM

AustinJohn

04-18-2015, 04:55 PM

My pressure switch is leaking so search lead me here. Is there any sealant or Teflon tape used on this switch? Looks like switch may have something applied to threads on replacement part. Also wondering since my hands are larger than space allowed in most engine bays and this looks particularly tight, what size plugs are required for the oil lines?
Thanks much very helpful information, got my moving blanket ready, just waiting on the part. Thanks,
Tod

Tod, I'd refer you to my post #10 above for additional suggestions BUT will add that the limited space makes this is a hard job even with small hands so you may want to try to enlist a friend with small hands to help. The flex socket in Dave's pictures is indispensable and keeps one from having to disconnect the oil lines. I did not use Teflon tape but if you do use the "yellow" gas/oil resistant tape. John

Oldyeller91

07-08-2015, 12:41 PM

So prob dumb question, new to pressure switches, but is in a special socket or just a large deep 6 point? And is it wrong to wish I had smaller hands for this procedure? LOL If I were to pull the oil filter riser off, are there multiple gaskets that would need replaced(hope I wont have to).

Thanks John

mgbrv8

07-08-2015, 01:39 PM

Not a dumb question at all. They make a special socket for it but a medium length 6 point works just fine.

Dave Hetrick

So prob dumb question, new to pressure switches, but is in a special socket or just a large deep 6 point? And is it wrong to wish I had smaller hands for this procedure? LOL If I were to pull the oil filter riser off, are there multiple gaskets that would need replaced(hope I wont have to).

Thanks John

HAWAIIZR-1

07-09-2015, 12:13 AM

Hey Dave,

Would you happen to know the part number to the one on the top by the oil filter? When driving this weekend I noticed at idle my need on the gauge is bouncing a little bit. It is fine when accelerating or driving otherwise and my guess is the sender is bad. The diagram indicates the one for the gauge is the one that is upright by the filter.

Thanks,

Craig

Dynomite

07-09-2015, 01:11 AM

Oil Pressure Sensor Dash Gauge (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/sensor-oil-pressure-guage-3-terminal-new-90-95-9c5/)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/B%20Engine%20LT5/SOilFilterHousingLabel_zps4cacf14a.jpg

See Oil Filter Adapter Functions (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=194213)

HAWAIIZR-1

07-09-2015, 01:17 AM

Oil Pressure Sensor Dash Gauge (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/sensor-oil-pressure-guage-3-terminal-new-90-95-9c5/)

Thanks Cliff!:handshak:

HAWAIIZR-1

07-17-2015, 11:56 PM

The oil pressure sensor dash gauge was by far the quickest (5 minutes?) and easiest thing to replace in my 12 years of owning ZR-1s. It took less than5 minutes to replace, but the plastic was so brittle on the old one it broke apart and separated from the metal base.

Rd.adam@hotmail.com

09-30-2015, 02:31 PM

Will a bad oil pressure switch cause a NO START problem ?

Hi, I have 2 ZR-1's, both 1990. I was in hospital for several months, etc, and anyways both cars sat for 3-4 years.
Got the black car started briefly, it ran barely for a few minutes, seemed to come around better, then quit. Fuel tank was dry. Assumed faulty fuel pump so changed them out. Car has never fired since.
Pulled 8 plugs out, they all have spark, even though it seems a bit on weaker side. Put fuel pressure gauge on rail,it seems fine, about 50-55 lbs while cranking engine. Still won't start, will not even fire.
Also, have bypassed vats system using a GM dealer vats interrogator black box. Still won't fire.
Any suggestions ?

Also on my red car, it always cranks over, bypassed vats system, it will sometimes fire up. Took it for drive of 10 miles, it had maybe 100 hp or less. My mechanic then cut out catalytic converters, now it starts only when battery connects directly to the purple wire. The car now will not seem to rev up, and backfires a bit. Shut it off, then it will refuse to start until several attempts made.
Both cars were sitting 3-4 years. I even tried swapping ecm's, did not make any difference.
Any suggestions ?
Thanks
Rd.adam@hotmail.com
Dean Adam

ghlkal

07-24-2018, 12:24 AM

I heard some horror stories about removing the Oil pressure switch on our motors.

if you lay on top of the engine from the driver side you can reach your left hand in very easily.

OK ... TTT

Of the three methods I've seen, this is the one I'm trying ...

I cannot get the socket to align with the sensor no matter what I try. I guess my socket is a little too long, or I can't flex the head of the ratchet enough.

Here's my question, let's imagine I get the old sensor off. How in the world would I be able to align and screw in the new sensor?

[BTW,

(1)I think unbolting the mount and lifting the right side of the engine won't work because of my beam plate making the engine/tranny/diff one stiff piece
(2)removing the oil filter housing looks even more scary. I have one oil line off (it was on there with more than 40lb/ft for sure!), but I'm not sure how to remove the lower line without removing the adapter. And then, if I do get the filter housing unbolted, can I twist it enough to reach the adapter, and then what about a gasket, and locktite for the sensors, and how do I seal the adapter, and ..
(3)so, I really want to get Dave's way to work ... help]

mgbrv8

07-24-2018, 12:27 AM

With this technique its not hard to hold it with your hand and screw it in and then get the wrench to tighten it

Dave

OK ... TTT

Of the three methods I've seen, this is the one I'm trying ...

I cannot get the socket to align with the sensor no matter what I try. I guess my socket is a little too long, or I can't flex the head of the ratchet enough.

Here's my question, let's imagine I get the old sensor off. How in the world would I be able to align and screw in the new sensor?

[BTW,

(1)I think unbolting the mount and lifting the right side of the engine won't work because of my beam plate making the engine/tranny/diff one stiff piece
(2)removing the oil filter housing looks even more scary. I have one oil line off (it was on there with more than 40lb/ft for sure!), but I'm not sure how to remove the lower line without removing the adapter. And then, if I do get the filter housing unbolted, can I twist it enough to reach the adapter, and then what about a gasket, and locktite for the sensors, and how do I seal the adapter, and ..
(3)so, I really want to get Dave's way to work ... help]

ghlkal

07-24-2018, 09:22 PM

With this technique its not hard to hold it with your hand and screw it in and then get the wrench to tighten it

Thanks Dave. I didn't think my hands were _that_ big, but it's really tight. I will take a deep breath and try again tomorrow.

mgbrv8

07-24-2018, 10:38 PM

I understand it’s not ideal but it’s the lesser of the evils as they say.

Dave

Thanks Dave. I didn't think my hands were _that_ big, but it's really tight. I will take a deep breath and try again tomorrow.

ghlkal

07-25-2018, 09:58 PM

Thanks again for the tip Dave.

I was actually able to replace the switch, and the easiest part was reaching in with the switch and getting it started. I may have been too cautious about tightening the switch, I stopped once the last thread disappeared. I fired it up for a few minutes and there's no leak. Of course, I need to run it up to temperature and continue to check it, but that's a job for tomorrow.

mgbrv8

07-25-2018, 10:10 PM

Thats great Sir I'm glad it was helpful :salute:

Dave

Thanks again for the tip Dave.

I was actually able to replace the switch, and the easiest part was reaching in with the switch and getting it started. I may have been too cautious about tightening the switch, I stopped once the last thread disappeared. I fired it up for a few minutes and there's no leak. Of course, I need to run it up to temperature and continue to check it, but that's a job for tomorrow.

secondchance

12-07-2020, 09:02 PM

Here are some more pics.

Dave

Well, I had a leak on the passenger side for awhile bu it wasn?t too bad. Recently, amount of leakage got to a point where oil was collecting on the cradle and drip on to the garage floor.
Ordered a replacement sensor from Jerry?s gasket and decided to replace it yesterday. To be sure I had necessary tools and for metal assurance, drove to Phils?s (Jagdpanzer) house.
Looking at it, not much but looked like I could stick my hand in there and get it out without drastic removal of oats. Impatient as I am, I started attacking it before the motor had time to cool. Holding 27mm sensor removal socket, 3/8? drive to 1/4? adapter and a 1/4? drive ratchet (wish I had swivel head), stuck my hand in there. After fiddling for awhile, 4 burned spots on my hand and skin peeling off, got the piece out.
Getting the new piece started was a breeze with Dr. Phil?s impromptu wooden extension mated to sensor connector head. Bolting it in was much easier since I am pushing and more room in that direction.
Phil did a postmortem and interesting the failure identical to mgbrv8?s finding.
I tried to upload the image but somehow I can?t convert to jpg.

secondchance

12-07-2020, 09:40 PM

Figured it out.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/158930568@N06/50692572223/in/dateposted-public/

mgbrv8

12-07-2020, 11:15 PM

Great work Secondchance👍🏻

Dave

Well, I had a leak on the passenger side for awhile bu it wasn?t too bad. Recently, amount of leakage got to a point where oil was collecting on the cradle and drip on to the garage floor.
Ordered a replacement sensor from Jerry?s gasket and decided to replace it yesterday. To be sure I had necessary tools and for metal assurance, drove to Phils?s (Jagdpanzer) house.
Looking at it, not much but looked like I could stick my hand in there and get it out without drastic removal of oats. Impatient as I am, I started attacking it before the motor had time to cool. Holding 27mm sensor removal socket, 3/8? drive to 1/4? adapter and a 1/4? drive ratchet (wish I had swivel head), stuck my hand in there. After fiddling for awhile, 4 burned spots on my hand and skin peeling off, got the piece out.
Getting the new piece started was a breeze with Dr. Phil?s impromptu wooden extension mated to sensor connector head. Bolting it in was much easier since I am pushing and more room in that direction.
Phil did a postmortem and interesting the failure identical to mgbrv8?s finding.
I tried to upload the image but somehow I can?t convert to jpg.

mmkkpro

10-24-2022, 06:02 PM

Man, you guys ROCK. My 1990 just did this. No way to get to it from below, so from the top I go. I unplugged the switch and the connector is full of oil. Ordered one from Jerry a few minutes ago. Figure I will modify my sensor socket and may even try the wire trick. I took my motor mount nuts off, but engine will not budge, afraid to jack it up too hard. Thank you guys for all the ideas, it's a giant help.

secondchance

10-24-2022, 10:52 PM

mmkkpro

10-29-2022, 07:30 PM

:cheers:My wife and I just got done with said switch. Did not remove anything or jack up the engine. My wife went in above the lower radiator hose with her small hands. I bought a short sensor socket from Amazon , and a open end 3/4 wrench. I tried but my hands just would not fit. It took about an hour or so to finish it. Thank you to my wife and you guys for all the information.

blue4:2

11-11-2022, 02:25 PM

My wife have small hands too !
She did the job in 20 minutes
18811

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WARP TEN

11-12-2022, 11:41 AM

My wife have small hands too !
She did the job in 20 minutes
18811

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You have a wonderful wife! Mine wouldn't even know how to open the hood. --Bob

blue4:2

11-12-2022, 12:19 PM

You have a wonderful wife! Mine wouldn't even know how to open the hood. --BobWell.I opened the hood and showed her the position of the sensor and handed her the tools

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EdCruz320

12-25-2023, 05:21 PM

I installed this oil pressure switch today. This thread was very helpful - especially the hint about removing the wheel and middle fender liner panel. I tried using a 27 mm socket but couldn't get it to work. I rummaged around my toolbox and found an actual 3/8 drive oil sensor socket which made the job possible with a regular 3/8 ratchet.

Thanks all!

Starman

12-28-2023, 09:07 PM

The Ares socket is a must, standard 26mm deep socket is too long. Removed the mounting bolts for the heater lines and got in there with a bent handle 3/8? socket wrench. Got the old one out laying across the engine and got the new one started that way by hand. Went in over the lower radiator hose, would be much easier with hose removed, check for leaks for sure if replacing radiator hoses.

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