Oil Change

[csavaglio]

I know this has been covered ad nauseum, but after searching and doing a ton of reading, I've got more questions than answers. After doing 99% of my own car work for my adult life, I never, ever thought I'd be asking questions about an oil change, but here we are.

I'm pretty up and up about what oil and filter to use.

I plan to use a Mityvac to extract the oil. LT5 guys give some contradictory information though. First, guys seem to agree that the oil should be warm before extracting, which on a normal motor, I agree since it drains faster. This requires running the car. They also agree that quite a bit of oil stays in the motor for extended periods of time and the motor needs to sit for hours before all of the oil is in the pan. By the time the oil drains down to the pan, it will have cooled.

I could leave it up on jack stands overnight draining it out of the drain plug, but I have a small 2 car garage and I'm not about to leave my '69 outside overnight, so that's not really a viable option due to space. Besides that, I can't imagine for the life of me that when these cars were new, Chevrolet gave new Z owners a loaner car since a simple oil change take's overnight to accomplish.

So, what's the consensus here? Run the car to heat the oil up and leave a quart+ in the motor (along with the 1.5q in the cooler that everyone's ok with) or pump the cold oil out of the pan after the car's been sitting? I'm not even sure how the mityvac is going to work with cold oil, since I've always done it the old fashioned way and I've heard mixed about whether it's got the guts to pull cold oil.

It seems the goal is to get 9 to 9.5 quarts out of the thing including what's in the filter. Of course, checking the level is done after the motor's been sitting several hours or more.

So, guys using Mityvac's or similar, do you run the car to heat up and thin the oil first, or do you pump it when it's cold, thick, and mostly in the pan?

Thanks, guys.

Chris

[Dynomite]

For Engine Oil Change, Let it sit overnight....drain oil in morning including filter change without starting engine. Sitting overnight should make oil filter change easy with no spilled oil (Drain....not Extract). Draining is better than extracting for the simple reason any unreasonable contaminants sit in the bottom of the oil pan where extraction is impossible....also.....water is heavier than oil.

When the oil draining starts to drip vice run you are done ;)

See LT5/ZR-1 Fluids (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070550)

Add about 9 quarts of AMSOIL 10W-40

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/AMSOIL10W-40oil_zps1b85b817.jpg

25% of the oil you do not get this time you will get 75% of that next time......which is just fine.

For those that have not done so......change ALL fluids when you get the ZR-1 (Engine, Transmission, Differential.....extracting Brake/Clutch Fluid) and then change Oil as well as Transmisison fluid on schedule (see Notes in LT5/ZR-1 Fluids (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070550)).
Wipe clean Brake Fluid reservoirs and Clutch Fluid reservoir under ECM (replace with Dot 4).

[efnfast]

I agree, so much oil gets left in the engine via what's stuck in the motor and whats in the cooler and lines, are we really worried about those last couple drops??? I do change my oil hot, my thought process is that more of the dirt is in suspention(sp) and flows out easier. Not sitting like sludge on the bottom of the pan.

[Dynomite]

I agree, so much oil gets left in the engine via what's stuck in the motor and whats in the cooler and lines, are we really worried about those last couple drops??? I do change my oil hot, my thought process is that more of the dirt is in suspention(sp) and flows out easier. Not sitting like sludge on the bottom of the pan.

Actually that last couple drops of oil is several quarts of oil (which you will get 75% of that (several quarts of old old oil next oil change). Do you think when you start your engine that "sludge" is actually picked up and recirculated :)

If it can be recirculated it can be drained by gravity without recirculation :D

[csavaglio]

I cancelled the order for the extractor thing.

I figure I'll crawl under, pull the plug, and go to bed....I'm finishing up my 12 hour mid shift in about 45 minutes. I should be asleep for 3 or 4 hours and that should give plenty of time for everything to drain out that's going to. After I get up, I'll go pick up the oil and hopefully the filters I ordered will show up by the time I'm filling it back up.

I want to flush out and bleed the clutch hydraulics too while I'm at it. I already did the trans fluid. I make a habit out of changing everything when I get a car, but I only have about 24 hours off after this set.

Chris

[PhillipsLT5]

Mighty Vac is the way to go

[Kevin]

i've never let my oil drain for more the 45 minutes, I wait till it starts to drip out vs flow out on all cars, and I drain ~10 quarts of oil.

[mike100]

Oh man- it's really just another engine. If you change the oil on a reasonable interval, a little bit of old oil in the cooler won't matter.

Drain for 10 minutes- having sat for a couple of hours so the filter doesn't make a mess on removal. I go 5 qts Mobil1 with 4 qts Z-rod Amsoil with the zddp additive. No need for full strength, I'm attempting to duplicate early 90's additive content. This is the only exotic part of my oil change.

If you want to flush the engine and lines out cheaply, get some walmart 10w-30 and run it for 5 miles and then drain it all out.

[csavaglio]

Yeah, I just read all the stories about running the motor and only getting 6 quarts out. I had left the car sitting a few days, so when I got home from work this morning, I opened the drain screw and went to bed. I finished it up after I got up, got oil and the filters came in the mail.

I waited a few hours, added oil, then drove it around the block. I'll check it in the morning before work tomorrow.

I flushed the clutch hydraulics too. It needed it bad. I'd be surprised if it had ever been done before. It does shift much better now....3rd gear would resist a little bit before, but seems a lot better after the clutch stuff and tranny fluid.

Thanks for the help guys. Hopefully it's not over filled when I check it in the morning.

Chris

[WVZR-1]

You didn't mention the quarts used for the fill. How many did you use for the fill?

[csavaglio]

I used just about 9 quarts or so. I initially filled about 8 quarts, started it for about 30 seconds, then let the car sit for a few hours before adding another quart. I added in the last bit after it sat another few hours.

I filled it with Mobil 1 High Mileage at the recommendation of Haibeck when I spoke to him on the phone. He said it's a acceptable alternative to the expensive Amsoil. Going by the ZDDP numbers, it's similar to what oils used to be when the cars were new.

You have to appreciate a car that takes all day to change the oil in.

Chris

[Crusin]

I agree with you CSavaglio in regards to the type of oil to use in the LT5 engine as Mark deffinetly know his stuff when it comes to the ZR-1. I also wondered about the amount of oil left in the engine and oil cooler after just a quick drain. After my first oil change I noticed my change oil light came on after only about 600 miles and the oil seemed dirty. I now let it drain all night and put in fresh oil and filter the next day. The LT5 is a work horse and was a great engine in its time. But I still like the sound from that cam when shifting up threw the gears. Have a good one!

[PhillipsLT5]

oil light may have come on @ 600 miles due to not being reset at oil change?

[csavaglio]

I agree....the oil life monitor in C4s used an algorithm that accounted for RPM, oil temperature, and (I think) number of cold starts. There's no sensor that actually measures the oil's condition.

If it came on at 600 miles, it was most likely because it wasn't reset after the last oil change.

[tomcat]

All, I warm up my ZR1 to operating temp. Let it sit for 2 hours. Drain oil overnight. Put 8 quarts of oil in ZR1. Wait 2 hours check oil, top off oil if needed.

Manfred E.............:proud:.

91 ZR1 #906

[Blownrunner]

I also drain my oil cooler, there is a 1/8" allen plug on the passenger side below the oil cooler. I get about 1 1/2 to 2 quarts out of it. I also check the operation of the oil level sensor when the oil is drained and again after I fill the engine. Just thought I would throw that in.

[RyanChappel]

Relying on this site for ZR-1 advice is sort of like living out the premise of the '60s book by Alvin Toffler, 'Future Shock'.

The premise of the book was that in the future, through technology, we humans would have so much information available at the touch of a button, that we would be unable to cope..and the phrase coined by Toffler to describe that condition was 'Future Shock'.....

In terms of oil...reading posts by very worthy sources, we have learned that Amsoil 10W-40, and Mobil1 are consensus picks for engine oil...

Mobil1's website recommends 5W-30 synthetic rather than the Hi-Mileage version which I read about here..

Why would Mobil1's site recommend 5W as opposed to 10W, and why the regular product in place of the Hi-Mileage (more zinc?) product???

My 19K mileage car has always run 10W regular Mobil1......I need to get an oil change, and am tired of being mired in the hated !WAXER! category, so.........I'm set on doing it myself..

I've already decided on the ACDelco PF970C option for the filter..

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

[Tripler]

Another question is do we also have to replace the oil drain plug washer ? Or is that washer good for the life of the engine ?. Obviously replace it if it is leaking in anyway of course . Changing the oil on the Z next week . May do the over night drain but not sure yet . I do enjoy putting the Z up on the BL 5000 tho ... ( Quick Jack )
Also getting Mobil1 High mileage yet I noticed a post saying that regular Mobil1 is fine . Does it matter ? We change it every year regardless before the Z is put to bed for the winter .

[lfalzarano]

I tried the extended Mobile 1, but went back to the regular stuff.


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[BigJohn]

REGULAR STUFF?

[lfalzarano]

Mobile 1 10W-30
https://www.mobil.com/english-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-1-10w30


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[Z51JEFF]

Amsoil and Bosch filter. Replace filter before I start the car. Warm up car,get car in the air and drain oil. Half hour later cars on the ground and fill with oil. What little oil left in the engine before refill is fine. Just noticed this post is 4 years old.

[Tripler]

So know one has changed there oil in 4 years lol ?
;)

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[lfalzarano]

Minimum of a year or 3,000 miles. Whichever comes first


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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Brad Penn 10w30 with Mobil 1 extended life filter, once per year in spring.
Marty

[Tripler]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171007/b0fc80fe42bc386f8916269f733bc91a.jpg

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[ssrszz4]

The high mileage has some type of modifier that helps stop gasket leaks think that's the only difference.

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[lfalzarano]

Those jacks make changing the oil a lot easier. I built two wooden ramps that ar idiot proof and won’t slide. Changed mine yesterday with Monle 1 10W-30 and a PF930C Delco oil filter.

[BigJohn]

Monle 1?

[Paul Workman]

Also getting Mobil1 High mileage yet I noticed a post saying that regular Mobil1 is fine . Does it matter ? We change it every year regardless before the Z is put to bed for the winter .

Yeah...I've seen that said too. But, that is NOT very helpful; misleading at the very least, and potentially harmful at best!

Just using "Mobil-1" w/o further distinction is like saying oil is oil w/o consideration of ZDDP, or gas is gas - w/o any consideration for octane levels.[-X

Yeah, the Z will run on 87 octane - the knock sensors and the ECM will back off the timing several degrees, performance will consequently suffer some, but yeah, it will run on it: has to to comply w/ EPA standards (dating back to the mid/late 80s).

Not quite the same analogy tho with oil. Loss of performance due to octane reduction is (more or less) immediately noticed. But, with oil, wear is the issue, and damage (due to inadequate levels of phosphorous/zinc ZDDP levels) is insidious . In time (wear) will reach a critical point and catastrophic failure is a real possibility.

Oil manufactures go on and on about this and that, and how the lower levels of phosphorous/zinc is offset by (you name it). I occurs to me they're often protecting their butts; admitting nothing and playing the odds. But, LOOK their oils recommended, focusing on the ZDDP levels in particular, as it applies to their racing and flat tappet motor applications! You don't have to be a "rocket scientist" to "look beyond..."

As w/ most things, too much (of a good thing) or too little (ZDDP) apparently has their drawbacks. I ain't no chemist; more of a statistician (I guess), and the "bell curve" seems to favor ZDDP levels in the 1200/1300 ppm (phosphorous/zinc) for our general application as well as that of other flat tappet motors.

So, I guess what I'm trying to say is, (most) wouldn't gas up their tank with any ol octane, and likewise neither should one fill the crankcase with any ol oil (Mobil-1 or whatever) w/o availing themselves of the specs of the different products they offer and for what application it is best suited.

Oil isn't just oil. This chart from Mobil-1 has over a dozen different products with ZDDP levels running from low to very high. It's probably prudent to know there is a difference? See Marc Haibecks article on "Modern Oils..." (http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/modern%20oil.htm)

.

[Crusin]

I agree with your assessment 100% Mr Workman in regards to type of oil to be used in the LT5. I think Mark knows the LT5 engine inside out and if he suggests using Amsoil oil, that's what I am using in mine.