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Z06scentair
10-10-2013, 09:48 PM
New to this forum but not to corvette's.

Does anyone know anything about car number 758 which is a 1990

Car is located in CA. Will be purchasing on Monday and shipping it to NC. West coast to East Coast.

Thanks in advance.

We Gone
10-10-2013, 10:00 PM
You will need to include year.

BigJohn
10-11-2013, 07:18 AM
What color?

Z06scentair
10-11-2013, 02:14 PM
What color?

car is red on red, according to the car fax it was originally from KS.

Z06scentair
10-11-2013, 09:45 PM
Really need some help here ladies and gentlemen, that is if anyone can.

Anyone know anything about this car. Appears to have never had much done to it other than tires and a chip?

With 16k miles what kind of maintenence is it going to take to get the beast roadworthy again?

The current owner has had for about a year and doesnt really have any informational history on the car. Only driven the car maybe 100 miles.

Want to make 100% sure this purchase is the right move?

GTOger
10-11-2013, 09:58 PM
Really need some help here ladies and gentlemen, that is if anyone can.

Anyone know anything about this car. Appears to have never had much done to it other than tires and a chip?

With 16k miles what kind of maintenence is it going to take to get the beast roadworthy again?

The current owner has had for about a year and doesnt really have any informational history on the car. Only driven the car maybe 100 miles.

Want to make 100% sure this purchase is the right move?

Wow, well that's a big question with no easy answer. The LT5 engine is very bulletproof and tough to kill, but it can have a bit of a temper, especially if it has been abused or has not been exercised. 16k miles means this car has had less than 700 miles per year on average and that, in my opinion, is not enough to have much of a history at all. So even if the current owner said "oh yeah, it runs great", if it's been sitting then the seals could all be dried up, hoses dry-rotted, etc.

Your best bet is going to be to have a mechanic give it a look.

That said, be prepared to spend some money, or some time, or both. You are nearly 100% assured of needing new fuel injectors. If the original ones are on there, they'll be destroyed after the first several tanks of ethanol-laced gasoline. Is that a big deal? Not really. My wife and I changed ours out in the garage.

Other stuff you'll find is going to be all the stuff consistent with a car that has spent the vast majority of its life as a full-size model car.

That said, we just brought our 1992 Firehawk out of storage. Unfortunately I had allowed it to sit for far too long. 5 years, give or take. The car is 21 years old and has about 5600 miles on it, so you can see it isn't driven nearly enough. All the sway-bar bushings had dried out and cracked away, the differential fluid had turned, and of course all the fluids got drained, flushed and replaced. After that, the car is driving great. So it can be done.

Nobody here is going to have a crystal ball to tell you that you will need to spend $xyz in order to have this particular car road-worthy again. But as someone who took the plunge into a 1990 ZR-1 a few years ago, I can attest that if you do decide to get the car and you run into something tricky, there is no better community to get you through it than this one right here.

Z06scentair
10-11-2013, 10:25 PM
Thanks.....I'm prepared to spend some money, just don't want to break the bank trying to get the car back roadworthy.

The owner just cranked the car and says it ran good with no flat spots or missing. Here in NC we have LOTS of ethanol in the gas so we'll see what happens about the injectors.

I've wanted one of these cars forever just never been in a financial position to make it happen until now.

Not scared to wrench and my brother wrenches daily so we have the ability to complete even major task.

So other than bushings and injectors what else can I count on having to replace?

GTOger
10-11-2013, 11:22 PM
Not having seen the car, I'm not sure how to answer.

Count on the injectors. You'll either replace them proactively, or you'll be driving along and suddenly the car will feel like it's falling apart, the engine will quit, and you'll smell gasoline so strong you will swear you just bathed in it. If you think it sounds like I speak from experience, you're right.

Other than that, on my 1990 with ~37k miles we've replaced coil packs, removed the TPMS, changed out the belt tensioner and water pump, new tires, new sound system & GPS, and replaced a switch on one of the shock absorbers. The car has been very reliable other than that. We drive it around town, it goes to work with me on nice days, and we've taken a few road trips, including one to Las Vegas & back from Dallas. The a/c even blows ice cold.

I feel our car has done well for us. Your mileage may vary. Literally.

mike100
10-11-2013, 11:53 PM
All the speaker amps could be suspect(the capacitors dry up). I did the injectors, leaky oil cooler lines replaced, and I lost the belt tensioner at 30k miles. The trans rebuild wasn't too fun either- i would probably not buy a car sight unseen ever again.

I spent most of my money during the first 18 months. I have taken it on 1000mile trips 3 times without any issue...you just have to put it into service long enough to break the weak links

Z06scentair
10-12-2013, 09:24 AM
Maybe its time to rethink this car.

GTOger
10-12-2013, 09:48 AM
I think what we're saying is nobody seems to have enough information on the car to tell you "oh, here is an itemized list with costs of everything you'll need to do."

And FWIW I don't think that any of the issues we are mentioning, or the issues that you have mentioned, are totally unique to ZR-1s. Take any car that has been sitting that long and you're bound to come up with a list of needs.

A lot depends on what you want to do with it. You're right to rethink the car. Rethink it over and over again. I know lots of guys who buy their cars without ever seeing them in person, but I couldn't do it. For me, I need a feel for the car. We need to have a conversation and get to know each other.

You could buy the nicest 20+ year old car on the planet and I promise you will still spend time & money on it at some point. You'll need to be OK with that before you can move forward.

LGAFF
10-12-2013, 09:51 AM
Its all small stuff.....I would not sweat it

efnfast
10-12-2013, 09:52 AM
Maybe its time to rethink this car.

That may depend on the price.

Racinfan83
10-12-2013, 10:23 AM
From the perspective of a guy who got one with 17k on it this spring - And I had NO experience with Vettes at all...

So far - I had the injectors and coils replaced, new MAP sensor hose, one of the secondary actuators was bad and fixed as well. Radiator pulled and cleaned, new thermostat, put a Haibeck chip in it which totally fixed the high temp at idle issue. Third brake light switch was bad. Changed A/C over to R -134. Tires were bad (and this with 95% tread) - I assume they were flat spotted from sitting in one spot for long time. Seat lumbar pumps don't work - and I presume the bladders are bad too (haven't got that far yet). Headlight motors rebuilt. I have also LED'd the interior and underhood lights, put new rear package tray & trim in, and many other odds and ends just to get the car as perfect as possible. I figure I have dropped about $3500 in it since I got it. But now it is a blast to drive, looks good enough that I have won best in class in a show already, and it keeps me busy when I need something to tinker with.... :cheers:
So it just depends on how mechanically inclined you are - and if you can spend some money on it a bit at a time. I think the end result is worth it...=D>

GTOger
10-12-2013, 10:30 AM
Oh yeah, I forgot about the headlight issue. Nobody likes a winking Vette, and they all do it. IIRC that was about $10 and an hour in the garage....

Same thing with the lumbars. They all fail.

Currently on my "to do" list is the 3rd brake light switch and reverse lights are inop. Does it take maintenance? Oh yeah. The car absolutely sticks its hand out from time to time. But on the flip-side, there's no payment to a bank, and I've had very few cars in my life that have consistently delivered the grins & chuckles this one does. When it's good, it's very, very good.

Z06scentair
10-12-2013, 10:49 AM
Oh yeah, I forgot about the headlight issue. Nobody likes a winking Vette, and they all do it. IIRC that was about $10 and an hour in the garage....

Same thing with the lumbars. They all fail.

Currently on my "to do" list is the 3rd brake light switch and reverse lights are inop. Does it take maintenance? Oh yeah. The car absolutely sticks its hand out from time to time. But on the flip-side, there's no payment to a bank, and I've had very few cars in my life that have consistently delivered the grins & chuckles this one does. When it's good, it's very, very good.

Thank you once again......I honestly feel this is the car in my heart.....when these feelings come to me the car usually comes to stay.


I'm not scared to wrench as I said before. Have just never turned a wrench on an LT5.

Im still mulling.....would be a relieve if someone here pops up and says that was my car and this has been done or that has been done, even negitive advice at this point would be useful.

Z51JEFF
10-12-2013, 08:57 PM
Thank you once again......I honestly feel this is the car in my heart.....when these feelings come to me the car usually comes to stay.


I'm not scared to wrench as I said before. Have just never turned a wrench on an LT5.

Im still mulling.....would be a relieve if someone here pops up and says that was my car and this has been done or that has been done, even negitive advice at this point would be useful.

Whats the car going for?The next Z you look at will need the same amount of work if not more if its an early car,injectors will need to be replaced regardless of miles.The one of the only maintenance items that need attention in a 90-92 are the injectors,all of the other items that fail in the car for the most part are C4 related.The injectors in my 91 died at 8000 original miles.I havent read all the posts here so I may have repeated some info here.The injectors alone with gaskets will cost maybe $800-$1000 depending on what injectors you go with.I just checked out the add,the cars a little high on price by a few thousand put if its a nice car id pay what the owner wanted but the injector issue would be something to negotiate on the final price.

Kevin
10-12-2013, 09:01 PM
Maybe its time to rethink this car.

you're looking at a 20 year old car, they will have problems...i've been chasing them for 5 or 6 consecutive years, injectors, o2 sensors, ac locking up, now a bad ecm and a vacuum leak. Don't expect this car to run perfectly, I'm shocked every time mine starts at this point. If you're not prepared to work on a car, don't buy a zr-1, or any other 20 year old car. Buy a c6. Not trying to sound like an ***, but that's just the way things are

Kevin
10-12-2013, 09:02 PM
Its all small stuff.....I would not sweat it

small stuff can add up. $550 for injectors, same for labor if you can't do it yourself, gaskets, pumps, wires, plugs....you can be over $3,000 easily

XfireZ51
10-12-2013, 10:23 PM
you're looking at a 20 year old car, they will have problems...i've been chasing them for 5 or 6 consecutive years, injectors, o2 sensors, ac locking up, now a bad ecm and a vacuum leak. Don't expect this car to run perfectly, I'm shocked every time mine starts at this point. If you're not prepared to work on a car, don't buy a zr-1, or any other 20 year old car. Buy a c6. Not trying to sound like an ***, but that's just the way things are

You really need to get your Z over here so some of us can do a once over on it.

Kevin
10-12-2013, 10:26 PM
You really need to get your Z over here so some of us can do a once over on it.

getting it over there isn't the issue. paying the bill is.

We Gone
10-12-2013, 10:36 PM
I bought my 91 in 02 with 9K miles on it, only thing that I had go wrong in 11 years the oil lines leaked. Now has 53K miles only normal maintenance and is now at Haibeck's for some upgrades all elective.

Had a 90 bought with 20K miles on it in the next 30K had to replace clutch,injectors,water pump,alternator,brake master,idler,prom, you just never know.

Z06scentair
10-12-2013, 11:02 PM
SocalErv in California is the car that will be coming to the East Coast.

NCRS Top Flight Bound!

XfireZ51
10-12-2013, 11:41 PM
getting it over there isn't the issue. paying the bill is.

Sounds like you've got a slow bleed right now.

Kevin
10-12-2013, 11:42 PM
Sounds like you've got a slow bleed right now.

so you're saying we've got a bleeder?







sorry, guess we're getting off track

Dynomite
10-13-2013, 12:18 AM
I'm shocked every time mine starts at this point.

:sign10: That is a very scary thought......:D

Kevin......Kevin....Kevin.....Just let me have your ZR-1 for a couple weeks and you will get over your shock quickly when you get it back :D

Oh...and I am the only one who admits it publicly that I disconnect the Negative Battery Cable if I expect the ZR-1 to sit for more than a few days. And it fires right up after sitting for a couple months (winter) with NO battery charging required.

And that Hood that keeps falling.....just get a new Hood strut and you lift the Hood 3/4 the way and the strut opens the Hood the rest of the way. You actually have to pull the Hood down 1/3 the way to close the Hood.

XfireZ51
10-13-2013, 01:29 AM
:sign10: That is a very scary thought......:D

Kevin......Kevin....Kevin.....Just let me have your ZR-1 for a couple weeks and you will get over your shock quickly when you get it back :D

Oh...and I am the only one who admits it publicly that I disconnect the Negative Battery Cable if I expect the ZR-1 to sit for more than a few days. And it fires right up after sitting for a couple months (winter) with NO battery charging required.

And that Hood that keeps falling.....just get a new Hood strut and you lift the Hood 3/4 the way and the strut opens the Hood the rest of the way. You actually have to pull the Hood down 1/3 the way to close the Hood.

That's what I'm talkin about!

bdw18_123
10-13-2013, 04:57 PM
I'm not scared to wrench as I said before. Have just never turned a wrench on an LT5.

I wouldn't worry too much about that. If you've turned a wrench before and have 'mechanical' common sense, all you need is to learn the details of this particular engine and this community is great for that. I hadn't wrenched on an LT5 either when I bought my first ZR-1 off ebay sight-unseen (only pictures) and mine was a total basket-case; it didn't even run. Even some on this forum back then were saying it was a 'part-out' car before I bought it.

But I pretty much completely disassembled/reassembled the LT5 and even tackled the biggest job on this engine: timing it. I brought '90 ZR-1 #2299 back to life on probably the tightest budget of anyone here and had many miles of perma-grin ( :mrgreen: ) in it afterwards. Here's a link to my restoration thread if you're interested (lots of pics!):

www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9693 (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9693)

..., I can attest that if you do decide to get the car and you run into something tricky, there is no better community to get you through it than this one right here.

I can definitely confirm that from personal experience. Had a lot of help from this awesome community and even some parts donations from a few guys here.

So I say, go for it!

Kevin
10-13-2013, 05:00 PM
:sign10: That is a very scary thought......:D

Kevin......Kevin....Kevin.....Just let me have your ZR-1 for a couple weeks and you will get over your shock quickly when you get it back :D

Oh...and I am the only one who admits it publicly that I disconnect the Negative Battery Cable if I expect the ZR-1 to sit for more than a few days. And it fires right up after sitting for a couple months (winter) with NO battery charging required.

And that Hood that keeps falling.....just get a new Hood strut and you lift the Hood 3/4 the way and the strut opens the Hood the rest of the way. You actually have to pull the Hood down 1/3 the way to close the Hood.

no issues with the hood actually.

Paul Workman
10-13-2013, 05:39 PM
you're looking at a 20 year old car, they will have problems...i've been chasing them for 5 or 6 consecutive years, injectors, o2 sensors, ac locking up, now a bad ecm and a vacuum leak. Don't expect this car to run perfectly, I'm shocked every time mine starts at this point. If you're not prepared to work on a car, don't buy a zr-1, or any other 20 year old car. Buy a c6. Not trying to sound like an ***, but that's just the way things are

Oh, BS, Kevin! I agree with Dom.:cheers:

Kevin
10-13-2013, 05:42 PM
Oh, BS, Kevin! I agree with Dom.:cheers:

apparently I just need to put $12,500 into a $25,000 car to get it to run right...I'll get right on that

Z06scentair
10-13-2013, 06:17 PM
I wouldn't worry too much about that. If you've turned a wrench before and have 'mechanical' common sense, all you need is to learn the details of this particular engine and this community is great for that. I hadn't wrenched on an LT5 either when I bought my first ZR-1 off ebay sight-unseen (only pictures) and mine was a total basket-case; it didn't even run. Even some on this forum back then were saying it was a 'part-out' car before I bought it.

But I pretty much completely disassembled/reassembled the LT5 and even tackled the biggest job on this engine: timing it. I brought '90 ZR-1 #2299 back to life on probably the tightest budget of anyone here and had many miles of perma-grin ( :mrgreen: ) in it afterwards. Here's a link to my restoration thread if you're interested (lots of pics!):

www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9693 (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?

t=9693)



I can definitely confirm that from personal experience. Had a lot of help from this awesome community and even some parts donations from a few guys here.



So I say, go for it!

Thanks,

Will be taking a huge leap tomorrow wiring bank to bank a substantial amount of money for SoCalErv's Red machine site unseen!

I trust Ervin is a stand up guy and has been more than honest about the car.

It has always been a dream to own a ZR-1 especially a car this nice. Plans are to NCRS to prove some points. Then drive the wheels off it!

TCurtner
11-17-2013, 12:24 AM
So...how did it go?
My opinion (after owning many C4s, C5s and C6s) is that a ZR-1 WILL reward you for any work that you have to perform on it to get it up to snuff. :-D

Z06scentair
11-17-2013, 12:47 AM
So...how did it go?
My opinion (after owning many C4s, C5s and C6s) is that a ZR-1 WILL reward you for any work that you have to perform on it to get it up to snuff. :-D

Everything went great...the car has some small issues that Im working through, but all is good.

Really a cherry car that seems to be a very good potential NCRS candidate!

So far I have corrected bad air bag sensor grounding connections, replaced the plugs, polished the $¥!t out of it.

Tomorrow its running down an oil leak, potentially a manifold bolt loose. And then on to detailing the underside.

Having a ball so far brother.....thanks for asking!

Z06scentair
11-17-2013, 12:53 AM
you're looking at a 20 year old car, they will have problems...i've been chasing them for 5 or 6 consecutive years, injectors, o2 sensors, ac locking up, now a bad ecm and a vacuum leak. Don't expect this car to run perfectly, I'm shocked every time mine starts at this point. If you're not prepared to work on a car, don't buy a zr-1, or any other 20 year old car. Buy a c6. Not trying to sound like an ***, but that's just the way things are

Two c6 cars couldn't compare to this car....you hear me? LOL

csavaglio
11-17-2013, 11:10 AM
Two c6 cars couldn't compare to this car....you hear me? LOL

Truer words were never spoken..... the new cars are just really fast cars...no soul or personality like the older cars.

Congratulations on the new car! I don't know if you posted photos since I'm at work and they block pics, but if you haven't, throw some up.

Chris

Kevin
11-17-2013, 12:36 PM
Two c6 cars couldn't compare to this car....you hear me? LOL

haven't driven a c6 so i couldn't tell you. but as long as you're enjoying your car that's what's important.

Z06scentair
11-17-2013, 06:37 PM
haven't driven a c6 so i couldn't tell you. but as long as you're enjoying your car that's what's important.

You should drive one......wanna feel very quick torque and power? All while achieving 22mpg? drive one! I've seen 30 mpg in the c5 z06 on multiple occasions. The 22mpg figure was being realistic cause I can't keep my foot out of it. Wanna go twisties? Drive one....flat out EXHILERATING!

They are just too refined for me had an 08 z06. Stupid power Stupid fast.....but ride like a luxury car.....When driving a vette I wanna hear crap rattling.

Took the 63 roadster out for a spin this morning. It rides like crap and squeaks and cracks but guess what? It's flat out bad azz......can just sit back and stare at those beautiful body lines :cheers:

LGAFF
11-17-2013, 06:45 PM
I am surprised to read about all of the C6 Z06 valve guide failures...is this all or just certain model years?

Kevin
11-17-2013, 06:49 PM
You should drive one......wanna feel very quick torque and power? All while achieving 22mpg? drive one! I've seen 30 mpg in the c5 z06 on multiple occasions. The 22mpg figure was being realistic cause I can't keep my foot out of it. Wanna go twisties? Drive one....flat out EXHILERATING!

They are just too refined for me had an 08 z06. Stupid power Stupid fast.....but ride like a luxury car.....When driving a vette I wanna hear crap rattling.

Took the 63 roadster out for a spin this morning. It rides like crap and squeaks and cracks but guess what? It's flat out bad azz......can just sit back and stare at those beautiful body lines :cheers:
only one person I know with a c6 and wouldn't feel right asking her to drive her car

Z06scentair
11-17-2013, 06:51 PM
only one person I know with a c6 and wouldn't feel right asking her to drive her car

If you ever come through North Carolina brother look me up!

Z51JEFF
11-17-2013, 06:55 PM
I am surprised to read about all of the C6 Z06 valve guide failures...is this all or just certain model years?

Mainly from what Ive read its the first few years of the C6 Z06.In the beginning G.M. wouldnt cover the repair for damage.

Z06scentair
11-17-2013, 07:08 PM
Mainly from what Ive read its the first few years of the C6 Z06.In the beginning G.M. wouldnt cover the repair for damage.

They still have not admitted the problem. But i can tell you I have seen 7,8,9,10,11 cars with less that 30k miles with dropped valves. It was not only the early motors. My heads came off at 3k miles and were cnc'd by advanced induction. They replaced the valve guides at the same time.

If you drop a valve on the 7L, the block is toast....get ya pocketbook out! In the end you will have the baddest boat anchor on the lake!

Chevrolet had a similar issue with the c5 z06 2002-2004 valve springs. I broke one on the yellow 02 z06 48k miles...was lucky didnt drop a valve. The broken spring was taken to stork-labs for failure analysis.....guess what? It was brittle from being in the fire too long! Replaced the springs and she was tach twisting once again.

The red 02 z06 had the springs replaced @ 36k never had an issue with the factory springs.

I like the C5 better than the C6 z06 vs. z06. Put a vortec on the LS6 and hold the heck on, cause you will be hard pressed to find another street car keep up!

TCurtner
11-17-2013, 08:13 PM
oh-oh...here we go!
Which car is fastest?
All i know is that my ZR-1 - don't even have headers yet, but do have custom 3" back exhaust from cats, and Haibeck chip with secondary bypass (and shamefully, interior mostly out for track use), and lowered with racing shocks - can lead a pack of cars with 200, 300, 400 more HP and much more torque, and make them work really hard to try and keep up. Case in point, blown 900(I think) HP viper and blown 800+Hp C6 Z06, both with suspension work and latest wheels/tires. Let's just say they were bumfuzzled and impressed beyond measure.

I have YET to figure this car out, how it can blow off so many other vehicles on street and track - it's bad math, I'm sure. Somehow, there is a force-multiplier at work, heck, it may even be spiritual. The car is just surreal...something doesn't compute, but the outcome has become sooooo predictable, that i just keep smiling, and working on my LT5, and enjoying the drive. :dancing

:-D:D:dontknow:

Z06scentair
11-17-2013, 08:21 PM
oh-oh...here we go!
Which car is fastest?
All i know is that my ZR-1 - don't even have headers yet, but do have custom 3" back exhaust from cats - can lead a pack of cars with 200, 300, 400 more HP and much more torque, and make them work really hard to try and keep up. Case in point, 900(I think) HP viper and 800+Hp C6 Z06 with suspension and latest wheels tires. Let's just say they were bumfuzzled and impressed beyond measure.

I have YET to figure this car out, how it can blow off so many other vehicles on street and track - it's bad math, I'm sure. Somehow, there is a force-multiplier at work, heck, it may even be spiritual. The car is just surreal...something doesn't compute, but the outcome has become sooooo predictable, that i just keep smiling, and working on my LT5, and enjoying the drive. :dancing

:-D:D:dontknow:

Not about whats faster....I was just expressing to Kevin that if he hasnt driven one of the newer cars he should, and any other zr-1 owner for that matter.


I love the ZR-1, It's a different breed!

TCurtner
11-17-2013, 08:22 PM
True...they are ALL great. I think the 90-95 Z just has a visceral quality that the others lost somehow. Haven't driven the C7 yet, my wife likes 'em so..who knows?? might end up with the Z version thereof. :proud:

Z06scentair
11-17-2013, 08:27 PM
True...they are ALL great. I think the 90-95 Z just has a visceral quality that the others lost somehow. Haven't driven the C7 yet, my wife likes 'em so..who knows?? might end up with the Z version thereof. :proud:

At the dealership yesterday.....guess what in the service bay? Yep a c7 with issues....imagine that.

Dave told me it had some sort of coolant smell inside that cabin which made it unbearable to drive.:censored: GM had flown an engineer down last week to analyze with no root cause established. Man I would like to see that 8D corrective action!

I like em though and with you there, may be another z in the stable next year:cheers:

TCurtner
11-17-2013, 08:31 PM
The only disagreement that we have had is paddle shifter (her) vs. 7 spd manual (moi). OF COURSE...

Yes our garages would appreciate the new model, now wouldn't they? :cheers:

Z06scentair
11-17-2013, 08:38 PM
The only disagreement that we have had is paddle shifter (her) vs. 7 spd manual (moi). OF COURSE...

Yes our garages would appreciate the new model, now wouldn't they? :cheers:

You got that shot right buddy!

BigJohn
11-18-2013, 07:49 AM
I am surprised to read about all of the C6 Z06 valve guide failures...is this all or just certain model years?

Yep!
LS7's have other problems; pistons and rods!
The Drysump system isn't any good for the track!
Mine went Boom on the Dyno!
It was not a fun day!
Now, I have new Cylinder Sleeves, Pistons and Rods.


:dontknow:

Hog
11-18-2013, 10:56 AM
At the dealership yesterday.....guess what in the service bay? Yep a c7 with issues....imagine that.

Dave told me it had some sort of coolant smell inside that cabin which made it unbearable to drive.:censored: GM had flown an engineer down last week to analyze with no root cause established. Man I would like to see that 8D corrective action!

I like em though and with you there, may be another z in the stable next year:cheers:
Dealerships arpound here wernt allowed to touch the LT5, it had to go for a trip down South.

Every machine is going to break down. Just because 1 breaks, doesnt mean there are "issues" doesnt necessarily mean the design is faulty.

The C6 saw 2 dry sump designs, the early ones were redesigned. That wasnt just an LS7 issue, it affected the LS3 dry sump as well.

TCurtner
11-18-2013, 12:00 PM
Dealerships arpound here wernt allowed to touch the LT5, it had to go for a trip down South.

Every machine is going to break down. Just because 1 breaks, doesnt mean there are "issues" doesnt necessarily mean the design is faulty.

The C6 saw 2 dry sump designs, the early ones were redesigned. That wasnt just an LS7 issue, it affected the LS3 dry sump as well.


I enjoyed my (several) C6 Z06s - they were entertaining to drive, and very strong runners...but i would have to take issue with the design statement. If they did all the testing that they apparently did (have you seen the video with Dave Hill touting the car's testing on tracks and the dedicated parts from the racing program/experience?), then the dry sump system should be completely reliable under track conditions. I'm sure the 1.2 - 1.3 g (minimum) that the car can pull under ideal conditions (even with the RFlats) should have uncovered any issues with the dry sump engineering. And yet, many of the track failures that have been reported through the years of the oiling alone indicate that either the design was not correct, or that there are faults introduced in production parts or changes which may be influencing the outcome. Either way, something is not right. The Z06 was introduced as a track-worthy car from the factory (safety equipment not withstanding), and that has just not held true. The oiling, the brakes, and the engine itself have had issues. Compare that to the 08-10 Viper...what a difference. The Viper is completely track worthy (avec safety equipment). I'm not sure where I am going with this other than to say, my LT5 has had none of the oiling issues of the LS7 (however, the cooling system is another story, and one of the blackest marks on the ZR-1 in my opinion - i am STILL working on solving that engineering faux pas). And for that, i am grateful.

Z06scentair
11-18-2013, 06:10 PM
Dealerships arpound here wernt allowed to touch the LT5, it had to go for a trip down South.

Every machine is going to break down. Just because 1 breaks, doesnt mean there are "issues" doesnt necessarily mean the design is faulty.

The C6 saw 2 dry sump designs, the early ones were redesigned. That wasnt just an LS7 issue, it affected the LS3 dry sump as well.

The gentleman who changed the oil in my car saturday was the trained mechanic in North Carolina about 20 so years ago. My brother trained under him in 1988-1989 at the dealership.

He is very knowledgeable about the LT5 and was impressed by my car although he did question the mileage due to the amount residual grease/oil.

After further evaluation I discovered the root cause was most likely a leaking oil cooler line sometime in the long past. Evidence of brazing was present on both oil cooler lines. For the most part it appeared very dry now.