engine wear

[90ZR1#1221]

Yesterday before taking my car out for a spin I started it and let her run for a few minutes to warm everything up. Backed it out of the garage and thought I heard a slight knock. Shut the car off and checked the engine oil which I do religiously. Upon inspection it was low. Very low. I also saw what I thought at first glance was bubbles but upon further inspection was shiny bits of metal. Put a magnet to it, it's not magnetic. Now I know the engine is going to wear and there will be metal in the oil but enough that it shows up on the dipstick? After I let it sit again for a few hours and looked at it when I pulled the dipstick the oil barely reads up the dipstick. Today I'm going to drain the oil pull a sample, refill the oil run it for a bit then drain resample and refill again with fresh oil. There's only 30k miles on the engine I'd find it very hard to believe the engine is coming apart already. Maybe I'm just freaking out as I've been known to do with my cars. Also it seems to have excessive crank case pressure as after everytime I drive her I need to push the dipstick back in to the tube. It will get blown out maybe a 1/4". Any ideas what could cause that?

[Dynomite]

When is the last time you changed oil?
History of the car?
Any Oil Leaks?
How did the Oil get so low?
It can be assumed you did not get to zero Oil Pressure?
Cam Cover Journals are Aluminum.
Main Bearings and Rod Bearings?
If you find Aluminum in the Oil....pull the Cam Covers first thing and inspect the Cam Covers.

[90ZR1#1221]

I've only had the car since June. I bought it from a gentleman who had another ZR1 and he is a GM Technician at the local chevy dealer. I'm one oil leak appears to be coming from the intake I can see a small puddle on the right side of the motor it puddles on top of the head where the intake meets the head. The other oil leak I'm guessing comes from the dipstick blowing out of the tube. The oil was changed this year no more then 2000 miles ago as I've only put about 900 on it since I purchased the car. Oil pressure is still where it should be. As far as how it got so low I'm not sure. There's no big puddles under the car. Just usually about a spot the size of a quarter accumulates when I park the car. It only gets driven maybe once a week.

[gbrtng]

Send the oldest sample to Blackstone for analysis to get a clue what the contaminant is.

[Dynomite]

I've only had the car since June. I bought it from a gentleman who had another ZR1 and he is a GM Technician at the local chevy dealer. I'm one oil leak appears to be coming from the intake I can see a small puddle on the right side of the motor it puddles on top of the head where the intake meets the head. The other oil leak I'm guessing comes from the dipstick blowing out of the tube. The oil was changed this year no more then 2000 miles ago as I've only put about 900 on it since I purchased the car. Oil pressure is still where it should be. As far as how it got so low I'm not sure. There's no big puddles under the car. Just usually about a spot the size of a quarter accumulates when I park the car. It only gets driven maybe once a week.

Well...others will chime in but first you have to drain the oil. Then you have to determine what is contaminating the oil and if this has been going on for years or just something new since your last oil change. Has the top end been removed at any time for example?

Just go slow and follow the leads others might help you with. Something is not adding up on the oil level. You have to remove the Plenum and fix that oil leak in any event.

It appears the oil was changed by others 2,000 miles ago and not an oil change by yourself. So this issue of contaminants could have been long term issue and maybe oil was NOT changed 2,000 miles ago after all.

[90ZR1#1221]

As far as I know about the history of the car, the guy I bought it from put a clutch, flywheel, injectors, plugs, wires, and coil packs on it. But yes, really all I can do is wait to hear back from the lab and see what the report reads out. i'm also going to cut the oil filter open and see what its got caught in there too.

[Dynomite]

As far as I know about the history of the car, the guy I bought it from put a clutch, flywheel, injectors, plugs, wires, and coil packs on it. But yes, really all I can do is wait to hear back from the lab and see what the report reads out. i'm also going to cut the oil filter open and see what its got caught in there too.

Plenum has definitly been removed ;)
Great idea on inspecting the oil filter :thumbsup:

If dipstick is blowing out of the tube....inspect your PCV system (positive Crankcase Ventilation).

[mike100]

A minor leak is not a big concern, but these engines do use oil when you rev them out. If you can still see oil somewhere low on the dipstick, you probably still have a safe amount to at least start the car and idle etc.

I would either add cheap oil to your fill to see if the knocking or clattering subsides. If it does, then spend money on a good oil change. The lifters will make a racket until the oil comes up to temp and re-pressurizes them. Top end always loses oil pressure first in my experience with almost every engine type.

[Dynomite]

A minor leak is not a big concern, but these engines do use oil when you rev them out. If you can still see oil somewhere low on the dipstick, you probably still have a safe amount to at least start the car and idle etc.

I would either add cheap oil to your fill to see if the knocking or clattering subsides. If it does, then spend money on a good oil change. The lifters will make a racket until the oil comes up to temp and re-pressurizes them. Top end always loses oil pressure first in my experience with almost every engine type.

But....But...if he has contaminated oil...I guess I would first drain that old contaminated oil (and remove the old contaminated oil filter) and determine where that oil contamination is coming from before I run the engine on that old oil.....just saying ;)

[90ZR1#1221]

should this engine have a magnetic drain plug on it? I also don't know if it makes a difference but when I noticed the metal on the dipstick was right after I shut the car down. After it sat for a few hours and I looked at it again there was nothing on the dipstick but engine oil.

[mike100]

Used motor oil has all kinds of crap if you look at it under sunlight.

[mike100]

But....But...if he has contaminated oil...I guess I would first drain that old contaminated oil (and remove the old contaminated oil filter) and determine where that oil contamination is coming from before I run the engine on that old oil.....just saying ;)

I disagree. If there is catastrophic contamination, the engine is already done. That's why I would just drop $5 worth of oil in it to bring the level up. Run it a little to carry crap to the filter and THEN change oil if the condition improves.

[Dynomite]

I disagree. If there is catastrophic contamination, the engine is already done. That's why I would just drop $5 worth of oil in it to bring the level up. Run it a little to carry crap to the filter and THEN change oil if the condition improves.
Used motor oil has all kinds of crap if you look at it under sunlight.

:jawdrop:

:read2:

:p


:sign10:

[Franke]

You definately need to find out why the high crankcase pressure which may be forcing the dipstick out of its tube. High pressure will force oil up the cylinder walls among other things and eventually past the seals too. Really check the PCV sysytem well and also if the plenum was removed did they put the crankcase vent tubes back properly. This all could cause excessive oil consumption as well.

[90ZR1#1221]

so pretty much chances are this thing is going to have to come out and come apart to fix whatever is causing this issue and to make sure I don't lose an engine.

[A1990]

You might want to contact -=Jeff=- as this post indicates he had the same problem as you.

http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8561

[90ZR1#1221]

So drained the oil and cut the filter open. Both the engine oil and the filter were full of what I would say looks like brass. It's not magnetic however did find a few pieces of metal that stick to my magnet. Took an oil sample which will get sent out tomorrow to see exactly what types of metals I have in there. Till then it'll be sitting in my garage under the car cover till I figure out what my next move is. 2665

[Dynomite]

Geez.........I do not know what to say :dontknow:
Guess I would remove oil pan and take a look at lower end (engine in car).
Looks to me you are going to be pulling the engine.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite/d78729a3-5897-46ff-ba1c-f49718142eab.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Dynomite/d78729a3-5897-46ff-ba1c-f49718142eab.jpg.html)

[90ZR1#1221]

Refilled the oil. Ran it for about 45 minutes at idle. No knocks or ticks it sounded great. Let it cool down drained the oil pulled another sample to send to the lab. Still could see a lot of shine in the drained oil. Cut the filter again and it didn't look like much metal was caught in there this time. Now its time to sit on pins and needles awaiting the results of oil analysis. But yes regardless she's gotta come out and get tore down. Catastrophic failure or not something isn't right and something needs replaced. This lt5 is beyond me nor do I want to mess with an investment like a zr1 so I'm thinking mongoose motor sports is going to have take care of the one. I would compare what the motor oil looks like to transmission fluid when you change it. Except an engine doesn't have clutch packs and the oil shouldn't be as shiny.

[Kevin]

I'd offer to drive out and see if I could help, but I don't know all that much about working on these cars. Wish I could help, I really do. I also hope you get this figured out soon. So frustrating when you have a car that won't work the way you want

[A26B]

My reaction is the same as Dynomite's.

There's only two (not one) sources of copper and that's rod pin bushings & crank bearings. I would hope the "white" metal is babbit flakes rather than aluminum.

If it turns out to be bearing material, the saving grace is that the crank will probably be OK. The real question is why?

Considering the oil flow path, the crank is oiled from the inside-out and oil is filtered before going to any part of the engine, less & except the oil pump. So, it's very unlikely that any of the metallic debris, of a damaging size, could end up hurting anything else.

I have seen thrust bearings where the flange is nearly broken off. The way they were made with "no" radius where the flange is attached to the main bearing itself, is not so cool.

Please keep us posted on the findings. If you have to go into the engine, locating the cause is imperative.

[90ZR1#1221]

I was thinking main bearings/thrust washers. Ill get the pan dropped tomorrow and probably pull the air plenum and check the cam housings and valves stuff like that till I get the results of my oil analysis. Bright side is I think I caught this before any major damage was done to the engine. It's still an all original #'s matching car so if I ruined this engine it would kill me. Although still something doesn't make sense with only 30k miles on it. Maybe I should I contact GM and tell them I want some sort of special warranty policy on this lol

[batchman]

Maybe it's bronze, any bronze bushings in these?

Hmmm,
- Jeff

[90ZR1#1221]

Getting ready to drop the pan on this beast. Any tips for getting it off. Looks like maybe some oil cooler lines might need to be moved? Looks like pretty much all 10 and 12 mill bolts

[Dynomite]

Getting ready to drop the pan on this beast. Any tips for getting it off. Looks like maybe some oil cooler lines might need to be moved? Looks like pretty much all 10 and 12 mill bolts

Three 8mm bolt heads (6 mm bolts) in front and the rest 10 mm bolt heads (8 mm bolts).
The trick is getting to the three in front....remove the motor mount bolts and jack up the engine just a bit to remove those three bolts.

[90ZR1#1221]

It looks like the cross member those motor mounts ride on will unbolt and come out.... Or is that going to cause me more problems? Also where is a good place to put the jack to lift the engine up, is there any clearance issues? I found the problem to my oil leak too. The pan was probably missing five or six bolts.

[Dynomite]

It looks like the cross member those motor mounts ride on will unbolt and come out.... Or is that going to cause me more problems? Also where is a good place to put the jack to lift the engine up, is there any clearance issues? I found the problem to my oil leak too. The pan was probably missing five or six bolts.

Now that will cause an oil leak for sure....I have never heard of missing oil pan bolts before in that quantity. If that many missing, most of the rest must have been very loose.

Just get a short 2x4 and place between jack and oil pan. Jack up on oil pan. I never have removed those cross members but as I recall, others might have.

[rkreigh]

little 7 mm bolts up front are tough to get to. I unbolted the k member and was able to reach them, but jacking up the motor is a good idea and will make it a snap

[Dynomite]

little 7 mm bolts up front are tough to get to. I unbolted the k member and was able to reach them, but jacking up the motor is a good idea and will make it a snap

Me thinks on the front of the oil pan the bolts are 8 mm heads and 6 mm bolts......three on 90'-92' and four on 93'-95' .......but might be mistaken :p
The two Engines 90'-92' and 93'-95' take a different Oil Pan and Gasket (I think).

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maCRw1cuZy0kyxP1J_Fx0Dw.jpghttp://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m0G9F7gU4C46cO7HBdbCzMQ.jpg

Jerry's New Oil pan gaskets (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=83260)
Note Jerry's Part #10106189 Seal, for use with the 90'-92' gasket Oil Pump Suction Tube (o-ring) (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=29)
Later Motor has NO Pickup Tube "O" Ring (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=83258)

[90ZR1#1221]

Well I brought my old oil filter in to work today (I sell construction equipment) had one of the mechanics look at and apparently all the crap in the filter was paint from the hacksaw blade I used to cut the filter open with... Rookie mistake I know. But there was no metal in the media itself. I had them use a filter cutter to cut open the other filter I put on it to flush the engine and once again there was no metal. I just got to get those last three little bolts out and the pan will be ready to come off but the guys in my shop just think I'm being overly dramatic.

[Dynomite]

Well I brought my old oil filter in to work today (I sell construction equipment) had one of the mechanics look at and apparently all the crap in the filter was paint from the hacksaw blade I used to cut the filter open with... Rookie mistake I know. But there was no metal in the media itself. I had them use a filter cutter to cut open the other filter I put on it to flush the engine and once again there was no metal. I just got to get those last three little bolts out and the pan will be ready to come off but the guys in my shop just think I'm being overly dramatic.

:sign10:

That is extremely good news...but does not explain what you seen on dipstick and in oil you drained quite yet unless that is the "Overly Dramatic" Part ;)


Shut the car off and checked the engine oil which I do religiously. Upon inspection it was low. Very low. I also saw what I thought at first glance was bubbles but upon further inspection was shiny bits of metal. Put a magnet to it, it's not magnetic. Now I know the engine is going to wear and there will be metal in the oil but enough that it shows up on the dipstick?

So drained the oil and cut the filter open. Both the engine oil and the filter were full of what I would say looks like brass. It's not magnetic however did find a few pieces of metal that stick to my magnet. Took an oil sample which will get sent out tomorrow to see exactly what types of metals I have in there. Till then it'll be sitting in my garage under the car cover till I figure out what my next move is.

Or....Maybe we did not understand that the oil was actually clear when you drained the oil and what you seen on the dipstick was in fact bubbles ;)

But then again...you did say your oil pan bolts had dropped out....almost half of the fourteen 8mm bolts :jawdrop:
I found the problem to my oil leak too. The pan was probably missing five or six bolts.

[mike100]

So it sounds like the engine got low on oil and the lifters got noisy. Should be ok.

My earlier comment about looking at dirty motor oil in good light still holds- there's all kinds of micro particles that may or may not mean anything.

[90ZR1#1221]

Got the pan out and well there's nothing unusual. Just a lot of dirt. Between the heat shields, jacking the motor up and everything else I can already see that it's going to be twice as much fun to put it back in the car. So if anyone has tips to get it back in it would be greatly appreciated. And note to self I need to go buy 1/4" swivels

[Dynomite]

Got the pan out and well there's nothing unusual. Just a lot of dirt. Between the heat shields, jacking the motor up and everything else I can already see that it's going to be twice as much fun to put it back in the car. So if anyone has tips to get it back in it would be greatly appreciated. And note to self I need to go buy 1/4" swivels

I use a bit (small bit) of Permatex Super "300" Form A Gasket on both sides of the oil pan gasket where oil is involved (making sure all surfaces are dry before using the Permatex) ;)

Jerry's pan gasket for the 90'-92' requires a new "O" ring which is the same diameter but thicker for the oil pick up. Just make sure you keep that "O" ring in place as you position the oil pan with new gasket.

I use Blue Loctite on ALL Oil Pan Bolts.
:cheers:

Installing New Oil Pan Gasket (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=83250)

[Kevin]

hope you get it back together soon. hope to see you out and about

[90ZR1#1221]

Would you recommend getting two gaskets since its my first time putting the pan back in? In case I mess one up. Also does anyone make a pan bolt kit cuz I just want to put all new pan bolts back in the car. And is there a torque spec for the pan bolts?

[Dynomite]

Would you recommend getting two gaskets since its my first time putting the pan back in? In case I mess one up. Also does anyone make a pan bolt kit cuz I just want to put all new pan bolts back in the car. And is there a torque spec for the pan bolts?

One gasket is enough......I think :D

On Jerry's page you have the Oil Pan Gasket Installation Guide, Oil Pan Gasket for 90', Oil Pump Suction Pipe "O" Ring.

Jerry's Oil Pan Gasket and Associated (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&zenid=3f4c33b25a224bab80a42076a072bcb3&keyword=oil+pan+gasket)

Typically.......6 mm bolts go 89 in-lbs (three in front of Oil Pan)
Typically.......8 mm bolts go 19 ft-lbs (fourteen in rear of Oil Pan)

Clean ALL Oil Pan Bolt Holes with cue tip and gas or something similar. Use Blue Loctite (242) on ALL Oil Pan Bolts. As you already know, I use thin coat of Permatex on both sides of the oil pan gasket.

The TRICK is balancing that "O" ring in place while keeping the gasket in place at the same time you start and snug up one 8mm bolt on each side of the oil pan. After that.....you are home free ;)

Here are the 8mm oil pan bolts (ten) except those two on each side which are studs that hold the exhaust shields. And except the three front 6 mm bolts. Jerry's oil pan bolts (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=304)

You need Four Heat Shield Oil Pan Studs/Bolts (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=303)

You need Four Heat Shield Nuts (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=150)

For your 90' you need Three Oil Pan Front Three 6 mm Bolts (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=240)

Shut the car off and checked the engine oil which I do religiously. Upon inspection it was low. Very low. After I let it sit again for a few hours and looked at it when I pulled the dipstick the oil barely reads up the dipstick.

On a 91' You would have seen a Low Oil Level Indicator on your readout above the radio when you first start the engine. The Oil Level Sensor was not used on a 90' unfortunately for you.

I am still looking for an LT5 Oil Level Sensor as Jerry does not stock those as far as I can tell ;)

[A26B]

Dynomite aka Mr. Solutions: Thank you for the referral!! I will see if I can find the LT5 Oil Level Sensors!!

90ZR1#1221: Here's a link list for the items you might want to obtain. I don't think there is any need to buy all new bolts, only the ones you need.

Front Pan Bolts, 6mm
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=240

Side & Rear Pan Bolts
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=304

Pan Studs
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=303

Loctite 243 for Pan Bolts (Exterior) & Pan Baffle Bolts (interior)
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28&products_id=591

Pan Gasket with Seal
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=16

Cleaner for gasket surfaces, tapped bolt holes, bolts and general purpose cleaner.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/CRC-Brake-cleaner/_/N-25h0?itemIdentifier=119712_0_0_

Oil Pan Gasket Installation Guide
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=732

[scottfab]

Would you recommend getting two gaskets since its my first time putting the pan back in? In case I mess one up. Also does anyone make a pan bolt kit cuz I just want to put all new pan bolts back in the car. And is there a torque spec for the pan bolts?

You can find all of the oil pan bolts at an ACE hardware store.
The torque specs are on page 6A2-88.
Oil Pan to Crankcase Bolt is 20ft/lb.

[Dynomite]

Jerry my man.......those were Left Clickable Links in RED I call them Descriptive Links.
Anything underlined and especially in Bold Red is left Clickable ;)
That is my story and I am sticking to it.

Oh...and I might add....when you buy from Jerry expect the most professional Packaging of Gaskets and expect two day delivery...Maybe three day if post lady is lazy.

And that Post above is referenced in Solutions (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=148378[/URL) under the Heading ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
New Oil Pan Gasket and Bolts (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=182284)

Dynomite aka Mr. Solutions: Thank you for the referral!! I will see if I can find the LT5 Oil Level Sensors!!



Jerry....I looked at your NEW 90' oil pan and that is how I found out I do not have an Oil Level Sensor on my 90'.......and that was a great description of that issue associated with the Oil Level Sensor NOT in production untill 1991 New 1990 Oil Pan (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=709)

The Oil Pan for 1990, 91 & 92 are interchangable with the only difference being, the 1990 LT5 engine was not equipped with a Low Oil Level Sensor. The extra material was cast into the pan but not machined for the screw-in sensor. As such, the oil level indicator would not be functional if the 1990 oil pan is used for 1991 & 1992 applications

First two photos are of a Brass Oil Level Sensor threaded Connecter and the last three photos are of a Plastic Oil Level Sensor threaded Connector.

Brass Oil Level Sensor 93'-95' Jerrys Brass Oil Level Sensor 93' to 95' (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/sensor-oil-level-93-95-7b5/)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/400x300-1/80-a5937e4f_cdc5_4385_adbb_90a5f78326c7_1__929eb6b5b8 74adfabab3af47aa57cdff0763a056.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/400x300-1/80-oil_sensor_3_f9f4aa0322b95bd18c4cb2d9f1504a8ea3d16 1dd.jpg

Plastic oil Level Sensor 91'-92' Summit Racing Oil Level Sensor (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-fls63)
Jerrys Plastic Oil Level Sensor (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/sensor-oil-level-91-92-1g2/)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/400x300-1/80-oil_sensor_4_010e7e27b02eb79e26946950044b45d870e20 918.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/400x300-1/80-oil_sensor_5d3997a8709f14cf28fd8f51cb193c0233004e4 a.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/400x300-1/80-oil_sensor_5_62cc830cca2f2f5969d01bccbb787880865bc 748.jpg

I learn something every day

Jerry.....there is an identical Solutions on two web sites just for your information and both updated continuously

[A26B]

Jerry my man.......those were Left Clickable Links in RED :D I call them Descriptive Links :p
Anything underlined and especially in Bold Red is left Clickable ;)
That is my story and I am sticking to it..............
My Bad.. I'm accustomed to web links being in blue with underline. I'll know better next time. :-)

I learn something every day :handshak:
me too!!

Jerry.....there is an identical Solutions on two web sites just for your information and both updated continuously :eusa_shhh

I think I've seen that. :cheers:

[scottfab]

My Bad.. I'm accustomed to web links being in blue with underline. I'll know better next time. :-)

....snip....

you would be correct. Conventionally links are in fact blue (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvUQcnfwUUM)and underlined (http://nemesis.lonestar.org/reference/internet/web/color/charts/red_01.html).

[Dynomite]

My ZR-1s are not conventional either :D
Nor are they kludged :sign10:

Now back to the Oil Contamination. I guess there is NO contamination after all (and by extension....no adverse engine wear)?

If So.......great....and it is good that got attention in any event with all those bolts missing in the Oil Pan :thumbsup:

[scottfab]

you would be correct. Conventionally links are in fact blue (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvUQcnfwUUM)and underlined (http://nemesis.lonestar.org/reference/internet/web/color/charts/red_01.html).


What? No one noticed those were actually links?
Here is one "in a somewhat different and irritating color (http://www.briancragin.com/media/images/roll_install.jpg)".

The particles left after cutting the filter opened looked like
pieces of paper from the filter. :p

[Dynomite]

Since you have the oil pan removed.
1. Remove the baffle.
2. Remove the oil pick up.
3. Check bottom of oil pan for those contaminants you think you might have.
4. Clean oil pan.
5. Reinstall oil pick up and baffle using RED Loctite 262.

[90ZR1#1221]

I removed the baffle and the pick up tube. Cleaned everything up real good. There was nothing out of the ordinary in the pan. Just a lot of dirt, no chunks of metal. I inspected the bottom of the engine and everything looked ok. I didn't see any bluing or signs that there may be damage from friction due to low oil. Ordered my parts Saturday from Jerry and now I'm waiting for those to arrive so I can get her back together. It only took two days to get the pan out so I'm sure it'll take me four days to put back in lol.

[Dynomite]

Lol. Good for you. Sounds like you got the destroyed engine un-destroyed. Lol

[90ZR1#1221]

And I'll have my oil leak fixed and the underside of the car all cleaned up. It was huge relief to see everything looked ok. And now I can get back to the crankcase pressure issue and put on a new PCV valve and hopefully that'll take care of that. So on that note I'm in search of an original bose head unit for the car and an original set of wheels for the car too. If anyone knows where I might be able to find those.

[Kevin]

does your car have an aftermarket unit or does the stock one not work? if it's not working send it to dr. dons http://www.doctordons.com/ or see if marc haibeck does them. not sure if marc does or not.

[90ZR1#1221]

It has an aftermarket unit in it. I contacted the guy who installed the aftermarket unit and pulled the original out. He said it's in his barn somewhere which is a 40x100 pole barn full of stuff soooo finding it might be difficult.

[Kevin]

It has an aftermarket unit in it. I contacted the guy who installed the aftermarket unit and pulled the original out. He said it's in his barn somewhere which is a 40x100 pole barn full of stuff soooo finding it might be difficult.

Ron and I were talking with steve's corette parts out of staten island at carlise and I think they had some radios for the early cars. I tried their site stevescorvetteparts.net and it seems to be down, but it does have a phone number 374-217-0362

[Dynomite]

I use AMSOIL 10W 40 but others have their own Preference ;)
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/AMSOIL10W-40oil_zps1b85b817.jpg

[Blownrunner]

I think that removing the oil pan, baffle, pick-up tube, cleaning everything up and getting all the junk removed , and ops check the low oil sensor would be great preventative maintenance. Love to see pictures on this. How do you support the engine and remove the pan if you raise the engine with a 2x4 under the pan? How do you support it?

Thanks.

[90ZR1#1221]

I just lifted the engine to get all bolts out of the front of the pan. Then lowered it back down and removed the heat shields from around the converters, removed the last four studs and had to wiggle the pan to get it out. But it came out relatively easy. I think I spent more time searching around for tools then actually getting the pan out.

[90ZR1#1221]

Well pan gasket number one was a failure. It still leaks. Going to recheck I torqued everything correctly then go from there. At least everything is clean and it should only take about an hour to get it all apart.

[Dynomite]

Well pan gasket number one was a failure. It still leaks. Going to recheck I torqued everything correctly then go from there. At least everything is clean and it should only take about an hour to get it all apart.

What exactly happened? Gasket slip or break?
When you have everything in place and bolts in place with some snugged up, you can see the gasket between pan and block....visibly make sure the gasket is at the edge of the pan as you torque the bolts ALL AROUND AND EVEN. If the gasket starts moving on you....suspect oil or something on gasket.

[90ZR1#1221]

It's leaking from the front so I'm thinking either the gasket moved a bit or I over/under torqued those little bolts. I torqued everything in sequence according to the manual.

[Dynomite]

It's leaking from the front so I'm thinking either the gasket moved a bit or I over/under torqued those little bolts. I torqued everything in sequence according to the manual.

Those three little bolts on front take less torque.....but you know that.

If you used anything on the gasket it is best to let it get real tacky (almost dry) so the gasket does not slip around.

Do NOT forget the "O" ring on the Oil Pickup (Oil Pump Suction Pipe Seal).

Keep an eye on the gasket as you tighten bolts to make sure it stays even with the outer edge of the oil pan/block.

[scottfab]

Well pan gasket number one was a failure. It still leaks. Going to recheck I torqued everything correctly then go from there. At least everything is clean and it should only take about an hour to get it all apart.

And you are absolutely sure it's coming from the gasket?
The reason I ask is sometimes you can end up chasing your
tail on such things. There a are some well known sources
of leakage at the front of the engine on the passenger side.
They end up dribbling along side the engine almost invisibly
until the reach the pan. Just food for thought.

[SteelBlueZR1]

Read this from Haibeck on finding and fixing oil leaks on LT5.
http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Finding%20and%20Fixing%20Oil%20leaks%20on%20the%20 LT5.pdf

[Dynomite]

The OPRV Cover Plate Oil Leak looks like front of oil pan leak and is hard to diagnose.

OPRV (Oil Pressure Regulating Valve cover plate )......It will appear that the oil pan front bolts are loose and leaking at gasket.

Potential Oil Leaks and the OPRV Cover Plate (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1581302471)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite/84b14ee2-b643-4c69-a2a9-de0d92b58a67.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Dynomite/84b14ee2-b643-4c69-a2a9-de0d92b58a67.jpg.html)

[90ZR1#1221]

I finally got around to putting pan gasket #2 on this beast. Had a helping hand this time too which was nice. Got her out for about 10 miles yesterday then today really put it through her paces. Oil pressure was good, everything was good and after today's drive for about 40 miles the permagrin is back on my face and the under side of the car is completely dry. So now I'll have about another month or so I can drive her before the winter weather rolls in and then I'll get to that crankcase pressure issue and check my pcv.

[Dynomite]

Good for you :thumbsup:

Check the oil pan bolts once in a while just in case :p

[Kevin]

pittsburgh cars and coffee is saturday if you want to put some shake down miles on her

[scottfab]

I finally got around to putting pan gasket #2 on this beast. Had a helping hand this time too which was nice. Got her out for about 10 miles yesterday then today really put it through her paces. Oil pressure was good, everything was good and after today's drive for about 40 miles the permagrin is back on my face and the under side of the car is completely dry. So now I'll have about another month or so I can drive her before the winter weather rolls in and then I'll get to that crankcase pressure issue and check my pcv.

I bet you nailed it.
Make sure to get out and inspect her after she's sat for a bit. In the unlikely event that the leak is not quite completely gone, spotting it on a nice clean engine is easier.
I've got a really really really tiny leak coming from what was apparently a tiny rock hitting the small oil cooler at the bottom of the radiator stack. In my case it was easy to spot when all was clean.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i60/clpotter/ZR1engine.jpg

[Cal55]

Nice clean engine Scott, I wish mine looked that good. One of these days!
Joe

[scottfab]

Nice clean engine Scott, I wish mine looked that good. One of these days!
Joe

Saw you post then noticed, hey that's not my engine. I grabbed the wrong pic. Anyway, Mine closely resembles that one. All systems functional and intact on the LT5. It's a thing of beauty without alterations. Not that there is anything at all wrong with alterations.
Still people that see the engine stop and stair for a bit. It's a work of art even 24yrs after it's birth
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/images/smilies/steering.gif

[Dynomite]

Concur....there is nothing wrong with alterations :thumbsup:

At All ;)

Dynomite's 1991 LT5
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/LT5/Blingzz.jpg

Dynomite's 1990 LT5
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/A%20Corvette%20LT5%2090/f1e67ee1-dca6-4b7e-b799-feb1ba5026d5.jpg

Concur Also......there is nothing wrong with Colored Bold Text........it helps identify Key Features :handshak:

[scottfab]

It's all about respect I think. Here we go again.
Beware of trolls.
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/images/smilies/troll.gif