Alternator R/R-Gaskets

[ZR1HOTC4]

Looks like I have the flickering lights, bouncing amp meter gauge syndrome. I did a test on the alternator and it appears to be bad. I just R/R'ed the plenum for a tuneup and replacement of some bad injectors. The plenum has been on only one week. Would I need to get new plenum gaskets, again? or can I carefully lift the plenum, do the alternator swap and reuse the gaskets? Any recommendations on Alternators or should I try to rebuild it and the voltage regulator?
Thanks, Dave

[We Gone]

I changed the one on the 90 I used to have and only removed the horn from the front of the TB

[Bill]

Mine quit while on a cross country trip. Like We Gone the mechanic was able to replace it by removing the front section. Be careful there is a gasket there also.
Good Luck

[ZR1HOTC4]

I just took the air horn off (carefully), took the bolts out of both brackets and removed them completely from the engine. Then came the oil sensor. It has to be removed with an extra long 27mm socket. The correct tool would make it a snap, but some channel locks were just enough to loosen it to take it out by hand. Disconnected all the wiring and out it came from the front. Thanks for the suggestions. :worship: I hope this fixes the flickering and the bouncing voltmeter. :pray We shall see!

[ZR1HOTC4]

Ok, had the alternator bench tested and it tested GOOD. Great, now I'm an expert at alternator R/R. :o So, to add to the indications... the flickering lights are now not flickering - they are out completely. When the ignition switch is turned ON the system goes through it's preparatory sequence and the dash instruments are bright as usual, but when they are suppose to go to the dim normal intensity after the sequence they all go out! :icon_scra The car does run. Am I now looking for the elusive Body Control Module or Central Control Module as its listed in the manual? Hummmmm... Suggestions. Thanks Dave

[Bill]

Are you noticing the problem while in the garage? This got my attention also, it was the ambient light in the garage was to low. Does the dash light up when you turn the head lights on? If so try this, With the head lights off shine a flash light into the light sensor. On my ’90 it is just to the left of the words “trip monitor” on the IP. I hope this is all it is.
Good Luck

[Jeffvette]

Check the positive post that sits behind the battery for the interior power. It tends to get all gummed up after a while. Clean it all up and sand the connectos a bit and install with some dielctic grease.

The other thing to do is to check the dash light intensity switch with some resistors.

[ZR1HOTC4]

The "new" alternator is in - car runs great - but the dash lights are "out" unless I turn on the park lamps. Then I can see what's going on. The battery is at 12 volts - engine not running and 14.2 engine running - the alternator works and is stable. That was last night.

This morning I went out to the shop to check the CCM codes using the ALDL connector jumping the A & G terminals to see if I could pin point a problem in the display circuitry. When I opened the car door (key was in the ignition) the interior lights illuminated (normal) the chime started going "Off" and I mean off crazy and the dash light circuit began to cycle with the park lights and they were all flashing together. Once I closed the door and the interior lights went out the chiming and light flashes went out. I was able to check codes -the only one present is the C12 thats expected since it entered the troubleshooting mode. Pretty weird situation and I'm sure there is a gremlin in there somewhere. Can someone shed some light on this?

I'm really getting to know this car - I think it's alive!

Thanks Dave

[ZR1HOTC4]

You're all gonna love this... It was my afermarket alarm system going nuts because one of the chirp alarm wires was disconnected. It indicated a intrusion alarm (Zone 3 - hardware fault) and whenever the door opened and the door ajar sensor activated - it would go into a three flash routine indicating the systems integrety was violated. So much for that problem.

As for the panel lights - I opened the garage door and let some "real" light into the shop and they worked perfectly. They are not flickeing as before since the alternator is replaced.

Those that responded - you were are right on target. My shop is very bright with some super bright flourecesent lighting - almost hospital operating room quality. Amazing, the sensor probably thought it was so bright the back lit dash didn't need to come one.

Now to tackle the CD changer not working... Here we go again...

Thanks Dave