Removing aftermarket alarm system

[ghlkal]

What a PITA. When I bought the Z last year, some PO had installed an aftermarket alarm system. It’s a Merlon MEAL-330 Vehicle Security System. I searched long and hard but could never find any documentation.

I decided to finally bite the bullet and rip it out. Of course, you can’t just rip wires out as you have to reconnect the cut wires, etc. I removed the seat to make lying upside down under the dash easier and starting tracing everything and removing all the connections.

Here’s only part of the mess.
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u331/NaturalCowgirl/ZR-1/ZR1alarm3196_zpsa26d83f4.jpg
There were at least 6 relays in this system along with push button switches, lights, and lots and lots of wire. I thought it might take me days, but it “only” took the better part of a day. I was dreading doing it, but it turned out OK.

One interesting point is that it had a starter interrupt, which makes sense for an alarm (I guess). The big yellow wire in the IP bundle “controls” the starter. I was experiencing an occasional no start, and I wonder if this could be part of the problem. At the same time, I bypassed my clutch interlock switch. I haven’t had a single case of no start and I’ve started the Z dozens of times over the past week. Now, I plan on reconnecting the clutch switch and see which (alarm or clutch) was the problem.

I spliced two wires that I have no idea what they controlled. At the far left edge there is a bundle. The two cut wires were Blue and Black-with-White-stripe. Does anyone know what they are for? I couldn’t find a section in the FSM that identified wire bundles, which would have been handy.

Also, I’ve never heard a key-in-ignition buzzer/chime. I thought maybe the alarm was disabling it. Perhaps this had nothing to do with the alarm system in place since I don’t hear any now with the key in the ignition and the door open. Can anyone tell me about the wiring for the buzzer/chime?

I like to solder wires back together, but it sure is hard under the dash. I came across these (after the job) – “connectors” with a solder joint and heat shrink tubing.
http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/fusion_solder_heat_shrink/fusion_solder_heat_shrink.html (http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/fusion_solder_heat_shrink/fusion_solder_heat_shrink.html)
They look interesting. Does anyone have any experience with these?

[Franke]

Ghlkal, I have used these in the past in my electronics careers. Follow the instructions completely...
"For best results: Use a heat device capable of 500 °F. When using an open flame, do not isolate flame on one area of the tubing. Distribute the heat evenly. Failure to heat the connector until the solder is melted will result in an inferior connection. Overheating the connector may cause damage to the tubing. The use of an liquid flux is recommended, especially with used wire."
If you apply too much heat (overheating) the tubing will shrink and then split so practice a little until you gain the experience/confidence needed. Do use a liquid flux which will help guarantee a good solder connection as it will clean the copper for a good solder bond. I used a heat shrink gun (distribute the heat evenly) as a flame tends to discolor the connection tubing.
Usually the Blk/wht is a ground connection but not always. you can verify with a voltohm meter. Key in ignition troubleshooting chart on page 8a-76-1 and -4 may help with chime problem. Be careful under the dash as you have an airbag that could be sensitive to any kind of static discharge.