About to start header install just wanted some input and had a few questions...

[5ABI VT]

Had a few questions..

1. Would header install be easier without the trans and bell housing there? I plan to do clutch and the flywheel and was wondering if I should just do both at the same time.

2. Do the cats need to be unbolted from the manifolds? I'm guessing they will be siezed on and may require an exhaust shoppe to cut/loosen them? If so Ill plan to get to a shoppe to loosen those bolt before I get started.

2. I couldn't find much on the dipstick tube. With the 2" SW headers I believe ill need to bend the tube for fitment? I just saw today from googling that Jerry's gaskets has a dipstick tube seal that I may need.. Will I need one?

3. I got the headers with the air delete. Is there any info out there on what exactly gets removed to remove the whole system? Or is it fairly obvious ? I know the pump is up front etc but not sure exactly what the entire system looks like it where it connects to.

I'm going to get a hoist installed soon in my garage .. I was going to wait to do the clutch flywheel then but I'm impatient and want these headers on asap so I don't mind doing these on my back if its possible. I just wanted to clear up anything I had on my mind before I started.

[Dynomite]

Had a few questions..

1. Would header install be easier without the trans and bell housing there? I plan to do clutch and the flywheel and was wondering if I should just do both at the same time. Not Really except with Trans removed you can lower the rear of engine a bit. See Link #1 below

2. Do the cats need to be unbolted from the manifolds? I'm guessing they will be siezed on and may require an exhaust shoppe to cut/loosen them? If so Ill plan to get to a shoppe to loosen those bolt before I get started. Are not original CATS welded up?

2. I couldn't find much on the dipstick tube. With the 2" SW headers I believe ill need to bend the tube for fitment? Yes that is possible but Paul Workman makes a clamp for that. See Link # 2 below I just saw today from googling that Jerry's gaskets has a dipstick tube seal that I may need.. Will I need one? Yes and No......if you are there it is nice to replace tube seal as well as Header Gasket from Jerry's

3. I got the headers with the air delete. Is there any info out there on what exactly gets removed to remove the whole system? See Photo and Item #5 of Link #3 below Or is it fairly obvious ? I know the pump is up front etc but not sure exactly what the entire system looks like it where it connects to.

I'm going to get a hoist installed soon in my garage .. I was going to wait to do the clutch flywheel With SW Exhaust installed you will have to remove that rear section of SW Exhaust to do Clutch and Flywheel but not the SW Headers. then but I'm impatient and want these headers on asap so I don't mind doing these on my back if its possible. I just wanted to clear up anything I had on my mind before I started.

1. Exhaust System Replace with Headers (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564059)

2. Dip stick bracket (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=78327 )

3. Tech Info - LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Eliminated Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/A%20Corvette%20LT5%2091/AirInduction.png




:cheers:

[Lucky90]

I think dyno knows more about these cars, than the people who built them.

[mike100]

I had to raise the engine off of the motor mounts to get the manifolds off. The headers fit so much easier, but still it helps to be able to raise and lower the engine an inch just to make a few of the fasteners easier to reach from the top of the engine bay.

The trans didn't really much matter.

[Lucky90]

Not to hyjack this thread, but how much hp ,do they claim headers to be worth?

[mike100]

I only had to remove the catalyst heat shield, not the manifold halves. The air injection tubing is obvious. you will see how to pull it off once the pipes are dropped off the engine and out of the way. The front bolts near the power steering pump were looking impossible, but if you jack up the engine as far as it will go without cracking the wiper motor box, you should be able to get in there with a box wrench or a curved s-wrench type of tool (one of my favorites for getting around round obstructions).

[mike100]

Not to hyjack this thread, but how much hp ,do they claim headers to be worth?

Marc H claims +15 lb/ft of torque and +25hp (rwhp I think). maybe more with supporting mods. It certainly adds across the rpm range. Even going up from a 1-7/8 stock primary pipe diameter to the typical 2" pipe on aftermarket headers, there was no torque loss- it's all upside on the power delivery. And it is over a nice wide range too.

The car will get a little louder though.

[We Gone]

I remover the inner fender liners helped quite a bit to get to the bolts.

[Dynomite]

I have had great luck with Stage 8 Header bolts. They are easy to install especially with a flex head ratchet wrench as well as an Allen Wrench (the Stage 8 bolts have an Allen socket. The locks are a bit tricky on a couple of header bolts but overall easy to install. I do NOT torque the Header bolts but just tighten by feel (not too tight) since I am using Stage 8 Header Bolts with locks :thumbsup:

L98 and LT5 Exhaust System Header Bolts (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564063)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/Headerbolts.jpg

Now if you drop stuff....here is the tool.

A 16 inch straight Hemostat (Ebay has many). On the Ebay Search....just type in Hemostat and the length you would like and also type in Curved or Straight (Hemostat 16 straight for this one). The beauty in addition to being sleek to reach tight spaces is that it can be locked (ratched locked) once you get hold of what you dropped.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Maintenance/eba212e4-8546-4b1c-a556-bf9c4abf5647.jpg

Particularily useful for Stainless steel and Aluminum Nuts, Bolts and Washers :thumbsup:

[Paul Workman]

Had a few questions..

1. Would header install be easier without the trans and bell housing there? I plan to do clutch and the flywheel and was wondering if I should just do both at the same time.

2. Do the cats need to be unbolted from the manifolds? I'm guessing they will be siezed on and may require an exhaust shoppe to cut/loosen them? If so Ill plan to get to a shoppe to loosen those bolt before I get started.

2. I couldn't find much on the dipstick tube. With the 2" SW headers I believe ill need to bend the tube for fitment? I just saw today from googling that Jerry's gaskets has a dipstick tube seal that I may need.. Will I need one?
3. I got the headers with the air delete. Is there any info out there on what exactly gets removed to remove the whole system? Or is it fairly obvious ? I know the pump is up front etc but not sure exactly what the entire system looks like it where it connects to.

I'm going to get a hoist installed soon in my garage .. I was going to wait to do the clutch flywheel then but I'm impatient and want these headers on asap so I don't mind doing these on my back if its possible. I just wanted to clear up anything I had on my mind before I started.

I can help with the dipstick issue. I built a custom bracket to facilitate the installation of the SW headers, and tho I'm not in the business, per se' to built them for sale, I will build some for youz guyz that have bought the headers and don't want to make your own.

Maybe I should post a poll and see how many of y'all want one? (One guy expressed interest in buying one, but after I sent him a photo of it...that was the last I heard from him. I figured he made is own, I guess. But, now as result, I happen to have the makings for several more now, thanks to him.)

P.

[5ABI VT]

Appreciate all the input!!

1. From what I can see the cats have 3 bolts connecting them to the manifolds? Ill try without them removed I'm hoping they don't need to be.

2. Does the motor need to be raised up or does it just make things easier? Are the mounts the same or similar to an ltx?

3. What size are the Oem bolts on the manifolds ? I have a few flex head tools maybe I should grab a few more before I start :/

I'll buy one invoice me psychowette@hotmail.com


One of my peeves is just getting started on a job and getting stuck in the middle which is why I like to ask before I start :). I'm debating on going to Carlisle Friday morning so I was looking to start the hesders tonight and finish before then. I just didn't want to be halfway through and need a special tool or something because I like to work during the wee hours of the night / morning and all stores are obviously closed. I don't really care to leave the car on stands for a few days because I'm waiting for my wheel barrels anyways as well as the chip to arrive.

I'm going to start anyways because I can't stand staring at the headers on the floor. Sometimes I need a kick in the butt to get started. I just can't wait to hear the car with these on with the Corsas !!

I believe SW advertises these as 40+ hp?

[Dynomite]

Appreciate all the input!!
1. From what I can see the cats have 3 bolts connecting them to the manifolds? Ill try without them removed I'm hoping they don't need to be. 3 bolts connecting them to the exhaust toward the rear?
2. Does the motor need to be raised up or does it just make things easier? Are the mounts the same or similar to an ltx? I did it just a couple weeks ago without raising the motor or disconnecting the C-Frame.
3. What size are the Oem bolts on the manifolds ? 10 mm

One of my peeves is just getting started on a job and getting stuck in the middle which is why I like to ask before I start. I'm debating on going to Carlisle Friday morning so I was looking to start the hesders tonight and finish before then. I just didn't want to be halfway through and need a special tool or something because I like to work during the wee hours of the night / morning and all stores are obviously closed. I don't really care to leave the car on stands for a few days because I'm waiting for my wheel barrels anyways as well as the chip to arrive.

I'm going to start anyways because I can't stand staring at the headers on the floor. Sometimes I need a kick in the butt to get started. I just can't wait to hear the car with these on with the Corsas !!

I believe SW advertises these as 40+ hp?

You need two new exhaust manifold gaskets and maybe a dipstick tube seal.
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=38)
Dipstick Tube Seal (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=40)

And Maybe Stage 8 Header Bolts.
LT5 Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-8905/) 8905 LT5 8mm x 1.25 The underhead length is 25 mm or about .98 inches

1. Remove REAR innner wheel panels (Drivers side and Passenger side) first.
...a. Two Torx T15 to rear louvered side panel.
...b. Three Torx T27 to rear louvered side panel.
...c. Four 10mm bolts in vertical line attached to center panel.
...d. One 10 mm bolt under rear wheel panel attached to frame.
...e. Two 10 mm bolts lower rear attached to rear frame.
...f. Two 7 mm bolts along top edge drivers side of rear wheel panel attaching secondary injector module.
2. Remove 10 mm bolt that holds dipstick tube to manifold.
3. Remove Dipstick Tube. (plug dip stick tube hole temporarily)
4. Loosen exhaust connecting flanges just to the rear of the CATS (three bolts each) Use some WD40 to start with on all bolts.
5. Leave the CATS connected to the Exhaust Manifolds.
6. Remove Two Hanger bolts (Trans and Differential). Leave hangers in place.
7. Remove rear "L" Hanger on Stock Mufflers and drop mufflers a few inches supporting mufflers on blocks.
8. Finish removing 3 bolts from connecting flanges (step #4 above) and drop exhaust system to floor (drag out to rear).
9. Remove exhaust manifold tin heat isolation covers.
10. Remove Air Induction main tubes and rest of Air Induction system including pump.
...a. Associated with the Air Injection system is one vacuum line on the drivers side fender skirt above the shock tower.
...b. I eliminated the "T" and just moved the "Y" in front of "T" about 3 inches and plugged the "Y" back in where the "T" was.
11. Remove (I think 13 mm) nut on stud (stud may come out) in center lower of each Exhaust Manifold (90's - 92's only).
12. Remove exhaust manifold bolts (10mm) using various 3/8 inch socket extensions, universals, and flex head ratchet wrench.
Do NOT slip wrenches on the 10mm hex head of the exhaust manifold bolts when you try to first loosen them jimming the hex in any way!!!
13. Drop Stock Exhaust Manifolds with CATS to floor and slide out to side.
...a. Leave the CATS connected to the manifolds.
14. Remove old Exhaust Manifold Gaskets and clean exhaust surfaces on block.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/ZR1Exhaust.jpg

I use the wobble extensions on almost everything. The wobble extensions are in first picture and flex ratchet combination wrenches in second picture.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/wobbleextension2.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/flexmetricratchet.jpg

You will notice what allows the wobble. A 3/8 inch universal in the second picture.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/Wobbleextension.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/Universaladapter.jpg

There are all sorts of socket combinations you can get but these four tools/tool sets will get er done assuming you have a good 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch socket wrench and set of metric sockets. The BIG problem in removing the exhaust manifold is getting wrenches in such a small space. I actually use 1/4 inch socket, 1/4 inch socket extensions, 1/4 inch socket wrench, and 1/4 inch universal as the 1/4 inch are much easier to work in tight areas. When you get to installing Headers....I sometimes use two universals and two extensions with one 1/4 inch ratchet wrench with Stage 8 Header bolts (it actually works).

Post 87 - Installing Headers and Exhaust (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-5.html#post1581825195)
Post 45 - Exhaust System Replace with Headers (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564059)

Now if you drop stuff....here is the tool.

A 16 inch straight Hemostat (Ebay has many). On the Ebay Search....just type in Hemostat and the length you would like and also type in Curved or Straight (Hemostat 16 straight for this one). The beauty in addition to being sleek to reach tight spaces is that it can be locked (ratched locked) once you get hold of what you dropped.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Maintenance/eba212e4-8546-4b1c-a556-bf9c4abf5647.jpg

Particularily useful for Stainless steel and Aluminum Nuts, Bolts and Washers.

[5ABI VT]

Thank you so much :) the exhaust is easy I just did the corsa , beam plates and hurst shifter about a week ago. I will get started and pickup some swivel tools tomorrow on the way from work and stop tonight as soon as I get stuck with what I have.

Here's a photo of the Manifolds I'm talking about the bolts on the engine side of the cats. I'd imagine they're probably rusted together by now.. But doesn't sound like they'll need to come off.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps73f521d5.jpg

[Dynomite]

Thank you so much :) the exhaust is easy I just did the corsa , beam plates and hurst shifter about a week ago. I will get started and pickup some swivel tools tomorrow on the way from work and stop tonight as soon as I get stuck with what I have.

Here's a photo of the Manifolds I'm talking about the bolts on the engine side of the cats. I'd imagine they're probably rusted together by now.. But doesn't sound like they'll need to come off.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps73f521d5.jpg




You are typing faster than me :D

Leave that together. as I assume there are three bolts on other end of CATS between CATS and exhaust pipes.

You do not need swivel tools. Just a couple of 3/8 and 1/4 universals along with extensions (for this I like wobble extensions).

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/Wobbleextension.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/Universaladapter.jpg

[5ABI VT]

Ok perfect very much appreciated. About to get started putting the car up on stands. i need it nice and high anyways I need to polish up the corsa pipes some more while Im under there and make one more go on the drain plug on the zf.

One more question.. the inner fenders.. there are 3 sections do I need to remove the middle one or the rear ones too?

Must admit after staring at the headers on my 93 non -z this looks a little intimidating :o I cant even see the manifolds all the way under there :jawdrop:

[WVZR-1]

Ok perfect very much appreciated. About to get started putting the car up on stands. i need it nice and high anyways I need to polish up the corsa pipes some more while Im under there and make one more go on the drain plug on the zf.

One more question.. the inner fenders.. there are 3 sections do I need to remove the middle one or the rear ones too?

Must admit after staring at the headers on my 93 non -z this looks a little intimidating :o I cant even see the manifolds all the way under there :jawdrop:

The fill plug of the ZF needs to be accomplished before you even think about the drain plug!

[Dynomite]

Ok perfect very much appreciated. About to get started putting the car up on stands. i need it nice and high anyways I need to polish up the corsa pipes some more while Im under there and make one more go on the drain plug on the zf. Like WVZR-1 says remove fill plug first....tap 17 mm Allen Wrench in place and while keeping it perpindicular to the plug and fully inserted place a larger box wrench over the end of the Allen Wrench for leverage and more torque. If the 17 mm Allen wrench starts slipping out in any way STOP.

One more question.. the inner fenders.. there are 3 sections do I need to remove the middle one or the rear ones too? Rear ones ....see details in ZR-1 Stock Exhaust Removal (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=180821).

Must admit after staring at the headers on my 93 non -z this looks a little intimidating :o I cant even see the manifolds all the way under there :jawdrop: It is NOT fun removing stock exhaust manifolds from ZR-1

Post above ZR-1 Stock Exhaust Removal (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=180821) has ALL updates ;)

[5ABI VT]

Ok time to pass out I have to be up at 6! Got te car ip in the air and gave it one more try on the drain plug after drivinh around for a while to get the feans warm in hopes of helping the drain loosen.. torque wrench clicked at 100 foot -lbs and then started to turn .. plug is officially rounded. The fill plug I already loosened and topped up when I did the shifter (for some odd reason I though I remembered the instructions said to remove the speedo gear and plug to make room O_o) and spilled some fluid when I popped that out. From now on I think jacking the car up on the front and pulling the speedo may be the best way to get fluid out.. At least until I can take it to a shoppe to get removed. Need to source a new plug first.

On to the headers....
Got the drivers side started. Traction control unit moved out and most of the air system hoses now removed. I got the heat shield completely loose but can't figure out how to get it out.. Top or bottom? There's another shield over the cat I'm guessing I may need to remove that. Tried going down just because pulling it up might scratch the valve covers and I don't want to do that. Peeking around in there all the bolts on the drivers side manifold look pretty accessible.

Pulled the passenger side middle fender well section out and looks like the rear section does need to come out.. Not much visible on that side looks pretty scary ;)


Now that I've started tomorrow I'm hoping for an early start and to have both sides off before I call it a night. We shall see!

Thx very much for all the input so far :)

Where I'm at now..

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps691f4f61.jpg
Shield doesn't Seem to want to come out ! :/

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps8be88824.jpg

[5ABI VT]

Btw in the picture above this post.. Under the third valve cover bolt.. What is that plug/sensor for?

[Dynomite]

Btw in the picture above this post.. Under the third valve cover bolt.. What is that plug/sensor for?

Camshaft Position Sensor......;)
Do NOT remove Camshaft Position Sensor...:p

.. torque wrench clicked at 100 foot -lbs and then started to turn .. plug is officially rounded.



Do NOT remove the speedo gear......

Does that mean you stripped the hex?
Oh crap :p

Can you get a vice grip around outside of threads since you need a new plug now anyway? Wait...that will not work since you already had 100 ft lbs on it.

Chisel and Hammer or if that does not work at all....time to drill it out. Start with smaller drill bit to drain the oil. Then drill bit size of hex hole in plug. Then a larger drill bit but not any larger than threads on trans (actually a bit small than that). Then clean out remaining parts of plug without touching internal plug threads of Transmisison.

There's another shield over the cat I'm guessing I may need to remove that.


Yes...both bolted with two nuts on oil pan bolts and one bolt on block. You remove those and take them to a cut off wheel and grinder and cut to fit around new Headers. They keep wiring and hoses from getting in contact with new headers.

On that Manifold Heat shield....hmmmmm I got mine out on a 90' easily tugging at it as it is only tin. Maybe you have to loosen the engine mount like Mike100 suggests in your case to gain some space.

DO NOT strip those 10 mm Exhaust Manifold Bolt Heads!!!!

No Turning Back Now :sign10:

Also...when you are at it......put that BIG wire harnes that goes over A-Arm on drivers side UNDER A-Arm (just remove A-Arm bolts and slip it under).

[WVZR-1]

Ok time to pass out I have to be up at 6! Got te car ip in the air and gave it one more try on the drain plug after drivinh around for a while to get the feans warm in hopes of helping the drain loosen.. torque wrench clicked at 100 foot -lbs and then started to turn .. plug is officially rounded. The fill plug I already loosened and topped up when I did the shifter (for some odd reason I though I remembered the instructions said to remove the speedo gear and plug to make room O_o) and spilled some fluid when I popped that out. From now on I think jacking the car up on the front and pulling the speedo may be the best way to get fluid out.. At least until I can take it to a shoppe to get removed. Need to source a new plug first.


For the plug from a VW or Audi dealer order a part # WHT-001-937 or from a GM dealer part # 12549378. The VW part should be the least expensive of the two, maybe half of the GM. If the VW dealer offers a substitute for the number I gave you decline that and ask to order the part # I supplied. The one I supplied is 17mm hex and the offered replacement likely a spline drive and would require a special socket. The VW part # is still available here in the US from both the dealer and aftermarket. The GM I've never had in hand but it's for a Getrag so it should be correct.

If you can get just a 17mm hex in the plug you might try using a bottle jack to keep pressure on it and then a box wrench with a cheater to loosen it.

[5ABI VT]

I tried putting a jack under the torque wrench the first time i attempted this last week ..to keep the angle straight with as little pressure as possible .. The torque wrench was set to 140 lbs-ft or so and it clicked :I .. And then started to round out the hex inside the plug. Because I did remove the speedo and plop half a quart out that time I did get the fill plug open and I topped it up with Amsoil.

Can't thank you guys more for your input :) I didn't see the bolts on the lower shields so I decided to just stop there . The shield was curved around the manifold at the front end if the motor. I had to removed the black large nut near cyl 1 on the air assembly and leverage the air tubes a bit which raised the motor slightly to get it to slide out. After that it wouldn't go up or down.
Ill work on the cat shield first when I get home. I shot all visible bolts with a tiny bit of penetrant hopefully it helps a little tonight when I continue the attack.

All I can say is I'm happy I got the air delete. What a mess of tubing and piping. Just curious will it trigger a code if removed? I'm thinking to leave the pump alone up front until I can get the chip in (someonel forgot to mail it 3 weeks back ! o_O) so it can pump away into nothing and not trigger a code? Not sure if that will work in theory.
Will also pick up some tools on the way home. My large tool box is at my parents home with my 93 but so far MacGyver'ing every job has seemed to work well with just a decent socket set And various tools.

[Dynomite]

I tried putting a jack under the torque wrench the first time i attempted this last week ..to keep the angle straight with as little pressure as possible .. The torque wrench was set to 140 lbs-ft or so and it clicked :I .. And then started to round out the hex inside the plug. Because I did remove the speedo and plop half a quart out that time I did get the fill plug open and I topped it up with Amsoil.

Can't thank you guys more for your input :) I didn't see the bolts on the lower shields so I decided to just stop there . The shield was curved around the manifold at the front end if the motor. I had to removed the black large nut near cyl 1 on the air assembly and leverage the air tubes a bit which raised the motor slightly to get it to slide out. After that it wouldn't go up or down.
Ill work on the cat shield first when I get home. I shot all visible bolts with a tiny bit of penetrant hopefully it helps a little tonight when I continue the attack.

All I can say is I'm happy I got the air delete. What a mess of tubing and piping. Just curious will it trigger a code if removed? I'm thinking to leave the pump alone up front until I can get the chip in (someonel forgot to mail it 3 weeks back ! o_O) so it can pump away into nothing and not trigger a code? Not sure if that will work in theory.
Will also pick up some tools on the way home. My large tool box is at my parents home with my 93 but so far MacGyver'ing every job has seemed to work well with just a decent socket set And various tools.

No Codes with Air Induction GONE.....Associated with the Air Injection system is one vacuum line on the drivers side fender skirt above the shock tower. I eliminated the "T" and just moved the "Y" in front of "T" about 3 inches and plugged the "Y" back in where the "T" was.


Let me get this straight.....Did you strip the Trans Drain Plug and NOT get it out? And...if so...did you catch the "drill it out" technique?

What is going on here is extremely helpful that you post up ALL your issues as it helps define a method to remove Stock Exhaust Systems and install Headers for others :thumbsup:

[5ABI VT]

That's awesome ill be unplugging and pulling the whole setup then. I did see the t connection and did the same thing you mentioned that I saw in the info links. Ill take a photo of it so people can see it.

Just to be clear the drain plug had nothing to do with the header install. I tried doing a trans fluid change earlier last week When doing the short shifter, beam plates and corsa car back. for anyone following just for headers ignore the drain plug talk. I have a thread going on CF where I've been documenting the buildup since I picked up the z here..
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3300001-admiral-94-comes-home-finally-let-the-mods-begin.html
I have a photo of the drain plug on page 3 post 58 I think. I will end up drilling it out. Or maybe taking it somewhere to be done when I drop the trans for the alum flywheel and clutch.

[Dynomite]

When you have your drill out install a differential drain plug. :p
Tech Info - LT5 Added Systems LT5 Added Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html#post1579114180)

You are doing great and excellent questions that will help others that do not type as fast as you :D

This from my IPhone 4s which has a great camera to take any photos you might need of either a 90' or 91' ;)

[Jitse]

I am following this topic, last week I was installing a 368 with headers in my car, and when I come home from sea. The plan is to install a set of stainless works headers with B&B exhaust under the Z from a friend.
So this is really helpfull ��

[ghlkal]

You are doing great and excellent questions that will help others that do not type as fast as you :D


I agree ... thanks for posting your install for the rest of us 5ABI

[5ABI VT]

Ok round 2 begins :)

Here is a photo of the air system component that mounts beside the and/tc unit that is one of the first things removed. It has a vacuum line attached.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps8cbd626b.jpg
Shown In this photo is the air system piece removed and the vacuum line reconnected to the 'y' fitting. So the 't' fitting is basically removed from the system. There is white foam under the lines to help make it clear in this photo.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsf10be30b.jpg

[5ABI VT]

No problem at all !! Glad its of any use pictures really seem to help me before I dive in to start a job so its the least I can do.

Good news!!! Drivers side manifold is out :) I'm tired and don't like installing when my eyes are burning lol.. Removing is ok but not putting together. I'm going to stop for the night and take care of the passenger side tomorrow . I have a feeling its going to be more difficult on that side am I right?

Pics coming shortly !!!

[5ABI VT]

Ok here's some pics I took.

AIR tube crossover. 2 screws on the oil pan I put the screws back in after
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps5df97658.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps5df97658.jpg.html)
SHot from below of the plates/shields. The closer one looks like a shield for a knock sensor or oil pressure maybe? One screw and it wiggles out. the one in the back had a 3rd screw besides the 2 visible ones (along oil pan rail) that took me a bit to figure out.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps05c988f5.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps05c988f5.jpg.html)

A shot from over the cat. This is the 3rd screw holding the cat shield. same 10mm. took me a bit to find the sucker =D>
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsb7396b79.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zpsb7396b79.jpg.html)
Just another upwards shot.. enough room to put a 1/4 extension and deep socket on it and screw it loose.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps2109122e.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps2109122e.jpg.html)

There is also a shield that goes along the floor opposite the motor. 2 screws again and it comes down and gives a bit more room. Very easy to remove nothing special just wanted to mention it. If I remember right it shields the brake lines going to the rear.

Once the shields are all out.. I did spend some time trying to unbolt the cat from the manifold. I got all the bolts loose except one and then realized it wasnt getting in the way of any bolts that I could see and I left it. Dont bother trying to remove it it really isnt in the way .
Nice view ... Looks SO easy now.. and it was.


http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsd410b5d3.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zpsd410b5d3.jpg.html)

[5ABI VT]

1/4 drive and deep socket got all but 2 bolts. rear cyl only had 1 bolt the rest had 2 I think.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps0d903cb9.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps0d903cb9.jpg.html)

cyl #1 Needed a wrench.. and a ratchet wrench worked perfectly from around the power steering hoses. The bolt fell but an extendable magnet pen picked it up after the manifold was out.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps597a6f9e.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps597a6f9e.jpg.html)

this one also couldnt fit a socket I think. used the wrench. I accidentally gave it a little turn tight before I realized :eek: .
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps5675c29d.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps5675c29d.jpg.html)

A little nudge and the manifold slipped right off and down. Uplugged the o2 and made sure it didnt snag on the braided line and it came right out !
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsd71a5c92.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zpsd71a5c92.jpg.html)

Sucker is heavy !
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps23037d2b.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps23037d2b.jpg.html)

[5ABI VT]

This honestly just makes me laugh.. maybe Im just too much of a gearhead but wow the exhaust literally hits a wall at almost a 90 degree angle =D>

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsfb5ac3c9.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zpsfb5ac3c9.jpg.html)

Inside one of the ports.. :cry:
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpse976fb57.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zpse976fb57.jpg.html)

25 ish lbs
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps8cfe62e0.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps8cfe62e0.jpg.html)
13-14 lbs. thats 10-11 lbs per side.. say 20 lbs off the motor and front end.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsfc312782.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zpsfc312782.jpg.html)

[5ABI VT]

Some side by side
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps8df3e70c.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps8df3e70c.jpg.html)
comparing again shield off.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsa46a6110.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zpsa46a6110.jpg.html)

Didnt have any high temp rtv as suggested so I stopped for the night. Jerrys gaskets and nice locking bolts as linked to me in earlier threads from summit


http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps0790daba.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps0790daba.jpg.html)

Spike in the collector :)
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps8aec3735.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/Emm3Speed/media/null_zps8aec3735.jpg.html)

Im off to sleep !!!!!!!!

[Dynomite]

:thumbsup: Great Photos of the Stock Kludged Exhaust Manifolds.

Just some tips you might have not thought about installing the NEW SW HEADERS......

Now to install SW....and with a 1/4 socket wrench and two extensions with two universals (sometimes) you can get more of those Stage 8 Exhaust Manifold Bolts on than you think. There was one I could not get the Stage 8 Locks on.

1. Clean ALL surfaces on both sides (Drivers and Passenger) of Exhaust ports. When installing the new Exhaust Manifold Gaskets do NOT put anything on the Gaskets as nothing is needed.

2. Do not forget the center stud with larger nut (90'-92' only). It is best to take that stud out if it did not already come out with the nut using vice grips not to damage the outer threads. Use Red Loctite on it and replace it because it goes into an oil galley. Screw the stud in tight with vice grips (Before you even lift Headers up in place) not to damage the outer thread first and let that set up for a bit before installing the nut. There is a bit of room on the stud where the spacer is between lower and top threads and where the header flange is that you can use vice grips at your will without causing issues. I think both ends of the stud are different in terms of available thread so NOTE that when removing the Stud .

3. Lift Headers in place in install loosely one Stage 8 bolt in center some where (with gasket installed) so you do not have to hang onto and support the headers while installing the rest of the Stage 8 Bolts (there are a couple places you CANNOT get a Stage 8 Bolt Installed which is fine). Slip the Stage 8 through the hole in headers with gasket installed (The Stage 8 will keep gasket in place as you raise Headers to Exhaust Manifold.

4. You do NOT need a torque wrench and you do NOT need to put anything on the Stage 8 bolts when installing. And......you do NOT have to tighten TOO MUCH TORQUE when you are using Stage 8 Locks.

5. Modify those CAT shields (the ones with the two bolts going to the oil pan). Re-install them after you do a little cutting with cutoff wheel and grinder to shape as tight as you can around the Headers without contacting Headers.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/8ddc4dc6-297b-40b9-a1a9-12d5ca7baf00.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/Maintenance%20ZR1/8ddc4dc6-297b-40b9-a1a9-12d5ca7baf00.jpg.html)

6. On the passenger side you might think you cannot install a Stage 8 in the front two holes of the Headers.......You Can as you can see up in front of the motor mount insulation and get that 1/4 socket with extensions up into that area.

7. Two get that passenger side 02 extension attached as provided by SW which is stuffed between engine mount and engine on passenger side......use a Hemostat. There is a clip on the connector that you do not want to break using a long thin screw driver to open when holding with Hemostat.

8. A 16 inch straight Hemostat (Ebay has many). On the Ebay Search....just type in Hemostat and the length you would like and also type in Curved or Straight (Hemostat 16 straight for this one). The beauty in addition to being sleek to reach tight spaces is that it can be locked (ratched locked) once you get hold of what you dropped.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Maintenance/eba212e4-8546-4b1c-a556-bf9c4abf5647.jpg
Particularily useful for Stainless steel and Aluminum Nuts, Bolts and Washers.....as well as Stage 8 Locks that continue to drop in the process of installing them.

9. As you already determined....a magnet on a extendable shaft works perfectly for picking up any Stage 8 bolts that might fall in areas you think they cannot be retrieved.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Maintenance/SPickUpMagnet_zps70964b1f.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/user/dynomite007/media/ZR1%20Maintenance/SPickUpMagnet_zps70964b1f.jpg.html)

10. DO NOT FORGET to Inststall the Dip Stick Tube with new seal .

11. Tuck away from Headers ALL wiring and other lines that might come in contact with Headers. Use the Heat shields (item #5 above) to support lines as required. There are other heat shields for the fuel lines in place that can also be used to tuck 02 sensor wires behind. Use Nylon Ties to make sure those wires and lines do not move back toward the Headers. You DO NOT have to get that top bolt back in the Heat shield as it is well supported with the two bottom bolts of the Oil Pan.

12. Inspect the steering shaft and frame around the Newly Installed SW Headers for clearance as required.

13. Replace inner wheel liners middle and rear and do not forget the BOTTOM 10 mm Bolt in the rear liner.

14. Other Tools.....

I actually use 1/4 inch socket, 1/4 inch socket extensions, 1/4 inch socket wrench, and 1/4 inch universal as the 1/4 inch are much easier to work in tight areas. When you get to installing Headers....I sometimes use two universals and two extensions with one 1/4 inch ratchet wrench with Stage 8 Header bolts (it actually works).

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/flexmetricratchet.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/Universaladapter.jpg

Post 87 - Installing Headers and Exhaust (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-5.html#post1581825195)

[5ABI VT]

Thanks for all that info! I'm confused about this center stud.. Is this one of the bolts that I pulled that held the manifold on? Is it on both sides?

After pulling that side.. I'm in attack mode on the pass side tonight. Will be focusing on pulling all the shields asap. I'm confident I can pull this side in a fraction of the time it took me to do the drivers side.

[5ABI VT]

I'm going to have to take a peek at the head to see about the stud. All I recall pulling is the black bolts with the thick spacers.

[5ABI VT]

I will look tonight. Is it in one if the 4 securing holes for the manifolds/headers ? I'm assuming its between the center exhaust ports?

[Jagdpanzer]

For your information the 93-95 405 hp motors do not have the center stud.

[5ABI VT]

That makes sense why I didn't see it! I was going through all the photos I did take and was scratching my head lol . Picked up my correct rear wheel barrels just now after work.. Carlisle is becoming a possibility !! But.. I would have to get the wheels assembled.. Headers installed , alignment done, tires installed .. All by tomorrow night as the local entourage is meeting and driving down at 5am fri morning .

Going to be a busy night tonight!!


I also have another non header question.. I have a black tag zf-6. The clutch I ordered from Carolina is for a 94 is it possible he has sent me a blue tag t.o bearing with it? Assuming the clutch kit comes with one (didn't check)

[Dynomite]

That makes sense why I didn't see it! I was going through all the photos I did take and was scratching my head lol . Picked up my correct rear wheel barrels just now after work.. Carlisle is becoming a possibility !! But.. I would have to get the wheels assembled.. Headers installed , alignment done, tires installed .. All by tomorrow night as the local entourage is meeting and driving down at 5am fri morning .
Going to be a busy night tonight!!
I also have another non header question.. I have a black tag zf-6. The clutch I ordered from Carolina is for a 94 is it possible he has sent me a blue tag t.o bearing with it? Assuming the clutch kit comes with one (didn't check)

So....you have the Admiral 94 Z which came home......:D

If you get a Throwout Bearing with the clutch.....and it is for 94....well :confused:

1. Throwout Bearings.
I have a 91' ZF S6-40 Transmission (Black Label) Parts List No 1052-000-035 with a collar diameter of 1.373 inches and a 94'-95' ZF S6-40 Transmission (Blue Label) Parts List No 1052-000-087 with a collar diameter of 1.305 inches.

a. Here is a source for the 90'-93' ZR1/LT5 Throwout Bearing Power Torque Systems Throwout Bearing (http://www.powertorquesystems.com/Corvette/CorvetteTB.htm) Part #: 23243
b. Here is a source for the 94'-95' ZR1/LT5 Throwout Bearing Power Torque Systems Throwout Bearing (http://www.powertorquesystems.com/Corvette/CorvetteTB.htm) Part #: 23244c. This is exactly what the Throwout Bearing looks like as cited above in both cases as the differences in internal diameter is not noticeable from a picture only.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/ThrowOutBearing.jpg

[5ABI VT]

Yes that's my thread on CF :) So I'm guessing its normal that I have an early build 94 with a black tag? I was happy to see it was a black tag when I first got under the car but then got wondering if perhaps it was swapped or something.

[5ABI VT]

Got the pass off ... Forgot the egr tube.. How does the clamp come off the manifold?

[Dynomite]

Got the pass off ... Forgot the egr tube.. How does the clamp come off the manifold?

No EGR on my 90' and 91' :D
I have no clue what clamp you are looking at.....must be something on 94 that is not on 91' ;)

For a minute when you said "pass" I thought you said something else :sign10:

[5ABI VT]

Pic inc

[5ABI VT]

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsfc39381d.jpg

[mike100]

jam a screwdriver in there and wedge it apart. There's actually a tool to re-clamp those.. similar to what they sell to re-clamp CV boots.

[5ABI VT]

Well I'm a little stumped been busy all day getting the wheels and tires assembled and mounted. And the pass manifold is off just stuck by the egr tube. Have to figure out how to get that off tomorrow.

Is there an egr valve? I'd like to remove the egr tubing And piping but don't want any codes popping up. If it won't pop a code ill get a gasket made for the plenum and bolt it up and ill get the header welded shut.

[mike100]

You also can remove those brackets that look like the hold the motor mount...they don't...you'll see.

[Dynomite]

If it won't pop a code ill get a gasket made for the plenum and bolt it up and ill get the header welded shut.

I had an EGR port in my SW Headers for the 91' because I forgot to tell SW to eliminate it. I just took a bolt about that size and ground the tip a bit so it was slightly tapered and pounded it in to the SW EGR port as a press fit...works perfectly.

[Jitse]

My sw headers where delivered with the egr tube too, I closed that hole with an m10 stainless bolt, using a good tap for it, to make thread inside.

[5ABI VT]

So there's no valve and no possibility of codes right? I'm sure ill see once I drop the manifold and can see the full length of the hose/tube. Ill pound a screw in there as well maybe pop by the steel shoppe nearby and have them weld it at the head to prevent any leaks as the o2 is downstream.

Kicking myself for not having SW eliminate it grr. Thank god I remembered to delete the air I would have cut them off before Installation.

Mike what brackets are you referring to?

[4-cam]

Great writeup.
I will be starting my installation very soon and will be able to use some of your writeup as reference. What I found interesting is the difference in headers as I thought the SW ZR-1 header was all the same but there are differences in tube length and collector design. I ordered mine with the performance connect as I will be doing an FBI style Exhaust and getting rid of my Borla. Take a look at the differences between my header and 5ABI VT'S header with Factory Connect.

Not trying to hijack, just posting an observation.
4-cam

[5ABI VT]

No hijack at all I mentioned it earlier in my thread.
I almost wish I went with the performance connect as well but for ease of install at home and for fitment with a corsa I didn't have much of a choice. The merge is longer And a smoother transition for the primaries.. It makes the factory connect look like a mid length or shortly header :/

Saving grace for me was they're still WAY better than the factory manifolds.

[5ABI VT]

What did you guys do with the port on the plenum side for the egr?

[tomtom72]

I would just like to offer my thanks for your efforts to let us all know what we will be looking at for this job. :thumbsup: Specially those of us that will be doing this on the floor! LOL

This took effort on your part and I say a big "Thanks!" that you took the time to help the rest of us. After reading your account and Cliff's I think I have been well briefed in what "to be on the look out for".

:cheers:
Tom

[Dynomite]

What did you guys do with the port on the plenum side for the egr?

On my L98 I found a nice billet aluminum plate made to cover the EGR port. I will go out now and look at my 95 LT5 crate engine as well as the L98 spare engine and L98 installed engine and see if there are any similarities. The EGR block off plates come with nice SS allen head bolts ;)

The L98 and LT5 EGR ports on Plenum are NOT the same (The center to center on L98 EGR Cover Bolts is 1.75 inches and on LT5 center to center of EGR flange bolts is about 1.5 inches). I recommend you cut out a nice EGR cover out of 1/4 aluminum stock and drill as shown in the third photo below (the second photo is one I bought with SS Allen Head bolts).

LT5 (93'-95') EGR Plenum Port.............................................. .........L98 EGR Intake Manifold Port
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite/ad95e1b1-dd43-4b65-97ab-cac82124a647.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite/d18eace5-ed22-4b50-879a-4238807319ab.jpg

EGR Cover Plate made from 1/4 inch ALuminum Plate
and Drilled to fit.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite/e46b67c9-1003-4904-b1ee-27d182b2bde7.jpg

And........... if anyone wants to know about installing SW Headers on an L98 as well as eliminating the L98 Air Pump and EGR...
I have done that also :D

This L98 powers a ZF S6-40 six speed Transmission.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/A%20Engine%20L98/df591f5e-28e0-4cc8-b0b8-13631b879eb6.jpg

Cliff

[mike100]

...
Mike what brackets are you referring to?

The last photo you posted...if I'm not mistaken, they are still installed- the are the 15" long diagonal braces that sort of form a "K" shape. I guess you could maybe do the job without removing them, but it makes getting the O2 sensor wiring off a little easier on the passenger side. They do not support the motor mount even though it looks like they do.

[5ABI VT]

Great writeup.
I will be starting my installation very soon and will be able to use some of your writeup as reference. What I found interesting is the difference in headers as I thought the SW ZR-1 header was all the same but there are differences in tube length and collector design. I ordered mine with the performance connect as I will be doing an FBI style Exhaust and getting rid of my Borla. Take a look at the differences between my header and 5ABI VT'S header with Factory Connect.

Not trying to hijack, just posting an observation.
4-cam

Would you mind taking a measurement of the total length for me?

[4-cam]

Just the header or header & cat?

[5ABI VT]

Just the header or header & cat?

Either or works! Was going to just plug in numbers to see the differences my program spits out on hp/torque.

Unhappy to report that I'm still stuck on that egr tube... :(

Getting the dremel out to saw off the tube..

[5ABI VT]

Ok spoke too soon :) some fighting on my back and I got the clamp bent out of shape enough to get the tube free.

I was able to wiggle the manifold and get the tube to slip out. I was going to suggest attempt removing that clamp while the manifolds are in place first to save the hassle of a hanging manifold being in the way.

Here's the little pita clamp.. Hopefully this helps anyone in the future.. There is a tube that comes out of the manifold that connects to the egr that I didn't know. I was trying to figure out what the clamp is actually holding in and only realized after I got it free.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsad5f5269.jpg
Brutal manifolds
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps39c76aac.jpg
Lying on my back I wanted to post photos for you guys. There is LOTS of room now and all ports easily visible.. Clean up time !!!!

Passenger side

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsbbf12064.jpg
Drivers side
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsbd525e1e.jpg

Time for cleanup. Tightening oil pan bolts and cleaning gasket surface on the heads and some carbon from inside the port. I'm half tempted to get my dremel out and enlarge the ports LOL .. Dot worry I won't.. A 4xx stroker will be in this cars future :)

[5ABI VT]

Finished cleaning up. Oil pan bolts were ALL loose . Cleaned and re tightened those. Used a file gage on its side and scraped the gasket surface nice and smooth.

Drivers side
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps475aeaef.jpg
Passenger side
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsd70e49ca.jpg

Bent and pulled the egr tube out of the manifold area and pulled out the dremel and cutting wheel.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps555eef36.jpg
Cut the flared end off and got the plate off. Ill be getting the gasket material and cut it to the outer shape and putting the plate back on like that for now.. Assuming I can find a thick enough gasket that won't get sucked in.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps599e3c0f.jpg

[Dynomite]

Passenger side

Cut the flared end off and got the plate off. Ill be getting the gasket material and cut it to the outer shape and putting the plate back on like that for now.. Assuming I can find a thick enough gasket that won't get sucked in.


It is pretty easy to get a 1/4 inch aluminum plate................................Or take your arc welder and fill in the big hole
and cut that out with a cutoff then drill and polish ..............................then grind smooth and polish on wire wheel
up the plate with wire wheel .................................................. ......... and paint with this Rustoleum.
:thumbsup:



http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite/de37bb36-63d2-48a8-98ae-9e3570c6e1f5.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/A%20Corvette%20LT5%2090/49b05cc4-bb84-4449-af48-80241b98e38a.jpg

[5ABI VT]

I will do that. For the time being I did this lol..

Its sealing the original gasket over the hole :)

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps9003d4e5.jpg

[5ABI VT]

Is the egr tube bolted somewhere below on the passenger side? Can't wiggle it much

[Dynomite]

Damn.....Now I am going to re-do my L98.....but maybe use a nickel.....:D
That is extremely creative :thumbsup:

I will do that. For the time being I did this lol..

Its sealing the original gasket over the hole :)

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps9003d4e5.jpg

[5ABI VT]

One side is done!! Tip for those buying the stainless licking bolts.. Buy 2 packs!!!! I can't believe I overlooked that they had 20 per pack. I used every header bolt in the drivers side and realized I didn't have enough for the passenger side grrrr!!!!! I pulled the bottom non - visible bolts for the stock bolts.. Then remembered I had the SW bolts so I used those where they aren't visible and kept 9 stainless ones for the top on the pass side.

If anyone was discouraged by the removal.. The install was a joke! So much room.. Place and hand tightened all the bolts .. Few from the top rest on my back. Very easy!!
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps52876c3c.jpg

On to the passenger side!!!! Thinking about cruising tonight already lol!!

[mike100]

It is almost comical how easily the headers go up and onto the heads compared with the struggle removing the oem manifolds.

[Jagdpanzer]

I'm interested in your take off EGR flex tubs if you don't need them anymore.

[5ABI VT]

It is almost comical how easily the headers go up and onto the heads compared with the struggle removing the oem manifolds.

It definitely is comical. I put them up and was positioning myself to get ready to line them up and then I realized they were pretty much on place already ! Looking back now I could probably have done it in 1/4 of the time maybe less if I didn't have to clean everything in sight.
I'm interested in your take off EGR flex tubs if you don't need them anymore.

I unbolted a lot of stuff if they are still in useable condition I'd be happy to send them your way. I did wiggle and fight with the egr tubing not knowing they were all bolted down and the egr hardware was down low. I assumed the tube went from the plenum straight to the header and it doesn't. Ill post pics later but the lower egr tube bolts in a tight place but I got it out. I didn't realize but after unwrapping the passenger header I happily found that my egr is not there!!

[tf95ZR1]

Ok spoke too soon :) some fighting on my back and I got the clamp bent out of shape enough to get the tube free.

I was able to wiggle the manifold and get the tube to slip out. I was going to suggest attempt removing that clamp while the manifolds are in place first to save the hassle of a hanging manifold being in the way.

Here's the little pita clamp.. Hopefully this helps anyone in the future.. There is a tube that comes out of the manifold that connects to the egr that I didn't know. I was trying to figure out what the clamp is actually holding in and only realized after I got it free.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsad5f5269.jpg
Brutal manifolds
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps39c76aac.jpg


FYI the clamp is called a Oetiker clamp.
There is a special tool/plier to crimp a new one.

[5ABI VT]

I got a little scare in that Removing the egr will throw a code. Because I thought the egr tube went from plenum to manifold (should have realized that it wasn't likely to be setup like that), I figured no codes would pop but After seeing where the tubes bolt on the lower pass side of the motor I realized there is an egr setup down low. Quick look at the rad emissions sticker confirmed it. I quickly searched my emails and saw that I did ask Marc to tune out the egr so all is well on that front.

Need to go through my photos to rebember which shields go where. And Idea for anyone going to do this on their own, might make it easier to scratch a small L/R in the shields and maybe number them front to back etc. or take lots of photos.

Hopefully all the evidence evaporates around the kitchen sink before the wife wakes up ..
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsb41b6ba3.jpg
After
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsd72dd744.jpg

I also have to figure out the dipstick tube and how to get it to work temporarily before I can order a modified bracket.

Since I know ill probably trigger a code driving ill take my time and do the frame brace tomorrow since the chip probably won't arrive for a few days.

[4-cam]

Glad the installation is progressing well and I can't wait to report on the finished product.. If I had a decent exhaust that I wanted to keep I would have went the same route you did.
I just got a chance to measure my header. From the end of the flange to the end of the collector is 27.75 in

[5ABI VT]

Started the buttoning up process .. I bent the dipstick tube and hammered the flange a bit to get it to line up with the bolt hole on the first tube.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps21564886.jpg
Then I used a ss lock washer and flat washer to broaden the contact on the dipstick tube tab and tightened it down.

I will be ordering a new seal and whatever the best solution is for the dipstick (new tube or bracket) but for now its in and snug in the block

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zps240b02be.jpg

[5ABI VT]

Anyone rebember where this goes? I seem to be forgetting and can't find a plug for it... I thought I taped the fc3 plugs somewhere is it that?

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/Emm3Speed/null_zpsa6a0577f.jpg

[carter200]

I sell billet blockoff plates for the EGR. PM me if interested.....Your install is going nicely from what I can see. Nice work :cheers:

[5ABI VT]

I sell billet blockoff plates for the EGR. PM me if interested.....Your install is going nicely from what I can see. Nice work :cheers:

Thx carter ! Will probably hit you up on that and do some silver pc like the plenum for it. Ill be getting those brackets as well for the sway bar ill just ship everything to buffalo as usual.. Was going to tell you to just do that but it was too late.



I'm stumped on that connector. I found the fx3 connector tucked away.. Was it for the air system that say next to the Asr box?

[5ABI VT]

Aaaaand she fired up today !! Oh boy does she road at part throttle LOL !!! Made a quick video of fire up then let it run and checked again for any wires or anything touching the headers etc and for loose plugs and connections. Air pump is out as is all the tubing. Got the baer 6 pots on one side will get all the rotors on tonight after work and start bleeding tomorrow with a friends help. He could use the leg workout ha!

Will put on the frame brace tomorrow as well and hopefully book an alignment for this week !! Here's a video !!

The speaker for overwhelmed by the sound ill make another tomorrow

http://youtu.be/yfLcyPJZpS0

[carter200]

Thx carter ! Will probably hit you up on that and do some silver pc like the plenum for it. Ill be getting those brackets as well for the sway bar ill just ship everything to buffalo as usual.. Was going to tell you to just do that but it was too late.



I'm stumped on that connector. I found the fx3 connector tucked away.. Was it for the air system that say next to the Asr box?

I refunded, as you saw, but when you are ready just add $18 for the blockoff plate. I have them in stock. Give me a shout and I'll get all in the mail the same day, if early enough notice. You are doing a great job and the video sounds like you'll have a bit more authority when you press the go pedal down!
Later, Carter :cheers:

[mike100]

Is that 2 pin connector for the recently removed air injection diverter valve?

[5ABI VT]

Is that 2 pin connector for the recently removed air injection diverter valve?

It was indeed !! I was staring at the asr box for a while wondering why it looked like something was missing beside it !