Y/T DataMaster vid with throttle movement...

[Schrade]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxNNpyxyiIs

Anybody see anything on this video? (best I could do for starters here - still learning software navigation...)

[XfireZ51]

I think I'd rather look at the datalog as an .xls or .txt file. Not very clear and besides things happening too quickly.

[Franke]

Schrade,
Not sure how well monitor mode captures data but i can tell you that when i recorded my data after replacing the injectors and O2's, my LT counts were rock steady at 128 left and 129 Right in OPEN loop. RPM's were 775 at idle. In closed loop they moved between 125/130 Left and Right until i reved her to aout 4k rpm. At that time the LT counts went to 128 L/R and stayed there until throttle release. I noticed that your LT counts were moving in open loop which i don't understand as the ECM sets a constant 14 to 1 AFR. Maybe nothing to worry about but i thought the LT's should be steady in open loop. Maybe someone with more knowledge can help here and yes a .xls file could be helpful.

[Franke]

Correction to previous post. LT counts were 128/128 in open loop and ST counts were 128/129 in open loop. The LT counts stayed at 128/128 during the entire test but the ST Counts moved between 125 to 130 left and right until i reved her to 4k. Then they were at 128/128.

[XfireZ51]

Correction to previous post. LT counts were 128/128 in open loop and ST counts were 128/129 in open loop. The LT counts stayed at 128/128 during the entire test but the ST Counts moved between 125 to 130 left and right until i reved her to 4k. Then they were at 128/128.


Franke,

The BLMs will be 128, especially if you disconnected the battery, in Open Loop. They don't change until it goes Closed Loop AND LEARN is ON. The INT and BLMs will got to 128 at about 4k since you go into PE mode at that point, so back into Open Loop.

[Franke]

Thanks XfireZ51 for the info. I did disconnect the battery to fix the injectors and O2's so I understand why the readings now. The ECM did have to relearn as I did tests with the old memcal and the newer Haibeck chip to view any differences. I saw an increase in MPG and a good emissions reading after a 25 mile ride down the hiway and back, then to the emissions testing facility. The BLM readings BEFORE the fix were very rich on the left side. LT was 115 consistently and ST was moving but rich always. After the fix LTs were consistant at 128 and the STs stayed around 128 +- 5 as well at idle and above. Looking at the histograms it showed the Fuel trim cells to be good at all RPM's. Good to have her back to normal.

[XfireZ51]

Franke,

When I download a new cal, I reset the BLMs so that when I begin datalogging I am getting a read on the new settings. Since I use the datalog to modify the VE table, I'll drive the car for a bit before recording data. That way the BLMs on the new cal are steadier in each of the cells I hit. Otherwise you'll be relying on data that is still transitionng to its ultimate state. You'll get there eventually, but this shortens it up a bit.

[Schrade]

I saw slight deviation from 128 (125L 131R, IIRC); if I can't figure out how to record a progressive scan in a day or 2, I'll try to get a better video posted...

Been at the speed shop ALL DAY, trying to get electrical 'noise' isolated from the A4 controller module. Still having the TPS lag, and it's causing a 2 MPH swing in Cruise Control function...

I'm hoping it will show up as a MAP issue / MAP voltage, in a scan...

Anyone know where the User's Guide is for DM?

Thanks here...

[Franke]

Schrade,
The software manual is on TTS Datamaster web site. They have a PDF version or a manual download to your computer.
Here is the PDF URL. http://www.ttspowersystems.com/software/DataMaster-OBD1-401/DM32man_v400.pdf

[XfireZ51]

Looks like you can Export as a .csv file which I would have expected. Once done then review data in .xls.

[Schrade]

YikES! 94 pages DataMaster User's Guide .pdf ! :eek:

Can't print THAT out, and can't read the laptop in the 'library', where my throne has a hole in the middle :D

[Schrade]

OK - how long should a recording be (in order to not create a ridiculous LONG file for posting here), should I make???

And only in Closed Loop, I guess?

And should it be a 'Road Test' for better diagnostic data???

FIRST thing I'm looking for is the Cruise Control problem, of the 2 MPH swing......

[Franke]

Schrade,

It shouldn't take too long to gather the data needed. I think you said that it doesn't sag when you ease into it from idle but does when you romp on it. Does it do it all the time, for ex. in open loop mode while warming up or only in closed loop after warmup? That might help you to decide how long a test.

[Schrade]

Schrade,

It shouldn't take too long to gather the data needed. I think you said that it doesn't sag when you ease into it from idle but does when you romp on it. Does it do it all the time, for ex. in open loop mode while warming up or only in closed loop after warmup? That might help you to decide how long a test.

NoSIR - petty much the opposite - it DOES sag / delay (WITHOUT STUMBLE) on slow pedal - even bounces RPM's briefly just a TAD (IF YOU TRY TO HOLD STEADY AT THAT POINT!!! ), and when the auto shifts, on a slow pedal, it does it then too, at low RPM, in each gear.

After TPS exceeds 'X' position, in it's range of motion, in each gear, it's smooth as glass TPS response...

If I can't get soon from TTS DM how to initiate a scan, I'll just post another vid that might reveal something here...


and thanks for helpin' again there Franke... You picking up anything here?

When you help, and THINK, on another's problem, you can sometimes learn something yourself - not necessarily about THAT problem, but just HOW TO think problems out!!!

This one is diggin' on me - that's for SURE!!!

WHY CAN I HOLD A STEADY HIGHWAY SPEED WITH THE MECHANICAL LINKAGE, BUT CRUISE CONTROL CANNOT. IT SWINGS 2MPH. AND AT LOW THROTTLE POSITION, THERE'S 'UNSTEADINESS - SAG' JUST AS PEDAL COMES OFF 0% THROTTLE???

???

[Franke]

Sounds like 2 problems. MAP sensor voltage varies with intake manifold vacuum. The MAP can be tested on the car or off with a vacuum pump and voltmeter as per the FSM. When slow pedal - multiple things are happening. Voltage starts changing in the TPS to the ECM and Manifold vacuum starts dropping back toward atmospheric pressure changing the MAP voltage to the ECM. Possibly since everything goes to and from the ECM, did you try another ECM? I'm runnin' out of ideas here.

Cruise uses electrical, vacuum and mechanical links. I think the Cruise issue is a seperate problem. Section 9B in the FSM describes its operation but is not a lot of help. One thing I think they do have in common possibly is a vacuum leak. Did you verify all hoses and canisters integrity etc?
I once worked on a ford that had a vacuum problem that had a hose with a small crack in it. You couldn't see the crack visually and I found it by using a vacuum pump on the hose alone. Boy was I surprised when the hose couldn't hold vacuum even though it looked good.

[Schrade]

I'm the guru of vac leak detection, but the process doesn't apply to LT5

(and I don't even HAVE a loping idle)

Vacuum leak detection is hard to do right: I know of only one guy who did it right and found a leak (in IAC gasket):Originally Posted by Schrade View Post
No one got the proper technique for vacuum leak detection...

FIRST (fully warmed up motor); block the gas pedal, or block the throttle linkage. YOU HAVE TO DO THIS TO GET A STEADY IDLE , around 1,250 rpms, or a little higher. If you don't, you can fish starting fluid, a propane hose, or WD40 (http://viglink.pgpartner.com/rd.php?r=17580&m=1203608157&q=n&rdgt=1375800503&it=1375973303&et=1376405303&priceret=5.99&pg=%7E%7E3&k=67b0f9981be874f496b806e8883c1fa1&source=feed&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eboatersplus%2Ecom%2Fwd40%2D wd40%2D8%2Doz%2Dsmart%2Dstraw%2D110054%2Ehtml%3Fut m%5Fsource%3Dpricegrabber%26utm%5Fmedium%3Dcse%26u tm%5Fcontent%3DLS%2D140%2D110054%26utm%5Fcampaign% 3Dpricegrabber&st=feed&mt=%7E%7E%7E%7E%7E%7E%7E%7En%7E%7E%7E), or Krylon, or hair spray, or pee, anything, until you need a sweater (http://shop.nordstrom.com/sr?keyword=sweater) in Hades, but if the motor is lopin' idle already from a vacuum leak, you ain't gonna' find any leak, unless it's so big that Little Jack Horner can stick his thumb in it and pull out a pineapple NOPE.

AFTER you get a steady idle, THEN, you can spray starting fluid everywhere - that's the best detector, because it's vapor pressure is very high - a LITTLE at a time, all around the motor, until you get the rpm SURGE. Follow the vacuum lines to the EVAP cannister too. You might even have to follow the EVAP lines from the EVAP cannister to the gas tank too, but that vacuum leak will show up as a DTC 32 EGR fault, and won't normally show as loping idle, unless the EVAP cannister has been by-passed (been there, saw that uh-HUH yup).

If you get a surge in a tight spot, and can't tell exactly where it is, light a book of matches, blow out the match heads while they're still burnin', and feed the smoke to the tight spot to see it get drawn in.

Fear not the starting fluid; you cannot put the can down fast enough and light the matches fast enough to catch the starting fluid, because the vapor pressure is so high.

Bookmark this post YUP.

Wrench Wizard OUT!