Where to find Quality front hub / bearing assemblies

[emmvette]

I've found the SKF rears at NAPA, but only Chinese for the fronts. Has anybody run into this before and found a good solution?
It is my intent to do some autocross and HPDE events, so I would like quality assemblies.

I've searched the forum, but not found much on this topic.

[ZZZZZR1]

SKF if you can find them

If not, delco are excellent!

:cheers:

David

[emmvette]

I did more searching on google and found this website that others recommended, and they even carry tapered roller bearings for the rears.
http://www.corvettewheelbearings.com/

I'll probably do this unless anybody has had a negative experience with them.

[Daniel_Mc]

Have you looking for the F body hubs? It's the same thing except you run the bolt in from the opposite side.

-Daniel

[emmvette]

My understanding is that the F body hubs will work for 91-96, but not '84-'90 vettes. This is not based on my experience but reading on-line. That reminds me, I should have mentioned in my note up top, my car is a 1990. Rears are the same '84-'96.

[FU]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-BR930024-Rear-Wheel-Hub-BearingAxle-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-/310707454592

[VetteVet]

I was looking into this recently and was interested in the SKF rears, but read reviews from several people who said they failed in short order when doing autocross/HPDE type stuff. No personal experience, just what I read.

Jep

[batchman]

Apologies for the long post but this turned into my hub "core dump".

I can't do the tapered bearings due to my class rules, but know one autocrosser who did (different class) and still had failures.

I did not find any difference in SKF vs any other. Between the 88 and the 91 we have tried them all. My belief is they are now all made in the same factory in China, as evidence we've found markings mixed up between box, housing and flange and more than once... They have gotten better in recent years but recently I put a new rear Timken in the 88 and found a little play after one 6-run event. They all will eventually get play in them.

This spring I put some new cheap rears (ie $35) on the 88 only to find the hub centering ring was too big to seat the SSR wheels. So I have learned to check that *before* install.

Our experience is not typical. We autocross on Hoosier A6s which are the grippiest DOT tire in existence, and not casually. We have issues whether we run them in for 500 miles first, or not. Some hubs fail right away, some take a season or once in a while two.

FYI the early cars at least have cheaper hubs, due to the sensor staying in the knuckle. I actually picked up a set of knuckles, sensors and wiring harness to convert the '91 to earlier hubs so I can stock only one type of spare, but to meet my rules I have to convert the harness and that's not easy as all 4 wheels are in one harness (ick). Plus the harness from an SBC vette crosses over the firewall, not so great an idea with the LT5. To do it right I need a harness from a 90 ZR-1, which I believe runs down both rockers instead.

The good news is street tire autocrosses are much less of an issue, unless you're SCCA nationally competitive that is. We've had much better life from them by sticking to 50-60 sec course lengths, limiting dual driving, and cooling hubs between runs with the same sprayer we use on the tires. I don't believe normal street driving is a concern - this is all about modern tire grip exceeding the design envelope.

Don't forget the FSM allows up to 0.005" play on the hubs, but doesn't say where to measure ;). I've run them to pretty loose, but if you take that too far that can bring problems - saw a friend go too far on his F-body to the point that one broke. Ran one loose enough myself that the brake caliper hopped the pin on a bumpy course, also had rotor runout issues contributing on that one...

I'm running a limited season and my wife is running fewer events this year, but still I've changed 7 hubs so far on the two cars, with a couple more ready. Really good news is they're easy to change. I've kind of decided that since every car has a weak spot when pushed as hard as we do, this is not such a bad weakness.

On edit - I should mention that Autozone at least gives a one year warranty. Worked for me - for a while.

Good luck,
- Jeff

[batchman]

Emmvette, that is an interesting link especially since they show two versions for many of our bearings. Since they seem to offer a warranty on some of them I may give them a try on their "premium" versions to see if they're any different. Only problem is keeping track as I have piles of these things new and used LOL.

Unsure about their tapered roller option, the ones I am familiar with are custom and around $1k/side (rear only).

Cheers,
- Jeff

[lbszr]

I've been running F-body on the front with the skid sensors removed and the hole plugged on 90.

AC delco has lasted pretty good.


SKF with the correct PN stamped on the flange has lasted a really longe time on the right front, I don't know if it helps yet, but I put 90 weight oil in the cavity of the steering knuckle for that one.


The track I go to is harder on the left front though, the last one was a SKF boxed, but the flange PN was National, but looked identical to the SKF. It lasted about 6 track days at the most.


I've had some of the cheaper ones only last one track day.

A old style National, probably a US one, actually lasted the longest of any for me, but haven't been able to get that one any more, it lasted too long and the flange actually broke off, good place to look for cracks between each track event I learned (wheels too).


I'm trying R@D (R@D) with AC delco on left now with 90 weight oil in the cavity, after 2 hard track days, it has slight play and is still good with Hoosier R6 315 on the front.


I might give the 90 style Raybestos from Rock atuo a try, even though they are china.