Transmission/clutch whine when clutch is NOT pushed in.

[oricale]

Alright all,

I just installed new:

clutch master
clutch slave
clutch line
transmission with 32,000 miles (operated fine when pulled


I start it up and there is a obvious whine.

when i push in the clutch whine goes away.

did not have a whine before.


*possibly a need for more bleeding of the clutch???


:confused:

[WVZR-1]

Alright all,

I just installed new:

clutch master
clutch slave
clutch line
transmission with 32,000 miles (operated fine when pulled


I start it up and there is a obvious whine.

when i push in the clutch whine goes away.

did not have a whine before.


*possibly a need for more bleeding of the clutch???


:confused:

What pilot bushing/bearing is in the crankshaft?

[oricale]

What about throwout bearing?, How can I check to see if that is the cause?

[WVZR-1]

I've never done it but I don't know why you couldn't use a stethoscope on the fork and just in the general area of the flywheel-housing and the transmission itself. I would think the stethoscope on the fork would be the first place I'd go.

[secondchance]

http://www.powertorquesystems.com/Corvette/CorvetteMain.htm

If pilot bushing Jim sells solid and fluted.
If TO bearing you are going to have to hunt for awhile - tough to find.

[A26B]

We have the fluted AC Delco bronze pilot bearing too.

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=780

[oricale]

Jerry,

Dont know if thats the problem,..but cant hurt to have one,

Get me a price for both pilot and throw out bearings.:handshak:

[gbrtng]

What pilot bushing/bearing is in the crankshaft?
The pilot bushing is not in play here - all rotating parts are at the same speed (crankshaft, flywheel, tranny input shaft).

[oricale]

The pilot bushing is not in play here - all rotating parts are at the same speed (crankshaft, flywheel, tranny input shaft).

Elaborate sir!,..

[WVZR-1]

The pilot bushing is not in play here - all rotating parts are at the same speed (crankshaft, flywheel, tranny input shaft).

I saw the NOT after I had posted but left the post as a matter of interest into which was used if any at all, maybe it was the original one and NOT serviced but it's pretty common practice to replace on each removal of transmission by some. Was the flywheel inspected, pressure plate and disc removed for inspection and is the fork attached correctly to the pivot stud.

I also didn't see any mention of what had or hadn't been replaced other than hydraulics and was the transmission the one that was in the car or a replacement from another car with the 32K miles. That's a little vague. If the flywheel housing was removed and the transmission is from another car it may not like the orientation to the center-line of the crankshaft. I've never seen it mentioned when doing anything with an LT5 but what about offset flywheel housing dowels**

** is there dowels?

Just askin'

[A26B]

..... If the flywheel housing was removed and the transmission is from another car it may not like the orientation to the center-line of the crankshaft. I've never seen it mentioned when doing anything with an LT5 but what about offset flywheel housing dowels**

** is there dowels?

Just askin'
Yep, its doweled

[A26B]

Jerry,

Dont know if thats the problem,..but cant hurt to have one,

Get me a price for both pilot and throw out bearings.:handshak:

Can only wish I had a quality throwout bearing. Sorry

I wasn't implying the problem was a pilot bushing.

[oricale]

WVZR-1



clutch operated good with no noise last week
clutch bell housing was not removed
32000 mile tranny had no issues
serviced with Pennzoil synchro mesh gm fluid before installation
original tranny had #3 synchro bad( would pop out of gear in 3rd
then clutch slave failed, so I replaced master,slave and line

[WVZR-1]

Then there's only the fork to pivot stud to be concerned with if all was well last week, unless you managed to maybe do something to the release bearing mount to the pressure plate fingers.

[VetteVet]

I would change out the Pennzoil fluid with the Castrol TWS 10W-60 stuff. That seems to solve a lot of problems.

Jep

[tomtom72]

:o Okay, I can't find the write up, but a whine from the trans when in neutral & motor running. The write up was in a series of tables that were labeled "common issues" and another table that was a symptom and cause table. They used to be on our mother ship in the maintenance section, but that was under the old format.

Anyway, if I remember correctly GM's answer as to why there is a whine in neutral, motor running, clutch pedal up was the gears were straight cut vs beveled cut. The important part was that GM said it was normal.

:cheers:
Tom

[Paul Workman]

Mine is a 90 with straight-cut gears, and I have no whine that I'm aware of, before or after installing the Fidanza FW and new PP, TB, and pilot bushing (from AutoZone).

I do know from working with an LT1 car that if the shim plate (LT1 cars) is the least bit other than perfectly flat that whine from the ZF can result and bad things happen to the input bearing.

Well, the ZR-1 does not have that shim plate, but if for any reason the trans is not properly squared with the bell housing, or the housing had been removed or loosened and for some reason askew...?

Bill Boudreau at ZFdoc,com might be able to shed some light. AND, he's the one recommending the Castrol TWS 10W-60 for the ZF.

Like I said...mine doesn't whine when idling/clutch out - FWIW.

P.

[WVZR-1]

WVZR-1



clutch operated good with no noise last week
clutch bell housing was not removed
32000 mile tranny had no issues
serviced with Pennzoil synchro mesh gm fluid before installation
original tranny had #3 synchro bad( would pop out of gear in 3rd
then clutch slave failed, so I replaced master,slave and line


Let's make sure I have this understood, this list implies that the 32K transmission is a NEW INSTALL to this car? Is that correct or was it in there previously? It's difficult to determine. If the transmission that is in there now was there last week it's pretty much I'd think as I posted last evening, there's something askew with the fork, stud or release bearing or a combination. I would think my earlier suggestion of the stethoscope would help there.

If this is the first time this 32K transmission has been installed in this car you do the R&R and confirm the works, every bit of it. I won't comment on your choice of lubricants, it's pretty much the choice of the owner. I don't believe it would have anything to do with your situation anyway. The transmission should not have issues at idle clutch out. I feel a little "stupid" not catching the "NOT" in the thread title.

Either way first install for this transmission or if it were there last week with no issues I believe you're in for another R & R. Did the transmission get away from you at anytime when you were removing which ever one or installing the one that's there? If it got away from you who knows.

I'd check it with the stethoscope, maybe loosen the pressure plate bolts in the car, rotate the trans main-shaft & input shaft using the rear wheels manually several rotations tighten it all back up and fire it up!

[oricale]

alright!!!...I took the car out for a long test drive of about 30 min in all conditions up to 75 MPH

Here is what I see:



Whine seems to come from tranny
only in the first 3 gears CANNOT hear it after 3rd
shifts good(albeit) with a ripper shifter its very notchy
clutch releases about 2 inches from bottom of travel position
do not feel any issues other than whine from 1-3rd

I may need to bleed the clutch a bit...could have a slowly failing release bearing...because the normal grab is much sooner than the white car...HOWEVER I drove this car from NC and that was the way it always was...BUT the clutch was failing so I thought that was an indication...other than that car feels good, other than the other little issues I am working...


The whine sounds akin to being on a bus...NOT loud or anything just the same kind of whine.


so!....????

[Jagdpanzer]

Could be the thin washer in the throwout bearing which retains the bearing. With the clutch ingaged the washer might be coming in contact with the back side of of the spinning outer shell which is retained in the pressure plate spring fingers by the wire retainer. You can confirm next time you drive by putting you foot on the clutch peddle and apply enough force to take out the slack in the TB without fully disingauging the clutch. I tested this tonight by taking the TB I just remove from my car and chucked it up on the lathe and spun it up to 2000 rpm. When slack you could deffenently hear the sliding contact noise which went away when tension was applied. Hope this helps.