Steering Binding

[matszr1]

Has anyone ran into an issue with the steering binding in only one spot and only when I am traveling at a reasonable speed? If I am sitting still the steering turns nice and smooth. It only binds if I am doing 15 mph plus so I am assuming that the additional back torque of the car moving adds to the binding. I am having a hard time locating what is the cause because it does not show itself unless I am moving. It only binds when doing a right turn and it is right before the point where I would normally turn the wheel to when going around a tighter intersection corner. It is getting a bit frustrating because everything else works and looks good, it is just this one spot. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Matt

[Z51JEFF]

Possibly a worn rack?

[Franke]

Hi. Matszr1,

Hhmmmmm...When you said you are sitting still and its smooth is that at idle or did you try running the rpms up to see if it fails. Is the fluid level correct?

[RICHARD TILL]

You might try the Lucas product. Not on the Vette but its worked miracles for me on other cars with rack and pinion.

[tomtom72]

I'm old so bear with me! LOL Back in the old days of ball & worm gear boxes that usually meant something was worn out inside the box. I'm not sure that applies to a R&P system?

The bind happens at extreme right lock, or some point with in the range from center to right lock? Is it possible that the rack bushing is torn, and the rack is moving? That bushing is a PIA to get a good eyeball on and even worse to get out.

Another stupid Q. :o If you go lock to lock while standing still do you hear any groaning or other noises or resistance to movement? Or is it silent & smooth? Mine started to make groaning noises, but no mechanical lack of function at about 17 or 18 years old & about 32k miles. It was a bit stiff, like it wanted to bind ( maybe ) but didn't while standing still & doing the lock to lock thing. A Tech I know said to flush the system. I did that BG thing at his dealership....I know, I know, I'm a bad owner! LOL Anyway that did the trick on mine. I used to just suck out the reservoir every year but he said that wasn't getting it done. I don't know if bad tie rods or ends could cause your symptoms? I would think that if those parts were bad they would show upon doing an alignment?

:cheers:
Tom

[matszr1]

Fluid level is good and clear. At a stand still the steer looks, feels and sounds totally normal. Everything is perfectly normal exept that one spot. I am pretty confident that it is not the pump because the RPM's of the motor does not affect it in any way. It is only the speed of the car while turning that shows the issue. If I am going slow enough around a corner, it will not bind or it will bind less if i am at an in between speed. I can have the car at idle going around the corner or accelerating and it will act the same if I am at a fast enough speed. Just for reference, if I had my hand at the very top of the steering wheel (12:00 position) and make a right turn, my hand would be at about the 5:00 position when it binds and if I push harder, it will push by that spot and continue turning. That is the frustrating thing is everything else seems like it is working perfectly and I really don't want to tear the whole R&P apart to find out that it is possibly something else or to find out that it is something that you really can't see or tell is bad. That is why I was hoping someone had ran into this issue before.

[tomtom72]

Okay Matt, I'm sorry I wasted your time making you read my post. I missed the mark obviously. My bad. :o I never had any mechanical experience with a R&P system where it was giving mechanical symptoms like you're having.

Here's what I'm thinking. A simple non-assisted R&P system is just a gear mesh. If there was damage to one or two teeth on the rack on one side of center only then it would bind only at that point. But it would do it all the time, moving vehicle or stationary no matter. If the teeth were actually broken off I would expect a "dead" spot in the travel, or maybe a jammed rack due to the broken teeth getting caught?

Maybe it's not the steering at all? I wonder if putting the front up on jack stands and working a wheel to turn the steering would show anything thru a better "feel" that is not insulated thru the hydraulic fluid pressure? The FSM don't have any symptoms & mechanical causes in the steering section so I'm groping in the dark. Sorry.

:cheers:
Tom

[Franke]

Matt, you have a tough one. Did you do a complete mechanical inspection of the steering and related reference positions. What I mean is checking any part that provides a solid reference point such as upper/lower control arm bushings, stablizer link connections etc. Wheel caster comes into play for steering effort but I would think that would probably show up all the time. I'm trying to imagine why it would only do this in motion which tends to make me think something is moving off center or out of position. Sorry not much help to you.

[GOLDCYLON]

Did you install headers recently ? Is it binding on the steering shaft?

[matszr1]

I have had headers for a while now but I didn't think about looking at the steering shaft to see if was rubbing. I will take a look at that closer but the ony thing that I would question would be why it only binds when I am moving. I would think that if it was the headers that it was rubbing on that it would do it all the time.




Did you install headers recently ? Is it binding on the steering shaft?

[GOLDCYLON]

I have had headers for a while now but I didn't think about looking at the steering shaft to see if was rubbing. I will take a look at that closer but the ony thing that I would question would be why it only binds when I am moving. I would think that if it was the headers that it was rubbing on that it would do it all the time.

Its a long shot however its does flex while moving and the rubbing in the area should be obvious. Its a zero dollar area to look at. Nobody mentioned it so I thought well maybe. You may have to dimple the area if it is indeed rubbing. GC

[batchman]

Steering shaft is a great place to start GC. A motor mount giving up can allow a lot more motion than one would think.

Other tips that come to mind -

With engine running, have someone else turn the steering wheel slowly back/forth lock-to-lock and look at the suspension tie points, see if you can observe anything moving in ways they shouldn't. If a tie rod end or ball joint or rack or LCA bushing allows motion, then Bob's your uncle.

Lift the front, unlock the steering wheel (engine off) and move the front wheels lock-to-lock by hand to find if you feel any notchiness in the travel. This should highlight a problem in the rack itself.

I would also suggest watching (or even feeling) the rag joint in these exercises, this requires removing the clip-on shroud if it's not already ditched from the header caper. My money is here if it's not header vs shaft. If it is the rag joint this is a good excuse to go to the non-zr-1 hockey puck style, which will change your steering feel in a big way.

Good luck,
- Jeff