Tips / how to change oil?

[Racinfan83]

Did a forum search and didn't find much info on this... so I shall ask
I am used to changing my own oil on my vehicles. Don't know much about this beast - so hoping u guys can tell me. I have the AC PF970C filter already, and I use Mobil 1 10w30 in my other vehicles anyway so good there. How many drain plugs are there, will I need to do anything special with the cooler or filter, how many quarts does it take? Any other hints regarding the oil change process? Thanks....

[vilant]

I was told to let the car sit overnight, then change the oil. It gives it time for all of the oil to work its way back down to the oil pan. Took nine quarts to refill, and the capacity is 9.6, so it worked.

[Kevin]

capacity is 12 qts....jack it up, change oil like any other car

[Racinfan83]

Took nine quarts to refill, and the capacity is 9.6, so it worked.

capacity is 12 qts....

Ok.......:confused::confused:

[Paul Workman]

While it is true the dry capacity is around 12 quarts, it is difficult to get all the oil to drain out of the oil cooler and other nooks n crannies - hence the suggestion to jack up the front end and let the drain plug remain out over night...to get practically all the oil out.

It is always a good idea to hand fill the oil filter with fresh oil before reinstalling it to minimize the low oil pressure period at the bearings. Filling the filter after and after it has sat draining all night (or a couple hours is prolly just as good, practically speaking), I believe that is about all the TENDER LOVING CARE any LT5 could expect.:)

Crank it and let it run, then shut it off for an hour + and then top it off before the next outing, and you be good.

As for which oil... I go with Marc Haibeck's recommendation; that AMO 10W40 full synthetic.

[PhillipsLT5]

No jacking needed
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Q5_aqhfFQY

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Oil%20Filter%20Recommendation%20Update%202011.pdf

[vilant]

Sorry, I was quoting the FSM -engine crankcase component capacity 9.6qts with oil filter change.
Now that I think of it, the car was on jack stands for other repairs and I let drain overnight, can't exactly remember how much I put back in.

[Racinfan83]

Paul - I agree on filling the filter, but how do you do that and not dump it all over since the filter mounts "hole down"?? Am I missing something here?
I also looked in my dealer manual and that thing said 8.6 qts... And it provides little to no info on how to do it either - so thats why I'm asking you guys....

[cvette98pacecar]

I just did an oil change last week and got the Ruby ready for her trip. I personally wait overnight to minimize the mess. There is no difference from changing the oil in the Beast to any other car. If you use a quality filter like the Bosch 3401 it has an anti-drain back valve so you should not have a big mess.

[Kevin]

buy 10 quarts, remove oil, fill with oil. i've never let mine drain over night and always get 9+ out

[A26B]

The LT5 has a LOT of nooks & crannies that take a long time to drain back to the pan. The longer you let it drain the better....within reason of course. What this also means, is that you do not get an accurate oil level as soon as the engine is turned off, or even a minute later.

A simple, good procedure.
(1) Put the Zee on a lift, stands, ramps or whatever method you use.
(2) A. Hot drain: Pull the plug, let it drain overnight,
OR
B. Cold drain: Let it sit overnight, then drain.
(3) Replace the filter, no worries about the oil cooler.
(4) Fill with 9-1/2 qts.
(5) Drive it, park it, check the oil level the next day or whenever, add what is shown low on the dipstick. Do not expect all of the added oil to show up immediately on the dipstick. Remember the slow drain-down characteristic.

Correct oil level is observed on a cold engine. A hot LT5 will not show an accurate oil level due to the long drain-down characteristic. Always check oil level on a cold engine.

[Hog]

Would it not be best to drain the oil while hot, then if you wish let it seep overnight?
For some reason I am averse to draining the crankcase while oil is cold. I have it in my head that the cold thick oil, would not transport carbons and other contaminants as well as hotter/warmer oil.

Maybe my methodology is flawed?

peace
Hog

[scottfab]

Did a forum search and didn't find much info on this... so I shall ask
I am used to changing my own oil on my vehicles. Don't know much about this beast - so hoping u guys can tell me. I have the AC PF970C filter already, and I use Mobil 1 10w30 in my other vehicles anyway so good there. How many drain plugs are there, will I need to do anything special with the cooler or filter, how many quarts does it take? Any other hints regarding the oil change process? Thanks....

The club webpage shows this:
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Information/TechNet/%5BAllArticles%5D/tabid/262/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/5/Maintenance-Oil.aspx

There is as many ways to change the oil as there are owners.
Mine is performed this way every 3000mi using full synthetic 10w40 Ultra Pennzoil.
1. jack up car (cold or hot)
2. drain whatever comes out in 5min
3. replace filter and add equal oil to what was drained.
4. start car and check for leaks.
5. check level the next day and do the needful.