What now?

[Funracer]

My plenum and other pieces should arrive tomorrow so prepping
the valley and doing other things while I wait.

I have removed all the under-plenum secondary vacume tubing
and pieces. Yesterday removed the butterflies and actuators and
hardware associated with it.

Pulling the butterflies was actually really easy. Star screws came right out
and I lifted them out carefully and managed not to drop anything:http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0793_zps26004713.jpg

FYI 7mm:http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0794_zpsbfc36fc3.jpg

Now left with this:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0807_zps48513fae.jpg

So now what? Besides a good cleaning (already done) do I remove these pins or can/should I leave them in? If I remove them must I then remove
the butterfly activation rod? If removing the butterfly rods is a PITA I would rather leave them in as I am ready to start putting this thing back together.

Second minor general question: See the actuator mounting plate screw in the pic above. As a matter of procedure do you guys put stuff like that back in the hole (and tighten) or remove it and put in the baggie with all the other parts.

Thanks

[Schrade]

You're pulling your secondaries?

http://www.smileyvault.com/albums/stock/smiley-party0029.gif

[Pete]

They come off easy.
Use the hole in the throttle plates with a big socket/tube over the shaft use the original nut as you tighten the nut it will pull out the bearing
or
You can place te throttle plate and nut with out the socket use two screwdrivers and pry the shaft out they come off easy.

After you pull the shafts out you will see the seal inside leave it in go to your local parts store buy 8 freeze plugs Dorman part # 555-108 use some RTV. Done.

Pete

[Funracer]

You're pulling your secondaries?

http://www.smileyvault.com/albums/stock/smiley-party0029.gif

Yes

[Funracer]

They come off easy.
Use the hole in the throttle plates with a big socket/tube over the shaft use the original nut as you tighten the nut it will pull out the bearing
or
You can place te throttle plate and nut with out the socket use two screwdrivers and pry the shaft out they come off easy.

After you pull the shafts out you will see the seal inside leave it in go to your local parts store buy 8 freeze plugs Dorman part # 555-108 use some RTV. Done.

Pete

I think I got that. I will try it. After pulling the eight pins and plugging the holes I can leave the butterfly rod in place?

[Pete]

I think I got that. I will try it. After pulling the eight pins and plugging the holes I can leave the butterfly rod in place?


What i posted was to remove the butterfly rods and plug them with the freeze plugs.

Pete

[GOLDCYLON]

What i posted was to remove the butterfly rods and plug them with the freeze plugs.

Pete


Concur set them free..... :cheers:

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Rip 'em out

[Funracer]

Done!

Could not find a socket just the right size so I cut a piece of 3/4
diameter PVC 3/4 inches long:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0829_zps7c9ee6a4.jpg

Not a great pic but you get the idea (not mine though-thanks Pete) The pick stuck in the hole keeps it from rotating while you tighten the nut.
All four DS ones popped out smoothly. On PS 3 of the 4 were harder
to remove. Kept stripping the 7mm fine threads on the nut. Also notice I am using 2 washers. I tried it with one but it kept deforming.

FYI by coincidence I already had pulled my starter and coils in order to clean out the mouse condo I found down there. That gave me plenty of
room to work on the rear two secondary rods on each side. Others can chime in but I am not sure you have enough room to slide the butterfly rods out if you left the coil housing/starter in place.

This set really has been handy for this project so far. I picked them up a couple of weeks ago at Sears "just because". I used the 7mm
all afternoon. The set has 10 wrenches from 4 to 11 mm. Upside down oops!

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0835_zps3564cbd8.jpg

So here is the entire secondary mechanicals in one big baggie:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0832_zps42338a2f.jpg

I sure hope I never have to reconstruct all that!

Lastly, went to 5 places today (AutoZone, Home Depot, O'Reillys, West Marine and Ace). When I said "Dorman plug 555-108" I got nuthin'.

NAPA tomorrow.

Update then.

[LGAFF]

FLPENSACOLA2601 North Pace Boulevard(850) 432-330837

O Reillys in Pensecola have them, although its a drive...your local should be able to get them in 1 day

[WVZR-1]

Done!

Lastly, went to 5 places today (AutoZone, Home Depot, O'Reillys, West Marine and Ace). When I said "Dorman plug 555-108" I got nuthin'.

NAPA tomorrow.

Update then.

Sometimes it's just easier to ask for what you want rather than suggest part numbers. You're looking for a 5/8 cup type expansion plug. The Dorman number isn't a direct cross in the NAPA interchange either. If there's a choice in steel or brass, steel will do for you. If they've only brass that's fine also. I believe there should be a couple Carquest facilities also in your area. It's difficult to place AutoZone and OReilleys in the "auto parts" category!

If there's an engine rebuilding service in town then that's also a more likely place to check.

[-=Jeff=-]

Rockauto has them for $0.25 ea

[WVZR-1]

Rockauto has them for $0.25 ea

I don't understand the "fascination" of the Internet parts sourcing. Aside from taking the revenue from your local community that could include "friends, neighbors, your kids activities families and whatever" there's the what will I receive thought. There's a post presently on the CF where the OP is whining about his time spent regarding the receipt of a incorrect part and his taking the time to actually do the install before noticing the difference.

Regarding the plugs and this comment from Pete:


After you pull the shafts out you will see the seal inside leave it in go to your local parts store buy 8 freeze plugs Dorman part # 555-108 use some RTV. Done.

Pete

The part numbered plug is 5/8 and he mentions using RTV. I don't doubt any of that but what's the reason for the RTV? The fact that the 5/8 plug is 15.875mm would maybe a 16mm plug be a better fit? Don't know, never been there but might one day be there. Thought I'd ask.

[-=Jeff=-]

no fascination for internet parts sourcing here, but if you come up out of luck locally that is your next option.

What happened to walking into a parts store and asking for a specific part? I went into a local Napa, looking for a longer wheel stud, told them Knurl and length and threading,
They Said:
What year/model?

I said, I don't know, I have the specs

They said, you have a part number?

I said, I don't have a part #

They said, no part number or make/model, we can't help you

[Pete]

Regarding the plugs and this comment from Pete:



The part numbered plug is 5/8 and he mentions using RTV. I don't doubt any of that but what's the reason for the RTV? The fact that the 5/8 plug is 15.875mm would maybe a 16mm plug be a better fit? Don't know, never been there but might one day be there. Thought I'd ask.

Your probably right,reason for using standard plug could not find metric plugs locally they had to order i didn't wanna wait and went with standard plug.
The use of RTV hate for someone do all that work to have a vacuum leak and then try to figure out which plug is leaking.

Pete

[Funracer]

O'Reillys yesterday:

Whats your model year and car?

That won't help. I am looking for a non-stock part.
Dorman plug 555-108.

He looks it up. Nuthin'.

They look like a small freeze plug. Do you know what a
freeze plug is?

Honestly, no.

Sigh. At least he was honest.

[Funracer]

FLPENSACOLA2601 North Pace Boulevard(850) 432-330837

O Reillys in Pensacola have them, although its a drive...your local should be able to get them in 1 day

Thanks you my friend! I was in Pensacola all day Tuesday. Its 60 miles
each way. If I do not get these locally today I will probably order them
and do everything when I get back first week of May.

Autozone, et. al. list this item in there national inventory but I
was hoping to walk in and grab and go. In retrospect I should have begun my search earlier.

Later

[Funracer]

Sometimes it's just easier to ask for what you want rather than suggest part numbers. You're looking for a 5/8 cup type expansion plug. The Dorman number isn't a direct cross in the NAPA interchange either. If there's a choice in steel or brass, steel will do for you. If they've only brass that's fine also. I believe there should be a couple Carquest facilities also in your area. It's difficult to place AutoZone and OReilleys in the "auto parts" category!

If there's an engine rebuilding service in town then that's also a more likely place to check.

Thanks for the extra info. Always a good thing. I'm on it today.

[WVZR-1]

Your probably right,reason for using standard plug could not find metric plugs locally they had to order i didn't wanna wait and went with standard plug.
The use of RTV hate for someone do all that work to have a vacuum leak and then try to figure out which plug is leaking.

Pete

I was only interested in knowing that if the RTV was intentionally used as a "compensating" compound for maybe the tolerances there. A cup expansion plug is done with a taper to accomplish a secure fit and generally wouldn't require a chemical package. I've seen some use Permatex and I guess RTV is an equivalent for the operation you mention. Just curios!!!

I was always told cup expansion plugs were installed "dry" and not installed using anything other than an installation tool or a socket that is a good fit to the inner diameter of the cup. Never the edges! You of course aren't doing oil or coolant!!

[Funracer]

Found the plugs at Carquest for $1 each. That is the good news.

The bad news is they were a bi-atch to put in. The problem is the
lack of access because the heads are still attached to the block. If
heads are pulled banging these in with a hammer and drift would be a snap.
The butterfly rod cavities are angled slightly downward when the heads in place. There is no way to get a square hit on the plug. Pulling the heads is a no go for me, so had to go to plan "B". Be forewarned, the following picture may give the Z purist heartburn:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0843_zps860ed6f0.jpg
I bought a 1 inch C clamp at Ace Hardware for $2and wrapped the end in electric tape. It fit perfectly over the intake wall and into the Dorman expansion plug. I thought I was home free. I screwed that thing as tight as I dared and it would NOT push that plug into the cavity. Then, forgive
me, I resorted to the mechanics last resort-vise grips. Again no luck.

After several hours of messing with this (yes I tried hammer and wood block, drift, screw driver and socket head) I began to contemplate another
option, like filling the hole with RTV or JB weld or plastic bolt and nut, etc.

Then, since I could not get them in anyway, went to plan "C":
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0849_zps24566ad9.jpg
I re-beveled the rounded edge of the expansion plugs and made them
just a bit smaller and took just a bit off the skirt as well:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0850_zps8ac0956f.jpg

Voila!
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0844_zps48590100.jpg
Pushed that thing in finally! Here are 3 of the 4 PS done. I gave up
at 8 PM tonight and the other side will have to wait:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0851_zpsec05bfc4.jpg

This was really an unexpected PITA. If you want to pull secondaries with
the heads in place I would give serious consideration to stopping at this point:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/yellowLT1/IMAG0807_zps48513fae.jpg
Other obligations backing up so it will be a few days before I get back to it.

Later

[Funracer]

Finally got all 8 Dorman plugs pressed in. I had to make them all smaller
to fit - see photo above. They are very tight and sealed. Carquest had a
great selection of plugs and I tried the next smaller size 555-109 but they were too small.

Began reassembly today. Cleaned some Gorilla tape sticky off the
top of the heads and put down Jerry's IH gaskets and dropped on the
IH's, Loctite and torqued all 16 IH bolts per FSM.

Then decided to put on the short fat breather hoses that run from
the breather box to the IH's. Screeeeeeech.

That was the sound of progress halted. After 20 minutes trying to
manipulate them into position I gave up, loosened all 16 torqued/loctited
bolts to lift the IH's about 1/4" to get the breather hoses into position.
Retorqued and called it a night.

Hope to finish tomorrow and then troubleshoot.

[LGAFF]

breath deep, we have all been there

[Pete]

Fun racer you did not need t grind the plugs.

All you needed was a deep socket and hammer,socket needs to be smaller the the freeze plug,if you use a socket that fits tight it won't let the freeze plugs to collapse.

Pete

[Funracer]

Fun racer you did not need t grind the plugs.

All you needed was a deep socket and hammer,socket needs to be smaller the the freeze plug,if you use a socket that fits tight it won't let the freeze plugs to collapse.

Pete

When you did this were the heads on the block or on the work bench?

Mine are on the block and plugs are angled down (slightly) toward the floor of the valley. I tried the hammer thing for two days and could never get
one started squarely. No room to swing the hammer properly.

There needs to be a better solution to this issue for those that want to pull secondaries.

Thanks