Power Mirrors are inop

[USAFPILOT]

I am unable to determine the cause. I replaced the fuse and have pulled apart the door panel and all the wires are intact. neither side works. I am thinking possibly the switch has gone bad. What should I do to test the switch?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I am unable to determine the cause. I replaced the fuse and have pulled apart the door panel and all the wires are intact. neither side works. I am thinking possibly the switch has gone bad. What should I do to test the switch?

You reminded me about my C5 mirrors that I am supposed to install one day and while trying to figure out the wiring since the schematic read different than the mirrors I had, I consulted with well known Technical Editor of a Corvette magazine and CEO Chris Petris: http://petrisenterprises.com/

Here is what he told me that might help you in this case:

"There is no way to hurt the mirrors during testing to find out what color wires do what. Set up two leads one positive one negative connected to a 12 volt source. Connect the positive lead to one terminal ion the connector and then touch the negative lead to another terminal until you find the right combination".

This would bypass the switch and if the mirror moves up/down/left/right then you will know the switch is inop.

[USAFPILOT]

i took the switch partially apart and cleaned the contacts, the side of the "mother board" that is visible doesn't look burnt melted etc. The switch still lights up so it is getting pwr to the switch, just nothing leaves it as far as I can tell.

If I was to do the above suggestion and attempt to pwr the mirrors manually what would be an example of a 12 volt power source. I cant just hook up to the car battery can I?

I am an electrical novice when it comes to this stuff. I found a switch for sale at White Racing. I guess I can throw a hundred bucks at it.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I am no electrical genius (just a novice trying to help) at all so I hate to give recommendations, but from my experience you have a couple of choices.

I have Gordon Killebrew's wireless circuit tester and love this thing almost as much as my wife: http://gordonkillebrew.net/pages/800740/index.htm
I have used this so much to test circuits and love that all I do is put it to the wire and ground as stated and the red light and buzz lets me know there is or is not power source........it truly is awesome and one of my best tools for the investment.


If you separate the connector and test the switch side with this or a simple other tester that hooks to ground with the light in the handle or otherwise you will be able to see if there is power after the switch when you attempt to use the direction control on switch you are at the right terminal per color wire and FSM, etc.

The other test using a postive and negative lead as Chris Petris mentions is on the connector side to mirror. The driver side would be easier since so close to the battery or other positive source you might select. It is a little bit of a pain to take off the panel and do it from the connector and it might be a better way from the switch itself. I have these long leads both red (positive), black negative with probe on the end and clamps to battery post or orther power/ground lead that I use for powering and testing.

It sounds like you did the right thing to clean up the connector etc. and what is suspect is the switch since both sides don't work at the same time and if it was known working before. I would continue looking for a switch, even if a good used one from Corvette recycling place, etc. If you just want new and can't find it otherwise the from White Racing or other supplier.

I'm sure some of the smart electrical guys here will give you better recommendations and easier methods.

Craig:handshak:

[USAFPILOT]

I guess I fiddle farted with it enough to get it working again, for now. It is definitely the switch. I guess I new one may be in my future.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I guess I fiddle farted with it enough to get it working again, for now. It is definitely the switch. I guess I new one may be in my future.

Great news! Best wishes for a resolution. :handshak:

[WVZR-1]

FSM 8A-147-0 thru 2

Three step straight forward procedure. If you don't have the FSM the $100 you were going to toss to KW would be better spent on the FSM. There's other jumper configurations I believe that would confirm but the FSM seemed the more simple. BTW the lamp is NOT powered by the same 12V.

*Posted this before seeing the "fiddled with" in post #5