LT5 Engine Paint

[Starman]

There have been many comments and options regarding LT Engine paint over the years. The original paint has not been available for several years, but if you are only seeking to match the appearance of the stock finish, Duplicolor Engine Paint in Cast Aluminum DE1650 is pretty available for $5-$6 per can at Advance Auto Parts.

[Z51JEFF]

Lingenfelter also sells the same shade of silver.Cant remember what I paid for a can but I do know it was alot more than $6.00.

[Kevin]

the black lettering is basic bbq black paint I've recently learned.

I really with they would have taken 15 seconds and cleared the damn motor prior to assembly

[LancePearson]

I've seen the letters looking really good but I've been hesitant to paint them. How does everyone do it, with a fine artists small brush dipped carefully? I'm not a very good "finish" person so it's been left alone so far.

[Jagdpanzer]

Fill in the letters with what ever paint color you prefer then after a few hours wipe off the top surface with a neatly folded shop towel soaked in mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove the excess paint.

[Scrrem]

I'm right there with you Lance, I can't do the small detailed work like that. My guess would be a fine brush and just wipe any overlap paint quickly before it sets.

I removed my parts and sent them to the pro (Mark H.) and they came back looking awesome.

Rich

[LancePearson]

Jag,
Thanks. I will try that next time I have a little time. Mine are in good shape but could be crisper. I can try that with one and see if it's in my skill range. Sounds pretty doable to me given their countersunk nature.

If I were a carpenter they would characterize me as a rough carpenter able to build floors and walls and roofs but would hire someone other than me to do the finish trim work on the house!

[Paul Workman]

I agree w/ Phil. I had good luck too brushing the paint in with an artist's brush (round, 1/8") and immediately wiped the excess off with a QTip dampenened with acitone (finger nail polish remover).

Far as Duplicolor goes, you will get some yellowing with the heat. I believe Lee has an alternate recommendtion.

[LancePearson]

Paul, et al,
I actually bought some q tips that are about 7 or 8" long on wood sticks which I use in the shop that would work for that. They are quite rigid which helps big handed oafs like me. The other tools recently bought I find handy especially with the work I've been doing on trim inside and the radio area over the tunnel where screws like to fall and hide is a 24" long extendable pointer with a nickel sized round magnetic head on it. I dropped one screw and it was blind down there but stuck that in and found it as it "clanked" to the magnet and probed further and found the other three missing screws from prior owner's who had dropped them in there. It is extremely handy. I also now have two 12" long forceps, one straight, one curved for extending my reach into small areas better than big hands. Cost on Amazon for the pair: $12.

[Jagdpanzer]

I see Jerry now carries engine paint
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11&products_id=658

[LancePearson]

you need some tools to paint and since I mentioned the tools I just got to help where my hands are too big I'll show them. The pen is normal pen size and the forceps from Amazon were $12, the set of four 16" long needle nose pliers was more, zero, 30 degree bend, 45 degree and these, 90 degree so with the magnetic probe, the wire flex probe and these things I can pretty much get most things now, big hands and all. Thanks for the painting methods...will try when it comes up on the list.

[ZZZZZR1]

I'm right there with you Lance, I can't do the small detailed work like that. My guess would be a fine brush and just wipe any overlap paint quickly before it sets.

I removed my parts and sent them to the pro (Mark H.) and they came back looking awesome.

Rich


Rich....

That engine looks awesome!!!!!!!!!!

:saluting:

[vilant]

Rich....

That engine looks awesome!!!!!!!!!!


I agree:thumbsup:. I thought our plenums were powder-coated...no? Is that something that is done aftermarket?

[Kevin]

I agree:thumbsup:. I thought our plenums were powder-coated...no? Is that something that is done aftermarket?

paint from the factory, pc/clear, paint/clear is aftermarket

[vilant]

paint from the factory, pc/clear, paint/clear is aftermarket
Gotcha, thanks. Wonder how well the spray can paint blends, and if the heat will effect it?

[Daniel_Mc]

Paint the letters first then (after they dry) fill with wax or wax type epoxy. Clean the plenum or cam cover and paint. After that remove the filling. That is how we PC'd the plenum on the Z. Did the white first then did the black.

Daniel

[Starman]

To paint the lettering, I use a Uni brand (oil based) paint marker available from most major office supply stores. They come in wide and narrow tip. We used these in the automotive industry to signify certain quality checks had been performed on parts. If you goof, a quick clean up with mineral spirits can save you.

As far as the Duplicolor yellowing, have not noticed it with the Cast Aluminum color, but the clear definitely yellows.

[RHanselman]

Lingenfelter also sells the same shade of silver.Cant remember what I paid for a can but I do know it was alot more than $6.00.

I know Jerry has it...

Cheers,
RH

[Paul Workman]

As far as the Duplicolor yellowing, have not noticed it with the Cast Aluminum color, but the clear definitely yellows.

That may be the problem then...The clear coat.

P.

[2ZR1S]

I've seen the letters looking really good but I've been hesitant to paint them. How does everyone do it, with a fine artists small brush dipped carefully? I'm not a very good "finish" person so it's been left alone so far.

Buy the automotive touch up paint with a ball marker on one end of the cap. I did this and it turned out great and was easy. Just "dab" until you get it filled.