Plenum pull advice

[mgbrv8]

Okay I have finally gotten back in the states and have some time. I am going to pull my Plenum on my 91 Z this weekend so I can rebuild my starter. Is there anything else I need to attend to While I'm in there. All advice and links are welcome about anything My car has 88,000 miles on it.

Dave

[zr1mom]

Look for brittle vacuum hoses, lose connections, oil and dirt in the valley. Check the drain hole is clear.

[Dynomite]

Look for brittle vacuum hoses, lose connections, oil and dirt in the valley. Check the drain hole is clear.

In general like ZR1mom suggests :thumbsup:
Compressed Air works great from below on the valley drain tube just to the rear of the oil pan on passenger side.
Now........get ready for some fun :D

Oh......drain some coolant first so when you remove the plenum the Throttle Body (TB) coolant is not getting into the Injector Housing. Or....here we go.....;)
Block the TB coolant when you are there :p

LT5 Eliminated Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html)

[jimmy b.]

check the crankcase breather hoses and especially the clamps mine were loose and letting oil leak out of them, also the vent cover bolts,gasket,etc,etc.

[LGAFF]

remove that pesky additional aluminum from the runners if you have not already:)

[mgbrv8]

How much coolant should I drain for a upper plenum pull??

Dave

[mgbrv8]

I removed one and a eighth gallons by tapping into the line that goes to the radiator from the coolant resevior like is depicted below is this sufficient for a upper plenum pull?

Dave

[Dynomite]

I removed one and a eighth gallons by tapping into the line that goes to the radiator from the coolant resevior like is depicted below is this sufficient for a upper plenum pull?

Dave

I would think that would be close......you want to get below the top of the IH coolant manifolds. You want to have a couple of Jerry's Plenum gaskets on hand also. I just drain coolant out of the radiator petcock on lower passenger side of radiator. I also have on hand a gallon of NAPA antifreeze to replenish the coolant. Or a good time to flush the coolant system and replace coolant.

http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/213967.jpg

PLENUM
Plenum pull TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=955)
Plenum Removal Simplified TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=138239)
LT5 IH, Fuel Rails, Plenum Install Tricks (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-2.html#post1581458207)
Plenum pull questons (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7614 )
Plenum pull tools and parts (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=110797)
Plenum pull parts (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14452)
Under the plenum (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=66743)
Plenum bolts install (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=77929)
Porting (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=69642)
Plenum & Cam cover restored pictures (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=88952)
Plenum gasket drawing (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=61172)
Ebay ZR1 LT5 Plenum (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=ZR1+LT5+plenum&_sacat=0&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=ZR1+LT5+engine&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313)

[mgbrv8]

Here is a link to what I have done so far

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201021415884459.2217036.1439230280&type=1&l=bf12a0aa41

it looks like my a/c compressor is leaking and its a little oily on the vent box and looks like some one did a little mild porting in the past, what do you all think any observations or suggestions??

[LGAFF]

If you are referring to the cresent shaped cuts in the IH to head surface that is factory matching, not porting done later.

PORT IT!!!

[mgbrv8]

Ive added more pics to the link above

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201021415884459.2217036.1439230280&type=1&l=bf12a0aa41

I did alot today and stated on the starter and found a couple weak bearing and found my contact problem

[mgbrv8]

I have a question about the these injectors what are the part number of the seals??

Dave

[A26B]

I have a question about the these injectors what are the part number of the seals??

Dave

VITON (for gasoline with ethanol blend)

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=384

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=385

BUNA (for 100% gasoline)

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=34

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=21

[mgbrv8]

Thanks Jerry

Well it looks like Im going to need a new charcoal canister

Dave

[Paul Workman]

Regarding the starter, I seem to recall some discussion on the board suggesting starter electrical contacts issues begin showing up on some cars at about the 30k miles. At 40k, the copper ring on the solenoid "slider" in my '90 was quite pitted and carbon-looking tracing covering the surface was nearly complete. AND! The contact posts were badly erroded.

I bought a kit off ebay and discovered that (new) thrust pin (that pushes the starter gear to mesh with the ring gear) was about 5mm short . So, I used the new contact posts, but R&R'd the copper ring on the original slider with some emory cloth. Works fine now for another 25k miles so far.

As for the bearings being "weak", that hasn't come up, long as I've watched this site, FWIW, some 5 years now.

Enjoy your toy!

P.

[scottfab]

Ive added more pics to the link above

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201021415884459.2217036.1439230280&type=1&l=bf12a0aa41

I did alot today and stated on the starter and found a couple weak bearing and found my contact problem

Great set of pics on FB. You may want to take some time to label and comment each one while it's all fresh in your mind.

There's lots of good tips already on this post (and a few not so good)
I'm not going to suggest a lot of modifications or ripping stuff out but I will suggest you check the operation of the secondary actuators by putting a vacuum on them. Watch that the pull all the way out and do so at relatively the same time. AND cut yourself a set of rubber plenum gaskets. They can be used over and over and over for a decade or more without ripping apart and having to repeatedly buy new ones. I used an inner tube in 99 and have never had to replace them. Or you can buy some flat rubber stock. There are sites that sell it.

I do find it easier to drain fluid by just opening the drain plug. Who needs radiator fluid in the mouth. I've also used a suction device straight in the fill tank but still the drain is easier.

The bolts holding the plenum can mix and match. No need to track exactly which hole they went in. Not so for the water pump. I see you have a pic of a new water pump. There is I think three different size bolts use and 18 total. (weird). The one that goes through the AC into the water pump is the most unusual and one of the ones that goes into the head is reallll short. Don't put a long one there !

Sure brings back memories seeing the inside of the starter again.
I just sanded and polished the ring and contacts. Good to go.

Be very careful reconnecting the rear electrical connections to the plenum. Don't smash/bend a pin on the wide one.

[mgbrv8]

I am pepping for tomorrow inspecting new and old parts to make sure everything is in order, and making some gaskets out of some sheets of 1/16 Polysiloxane silicon I have around. I have one more bearing to come in and the starter can go back together. I also have made some plates to go on on the pcv vent plumbing to help hold the assembly together.

Dave :cheers:

[Dynomite]

I am pepping for tomorrow inspecting new and old parts to make sure everything is in order, and making some gaskets out of some sheets of 1/16 Polysiloxane silicon I have around. I have one more bearing to come in and the starter can go back together. I also have made some plates to go on on the pcv vent plumbing to help hold the assembly together.

Dave :cheers:

Great photos...keep them comming.....I assume it is OK if I copy some of your photos for my own informative use as long as I give you credit?
I would appreciate that immensely :handshak:

You take excellent pictures :thumbsup:
Especially the parts lay out.

Without labeling or mentioning anything, a Parts Lay Out Photo is priceless by itself :thumbsup:

mgbrv8 Photos of LT5 Starter Parts (March 2013)
From mgbrv8 Plenum Pull to Rebuild a Starter (http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19624)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/230fa8e9-123f-4861-970a-76a6cc140db5.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/Starter.jpg

Thanks,
Cliff

[mgbrv8]

Of course its okay Dynomite. I know I need to label all the pics but I am kinda wrapped up in the logistics of the job right now, I will once it all done. My club has a lot of fun events and trips this month and I want it to be ready and reliable in time.

Dave:cheers:

[GOLDCYLON]

Great photos...keep them comming.....I assume it is OK if I copy some of your photos for my own informative use as long as I give you credit?
I would appreciate that immensely :handshak:

You take excellent pictures :thumbsup:
Especially the parts lay out.

Without labeling or mentioning anything, a Parts Lay Out Photo is priceless :thumbsup:

mgbrv8 Photos of LT5 Starter Parts (March 2013)
From mgbrv8 Plenum Pull to Rebuild a Starter (http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19624)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/230fa8e9-123f-4861-970a-76a6cc140db5.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/Starter.jpg

Thanks,
Cliff

Great photos of the starter.

[scottfab]

.....snip...
I also have made some plates to go on on the pcv vent plumbing to help hold the assembly together.

Dave :cheers:

Good solution for the loose PVC tube.
I did this in 1998. If you look close you'll see
a screw head with washer. When you tighten the nut on
the other side it pinches the rubber making the connection
tight again. It slides on/off tight.
(sorry about the low res pic)
http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=199&pictureid=2059

[mgbrv8]

I rebuilt my starter, all new bearings and bushings works great. but the idea of it happening again really bothered me I really don't like this solenoids design so to give me a way out if it happens again I put a cable running from the stater motor wire ( the Black one) and spliced the purple solenoid wire (the blue one) and sheathed them in abrasive resistant loom material. Now theses wires will be coiled and insulated at the back of the plenum so if it acts up again I can get them and add a external solenoid so my starter can work. I know there will be mixed opinions on this but being a mechanical engineering I am very OCD about this stuff.

Dave :cheers:

[mgbrv8]

Are both maps sensors Under the hood the same part number??

Dave

[scottfab]

Are both maps sensors Under the hood the same part number??

Dave

Both MAP sensors? I only know of one.

[Paul Workman]

Are both maps sensors Under the hood the same part number??

Dave

Only one MAP sensor (#7 - see diagram) at the back of the plenum. Perhaps you're thinking of the (secondaries) pressure switch (#11) under the '90s ECM (for certain) which at some point was later located the plenum, if I recall correctly. Anyway - no two MAPs in the diagram.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/plenumvacuumcircuitsLT5Large.jpg

P.

[mgbrv8]

Both MAP sensors? I only know of one.

I know there is one behind the intake near the firewall. But I was referring to the one under the computer and above the battery.

Dave:handshak:

[mgbrv8]

Today I got the new water pump on and began routing vacuum lines and installed some of my new solenoids in the brackets.

[scottfab]

I know there is one behind the intake near the firewall. But I was referring to the one under the computer and above the battery.

Dave:handshak:

I think that is the vacuum sensor for the secondaries.

[mgbrv8]

I think that is the vacuum sensor for the secondaries.

So would that be the same parts number??

Dave

[scottfab]

So would that be the same parts number??

Dave

I have no idea but I do know the only time I've even heard of a MAP sensor failing was when the inlet tube broke off.

[mgbrv8]

I have no idea but I do know the only time I've even heard of a MAP sensor failing was when the inlet tube broke off.

The one behind the plenium had a wet oily film in it when you pull the hose. My guess is that there is a rubber diaphragm in there and the oil might cause problems and a false reading.

Dave

[A26B]

I know there is one behind the intake near the firewall. But I was referring to the one under the computer and above the battery.

Dave:handshak:
The one you are referring to, under the ECM (later moved to underside of plenum, forward of DIS Module) is an MDP Sensor, Manifold Differential Pressure. They look alike, but are not interchangeable. In fact, the harness plugs will not interchange, i.e. you cannot plug a MAP sensor at the MDP location nor an MDP sensor at the MAP location.

We stock both sensors. If you want to see them, go to the web store & search by the PN's.

You can tell them apart visually if you know what to look for.
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/SensorsMAPampMDP_zpsd7ba8556.jpg

[mgbrv8]

The one you are referring to, under the ECM (later moved to underside of plenum, forward of DIS Module) is an MDP Sensor, Manifold Differential Pressure. They look alike, but are not interchangeable. In fact, the harness plugs will not interchange, i.e. you cannot plug a MAP sensor at the MDP location nor an MDP sensor at the MAP location.

We stock both sensors. If you want to see them, go to the web store & search by the PN's.

You can tell them apart visually if you know what to look for.
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/SensorsMAPampMDP_zpsd7ba8556.jpg


Jerry thank you, in your professional opinion Jerry should the oily map be changed out or should it be fine? Also is this normal to get oil up there or is this caused by another problem in the system? The engine has 80k great compression and no blow by.

Also thank you Jerry for gettin the fuel systems orings to my door so quickly.

Dave:handshak:

[scottfab]

So would that be the same parts number??

Dave

On page 6E3 A-4 of the 90 FSM it is called a "Vacuum Sensor" and feeds the "Secondary Port Throttle Valve Vacuum Sensor Signal" line to the ECM. I've never heard of one of these failing.

[A26B]

The oil you are seeing is normal, comes to the plenum via the PCV system when crankcase pressure is at its greatest.... WOT/high rpm. The LT5 unique PCV system with it's dual PCV valves was the result of crankcase pressure experience during development. After playing hard and being shut down for awhile, oil in the plenum will sometimes cause a puff of smoke on startup, due entirely to oil draining down the plenum runners.

I've never installed an oil catch can, but do think it is a good idea. Keeping oil out of the intake is always a good idea.

I wouldn't be concerned about the oily residue. It's only a problem if it collects in the hose and interferes with the vacuum sensing.

[scottfab]

...snip...

Delete TB coolant and Plenum Pulls will even be simpler. See LT5 Eliminated Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html)

...snip...

To keep the plenum from developing ice never bypass the TB.
Early engine development discovered in a catastrophic way
that ice can build then release into the heads. Depends on environmental conditions of course.

To "burp" the coolant simply leave the driver's side TB hose pointing up
as you fill the coolant reservoir. When you see a bit of coolant come out of the TB you're done. No blowing the LT5 needed. :p

[Dynomite]

I've never installed an oil catch can, but do think it is a good idea. Keeping oil out of the intake is always a good idea.



Add an Oil Catch Can. See LT5 Added Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html#post1579114180)

Delete TB coolant and Plenum Pulls will even be simpler. See LT5 Eliminated Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html)

Now for those that are skeered about refilling with coolant......there is a trick to make sure no air pockets in the water pump area (air locked water pump which is typical for an LT5 with a new coolant refill). See Filling With Coolant and the Air Locked Water Pump (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-5.html#post1581827089)


To "burp" the coolant simply leave the driver's side TB hose pointing up as you fill the coolant reservoir.
When you see a bit of coolant come out of the TB you're done. No blowing the LT5 needed.

Trouble is.......no amount of "burping by gravity" will get that air out of the air locked water pump (you can blow (with your own lungs) a pressure of 5 ft of water as a comparison to holding the TB hose only a few inches higher). You may get lucky and the water pump spin up a little water to start flushing air but usually that is not the case.

The problem is that the Water Pump cavity is above the outlet ports (red line in photo). Air gets stalled above the water line and the pump becomes air locked spinning the air with no water movement.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/C%20Engine%20LT5/947bedc9-e7b2-4998-9234-45830bc8f7e7.jpg

[Hib Halverson]

(snip)
Early engine development discovered in a catastrophic way
that ice can build then release into the heads. Depends on environmental conditions of course.(snip)



"scottfab"...Please, cite the source of your information about early LT5 development and TB ice being ingested into the engine.

[mgbrv8]

Today was a bust Everything got in the way of the zr1. I hope tomorrow is better.

Dave

[VetteVet]

Today was a bust Everything got in the way of the zr1. I hope tomorrow is better.

Dave

Dave,

Tomorrow is always a better day!!!

Jep

[mgbrv8]

Sorry for the long delay with the updates its been a little hectic around here. Today I installed my new injectors with new orings, plumbed all my vacuum systems and zip tied all the connectors and pulled my ruptured carbon canister. Tomorrow I am going to get all the carbon out of the lines and install the new carbon canister, do a final torque down on the water pump, reinstall the cooling hoses, a pull the A/C compressor so I can rebuild it sense my oring kit came in today. I want to thank all of you for all the great advice. Anything else I might be missing that I need to attend to???

Here is a link of the pictures of the project so far I need to label them and will once I finish up.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201021415884459.2217036.1439230280&type=1&l=bf12a0aa41


Dave

[Dynomite]

pull the A/C compressor so I can rebuild it sense my oring kit came in today. I want to thank all of you for all the great advice. Anything else I might be missing that I need to attend to???

Here is a link of the pictures of the project so far I need to label them and will once I finish up.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201021415884459.2217036.1439230280&type=1&l=bf12a0aa41
Dave

Nice photos.

Thanks for the photos and discussion....appreciate it :thumbsup:

Cliff

[mgbrv8]

Im sure once I finish up I will work on better write ups. Now Hammer was the one that suggested replacing the vac can for the secondaries and Im glad he did I opened up my can and it was a mess also the one way valve had a weak leak. Is there any inline Vac filter I could get to keep the contaminants out?

Dave

[Hammer]

Im sure once I finish up I will work on better write ups. Now Hammer was the one that suggested replacing the vac can for the secondaries and Im glad he did I opened up my can and it was a mess also the one way valve had a weak leak. Is there any inline Vac filter I could get to keep the contaminants out?

Dave

Glad you did that Dave. Dwight Eickmeier was actually the guy that tore one apart and discovered how dirty they get. He showed us all at a PNW Gathering at Jeff's house. I always like to pass on good information and in this case the cost is minimal, so why not do it. Next time I go under the penum, I'm replacing mine.

Nice write up.

[mgbrv8]

Thanks Hammer shes coming along nicely. Today I jumped in and started cleaning the carbon particles out of the lines. This became a lot more of a job than just an air hose and a vacuum it took alot longer then i thought it would. lts Because of the particles shape they would pack in and tighten up into tight little blocks So I had to completely remove the lines and system out of the car Once the line was out I could tap it on the obstructed areas and finally break loose all those particles and then they could be blasted out with the air hose. I also attached some pictures of All my vacuum plumbing to see if I missed anything important.

Dave

[scottfab]

"scottfab"...Please, cite the source of your information about early LT5 development and TB ice being ingested into the engine.

I did something wrong with my thread notifies. I did not get a notice on this post. Separate issue.

source was email thread of 98 time frame. It should be in the archive. Strange you would not remember it. My recollections was that it was from a credible source Graham (sp) or JVD or ???
As memory serves two engines were lost.
Other topics of the era were the reason for the Two PVC valves (not just one) when oil got all tossed out of the block during overnight engine tests or some such thing. Somebody on here that goes back to that time frame might remember more.

I'd look for it but currently up to my eyeballs in hospital visits to a critically injured family member (pedestrian run over in a crosswalk)
If you can't find it and really need the info for some research I'll do the foot work later.
Right now, I need to run to the airport again to pickup more family.

So, Hib
You still recommending Dexcool for the LT5?
Do you have any sources stating that it's ok?

[VetteVet]

I did something wrong with my thread notifies. I did not get a notice on this post. Separate issue.

source was email thread of 98 time frame. It should be in the archive. Strange you would not remember it. My recollections was that it was from a credible source Graham (sp) or JVD or ???
As memory serves two engines were lost.
Other topics of the era were the reason for the Two PVC valves (not just one) when oil got all tossed out of the block during overnight engine tests or some such thing. Somebody on here that goes back to that time frame might remember more.

I'd look for it but currently up to my eyeballs in hospital visits to a critically injured family member (pedestrian run over in a crosswalk)
If you can't find it and really need the info for some research I'll do the foot work later.
Right now, I need to run to the airport again to pickup more family.

So, Hib
You still recommending Dexcool for the LT5?
Do you have any sources stating that it's ok?

Scott,

Prayers for your family member, Brother.

Jep

[Dynomite]

Im sure once I finish up I will work on better write ups. Now Hammer was the one that suggested replacing the vac can for the secondaries and Im glad he did I opened up my can and it was a mess also the one way valve had a weak leak. Is there any inline Vac filter I could get to keep the contaminants out?

Dave

Thanks John (Hammer) for that suggestion......
What are the contaminants in the Secondary Vacuum Reservoir?
Where do the contaminants come from? (Sucked in at the leaks?, failed Vacuum system components?).

Unlike Contaminants in the Fuel EVAP Purge System which come from a failed Charcoal Canister itself.....Charcoal canister replace (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14701)

Secondary Vacuum System
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/LT5/SecondaryVacuumSys.jpg

I also attached some pictures of All my vacuum plumbing to see if I missed anything important.
Dave

I do not think you missed anything at all. I see you have ties on ALL the secondary vacuum lines ;)

Check those secondary canisters for smooth operation. You can just apply a vacuum to the cannisters with plenum off to see if the canisters and secondaries function/open smoothly.

Cliff

[mgbrv8]

Some of the contaminants look like moisture residue the rest seems like a fine dust maybe form vac leaks, really makes you wonder what lurks in all of out vac systems. I doing my best to handle all systems so I don't have to do this again for a very long time.

Dave

[carter200]

Sorry to hear about your family members issue. Hope all turns out well...

[mgbrv8]

I am debating if i should put a newer style condenser or add a fan to my system while I have it open during my a/c compressor rebuild, besides new orings and Orfic tube and accumulator. I live in south tx and we hit well in to the 100s for long periods. I've hear the r134 systems have more fins per inch.

Dave

[mgbrv8]

Okay I was mounting my Water pump pulley when I noticed there was more resistance in the water pump then when I spun it on the bench. So I pulled it back off just to find that the impeller was touching the casting in two spots. So I put it on my lathe and cut 8 Thousands of a inch off. That brought the back of the impeller distance to the Water pump casting to exactly the same tolerance As the factory unit I should have checked that before I assembled the pump. I should never have assumed a new pump would be perfect. And I'm going to add a surprise that I think the members might like while I have the pump off.

Dave

[mgbrv8]

From what people have said its hard to purge the air out of the water pump between the inlet and outlet of the pump. So it eliviate any unwanted air I drilled a and tapped a pipe plug in the water pump so I dont have any air pockets.

[Dynomite]

From what people have said its hard to purge the air out of the water pump between the inlet and outlet of the pump. So it eliviate any unwanted air I drilled a and tapped a pipe plug in the water pump so I dont have any air pockets.

That actually will work :D

An extreme measure but a good one as there is no other way to be sure you get that air out of an air locked water pump other than blowing it out (actually blowing coolant into the water pump area) from drivers side with long radiator hose connected to Drivers side Injector Housing Manifold. With your modification we know we got the air out and we did not blow that water pump air into the passenger side Injector Housing ;)

See Filling With Coolant and the Air Locked Water Pump (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-5.html#post1581827089)

[mgbrv8]

Ya it's not a nos pump and the Z isn't a NCRS candidate so I figure what the heck.

Dave

[scottfab]

"scottfab"...Please, cite the source of your information about early LT5 development and TB ice being ingested into the engine.

Ok I spent a few minutes searching the archive. One thing I learned was the the posted archives on the ZR1netregistry.com page don't seem to be complete. Some dates don't show up.
I have some posts in my own archive that don't appear in the official one.
Having said that. I have not found specifically what I was looking for.
I found stuff close to it but not it.

Over the years the subject of ice in the TB/plenum has come up multiple times. I don't think it's in doubt that the TB receives coolant water as a counter measure for same but only how often or how likely it would be to occur.

Below is a snipped parts of a thread. To do your own looking search for either "icing" or "ice formation".

__________________________________________________ __
Message-ID: <33426637.2FE4@pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 13:59:21 +0000
Reply-To: Gary Livick <glivick@PACBELL.NET>
Sender: "ZR-1 Corvette enthusiast list." <ZR1NET@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From: Gary Livick <glivick@PACBELL.NET>
Subject: Re: TECH: MAT sensor relocating
To: ZR1NET@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
X-Lines: 27
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Length: 1327
Status: RO
X-Status: $$$$
X-UID: 0000000389

Hi again Jim:

Yesterday, we were talking about ice formation in venturi flow. I
talked to a flight instructor, and he states as follows: Carb ice can
form at temperatures as high as 72° F as long as atmospheric conditions
are supportive. He states however that it is more typically seen at
between 40 and 55°.

I just gotta say this here--- there were a bunch of highly-skilled and
well-funded engineers and technicians put to the task of developing the
LT5. Engine specialists like Callaway, Lingenfelter and Rippie can make
improvements to performance in part because they do not have all of the
limitations imposed on their work that Lotus did, such as noise, overall
streetability, reliability, and specific fuel consumption. It is my
considered opinion, with the usual qualifications, that unless a ZR1
owner who uses his or her car for pleasure driving is willing to spend
the money to send his or her car over to DRM for the whole package, he
or she should leave the thing cold, dead stock and live with the 400
HP. If you just have to mess with it, only do bolt-on, reversible
changes that are developed by engine builders like Rippie or guys on the
net whom you trust, and who know what they are talking about.

[Dynomite]

My ZR-1 is not an airplane but close :D
I fly airplanes and use carb heat on long approaches to landing when throttle is pulled way back to prevent icing. Under full power no carb heat.
My ZR-1 does full power landings :sign10:

Any one that suggests I should not mess around with modifications (only do bolt ons) on my LT5 are crazy folks and I think mgbrv8 will agree with me here :handshak:

Maybe Scott should just delete this post Scottfab suggests to keep the plenum from developing ice never bypass the TB (http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=165935) as well as the post above if he cannot nail down the facts rather than tell you to chase the facts down for him ;)

Ya it's not a nos pump and the Z isn't a NCRS candidate so I figure what the heck.
Dave

:thumbsup:

[Hib Halverson]

TB ice in an LT5 occurring under the same atmospheric conditions as carb ice in an aircraft engine?

Holy:censored: What an amazing analogy!

Who'd a thunk it?:dancing

Fact is TB icing can occur but under a very set group of atmospheric conditions. Also, a carburetor has a far more pronounced venturi shape than does an LT5 TB so the possibility of TB ice in an LT5 is less than carb ice in an aircraft engine.

That said, again I remind everyone under a specific set of atmospheric conditions and an LT5 after a cold start and during early warm up, TB ice can happen.

I've had my TB coolant bypassed for about 17 years and have never had a problem with TB icing, but I suppose if I operated my LT5 during the winter in a place north of the "freeze line" and in damp weather, I'd reconnect it.

[scottfab]

TB ice in an LT5 occurring under the same atmospheric conditions as carb ice in an aircraft engine?

Holy:censored: What an amazing analogy!

Who'd a thunk it?:dancing

Hey, it is what it is. I did not say it but makes sense to me. Some on the list may think the coolant running through the TB is to keep it cooler than without (which it does in certain circumstances).

Fact is TB icing can occur but under a very set group of atmospheric conditions. Also, a carburetor has a far more pronounced venturi shape than does an LT5 TB so the possibility of TB ice in an LT5 is less than carb ice in an aircraft engine.

Ah, so it can happen you say? And that it's less than in a carb or say maybe a deep freeze refrig? OK, I buy that. I bet there's less on a plane hanging in a museum too.

That said, again I remind everyone under a specific set of atmospheric conditions and an LT5 after a cold start and during early warm up, TB ice can happen.

But I bet less often in southern Cal than say the Northwest?

I've had my TB coolant bypassed for about 17 years and have never had a problem with TB icing, but I suppose if I operated my LT5 during the winter in a place north of the "freeze line" and in damp weather, I'd reconnect it.

I don't doubt that and I won't ask for proof of the statement.
Exactly right though, Yanking the TB coolant is NOT a universally good idea and EVERY TIME I see it suggested on any forum of same I'll remind those being hood winked to to think it through. We each have a right to put bailing wire on our ZR-1 but alternatives should be made clear if there are any even if you are a farmer and have lots of bailing wire.

[scottfab]

My ZR-1 is not an airplane but close :D
I fly airplanes and use carb heat on long approaches to landing when throttle is pulled way back to prevent icing. Under full power no carb heat.
My ZR-1 does full power landings

Why not just disconnect the carb heater? Icing doesn't happen every landing in every weather condition. Oh, maybe it will? And maybe you'd then wish you had left the design alone? oh, ok.

Any one that suggests I should not mess around with modifications (only do bolt ons) on my LT5 are crazy folks and I think mgbrv8 will agree with me here

Well, first off to be clear, I did not write that. It was pasted from email from many years ago from an intelligent individual whom I respect. Any one reading this thread can see that it was pasted by reading the posts.

While I think it narrow minded to say such a thing as what was pasted, I certainly do not think it "crazy" but saying someone is crazy for stating their opinion is certainly mentally suspect.

Maybe Scott should just delete this post Scottfab suggests to keep the plenum from developing ice never bypass the TB (http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=165935) as well as the post above if he cannot nail down the facts rather than tell you to chase the facts down for him ;)


I respect your opinion but while I disagree with your suggestion that I remove my post I will not claim you to be crazy for suggesting it. I maintain that it is a reasonable thing for me to suggest to wit:
Removing coolant going to the TB is NOT for everyone.
Leaving it in place WILL "keep the plenum form developing ice".

Time to go for a drive. Sunny out but cool and humid. Not to worry. I have my TB coolant path in place. :bootyshak:bootyshak:bootyshak:bootyshak

[Dynomite]

I am debating if i should put a newer style condenser or add a fan to my system while I have it open during my a/c compressor rebuild, besides new orings and Orfic tube and accumulator. I live in south tx and we hit well in to the 100s for long periods. I've hear the r134 systems have more fins per inch.

Dave

Whatever you decide I am recharging my A/C with new Accumulator/drier with R12. The A/C ran very cool before and would easily handle your tx temps I am sure A/C Vacuum Pump and Oil (http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19696).
R12 compared to R134a and Recharging R12 (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-3.html#post1581564109)

It is your Engine Coolant System I would be more concerned about with tx temperatures (specifically Stop and Go traffic) ;)

[mgbrv8]

Dose the zr1 have a orfice tube in the a/c system and were? When I have the system open I Am going to replace the accumulator, Change the high pressure and low pressure switches with new ones, Flush the entire system, Rebuild the AC compressor, Straighten the fins on the condenser, And replace all the O-rings And then vacuum it down and check for leaks And then pressurize it with nitrogen and check for leaks. Can anyone think of anything that I'm missing On a complete r12 overhaul and re-installation??

Dave

[Dynomite]

Dose the zr1 have a orfice tube in the a/c system and were? When I have the system open I Am going to replace the accumulator, Change the high pressure and low pressure switches with new ones, Flush the entire system, Rebuild the AC compressor, Straighten the fins on the condenser, And replace all the O-rings And then vacuum it down and check for leaks And then pressurize it with nitrogen and check for leaks. Can anyone think of anything that I'm missing On a complete r12 overhaul and re-installation??

Dave

There is a screen with "O" ring sitting in the vertical tube (high pressure side) of the evaporator.

[VetteVet]

There is a screen with "O" ring sitting in the vertical tube (high pressure side) of the evaporator.

Cliff's got it right. If you break the fitting where the high pressure line(small diameter one) goes into the bottom of the evaporator housing, you will find the orifice tube down inside the line on the evaporator side. You can grab the little plastic tab with a pair of needlenose pliers and wiggle/twist the orifice tube/screen out.

Jep

[mgbrv8]

Cliff's got it right. If you break the fitting where the high pressure line(small diameter one) goes into the bottom of the evaporator housing, you will find the orifice tube down inside the line on the evaporator side. You can grab the little plastic tab with a pair of needlenose pliers and wiggle/twist the orifice tube/screen out.

Jep

Thank you gentalmen I'm going to order a new ofice tube tomorrow and have it ready. In your opinions am I missing anything important not only with the a/c but with any of the other systems under the plenium. I just don't want to neglect anything under there.

Dave

[scottfab]

Thank you gentalmen I'm going to order a new ofice tube tomorrow and have it ready. In your opinions am I missing anything important not only with the a/c but with any of the other systems under the plenium. I just don't want to neglect anything under there.

Dave

A quick check of all fasteners under there wouldn't hurt. I found several loose bolts on the oil vapor housing. I used lock tight on the loose ones.

[mgbrv8]

Okay guys sorry its been a while its been hectic again I got my water pump on and most of the silicon hoses attached now for the ac system. I removed my compressor and broke open all the line as to replace all the orings. The compressor was actually leaking from one of the bolts that holds the whole assembly together that are located under the clutch so that means the copper crush washers were leaking. I flushed all the line with ac flush and remove my schrader valves and capped them to keep any moisture or contaminants out also and I cleaned up my compressor.

:salute:
Dave

[mgbrv8]

Its very important to get your compressor as clean as you can because when you break it open in needs to be as sterile as possible. Its also important to find some tight fitting plugs that fit in the compressor ports as to keep moisture and debree out of the compressor.

[scottfab]

It's also a good idea to date and initial the outside case of the compressor for future reference.

[mgbrv8]

It's also a good idea to date and initial the outside case of the compressor for future reference.


Good point Scott:cheers:

Dave

[mgbrv8]

Oh by the way for those that haven't rebuilt a A/C compressor I found a couple good videos while I was looking up the clutch bearing part numbers that are very helpful for anyone doing it for the first time. A quick note if you don't have good head pressure it is likely that you compressor has lost enough oil over the years that the pistons are worn out but there is still a chance that its just debris on the valve plates causing weak compression.

Video 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CD5lLC5v6PE

Video 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MangGmPZc6g

[Coupe89]

Oh by the way for those that haven't rebuilt a A/C compressor I found a couple good videos while I was looking up the clutch bearing part numbers that are very helpful for anyone doing it for the first time. A quick note if you don't have good head pressure it is likely that you compressor has lost enough oil over the years that the pistons are worn out but there is still a chance that its just debris on the valve plates causing weak compression.

Video 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CD5lLC5v6PE

Video 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MangGmPZc6g

Doesn't look that hard :-D

[mgbrv8]

Doesn't look that hard :-D

I know right, a friend of mine that owns a Porsche 959 was in a bind because his compressor had a special backplate and those compressors are next to impossible to find and the ones you do are big $$$$. After we rebuilt his I have not bought a new or rebuild compressor since. The only thing that I would add to the videos would to not touch the front seal with your hands because the human oils cause pitting in the carbon seal over time. Also if your pistons are worn you can order those too.

Dave

[mgbrv8]

My A/C clutch wasn't in bad shape so I replaced the bearing and lightly sanded the faces, now a point that needs to be made is that most clutches that fail can be easily remedied if attended to immediately there is a lip on the pulleys that catch dust and wear material over time this buildup can reach the clutch disk slowly taking pressure off the mating surfaces until slipping occurs, so by cleaning that area with sand paper you can extend your clutch life.

Dave

:salute:

[mgbrv8]

Well My r12 oil came in today so I was able to crack open the compressor. Now a point I need to make is that all components when I removed I washed in hot water and Dawn soap And then dried thoroughly with a rag and compressed air I washed everything except for the piston and cylinder Assembly. I cleaned all of the Mating surfaces and vave plates And put a light film of r12 oil on everything after cleaning. I then assembled all the components once cleaned and installed the bolts only tightening them finger tight. When the bolts began to bottom out I would move them clockwise counterclockwise to try to force as much oil out of the bottom of the threads as possible To avoid hydro-locking oil in the cavity causing a crack. Once the assembly was together I placed my thumb over the intake port and could feel a strong vacuum that was stronger than it was before disassembly.

David
:salute:

[mgbrv8]

Some more Pics

Dave

:salute:

[Dynomite]

I said this before....this (this thread) is some good technical information with great photo coverage :thumbsup:
Keep up the great work Dave......it is appreciated :handshak:

[mgbrv8]

Thank you Cliff all I want is to help the brotherhood:cheers:

Dave
:saluting:

[mgbrv8]

All assembled and torqued and ready to cool, now all I need to do is flush all the lines put new orings and we are ready to Vacuum the system down. :cheers:

Dave
:salute:

[Corbusa]

DittO :)

[mgbrv8]

When I fill it with nitrogen after i vacuum the system down what pressure should i go to for the nitrogen on a r12 system??

[mgbrv8]

I pulled my condenser today it was dirty in there but not bad. now the fins on the condenser at the bottom are fairly bent I dont know if I can straighten them. If I cant should I go back with a 91 condenser or is there a year model that has a better one?

Dave

[Dynomite]

now the fins on the condenser at the bottom are fairly bent I dont know if I can straighten them.

Dave

I think you can use a radiator comb to fix those fins.

Ebay radiator Comb (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1&_nkw=radiator+comb&_sacat=0&_from=R40)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20Maintenance/9bcbb98f-cc77-4b98-bdfc-c1983b09c542.jpg

[mgbrv8]

Boy I tried but the lower quarter was really dented Im going to have to buy a new one.

Dave

[mgbrv8]

Hey guys i need a part number For the Square cross-section O-rings (The black one ) that goes between The compressor and the AC hose flange. All I can find are round ones The factory ring is 0.120" thick The aftermarket round cross section one is 0.140" thick. Any advice on what I should use. if I cant find it should the round ones be adequate?

Dave

[Dynomite]

Hey guys i need a part number For the Square cross-section O-rings (The black one ) that goes between The compressor and the AC hose flange. All I can find are round ones The factory ring is 0.120" thick The aftermarket round cross section one is 0.140" thick. Any advice on what I should use. if I cant find it should the round ones be adequate?

Dave

Excellent question :thumbsup:

Where do you find the green O rings?
I had the green O-rings on the evaporator connections but maybe the .120" thickness.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/38f47fd6-1653-4a3b-bfbe-df62dbbe6e79.jpg

I dunno if this helps but there are a lot of AC O-ring kits on Ebay under the name Santech Industries.

Ebay Air-Conditioning-Seal-Repair-Kit (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Santech-Industries-MT2541-Air-Conditioning-Seal-Repair-Kit-/350749612231?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1991%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item51aa4e58c7&vxp=mtr)

[mgbrv8]

Excellent question :thumbsup:

I found that square O-ring on my accumulator/drier connection also. Where do you find the green O rings?
I had the green O-rings on the evaporator connections but maybe the .120" thickness.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/38f47fd6-1653-4a3b-bfbe-df62dbbe6e79.jpg

I dunno if this helps but there are a lot of AC O-ring kits on Ebay under the name Santech.

Ebay Air-Conditioning-Seal-Repair-Kit (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Santech-Industries-MT2541-Air-Conditioning-Seal-Repair-Kit-/350749612231?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1991%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item51aa4e58c7&vxp=mtr)


I got the green ones at a local A/C parts supplier. I also Bought that kit from orilliys and none of those work on the compressor to hose flange union point.

Dave

[Dynomite]

I could not figure where my leaks where so am sitting here with the professionals :D
They installed new green o rings on evaporator and on my new drier.
They then pulled 30 inches vacuum and all is perfect.
Except they ran out of R12 here in CA. ;)
So i will add that myself as AC is holding vacuum perfectly.

I had a very peculiar AC leak on the line that goes from compressor to the drier (drier end). That large female threaded nut gauled inside with aluminum and we thought it was tight when in fact it was gauled and would not tighten the O ring on that end. The nut was tight but the AC hose/O ring you could still wiggle and turn. After figuring that out, things went smoothly and we got and held perfect vacuum.

[mgbrv8]

Well I found a great oring for the compressor it fits and compresses beautifully. Its made of BUNA-N rubber and is impervious from all oils and fuels. Also dose the a/c system have 8ozs of of oil in it?

This is the oring
http://www.herculesus.com/product.php?productid=9002

Dave

[Dynomite]

Well I found a great oring for the compressor it fits and compresses beautifully. Its made of BUNA-N rubber and is impervious from all oils and fuels. Also dose the a/c system have 8ozs of of oil in it?

This is the oring
http://www.herculesus.com/product.php?productid=9002

Dave

This may or may not help if no one else has the facts.....I am watching this rebuild intently :handshak:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c4-technical-performance/126409-c-compreesor.html#post1066019

[mgbrv8]

That is a great link Dynomite thanks for sharing. I have a basic question about our cylinder order is like the picture below?

Dave

[Dynomite]

That is a great link Dynomite thanks for sharing. I have a basic question about our cylinder order is like the picture below?

Dave

That is it exactly........Number 1 and number 6 are 360 deg separated.
When number 1 is on compression, number 6 is on exhaust.

Drivers Side from Front to Back.....1357
Passenger Side from Front to Back......2468

[mgbrv8]

Okay Gentlemen I need your help today I started the car for about a minute. I noticed that it has a very subtle miss. Now here are the possibilities The injectors I purchased about a year ago and They have been sitting on a shelf so maybe one might be stuck. Second may be one of the coil packs are bad. Do you guys have any idea what might be Or how to check for the problem.

Secondly Since my a/c system is completely rebuilt. With a rebuilt compressor, new accumulator, And a new condenser. All my lines are flushed. I think I am not going to go with r12 But I also know our 134 is less efficient. A friend of mine recommended freeze 12. Would that be a good substitute for r12 Or is there another option??

Dave

[Marc Haibeck]

If the misfire is light, it’s harder to isolate. An easy way to test fuel injector flow is with a fuel injector pulse tool. It’s outlined in the GM service manual. You don’t have to use the GM tool. The pulse tool should be easy to find in a tool catalog. Rather than remove the plenum you could use jumper wires to connect to the fuel injectors at the ECM A connector.

A 820 microfarad capacitor can be used as a simple substitute for a fuel injector pulser. Discharge the capacitor by connecting the leads together. Disconnect the A connector from the ECM. With the ignition on connect the positive side of the capacitor to a fuel injector and the negative side to ground. The fuel injector circuit will charge the capacitor. The fuel injector will flow while the capacitor is charging. It will flow for about one half second. Discharge the capacitor and go to the next injector. The charge time of the capacitor is very consistent so accurate fuel pressure drops can be recorded for each injector.

I’m assuming that you don’t have access to a scope. If you did you could measure spark plug burn time. A spark viewing tool would let you visually inspect the spark available at each plug. A spark viewing tool can be found for less than $10 at a good auto supply store.

I have found that a ZR-1 AC system is just as efficient with with R134a refrigerant as R12.

Best of luck.

[mgbrv8]

Okay first off It's been a while since I was able to touch my Zr1 project. What happened was I got everything buttoned back up But once I started it I noticed a miss Using my stethoscope i pinpointed which primary injector was stuck Despite tapping I could not get the stuck injector loose. Needless to say I had to pull the Plenum back off again. Once I had the Plenum off I tested all my injectors with a 9 V battery. Only to find that four of the secondaries were stuck. Once they were all free I energized the fuel pump circuit Via The fuel pump pigtail that hangs off the main harness from the ECM. Once the fuel system was energized I then found that I had six secondary And two primary injectors Leaking. So the lesson here is if you ever do a injector Replacement or anything in the valley Make sure to test your injectors before putting the Plenum back on. Now my injectors were rebuilt by a company that a number of people Have used on this forum. Before I go naming names or pointing fingers I want to talk to them on Monday.

Dave

[Paul Workman]

Okay first off It's been a while since I was able to touch my Zr1 project. What happened was I got everything buttoned back up But once I started it I noticed a miss Using my stethoscope i pinpointed which primary injector was stuck Despite tapping I could not get the stuck injector loose. Needless to say I had to pull the Plenum back off again. Once I had the Plenum off I tested all my injectors with a 9 V battery. Only to find that four of the secondaries were stuck. Once they were all free I energized the fuel pump circuit Via The fuel pump pigtail that hangs off the main harness from the ECM. Once the fuel system was energized I then found that I had six secondary And two primary injectors Leaking. So the lesson here is if you ever do a injector Replacement or anything in the valley Make sure to test your injectors before putting the Plenum back on. Now my injectors were rebuilt by a company that a number of people Have used on this forum. Before I go naming names or pointing fingers I want to talk to them on Monday.

Dave

Dave,

If it is who we think it is, their reputation is to make it right. However, you might be interested to know that your situation is not unheard of with "rebuilt" injectors. Even if the bad ones were to be replaced at no charge, you still have experienced what has happened a number of times before (with rebuilt - or NOS injectors too, come to think of it). But, the choice to go cheap and roll the dice (16 times) on "rebuilt" injectors and not come up "snake eyes" is the buyer's choice...and too possibly another set of gaskets to go with the additional plenum pull:( So, I believe the consensus on the forum is to go with their new stainless injectors once and be done with 'em!

This may not amount to anything, but I noticed you used a 9v battery to actuate the injectors. That is the first time I heard of using a 9V battery to test the injectors, so I'd be at a loss to say whether or not that in itself could be an issue if one or more failed to function. (I used a jumper directly off the pos of the 12v battery to test if they functioned properly (switch ON, fuel rails at pressure). Course, it doesn't matter in the case of a leaking injector - leaking is leaking.

Well, it sounds like you're on the road to repair. Let's hear how it turns out.

P.

[Bob Eyres]

Not trying to highjack the thread, but do the companies that offer new injectors offer a test service that will flow match injectors before delivery?

Way back in the day this seemed to be an issue with new injectors, and the prudent course at the time was to have them flow matched so that they would be identical. That would establish a perfect baseline for further tuning.

I haven't heard of this being done recently. Is this service still available? :confused:

[Franke]

The one behind the plenium had a wet oily film in it when you pull the hose. My guess is that there is a rubber diaphragm in there and the oil might cause problems and a false reading.

Dave

Attached Thumbnailshttp://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2270&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1362574830 (http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2270&d=1362574830)


Last edited by mgbrv8; 03-06-2013 at 06:00 AM.

I had a map sensor fail. It caused the car to cut out and die several times until the ECM took over and set a value based on the TPS. I cut the map open to see what gives and found a 10 ohm resistor came off the solder pads. The vaccumn port sensor on the circuit board appears to be a solid state device and is sealed except for a very tiny hole in the middle of a metal disk. Under the disk is a tiny solid state device with several leads and this device has a clear spongy film covering the surface that the metal disk acts upon. The entire circuit board (not the solid state device)was covered with a gelatin Like substance which i believe prevented dirt and moisture contamination. My MAP sensor had a 3/4 volt lower output than the new one i installed before it went intermittent. The entire circuit board measures about 1 inch wide by 2inches long. The rest is all plastic filler material.

[mgbrv8]

Very cool thank you for the info sir.

Dave

[mgbrv8]

Okay I got the new injectors in and he included an new set of plenum gaskets. I first tested the new ones with a 9v battery to just make sure they weren't stuck. I then checked the resistance and marked each one. Tomorrow I will install them and test them and and do the purple starter wire mod.

David

[mgbrv8]

Okay I pulled my Plenum and install the new injectors. I also did the relay mod On the starter And neatly tucked everything in. I then pressure checked my 16 injectors And put voltage to them to Make sure they weren't stuck. And then I found out that one of my brand-new injectors are leaking. ARGH!!!!!:(

This is why I like to do as much as I can myself because I can't trust others to do things right, Even assemble a brand new delpi injector. GRRR!

Dave

[mgbrv8]

Well after many trials and tribulations, parts cross referencing, fabricating, rebuilding and sweat/blood. Shes running and working better then she ever has. I want to thank all of you for you advice and input. This brotherhood is amazing and I'm forever greatful.

Here is a link with all of the pics.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201021415884459.2217036.1439230280&type=1&l=bf12a0aa41

Dave

[scottfab]

Well after many trials and tribulations, parts cross referencing, fabricating, rebuilding and sweat/blood. Shes running and working better then she ever has. I want to thank all of you for you advice and input. This brotherhood is amazing and I'm forever greatful.

Here is a link with all of the pics.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201021415884459.2217036.1439230280&type=1&l=bf12a0aa41

Dave

WOW, great pics with great detail !
One thing I'd do is go through and add text to each shot with as much
detail as you can remember. Later on you'll forget it all.