Delco Bose AUX Input soldered connection...

[Schrade]

removed for copyright license issues

[LancePearson]

Shrade,
I have to kid you a little...that is some seriously crappy soldering! how did you wrap the soldered joints to insulate them?
It is a good place on the face to mount the pin female connector but as you say there is not a lot of room in there to route the cable and to make the face able to fit over the two bottom prongs then rotate back against the head unit main frame to click in and it's easy to damage that stuff...ask me how I know that.

It also based on the way you wired it looks like wiring it into the optical reader (cd player) means you no longer have use of the cd player but it will take the inputs from your Ipod type device instead. Is that correct?

Be nice if you could have wired it in parallel instead of making it a series wiring then whichever input was running, cd or ipod, would have given its input to the cdm and then on out to the speaker amps. Could you not have just addded each of the wires soldered directly to each of the optican scanner appropriate wires and used it that way? Either input used then could provide input to the rest of the system. You would not normally be running both at the same time. The way it's done now it looks like each of the four goes to the pin plug female receptacle and the on to the rest. Why not do it just contacting each original wire and leaving it so that either one could provide the input if I understand what I'm seeing?

2229

Technical stuff over my pay grade, of course.

[LancePearson]

Good for you! Progress. I'm jealous of your backlights working. I should be all back and buttoned up by the weekend with what's enroute to me then I'll open the existing unit up and look at the light bulbs on the hidden side of the face's circuit board that light the display for backlight and decide if it's worth me buying a tiny solder gun or sending it to Dr. Don and let him do it.

I was only teasing about the soldering as I'm sure you know.

Good job.

[Hib Halverson]

Well...no doubt, "Shrade" has a way to get an AUX input to a Bose Gold control head and I admire his persistence, but you're still stuck with that unit's crappy electronics, no balance control and a 20-year old (or more) CD player.

Keep in mind that the Bose part of the "Delco-Bose Gold" is the 50W (25W early models) amp/speaker assemblies at each corner of the car, and the Delco part is the control head and the divorced tuner. The latter-mentioned parts are the substandard pieces.

You eliminate both of those and gain an AUX input, a balance control and modern electronic design by going to the Pioneer unit Zip Products sells in it's late-C4 sound system upgrade kit.

[LancePearson]

Have not missed a balance control at all in such a small space. It works fine for me, Hib

[-=Jeff=-]

with the corrected wiring on J703 does it work?

only thing I personally don't like is the fact it still spins the CD

[Hib Halverson]

Thank you Sir...

Crappy? You got audacity Pal, calling someone's hardware 'Crappy'. I got a few more thoughts on ANYone calling someone ELSE'S hardware 'Crappy', but all concerned know who's nearer to crossing THAT line.

And 20 year-old-hardware? You're not an astute reader. If you were, you'd have noticed the service sticker on my unit in the snappic. 2007. DOM of YOUR hardware??? Yeah - maybe newer. EXCEPT FOR DESIGN.

BTW; do you think anyone else on these boards, has a ZR1 with mods, or OEM hardware, that's 'Crappy'? Please elaborate...



I wasn't talking about YOUR personal hardware, I was talking about the OE Delco radio control and the OE tuner in 90-96 cars. Both were designed in the late 80s and, as such, do not benefit from 25 years of improvement in car audio technology.
Balance control? BALANCE CONTROL???

You show me a balance control knob on car stereo, home stereo, WalkMan, DiscMan, iPad, ANYthing, that does NOT have dust on it, and I will throw the BS flag on it.

Not quite sure I understand your rant on balance controls but, my belief is that the 90-96 sound system needs a balance control. I never cared for the left-right imaging when the system was introduced for 1990 and I still don't care for it now. Never understood why the system has a fader but not balance.

If you're SOMEone on these boards, go rain on someone ELSE'S parade. I got an umbrella.

If you're no-one here, comment removed (http://<i>comment removed</i>)


Uh...roger that.

[WARP TEN]

Not quite sure I understand your rant on balance controls but, my belief is that the 90-96 sound system needs a balance control. I never cared for the left-right imaging when the system was introduced for 1990 and I still don't care for it now. Never understood why the system has a fader but not balance.


I agree completely. Why no balance control? My left leg covers the left speaker which quiets it but I can't shift volume to the left. And it is sometimes hard to tell if all are working. In fact, while the '95 was at Marc's this winter I asked him to check if the front speakers were both working well. Turns out they were fine but while he had his ear to the speaker on the passenger side and his head just about on the floor, he noticed an envelope under the passenger's seat. It contained a $4,000 check made out to the prior owner's company. Long out of date and replaced I found out later, but always fun to find little goodies in your car. Still, I would like to have a balance control-- Bob

[Schrade]

with the corrected wiring on J703 does it work?

only thing I personally don't like is the fact it still spins the CD


Yes; I edited the wiring schematic to show signal intercept between headers J703, and J704.

The schematic SEEMS to indicate that my PREVIOUS intercept, between J704, and J705, are the same signal channels. THEY ARE NOT. And again, the header ID's are NOT identical on our DBose Gold.

I don't like as well the fact that the optical drive must be powered up, with a CD spinning. I have not figured out how to defeat the CD mainboard POWER signal just yet.

I asked the OP on the LS1 boards, about the power defeat, who has done a similiar mod, but I have not heard back from him. I DO believe that any attempt to do so MIGHT allow the FM/AM signal to resume, whereas it is defeated when the CD is powered up ??????

I'm sure SOMEone here has more Elec Engineering experience than I, so if you have an idea on the power defeat, with the schematic, I'm listening here...


And I still respect the knowledge and experience of the [ZipPimp]. I'm sure he knows more about my motor than do I. His OPINIONS about other hardware I still hold questionable however...

[LancePearson]

you have to have a sense of humor about all this. I like my Bose because it is still original and it works for me now that the amp is replaced which was failing. More than adequate sound for the times I listen and function. I don't need a balance control when it's all within 30 inches of my ears, etc. so I'm happy but....

I do have a serious audiophile friend who has his own sound meter, is discerning in ways about amps and speakers I can't even comprehend and here's what he and his serious audiophile buddies say about Bose in general: "If there are no highs and no lows, it must be Bose!" I Pass it along as humor. For me who uses the car with the Targa top in the back mostly, any serious speed means I turn the radio off anyway so it works fine and plays cd's. If I had a wish it would be to add not an ipod port as Shrade has done but a usb link which I know can be done but then I'd have to pull the cdm unit out and send it away. Way, way too much bother for me.

Have a laugh...if there are no highs, if there are no lows, it must be Bose! Actually Delco made the radio head and Bose the cdm and speaker/amps.

[Schrade]

Chuck H / binghamtone ;

eMail sent there - I haven't gone back over the schematic, re.; cancel CD drive power, and still get signal from CD channels when the jack is inserted...

This could be only a physical switch in the optical drive tray, which closes a circuit. A ground (-) perhaps???

One of the terminals in the jack IS a ground - could the CD interrupt switch / ground be integrated INTO the jack's ground (-) ?

If you get yours pulled before I do, and find the switch, get some snappics posted here...

[XfireZ51]

Hib,

Which Pioneer model are you talking about? I have an AVIC D3 and would like to connect my iPhone 4 to it. Read about the Pioneer module but doesn't seem to work well from comments. Any info would be of interest. I know later models of the Pioneer unit offer more sophisticated integration.

[-=Jeff=-]

Check out the App Radio 2 or App Radio 3 (new)

I have the App Radio 2.. it works with iPhone/iPod and Android

[Hog]

Confabulation-

1. the act of confabulating (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/confabulate); conversation; discussion.

2. Psychiatry-the replacement of a gap in a person's memory by a falsification that he or she believes to be true.

I had to look that word up, obviously the first definition works here. It was used by XFireZ51 back in 2009 as well. Good word.

Thanks for sharing the audio work Schrade, that info could be useful to many people.
I hope you find a workaround for the CD mainboard powerup routine.

Thanks again.

peace
Hog

[binghamtone]

Schrade,
I don't have a complete schematic for the inside of the head unit, but I'm now thinking you may need to add a small amount of circuitry to defeat the CD "on" while still selecting the shared audio input from your added jack. I searched the web unsuccessfully for any schematics or even block diagrams of the head unit innards - I am leaning towards getting a spare head unit on one of these forums or eBay to use as an experimental unit.

[xlr8nflorida]

Maybe I'm getting old (40) but my BOSE system sounds fine to me - actually pretty damn good and I have had some high end stereo systems in some of my cars.

Most times when people complain the system is not working properly. If you have a full refurb from Dr. Don, the system sounds damn good.

[FU]

Maybe I'm getting old (40) but my BOSE system sounds fine to me - actually pretty damn good and I have had some high end stereo systems in some of my cars.

Most times when people complain the system is not working properly. If you have a full refurb from Dr. Don, the system sounds damn good.

I am old ! On the 94 the stereo system sound's fine to me , MUCH better than the earlier car's.
I'd Like to get the I-Pod connected if possible. That would help out on the long trip's.

[383z28]

Ok this is what I am looking at I tried connecting to the red and black wires which on your radio were blue and white and now cd player wont power up ?

[383z28]

I unconnected the aux completely and the cd still wont power up at all so now I have a different issue that will have to be addressed before it will work I guess.

[Schrade]

It won't power up, and you re-connected the original connections?

How 'bout the cassette?

[Benijeep]

And as I think further, the power defeat could NOT be as simple as re-routing the existing [switch] ground to the input jack ground, because it then would no longer be a switch, and the CD wouldn't play.

But POSSIBLY routing the CD switch POWER, THROUGH the input jack...

I need hands on. *&)^%@
???[/QUOTE]

OK, but it is grounded or not wire #1, where is it connected on the Radio head?

[Benijeep]

[QUOTE=Schrade;182159]Welcome onto the boards there Benijeep...

Is yours a Z? Or base model?
:flag:

Thanks for the welcome,
This is my first Corvette, it is a Base 40th Ruby Red 1993. Sold my '50 Chevy for it, so were happy, (my son & I)
and thanks for the fast answer,
So just for asking, as in the picture with the switch and the welds, is 1 & 4 conected or is it a shadow of the ground on #1 (post#1)
On Post #3 can't see where the splice / connection is.

sorry for asking it may look simple when I get the radio apart, but as I see this you did a great job on the Post.
again Thanks
Ray

[Benijeep]

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2667&stc=1&d=1378397060

Hey, GRACIAS!
:dancing Now it's idiot proof... LOL.
Can't make a mistake now. Almost as color by numbers.
Thanks again, and for your quick replay.
So tomorrow to the work bench.
:cheers:

[scottfab]

I've not read this thread till now. I read it all.
I have a few comments.

1. The schematic on the mainboard clearly shows a balance control.
(either this schematic is of a different unit or our units may have a pot on the mainboard somewhere)

2. The idea that the old hardware is "crappy" is a fair assessment albeit harsh given it's design age. Hib can be harsh but I'm sure he meant not to be insulting. It's just that things have progressed. So far I find what we have as stock radio/amp etc adequate. I just am not too interested in the radio too much when I drive THIS :o CAR

3. The schematic in previous posts with give alterations has a few problems. the L and R end up getting swapped and the ground (as was mentioned) is missing on pin 1 of the added connector. Any battery powered unit (cell phone etc) will have problems getting a signal to the car. If a charger is plugged into the battery powered unit then ground is provided and would likely work. But this method can be dangerous to the portable unit as well as inject unwanted noise.

In no way meant to insult but just as a possible improvement I have altered that diagram. Here is my take on it. Note in BLUE is the added ground and the L side (purple) is maintained through out as is the R (green) .

If I can get a copy of the full schematic I may be able to come up with a way to safely power down the CD while the AUX is being used.
http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=199&pictureid=2335

[-=Jeff=-]

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2667&stc=1&d=1378397060

Sorry to dig up an older thread, but do any of you have the full schematics for the radio head? mainly the PCB with the Volume/Bass/Treble controls..

if you do shoot me an email with them.. vettxtc@gmail.com

THANKS

[-=Jeff=-]

Schrade,

Yes I want the main board one.. do you have just the bit posted or the whole main board?

I would like the whole main board one if you have it

[Schrade]

Schrade,

Yes I want the main board one.. do you have just the bit posted or the whole main board?

I would like the whole main board one if you have it

I'll check and see if I have the rest of the schematic for the MAINboard - another computer.

Scott - I think I see what your saying about my RE-edited PhotoChop, with the green and red lines drawn.

I actually show a bridge across line 3, and line 4 in the harness interface. I accidentally deleted the schematic's ORIGINAL ground connection on # 4, which is a signal return for one of the channels.

I'll re-edit and re-post, as you have it, when I find if I have the rest of the mainboard schematic for Jeff there...


------------------------------------------
No luck Jeff - only 1 left of the 2 that I got from Bob at carstereohelp.com

he has 2 numbers 800 428 1909 407 830 0777

Both schematics that I got from him are here http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=165068&postcount=32

sorry I can't help more there..........

[scottfab]

....snip...
Scott - I think I see what your saying about my RE-edited PhotoChop, with the green and red lines drawn.

I actually show a bridge across line 3, and line 4 in the harness interface. I accidentally deleted the schematic's ORIGINAL ground connection on # 4, which is a signal return for one of the channels.

I'll re-edit and re-post, as you have it, when I find if I have the rest of the mainboard schematic for Jeff there...


I figured it had to be something like that because what you have in the car obviously works. Great contribution overall. It adds functionality without marring the front bezel. AND if you insert a copy of the modified circuit into the manual all the better for future owners.

Once sufficiently documented a potential kludge moves into a higher status, "documented modification". :blahblah: But of course that's just this engineer's opinion.

[dredgeguy]

I figured it had to be something like that because what you have in the car obviously works. Great contribution overall. It adds functionality without marring the front bezel. AND if you insert a copy of the modified circuit into the manual all the better for future owners.

Once sufficiently documented a potential kludge moves into a higher status, "documented modification". :blahblah: But of course that's just this engineer's opinion.

I wish I had the skills of all of you but that is not the case so I have to pay the pros. I had Dr. Don add the AUX input on my Bose and have it located in the center console. I did not want to put it on the radio face to keep it looking stock. Sounds good.

[-=Jeff=-]

Schrade,

any luck finding those schematics you had?

guy told told me to contact said he had nothing for me

[Schrade]

I did not Jeff; only 2 items I have are posted here, and as Scott pointed out, one was only for a Bose later model that has balance control...

Are you working on a power defeat for the CD, with AUX plugged in? Post up if you accomplish it...


No luck Jeff - only 1 left of the 2 that I got from Bob at carstereohelp.com

he has 2 numbers 800 428 1909 407 830 0777

Both schematics that I got from him are here http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.ph...8&postcount=32 (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=165068&postcount=32)

sorry I can't help more there..........

[scottfab]

According to what I see pin 1 is shorted to pin 4 ?
Pin 4 is "Right channel In" and pin 1 is "Ground".
I'm a bit confused.




...snip...

3.5MM jack soldered to shielded cable:
excess on terminal #1 snipped; no 2-4 bridge!!!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VNINMb_B4ac/USvXCUnO8kI/AAAAAAAABAk/LL5RBVdzg9U/s1280/IMG_5118c.JPG

jack pinout ID:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-URTGpqBFOFw/USbUrSaTkyI/AAAAAAAAA8o/gR4U-Qdd_bc/s1280/trigger_dev.jpg

[Schrade]

I should have said "no 1 - 4 bridge".

3.5MM jack soldered to shielded cable:
excess on terminal #1 snipped; no 2-4 bridge!!!.

[scottfab]

I should have said "no 1 - 4 bridge".

OH ok.... then it looks like this then with a ground going to pin 1 only.
And the ground is the audio ground and not the car ground.

http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=199&pictureid=2487