Does FSM show ...

[Schrade]

... amp draw for each circuit?

I jumped the gun on the H/L controller module (thanks Dave H) - looks like the rap goes elsewhere.

Anyone know what section? :o

[gbrtng]

Nope - no current draw info in the FSM. Just follow the schematics and with some luck and a clip-on DC ammeter you should be able to find the problem. FYI, most fused circuits have fuses that are at least twice the ambient current draw.

[WVZR-1]

Nope - no current draw info in the FSM. Just follow the schematics and with some luck and a clip-on DC ammeter you should be able to find the problem. FYI, most fused circuits have fuses that are at least twice the ambient current draw.

FSM 6D1-4 displays expected and approximate values for some typical draws for systems that are generally accessing some power from the electrical system at rest. It should help!


Chuck,
you mentioned you removed "all fuses" - you actually need to remove each fuse one at a time until you find one that dramatically changes the display to a lower value on the DVM. One at a time and then 1 at a time for the relays etc!

[Schrade]

FSM 6D1-4 displays expected and approximate values for some typical draws for systems that are generally accessing some power from the electrical system at rest. It should help!


Chuck,
you mentioned you removed "all fuses" - you actually need to remove each fuse one at a time until you find one that dramatically changes the display to a lower value on the DVM. One at a time and then 1 at a time for the relays etc!

Copy on that Sir...

Alas - you were right - again.

I'm pretty sure it's the limiter switch not making contact in the right H/L motor. Funny; I had broken Del-rins in a '94, and it didn't cause the same problem :confused:

Nothing like a short lesson in order of operations :rolleyes:

[gbrtng]

If by limiter switch you mean the headlight module ... it's supposed to electronically turn off current to the two motors when they stall out = hit the open and close limits. If one or both motors continue to run because the delrin pins have turned to dust, the module times out in about 5 seconds and turns off current to the motors. Help us by describing how the headlights work.

[VetteVet]

Agree with gbrtng. The motors don't have limit/cutout switches. The module monitors motor current and will cut power when it sees the current spike due to the motor stalling or when the timeout period is reached. If you're experiencing a continuous, non-negligible current draw on the headlight circuit, the module is bad. The module will briefly energize the headlight motors in the shut direction when the module powers up . That is normal operation.

[scottfab]

...snip...
The module will briefly energize the headlight motors in the shut direction when the module powers up . That is normal operation.

This includes when you first connect the battery and each and every time you connect the battery.

[Schrade]

If by limiter switch you mean the headlight module ... it's supposed to electronically turn off current to the two motors when they stall out = hit the open and close limits. If one or both motors continue to run because the delrin pins have turned to dust, the module times out in about 5 seconds and turns off current to the motors. Help us by describing how the headlights work.

Right headlight occasionally did the half turn - that I attribute to the cracked nylon gear.

If it is supposed to turn off current in a failure, it did on my '94, with delrins wasted. But something was killing the battery on this one, and it appears after extensive testing, that the cracked gear was the culprit; i. e., the current was NOT being turned off...

The cracked gear is re-installed for now, til the new one arrives. It is re-installed 180', which, depending on the range of the gear, takes the crack OUT of the range of rotation.

I had a '98 Jimmy, with a cracked gear in the temp controller module, and the range of rotation was LESS than 180', and re-installing that gear 180' had fixed that problem (for the last 3 years anyway).