Cost of Parts

[Jamesbea]

I own a 1990 ZR1 that I have had for several years. The car hasn't been driven on a regular basis for a number of years (does get started and driven around the block once every couple of months). I have been reading up on the board and have the itch to get the car back up and running on a regular basis again. From what I have read here I will need to replace the injectors and a few other items that need regular replacement on these. Other than the obvious fluid changes does anyone have any approximations as to what the parts cost will be on these items?

Thanks.

[efnfast]

The factory injectors are not ethanol tolerant. Nor are the replacement GM's. When I'm ready to bite the bullet, good word has it to see John at the Fuel Injector Connection for a set of new (as apposed to rebuilt) S.S. injectors. 'Bout 7 hundy. -Steve

[ghlkal]

I replaced all 16 injectors with SS ones from FIC. IIRC the cost was ~ $750. While I had the plenum off, I replaced all 4 coils too (cost ~ $140). Stock plugs were 2 bucks each I think. Plug wires tested good so I didn't replace those.

[zr1mom]

Biggest issue I would worry about is the age and condition of the gas. You might want to remove all gas and fill with a fresh fill. Also watch for mice they can cause a lot of damage under the hood.

[Jamesbea]

Injectors and coils is it then (other than fuel)? Anything to be concerned with the butterflies in the runners or the vacuum system?

[PhillipsLT5]

I am with zr1mom, drain the tank

[cvette98pacecar]

Get in the habit of draining your tank every 4 months and refill with fresh fuel, recycle your fuel into a daily driver.

[zr1mom]

Injectors and coils is it then (other than fuel)? Anything to be concerned with the butterflies in the runners or the vacuum system?

The butterflies can gum up and stick so check and clean if you need to. Vacuum hoses can dry out and become brittle so make sure you have no vacuum leaks. Listen to the vacuum pump under the right headlight it shouldn't keep cycling on and off all the time maybe every minute.

[Jamesbea]

Any test you can perform to know if the butterflies are sticking?

[Paul Workman]

I bought the Accel 150821 injectors from Summit Racing. (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-150821)

The price on the Summit site is @ $295/8 + shipping, and you'll need a plenum gasket from Jerry's gaskets, and he provides an O-ring set too.

Note: The Accel 150821s have a plastic key tab that has to be filed off in order for the secondary connector to snap on. No biggie, but you might want to know that, should you go that route!

I don't know if the $750 for FIC includes the gaskets as part of a "kit", but if it does, the costs are about the same. However, Jon at FIC is a supporter of the Registry, and for the same or nearly the same $$ between Summit or FIC, then personally I'd give Jon the knod for being a supporter.

As for test procedure to observe the secondaries, there is a procedure on Marc Haibeck's site; Haibeck Automotive (http://http://www.zr1specialist.com/)Inc.(?). Lots of other great info too!

P.

[scottfab]

Based on what I've read it's not certain that the injectors haven't been already replaced before you got the car? If they have then why replace? If they are not the original ones then running some new fuel and Chevron Techron Inj cleaner may be all you need.

Then run the car with the power key off until you're satisfied with that operation before diving into the secondaries. Lots of WOT with key off.

As you've stated I too would pay attention to all fluids (replace) before I'd jump to the secondaries but that's just me.

Next move to secondary operation. If all is well the WOT twice a day to keep the pipes clean. :)

[Jamesbea]

Based on what I've read it's not certain that the injectors haven't been already replaced before you got the car? If they have then why replace? If they are not the original ones then running some new fuel and Chevron Techron Inj cleaner may be all you need.

Then run the car with the power key off until you're satisfied with that operation before diving into the secondaries. Lots of WOT with key off.

As you've stated I too would pay attention to all fluids (replace) before I'd jump to the secondaries but that's just me.

Next move to secondary operation. If all is well the WOT twice a day to keep the pipes clean. :)

I have owned the car since 1997 so I am pretty sure they are stock. Have owned other toys that I have played with more (modified 3rd gen Rx-7 and currently a viper), but looking to dust off the car and play with her once again.

Appreciate all the help so far, especially Marc's site. That will be a ton of help.

[WARP TEN]

I have owned the car since 1997 so I am pretty sure they are stock. Have owned other toys that I have played with more (modified 3rd gen Rx-7 and currently a viper), but looking to dust off the car and play with her once again.

Appreciate all the help so far, especially Marc's site. That will be a ton of help.

Doing the maintenence Marc suggests is a good idea if there are things you have not done. When I got my '95 last summer the first thing I did was schedule it to go to Marc's (his shop is not far from me) for the full list of suggested maintenance items plus replacement of some dried out weather stripping. After all it is an 18 year old car that had only been driven 20k miles. Lots of things were original (sparkplugs for example). Of course I also added 4:10 gears, Corsa and Hurst just for fun :-). -- Bob

[scottfab]

I have owned the car since 1997 so I am pretty sure they are stock. Have owned other toys that I have played with more (modified 3rd gen Rx-7 and currently a viper), but looking to dust off the car and play with her once again.

Appreciate all the help so far, especially Marc's site. That will be a ton of help.

wow we've owned our cars the same amount of time then. Thanks for making clear you still have the OEM injectors. Absolutely then. Replace them.

I did some detailed investigations on OEM injs in 98 including building my own cleaning station and documenting the spray patterns on each of the 16 with pictures. While I do not agree with the general wisdom of resistance measure as way to determine suitability for use I do strongly subscribe to the notion that the OEMs rust and start sticking again even after full cleaning (been there done that).
There's nothing like stainless steel for injectors and there's inherent advantages to a rotory design over pintel design for hardening against gumming.

As for resistance as a measure of "fit for use" I submit it's an indirect measurement and by no means conclusive about shorted windings and/or the progression of shorted windings. I mean it can indicate this but then again nominal resistance of an injector from one vendor to the next throw out any absolutes about an injector measuring less than 12ohms as bad.
It's like saying an audio speaker that is suppose to me an 8ohm speaker is no good if it measures 7ohms. And that if it's 7ohms it will continue to short till it's 6 then 5 then .... 0 ohms under normal use.
Certainly if the internal resistance is significantly off form nominal yes there is a problem but a 10-15 % variance? I don't think so. As long as the flow rate is met that is the important thing and is the primary measurement and as such is a direct measurement. Ok so I got off an a tangent.

[zr1mom]

Any test you can perform to know if the butterflies are sticking?

Not really I would just take a flashlight and open them up and look at the back of them that's usually where they gummy.

[ghlkal]

I don't know if the $750 for FIC includes the gaskets as part of a "kit", but if it does, the costs are about the same.

The kit I received from FIC included gaskets and O-rings from Jerry.

[vilant]

I spent $1011 on my fuel injector change. Injectors from FIC, wires and gaskets from Jerry, coil packs from White Racing, and plugs from Advanced Auto.:cheers: