Front shock change

[vilant]

Finished the rest of making my car 100% by replacing my front shocks. And I did it the right way, which means it got done quickly, lol. Just jacked up one side of the car at a time. After was tire is removed I placed a second jack under the control arm to support it. Just don't put it under the grease fitting, and make sure you have access to the nuts underneath, they need to come out.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=203&pictureid=1929
Removed the actuator retaining clip, and gently pulled, up to remove the shock actuator and put it aside.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=203&pictureid=1926
Removed the 17mm mounting nut, cup assembly, upper insulator retainer, and upper insulator. Then removed the 2 lower mounting nuts and bolts, they're 13mm. It says to compress the shock to get it out, but there was no compressing mine, it was shot. Took off the lower insulator off the and removed the metal bushing that was stuck inside it (the new shocks come w/ a new one). Worked backwards w/ the steps and tightened all bolts to 19 ft/lbs per FSM. Actually had to jack the control arm alot more to actually compress the new shock (that's how bad the old ones were). Make sure the adjustment screw is 5mm above the cup (I didn't really measure this, looked the same distance as the old). And you need to gently work the shock actuator back onto the cup assembly. The gear inside the actuator is plastic and breaks easily. Here's the old and new side by side,
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=203&pictureid=1930
and here's the new shock in place.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=203&pictureid=1931
What a huge difference in the ride, I couldn't believe the difference the new front shocks had (I replaced the rears a few months earlier). And the Selective Ride Control light is finally out:dancing. My car finally has no indicator lights lit, other than Full Engine Power, lol. Took it out for spin and it was awesome. I love my car.
P.S. Bilstein also recommends retightening bolts after 50km.

[ghlkal]

Nice work, thanks for the images.

Dang, your suspension looks clean enough to eat off of!


What was your source and price for the Bilsteins?

[vilant]

Nice work, thanks for the images.

Dang, your suspension looks clean enough to eat off of!


What was your source and price for the Bilsteins?
Thanks fellas. Lol, I cleaned everything I could get my hands on when I had the car up on jacks a few months when my injectors went. I bought them from the shock warehouse online. Each set, rear and front, was a little over $400/set. You can save a few bucks if you buy all 4 at once, but I didn't have the funds to do that originally. Shipping is free also.

[scottfab]

You want to be EXTREMELY careful putting the actuator back on.
Make sure the gear teeth fully engage.
This is a source of many ground up teeth on the female gear in the actuator.

Another solution for actuator problems is to just rip out the FX3 system when it fails but I like to keep things working keep to the FSM as best I can. Ripping things out is not the first thing that comes to mind when it's time to fix something on the car.

[jimmy b.]

Thanks for the write up Joe, as I will be changing my front shocks in a couple of months. I did the rears last spring because of leaks. I bought them from e shocks.com, good prices, good service, and came when they said they would. I will buy the fronts from them too.

again good write up.

[vilant]

Thanks,my pleasure. I try to be helpful, even if it is minimal at best.:cheers:

[Dynomite]

Thanks for the write up Vilant :thumbsup:

I have an acuator that went South (electrical malfunction in actuator) and it appears that a "good" actuator rotates both ways when you turn the key on searching or self aligning?? Then settles in position. What is it doing exactly? ;)

When you place the actuator back on top of the shock, how do you set the gear on top of the shock?

That gear rotates maybe 160 degs total and can be rotated with your fingers.

So which way should that gear be facing when you set the actuator on top?
Should the control on the console be set to one position or other?

[vilant]

Thanks for the write up Vilant :thumbsup:

I have an acuator that went South (electrical malfunction in actuator) and it appears that a "good" actuator rotates both ways when you turn the key on searching or self aligning?? Then settles in position. What is it doing exactly? ;)

When you place the actuator back on top of the shock, how do you set the gear on top of the shock?

That gear rotates maybe 160 degs total and can be rotated with your fingers.

So which way should that gear be facing when you set the actuator on top?
Should the control on the console be set to one position or other?

When the SRC light was on, and I knew there was a problem with the right front shock, someone told me to first pull the actuator off and check to see if any of the plastic teeth inside the actuator were broken, then second, turn the ignition to "ON" and see if the gear spins (which I had to run around the car to get to the other side, lol). If no broken teeth and gear spun the actuator was OK and the shock was the problem. I'd be lying if I said I knew exactly what it's doing, but my educated guess is it will spin the gear all the way in one direction, then return to whatever the selected setting is. I spun the gear on my shock too. Don't think it matters where it is, but if your unsure, spin it to the middle position and let the actuator do the rest. I don't think it matters what setting it's on either. At least I never took mine off of ""Tour".:cheers:

[Dynomite]

When the SRC light was on, and I knew there was a problem with the right front shock, someone told me to first pull the actuator off and check to see if any of the plastic teeth inside the actuator were broken, then second, turn the ignition to "ON" and see if the gear spins (which I had to run around the car to get to the other side, lol). If no broken teeth and gear spun the actuator was OK and the shock was the problem. I'd be lying if I said I knew exactly what it's doing, but my educated guess is it will spin the gear all the way in one direction, then return to whatever the selected setting is. I spun the gear on my shock too. Don't think it matters where it is, but if your unsure, spin it to the middle position and let the actuator do the rest. I don't think it matters what setting it's on either. At least I never took mine off of ""Tour".:cheers:

When you say spins you mean spins about 80 degs back and forth? that is what my actuator does when I turn the key on and then it stops spinning. So it spins back and forth only a couple times then stops like it found itself :drunken_s

After I determined that the passenger side actuator was not functional I switched drivers side actuator to passenger side. I could not get around the Z fast enough to the passenger side once I turned the key on to observe the actuator movement since it appeared to stop turning before I got there ;)

Priss turned the key on and I observed the passenger side after I switched actuators from drivers side to passenger side. The actuator that was working seemed to rotate one way and then the other before stopping just like you suggest. Priss tried different settings including "Tour" and I think the same on all settings it appears but I am not sure what exactly I seen in terms of the rotation stopping points except one actuator was working and the other was not on the same circuit :D

Yes....I think when I took the drivers side actuator off the gear appeared to be centered and could be rotated about 80 deg both clockwise and counterclockwise. There must be valve ports in the shock that the gearing lines up depending on your console selection on "ride".

Thanks for the feedback. I have an actuator coming from Ebay and I will take some photos for this post in your thread when I put it back together :p

[Franke]

Vilant, I have a service bulletin on the front suspension nut torque specs that indicate a change from 19 ft lbs to 31 ft lbs for the upper front shock retaining nut. Bulletin number 90-297-3C. Corp bulletin number 013301 July of 1990.

[vilant]

Vilant, I have a service bulletin on the front suspension nut torque specs that indicate a change from 19 ft lbs to 31 ft lbs for the upper front shock retaining nut. Bulletin number 90-297-3C. Corp bulletin number 013301 July of 1990.

Thanks for info, I'll make sure they're still tight when I work on the car again, which will be soon.:cheers:

[Dynomite]

When the SRC light was on, and I knew there was a problem with the right front shock, someone told me to first pull the actuator off and check to see if any of the plastic teeth inside the actuator were broken, then second, turn the ignition to "ON" and see if the gear spins (which I had to run around the car to get to the other side, lol). If no broken teeth and gear spun the actuator was OK and the shock was the problem. I'd be lying if I said I knew exactly what it's doing, but my educated guess is it will spin the gear all the way in one direction, then return to whatever the selected setting is. I spun the gear on my shock too. Don't think it matters where it is, but if your unsure, spin it to the middle position and let the actuator do the rest. I don't think it matters what setting it's on either. At least I never took mine off of ""Tour".:cheers:

Got a new front actuator on Ebay and installed it with shock gear centered. Appears the positon of shock gear makes no difference because the actuator does a self alignment on startup. Got rid of Service Ride Control warning ......it went away immediately and never returned :D

[DennisC]

Nice Job nothing like the feeling of accomplishment and saying I did this, no doubt you saved money by doing it yourself. I'm restoring Carpet in my 93 LT-1, practicing so I can do My ZR-1 is next, a lot of fun a hobby doing a couple hours a day.

[vilant]

Wanted to post an update. After pulling my hair out trying to figure why my SRC light was on. Figured it out. The code kept coming up right front shock, but I could see nothing wrong with shock, so I thought it was the actuator. Bought a new one, and still have the code. Finally I noticed the gear on top of the shock was stripped, would just spin round and round. I was able to replace the gear with one from the original shocks that are going out to re-build (actually just sent them out this week). I asked Bilstein to if they could sell me a few extra gears just in case. He asked why, I explained, and apparently it is important the gear on the shock be in the "open" position when putting your actuator on. Here's his response to our talking "Basically on your application the actuator rotates 160º as well as the adjuster on the damper. Shocks are always shipped with the adjuster rotated clock wise to the open position. It’s my understanding that the control module is regulated by the MPH and at slower speeds the actuator sets the damper to the open position. If the damper was not at the open position or if the actuator did not reset to the open position when the shock was installed then the actuator would have over rotated the gear.
This is for a 1990 not sure about the later years, but I think it still applies. So, make sure it is clockwise or you'll strip out your gear like me.:cheers:

[365gtb4]

Joe, how many miles on your car? I have 23k on mine and the shocks seem to be working fine.

[mike100]

What is the deal with the fat stud on the top of the new shock- a bushing they ship it with?

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=203&pictureid=1930

[Schrade]

Good job photo-doc'ing the work!

Keep the pics coming for study there...

[vilant]

Joe, how many miles on your car? I have 23k on mine and the shocks seem to be working fine.

34K. Brand new replacement shocks are a year old, accidentally spun the gear and didn't know which way it was. Didn't think it mattered, but apparently it does.

[vilant]

What is the deal with the fat stud on the top of the new shock- a bushing they ship it with?
If I remember correctly its a new sleeve for where the shock passes through the upper rubber bushing.

[vilant]

Good job photo-doc'ing the work!

Keep the pics coming for study there...

Thanks. Here's a pic just for you;) The stripped gear is on the right. See how the metal tab that stops the gear from spinning all the way around is shaved down.

[Dynomite]

FX3 Selective Rid Control TIPS (http://corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/c4/fx3/index.html#.UP3j1x1EGSo)
FX3 Actuator Rebuild TIPS (http://www.captainzcnc.com/)

In regard to applications of FX3 Shocks 90-91 and 92-later.......
You can't just change out the gear on top as entire rod needs to be changed due to the valving holes. You can use 92 FX3s in 90-91 Application if you upgrade to the newer controller.

See this from Captain Z (http://www.captainzcnc.com/id2.html)
Please take a moment to inspect the small metal gear located on the top of the shock. Often they are broken and must be replaced before the fx3 system will be restored to working order. We have original equipment gears in stock for 1989 to 1991. We have replacement gears for 1992 and later models in stock also. These gears are made of steel finished in yellow zinc dichromate. There are two different gears used on the shocks in the fx3 system. The difference is in the size of the stop located along the lower edge of the gear. The year of your Corvette determines the type of gear used. See photo below.
Visually inspect the gear for breaks and for cracks. Also the gear should not be able to turn in complete circles without stopping. If you can turn it continuously without hitting the stop then it is broken and must be replaced. The gear can be replaced in either position without affecting the operation of the shock.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/600x300-1/80-bilstien_shocks_8b7971b493dc35ea52a8d2dad762225c32 9990b9.jpg

From this it appears to me the setup of the FX-3 is self aligning in all regards...........just want to make sure.

Got a new front actuator on Ebay and installed it with shock gear centered. Appears the positon of shock gear makes no difference because the actuator does a self alignment on startup. Got rid of Service Ride Control warning ......it went away immediately and never returned

See this from Captain Z (http://www.captainzcnc.com/id2.html)
When the ignition key is turned, the system will do a check to be sure it is working properly. The service ride control light should come on momentarily and then go out if all is well. If the light stays on then the system most likely has problems.

The two following observations suggests FX3 Bilstein self alignment IS what I think it is........

I've had my front actuator motors off every time I clean the front suspension, blow the grit out of the cups and put a drop of gun oil on the shock gear even turn the gear and never paid attention to the position when I put them back on with 0 issues.

I changed out my front shocks recently and all I had to do was carefully reinstalled the actuator by rotating it back and forth as it went down on shock the to make sure the actuator and valve gear teeth properly engaged. When fully inserted the splines on the outside of the actuator cap will lock into the metal cup on top of the shock and the retainer clip will insert easily then. As mentioned above when you turn the ignition key on the actuator cycles in both directions sensing the location of the valve hard stops by the resulting increase in current draw when the stops are reached. Then you’re ready to go. If for some reason the control system cannot find either of the valve hard stops (in case of broken gear) or senses the calibration time is taking too long it will trip the “Check Ride Control light”.

[vilant]

FX3 Selective Rid Control TIPS (http://corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/c4/fx3/index.html#.UP3j1x1EGSo)
FX3 Actuator Rebuild TIPS (http://www.captainzcnc.com/)

See Diagnosis (http://www.captainzcnc.com/id2.html)
Please take a moment to inspect the small metal gear located on the top of the shock. Often they are broken and must be replaced before the fx3 system will be restored to working order. We have original equipment gears in stock for 1989 to 1991. We have replacement gears for 1992 and later models in stock also. These gears are made of steel finished in yellow zinc dichromate. There are two different gears used on the shocks in the fx3 system. The difference is in the size of the stop located along the lower edge of the gear. The year of your Corvette determines the type of gear used. See photo below.
Visually inspect the gear for breaks and for cracks. Also the gear should not be able to turn in complete circles without stopping. If you can turn it continuously without hitting the stop then it is broken and must be replaced. The gear can be replaced in either position without affecting the operation of the shock.

http://www.captainzcnc.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/shockgearsrevised.jpg

From this it appears to me the setup of the FX-3 is self aligning in all regards...........just want to make sure ????



This suggests self alignment is not what I think it is????
Maybe it is self aligning, and my controller is broken (but I don't think it is). All I know is, the gear on a brand new shock stripped out (only a few hundred miles on them), and I put the gear in the middle position because I didn't know which way it should go. I've been talking to the guy at Bilstein (cause I finally sent my original shocks in for rebuild) who's the manager of the re-build department. He made sound that the gear has to be in the open position or actuator will over turn the gear and damage it. Now that I think about it, when I first thought the actuator was bad, I noticed the gear only spun in one direction when I looked at it after turning the ignition on. Because it didn't spin back, I thought the actuator was bad. Bought a new actuator and it did the same thing. That's when I noticed the gear was stripped. Maybe only MY 1990 is not self aligning and later years are.
Either way it can't hurt to set the gear in the open position before you put the actuator on, if it is self aligning.

[Dynomite]

Maybe it is self aligning, and my controller is broken (but I don't think it is). All I know is, the gear on a brand new shock stripped out (only a few hundred miles on them), and I put the gear in the middle position because I didn't know which way it should go. I've been talking to the guy at Bilstein (cause I finally sent my original shocks in for rebuild) who's the manager of the re-build department. He made sound that the gear has to be in the open position or actuator will over turn the gear and damage it. Now that I think about it, when I first thought the actuator was bad, I noticed the gear only spun in one direction when I looked at it after turning the ignition on. Because it didn't spin back, I thought the actuator was bad. Bought a new actuator and it did the same thing. That's when I noticed the gear was stripped. Maybe only MY 1990 is not self aligning and later years are.
Either way it can't hurt to set the gear in the open position before you put the actuator on, if it is self aligning.

See this from Captain Z (http://www.captainzcnc.com/id2.html)
When the ignition key is turned, the system will do a check to be sure it is working properly. The service ride control light should come on momentarily and then go out if all is well. If the light stays on then the system most likely has problems.

I am sooooo confused :confused:......do I go back and check my shocks on the 90' and 91' or not ;)

I concur with you :thumbsup:............and for now I will check to make sure this is the case on my FX3 set ups.....Either way it can't hurt to set the gear in the open position before you put the actuator on, if it is self aligning.

[WVZR-1]

This from See Diagnosis


You might maybe mention "this from Captain Z" rather than just a "diagnosis" link that I guess could be interpreted initially as "yours" until it's actually applied. Aaron I would think should maybe be considered "the first call" for nearly all FX3 questions.

On HIS/Captain Z "diagnosis" page there's also a reference back to the Registry that I guess since the "redesign" of the web page is no longer functional. If there's a correction to the link it might be of interest to Aaron so that he could correct it. If it's a link that is now "password" protected and member only accessible that might be mentioned to him also.

[Dynomite]

You might maybe mention "this from Captain Z" rather than just a "diagnosis" link that I guess could be interpreted initially as "yours" until it's actually applied. Aaron I would think should maybe be considered "the first call" for nearly all FX3 questions.

What/where is the answer to my confusion :confused:

Do I have to set the gear in the open position before I put the actuator on.......or is the actuator self aligning??

[We Gone]

I've had my front actuator motors off every time I clean the front suspension, blow the grit out of the cups and put a drop of gun oil on the shock gear even turn the gear and never paid attention to the position when I put them back on with 0 issues.

[Jagdpanzer]

I changed out my front shocks recently and all I had to do was carefully reinstalled the actuator by rotating it back and forth as it went down on shock the to make sure the actuator and valve gear teeth properly engaged. When fully inserted the splines on the outside of the actuator cap will lock into the metal cup on top of the shock and the retainer clip will insert easily then. As mentioned above when you turn the ignition key on the actuator cycles in both directions in order for the control system to since the location of the valve hard stops by the resulting increase in current draw when the stops are reached. Then you’re ready to go. If for some reason the control system cannot find either of the valve hard stops (in case of broken gear) or senses the calibration time is taking too long it will trip the “Check Ride Control light”. In my case the valve rotation force at first was a little excessive on the new shocks which prevented "Check Ride Control" light from clearing. I corrected this by removing the actuator and rotating the valve back and forth by my hand until it loosened up.

[c4koh]

All - thanks for this thread, very useful.

I have an intermittent Service Ride Control light, which I flashed and it pointed me to the front-right actuator - opened it up, and the small shock gear teeth (one on top of the shock) was chewed up. I have a replacement being delivered.

How does that small metal shock gear get removed? does it just slip in, is there a pin? It can't be threaded as it's rotating.

I'm not at home at the moment and not near my FSM, not sure if it will have the procedure, but presume it just - carefully - pries off and clips on????

Thanks, Steve